There’s a new addition on Stevenson Square and it’s causing a bit of a stir with those in the know.
Called the Fry By, it’s inspired by Amsterdam’s many chip (or frite) shops and has even created its own version of Fritessaus or frietsaus, the classic mayo-style condiment that no self-respecting Dutchman will do without.
That’s not the only topping option, though, far from it. These super crispy fries can come as loaded or as simple as you like, with a total of roughly 54 different flavour combinations on offer with six homemade salts and nine sauces to choose from – plus extra toppings.
And as well as the fry cones, there’s a handful of VHS-style boxes drawing inspiration from cult movies like Richie Rich and Goodfellas.
Staff wear bright yellow branded jackets and there’s a general air of cool around the place as friends saunter up to order cones piled-high with all sorts from fennel butter and lemon pepper mayo, to brown crab and onion and garlic salt.
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As we tuck into a cone of triple-cooked, perfectly crispy fries topped with their signature house Ando (lemon red pepper mayo) and pickled pink onion slices, founder Marwan Mounti tells us he came up with the idea last year whilst sat having a drink in Stevenson Square.
Realising Manchester was falling short on a late-night stop off for drunken scran since the disappearance of Slice, he hit on the idea to something inspired by the Netherlands fry obsession – given that he knows Amsterdam pretty well.
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“Slice used to slap, [but] there’s nowhere here that’s just like a quick bite rather than a sit down – because you can go Bab, you can go Ply, you can go Flok now, they’ve got food, but there’s nowhere where you can just be like yo, chips.”
His day job has him well embedded in the city’s food scene: running social media foodie accounts and creating content for the likes of Jerk Shack, Wholesome Junkies and Go Falafel. So if anyone knows what’s going on, it’s him.
We touch briefly on Oldham street’s chippy-turned-Turkish takeaway, which once did a decent-ish late night cone of chips but now slings everything from pizzas to paninis to kebabs, and decide it’s just not got the pull it once had.
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Tastes round here have definitely elevated in the past decade, even when you’re smashed, we agree.
“I feel like people are starting to give a f*** about what they’re eating,” says Marwan.
“Even when we’re pissed, my missus is just like ‘no I’m not eating that,'” he jokes, miming false shock at her refusal to enjoy a Tandoori chicken with him at two in the morning.
“I think we all have [got more fussy], we’re all like yo is that truffle oil? How do you make it? Is it fresh?” he quips, correctly (in our opinion).
“But that’s like where it came from,” he continues, telling us they wanted to make their own chips.
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“Everything’s [done[ on the day fresh, the potatoes were cut today, steamed, then blanched, then fried, all the sauces are made fresh on the day, all the meats are marinaded and like cooked off on the day, […] that’s why we’re [not opening until five because most of the prep is done in the morning and the afternoon.”
He reveals he’s become a bit of a potato obsessive, as part of his search for the perfect fry. We ask who their supplier is, and Marwan tells us McCalls – the vegetable stall next door to Jerk Shack just off High street.
“I’ve been working with them for years helping them with their Jerk Shack account, so I was just like ‘my turn now, sort me out’ he laughs.
We hear they’ve been through a few potatoes before finding the right one, ultimately settling on red Desiree.
“The potato really matters.,” he confides, “we had to compromise between crispiness and taste [in the end].
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“Sajitas are like super crispy but then they’d taste a bit frozen, you know the vibe, but these are like crispy, but not like 10-10 where you’re like ‘crisps’, but these are really tasty. Like nice and sweet, we brine them for a little bit so its like a bit of sour.”
As he says this, a loud crunch comes from the table behind us which perfectly makes his point.
“They sounded super crispy.!” he says enthusiastically, turning around to find the cruncher responsible. “Sorry, I’ve become obsessed. I’m not even joking.”
It’s early days here still, but we think Marwan’s on to a winner. He certainly knows his potatoes and he’s not wrong about the need for a high quality late night takeaway round that part of town (and every part of town) .
As the saying goes, if you will build it they will come. And come they have.
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Since opening just a couple of weeks ago, The Fry By has been pulling in big crowds with queues sometimes running down the street.
Over a year in the planning, its open from Thursday to Sunday inside The Corner Boy, just off Stevenson Square, and is operating as a sit in or take out from the hatch next to the bar.
With a three year lease, it should be around for some time – but that’s no excuse to be slacking. Next time you’re around for a drink, go see them for a cone. You won’t regret it.
To find out more including opening times, head over to their Instagram.
Eats
A huge festival dedicated to tequila and mezcal is coming to Manchester this month
Daisy Jackson
Manchester’s first-ever Mezcal and Tequila Festival is taking place this month, filling Manchester Cathedral with tastings, masterclasses, cocktails and street food.
The massive event will see the Grade I-listed building transformed into an agave spirits tasting floor, featuring more than 100 varieties of premium tequilas and mezcals from some of Mexico’s best producers including El Jimador, Ojo de Tigre, El Sueno, Los Arcos, Del Maguey, Cazcabel, Komos, Nixta, Tapatio, El Tequileno, Tiempo and many more.
Festival-goers will be able to gain exclusive insights into the craftsmanship behind these spirits, sampling (responsibly, of course) from dozens of stands.
All samples, plus a limited-edition clay tasting copita, will be included in the ticket price – there’s no token system here and no extra charges for samples.
The new Mexican-inspired drinks festival only debuted in Glasgow back in Spring 2023 but it unsurprisingly went down an absolute storm – after all, what’s not to like a big festival full of booze?
Bartenders will stir up cocktails at the bespoke cocktail bar while the crowds are kept fed by delicious street food, including Mexican-inspired Taco Or Don’t, previously featured at the British Streetfood Awards.
And it’d be remiss of you to leave the festival empty-handed when you can take a taste of Mexico home from the exclusive bottle shop provided by Drinkmonger on site (with discount tokens included in the ticket price).
A tequila and mezcal festival is heading on Manchester. Credit: Supplied
Colin Campbell, one of Copita’s co-founders said: “We’re really excited to be bringing Copita to Manchester. It’s gone down brilliantly in Glasgow the last two years so we felt now was the right time to take it on the road and we couldn’t think of a better place than Manchester to head to next!
“It’s a really easy-going event with a great atmosphere, lots of local street food, shopping and music, so whether you’re an aficionado or a casual sipper we’re confident you’ll have a great time.”
The Copita Mezcal and Tequila Festival will be at Manchester Cathedral on Saturday 14 September.
Lina Stores – Italian deli restaurant serving homemade pasta and more is heading to Manchester
Daisy Jackson
Lina Stores is set to open its very first restaurant in Manchester early next year, taking its beloved mix of handmade pasta and deli food outside of London for the first time.
80 years after opening for the first time in Soho, Lina Stores is heading north to open a 150-cover restaurant.
Blending coffee shop, delicatessen, restaurant, and bar, the new space will be styled in traditional Lina Stores shades of pastel green hues, warm timber woods, and terrazzo and timber flooring.
You’ll find bespoke marble tables, original vintage Bentwood chairs, dark green booth seating and opaline globe lighting inspired by the original Brewer Street delicatessen.
Diners will be spoilt with an Italian-inspired breakfast menu, featuring dishes like truffle scrambled eggs with toasted sourdough, Greek yoghurt with Italian Macedonia fruit salad, and a selection of breakfast panini.
At lunchtimes and dinner there’ll be antipasti such as ricotta and herb gnudi fritti with Calabrian chilli marmellata, and tuna crudo with capers, pink peppercorn and salsa verde.
Lina Stores Manchester will have the brand’s beloved pasta dishes, such as the 30-egg yolk taglioni with black truffle, and lamb sausage ragu pappardelle, plus new options like lemon sole and potato raviolo.
For secondi (because this is Italy darling, you can have two mains!) there are dishes like chicken Milanese and Luganega fennel sausage.
And for dessert, it’s set to be a feast of Sicilian cannolo (filled with ricotta, pistachio and chocolate) and tiramisu.
Lina Stores – Italian deli restaurant serving homemade pasta and more is heading to Manchester. Credit: Rebecca Hope
In the open-plan delicatessen, you’ll be able to grab filling salads, freshly-made panini, and delicate cakes and pastries.
Shelves will be stocked with Lina Stores Collection pantry essentials, from olive oil to traditional biscotti.
And just next to that will be Bar Lina, serving classic and modern Italian cocktails for aperitivo hour until late at night.
Expect favourites like the bloody martini, Rinomata americano, and the basilico with gin, vermouth, basil and lemon.
The bar will have a versatile wine list from all corners of Italy, including the brand’s own signature collection.
Lina Stores Manchester will be located on Quay Street in the recently-refurbished Quoin building, right opposite the Opera House theatre.
Masha Rener, Head Chef of Lina Stores, said: “We’re extremely excited to be opening in Manchester this spring.
“The city feels like a natural home for us considering the area’s rich history, vibrant culinary scene and lively nightlife, and look forward to sharing our passion of great Italian food and produce with the Manchester community.
“Quay Street is the perfect location for us to do so, sitting right in the trifecta of Spinningfields, St John Street and St Peter’s Square.”