There’s a new addition on Stevenson Square and it’s causing a bit of a stir with those in the know.
Called the Fry By, it’s inspired by Amsterdam’s many chip (or frite) shops and has even created its own version of Fritessaus or frietsaus, the classic mayo-style condiment that no self-respecting Dutchman will do without.
That’s not the only topping option, though, far from it. These super crispy fries can come as loaded or as simple as you like, with a total of roughly 54 different flavour combinations on offer with six homemade salts and nine sauces to choose from – plus extra toppings.
And as well as the fry cones, there’s a handful of VHS-style boxes drawing inspiration from cult movies like Richie Rich and Goodfellas.
Staff wear bright yellow branded jackets and there’s a general air of cool around the place as friends saunter up to order cones piled-high with all sorts from fennel butter and lemon pepper mayo, to brown crab and onion and garlic salt.
ADVERTISEMENT
As we tuck into a cone of triple-cooked, perfectly crispy fries topped with their signature house Ando (lemon red pepper mayo) and pickled pink onion slices, founder Marwan Mounti tells us he came up with the idea last year whilst sat having a drink in Stevenson Square.
Realising Manchester was falling short on a late-night stop off for drunken scran since the disappearance of Slice, he hit on the idea to something inspired by the Netherlands fry obsession – given that he knows Amsterdam pretty well.
ADVERTISEMENT
“Slice used to slap, [but] there’s nowhere here that’s just like a quick bite rather than a sit down – because you can go Bab, you can go Ply, you can go Flok now, they’ve got food, but there’s nowhere where you can just be like yo, chips.”
His day job has him well embedded in the city’s food scene: running social media foodie accounts and creating content for the likes of Jerk Shack, Wholesome Junkies and Go Falafel. So if anyone knows what’s going on, it’s him.
We touch briefly on Oldham street’s chippy-turned-Turkish takeaway, which once did a decent-ish late night cone of chips but now slings everything from pizzas to paninis to kebabs, and decide it’s just not got the pull it once had.
ADVERTISEMENT
Tastes round here have definitely elevated in the past decade, even when you’re smashed, we agree.
“I feel like people are starting to give a f*** about what they’re eating,” says Marwan.
“Even when we’re pissed, my missus is just like ‘no I’m not eating that,'” he jokes, miming false shock at her refusal to enjoy a Tandoori chicken with him at two in the morning.
“I think we all have [got more fussy], we’re all like yo is that truffle oil? How do you make it? Is it fresh?” he quips, correctly (in our opinion).
“But that’s like where it came from,” he continues, telling us they wanted to make their own chips.
ADVERTISEMENT
“Everything’s [done[ on the day fresh, the potatoes were cut today, steamed, then blanched, then fried, all the sauces are made fresh on the day, all the meats are marinaded and like cooked off on the day, […] that’s why we’re [not opening until five because most of the prep is done in the morning and the afternoon.”
He reveals he’s become a bit of a potato obsessive, as part of his search for the perfect fry. We ask who their supplier is, and Marwan tells us McCalls – the vegetable stall next door to Jerk Shack just off High street.
“I’ve been working with them for years helping them with their Jerk Shack account, so I was just like ‘my turn now, sort me out’ he laughs.
We hear they’ve been through a few potatoes before finding the right one, ultimately settling on red Desiree.
“The potato really matters.,” he confides, “we had to compromise between crispiness and taste [in the end].
ADVERTISEMENT
“Sajitas are like super crispy but then they’d taste a bit frozen, you know the vibe, but these are like crispy, but not like 10-10 where you’re like ‘crisps’, but these are really tasty. Like nice and sweet, we brine them for a little bit so its like a bit of sour.”
As he says this, a loud crunch comes from the table behind us which perfectly makes his point.
“They sounded super crispy.!” he says enthusiastically, turning around to find the cruncher responsible. “Sorry, I’ve become obsessed. I’m not even joking.”
It’s early days here still, but we think Marwan’s on to a winner. He certainly knows his potatoes and he’s not wrong about the need for a high quality late night takeaway round that part of town (and every part of town) .
As the saying goes, if you will build it they will come. And come they have.
ADVERTISEMENT
Since opening just a couple of weeks ago, The Fry By has been pulling in big crowds with queues sometimes running down the street.
Over a year in the planning, its open from Thursday to Sunday inside The Corner Boy, just off Stevenson Square, and is operating as a sit in or take out from the hatch next to the bar.
With a three year lease, it should be around for some time – but that’s no excuse to be slacking. Next time you’re around for a drink, go see them for a cone. You won’t regret it.
To find out more including opening times, head over to their Instagram.
Eats
Six by Nico to close popular Manchester location as it ‘evolves’ into something new
Emily Sergeant
Unique restaurant concept Six by Nico has announced that it’ll be closing one of its most popular locations in Manchester.
Six by Nico is famed for its six-course tasting menu inspired by a different theme, destination, or concept that changes every six weeks – with the brand now having around 15 restaurants based in across 12 cities in the UK.
Launching in Manchester in Spring Gardens back in 2019, Six by Nico has gone from strength to strength ever since, opening a second site off Deansgate in 2023.
But despite this success, both nationwide and in Manchester, Six by Nico has sadly announced this week that its popular Spring Gardens site would be closing down as it is and ‘evolving into something entirely new for the city’.
Owner Nico Simeone took to Instagram last night to share the news of Spring Gardens’ impending closure, and explained what the future holds for the site.
“As Six by Nico approaches its tenth year, I look to reimagine one of our most successful restaurant locations, Six by Nico Springs Gardens, into something entirely new for the city,” Nico said in his Instagram statement.
“This hasn’t been a small decision. Spring Gardens has been one of our strongest and most loved restaurants. I’m incredibly proud of what we’ve built there, the team behind it and the loyalty Manchester has shown us over the years.
“Six by Nico will always stand for immersive storytelling, six-course journeys and transporting guests somewhere new. That continues, and we’re investing further into Manchester through our Deansgate location and beyond.”
Six by Nico is closing its popular Manchester location as it ‘evolves’ into something new / Credit: The Manc Group
The founder also then went on to say that he’s realised there’s another side of his cooking that he hasn’t shared, and it’s one that he feels is ‘more stripped back’ and ‘personal’.
“That’s where Lennox begins,” Nico continued.
Giving an insight into what the future holds for the Spring Gardens restaurant, the statement adds: “Spring Gardens won’t disappear. It will evolve. A new restaurant brand is being built in that space from the ground up. A different energy. A different style. A different way of cooking.”
The announcement that Six by Nico would be closing its concept at the Spring Gardens site has amassed dozens of comments on social media.
Anyone ‘curious’ to to know ‘what Lennox really is and what it will become’ is encouraged to sign up online at www.lennoxrestaurant.co.uk, and follow the journey on Instagram at @lennoxrestaurant.
Featured Image – The Manc Group
Eats
Cuppello’s latest community-led coffee shop is far from hidden, but it is a proper gem
Danny Jones
Cuppello’s newest site in Stretford is not just the second in Greater Manchester, but their third in the North West as a whole, and it’s their journey from cult favourite Warrington hole-in-the-wall to now a much-loved local coffee house and growing outlet for residents that we love so much.
Having opened their latest location just around the corner from the tram stop only a couple of weeks ago, you’d be forgiven for thinking these lot would only just be finding their footing in a very old school borough – but they’re not. They’re already thriving.
Taking over the reins in the unit which used to house Gigi’s Coffee Shop, three could prove to be the magic number in this instance, as the new crowning point of the Cuppello‘s triumvirate has seriously impressed us on multiple levels.
And besides the food and drink, it all starts with one thing: community.
They’re open from 7am until 7pm. (Credit: The Manc Eats)
From that original village venue over Cheshire, to opening their first city centre site just down Oldham Road near Ancoats, to taking on the no-nonsense town of Stretford, it’s a journey we enjoyed hearing about from its early beginnings to now.
Don’t get us wrong, we love seeing a lineup of unique items in acafé menu – take, for instance, their Spanish lattes or a Mont Blanc – but they’ve done themselves a world of good by making this as much of an up-and-coming community cornerstone as it is another spot to grab a good brew.
Sure, they have fresh flat-pressed bagels by Barbakan Deli in Chorlton, pastries from Companio, as well as artisan bakes by owner Harry Sheridan’s mum, Carol (whose homemade sweet treat obsession started with local legend, The Vakery MCR), but there are so many other reasons to keep coming back…
And yes, that does mean they’re vegan-friendly, by the way.
Besides the obvious brunchy bits like those bagels, which they finish with their own special seasoning, the iced coffees, smoothies, meal deals and so on, more importantly, there’s a full weekly programme of interesting and varied events hosted here too.
From a regular run club and pancake days that you don’t have to wait a whole year until they come back around, to movie nights with smash-burgers from The Food Drip next door, evenings spent playing card games, they’re looking to become not just a place to eat, drink and gather but a veritable institution.
Harry told us about how a Lymm local painted their striking piece of lemon artwork that hangs on the wall as thanks for their work with a nearby old people’s home, one that fits perfectly with the yellow-accented aesthetic, but also goes to show their track record when it comes to serving communities.
Speaking of which, they’ve got plenty of style all their own – as you can see:
Honestly, from being one of the most welcoming stops on a dog walk to even offering £1 hot chocolate for little ones coming home from the neighbouring schools (a very nice touch indeed), we’ve been left very impressed by their debut in old Manc market town.
And if you are in the Stretford area or live centrally and are just on the lookout for a new go-to coffee spot that’s only a few tram stops away, it really is some pretty stunning stuff they put in that cup.
Cuppello’s are known for putting a lot of effort into their roasts, but we’d also like to give a special mention to the ‘Karlito’, named after Harry’s dad, which we believe could be the secret behind this very cool-looking family.
A recipe of his own making, which has kept him youthful and on them move all these years, it’s a rich chocolate poured over four, yes, FOUR shots of espresso. We won’t lie to you, it’s pure rocket fuel, but it’ll definitely set you up for a feverishly productive day.
You can see more of the stuff on their food and drink menu HERE, and in case you’re wondering where else they’ve popped up in and around central Manchester, read more down below.
Georgina Pellant -
4th June 2021 
