A Manc’s guide to: Saddleworth, where people flock for a taste of the countryside

You really don’t have to travel far from Manchester to find yourself surrounded by rolling hills and lush fields. It’s one of the best things about living here.

And without even leaving Greater Manchester, you can find yourself in a land full of postcard-perfect villages, twisting country lanes, and cosy pubs – this is, of course, Saddleworth.

You’ll find glassy reservoirs, chocolate box villages, canals teeming with life, sweeping landscapes and bags more character here.

From Uppermill with its trendy high street full of bars and restaurants, to Delph nestled right down in the valley, there’s something to catch your eye.

We’ve been back over to Saddleworth to put together this handy guide to its best restaurants, things to do, cafes, bars, and loads more.

Food and drink

Albion Farm Shop and Cafe – This charming spot is worth the drive over to Saddleworth on its own. Food miles are pretty much wiped off the plate, with almost everything made on site with ingredients from Saddleworth. Expect seriously hearty farmer’s breakfasts, plus sandwiches on freshly baked farmhouse bread, giant burgers, rag puddings, cakes, and pies.

Grandpa Greene’s – Grandpa Greene’s ice cream is so legendary that during lockdown (when people were restricted to takeaways only), the queues forming outside literally stopped traffic. Their luxury ice cream pops up in restaurants all over the north west, but at its picturesque home on the canal you’ll find the full range of flavours, as well as pancakes, afternoon teas, and sandwiches.

Greene’s Bistro – From the same team as Grandpa Greene’s comes Greene’s Bistro, converting an old public toilet block in Uppermill into a beautiful, sun-soaked cafe and restaurant. Here they’ve really expanded their savoury offering, with huge brunches, massive hot sandwiches, small plates, loaded fries, and flatbreads.

The Old Bell Inn – Not only is it home to a record-breaking selection of gin, The Old Bell Inn is also a properly decent country pub. We’re talking top-notch Sunday roasts, pies and puddings, steaks, burgers and hand-cut chunky chips.

Kobe – Bang in the middle of Uppermill’s bustling high street, Kobe is the spot to come for fantastic coffee, epic sandwiches, and hearty brunches, all served in a beautiful space filled with natural wood and plenty of light. They’ve even got a huge dining space out the back with a retractable roof for sunnier days.

Weaver and Wilde – Arguably some of the best coffee in the region is being brewed at Weaver and Wilde – it’s roasted down the road then made with milk from a dairy herd grazing on Saddleworth grass. You can grab brunch, lunch and cakes here as well as your caffeine fix. Over in Greenfield, they also have Blackbird & Wilde (currently closed for a refurb), which is the go-to spot locally for pizza.

Diggle Lock – Diggle Lock is one of the hottest hangouts in the north west, never mind in Saddleworth, turning an old textile mill into a daytime restaurant and pantry store. The team is focused on serving up ‘city centre sophistication’ in the beautiful countryside, with a menu of massive brunches and sandwiches, excellent coffee and cocktails. You can even order dog-friendly sides, like peanut butter or black pudding, for your pooch.

Delve – The team from Diggle Lock last year branched out into Delph, opening a gorgeous neighbourhood bar and bistro in an old bank. On the ground floor it’s all dark wood and cosy, while upstairs is a pretty brunch space with huge windows. The menu is packed full of small and big plates with highlights like a Dutch puff (it’s basically a baked pancake/sweet Yorkshire pudding with lashings of pistachio on it), loaded croissants, and gochujang halloumi. 

The White Hart – For a pint with a view, The White Hart at Lydgate is arguably the best in the UK. This brilliant gastropub has earned plenty of critical acclaim for its food, but it still keeps the cosy community spirit of a village pub (complete with real ales, a roaring fire, and a lengthy wine list).

Shopping

Uppermill in particular is an absolute hive of independent business, from local produce to clothing to gifts, and 10/10 charity shops.

There’s Authentic, which describes itself as a treasure trove of artisan products; Puddleducks, which sells beautiful children’s clothing; and ‘slow fashion’ boutique Suki’s Wardrobe.

You can pick up wines and spirits from Saddleworth Wine Vault or squeeze into the lovely Towpath Book Shop, sandwiched into a tiny building on the high street.

The Reclamation Room is a vibrant creative space and cafe for the community, where you can buy art from local artists straight off the walls.

Over in Delph, we’re very excited to see the doors to The Frostery Living’s store open, with a space filled with homewares and other lifestyle bits from the best makers across the UK and Europe.

Then another must-visit across in Greenfield is The Old Cobblers, which sells natural wine, craft beer, great coffee and a range of locally-made gifts, with no corkage should you want to neck your bottle of wine on the seats outside.

And you can have a full pamper in Uppermill too, with Lauren Beth Medical Aesthetics & Beauty offering everything from aesthetic injections, to massages, to lashes and brows.

Nightlife and hotels

If you’re wanting to go out dancing into the wee small hours, you’ll probably need to head a bit further towards Oldham town centre.

Having said that, the pubs here are usually buzzing into the evening, and Muse in Uppermill is open past midnight (with cocktail deals, DJs to go with your Sunday roast, and some occasional celeb spotting).

On the last Sunday of every month, the Off The Rails Comedy Club pulls up at The Royal George in Greenfield.

When it comes to accommodation, you’re spoilt for choice.

You can stay in several of the aforementioned pubs – like the Old Bell Inn and The White Hart – or rest your head in one of many beautiful cottages around Saddleworth.

We love the Pots and Pans Cottage in Uppermill, and this woodland lodge tiny home with its floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the countryside.

This converted barn, complete with huge arched window, wooden beams, and loads of outside space, is pretty special too.

Culture

In a corner of Greater Manchester as picturesque as this, the great outdoors really is the best place to spend your spare time.

You can take a leisurely stroll or cycle along the many waterways, walk the perimeter of Dovestone Reservoir, or tackle the more challenging beauty spot above it (but be careful on this one, as more than a few walkers have come into trouble on the route).

The Yanks weekend is usually a staple of Saddleworth’s cultural calendar, transporting the area back to the 1940s complete with entertainment, costume, vehicles and a parade.

You’ll also find a jazz festival, a blues festival, an art week, a traditional Rushcart and loads more things going on throughout the year.

Saddleworth Museum & Gallery is well worth a visit, and Uppermill Library is housed in one of the most beautiful buildings in the area.

Property

Considering how beautiful and green Saddleworth it, there’s still a lot of relatively affordable property to be found (especially when you compare it to leafy suburbs like Altrincham and Didsbury).

According to the Land Registry, the average property price over the last year was £295,405, with the majority of homes sold being terraced houses.

On the market currently you’ll find something at all ends of the budget spectrum.

Transport

Of all the villages in Saddleworth, Greenfield is the one that’s best-served by public transport.

The Transpennine Express train from Manchester to Huddersfield stops off here fairly regularly.

For the rest of Saddleworth, you’ll be reliant on buses to get around, like the 350 bus which helpfully weaves its way through Greenfield, Uppermill and Delph – and even stops right outside the Albion Farm Shop and Cafe.

Featured image: The Manc Group