Sherlock Holmes is the greatest detective the world has ever seen or will ever see. That’s elementary.
Since coming to life via the pen of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle in the 19th century, the deerstalker-donning pipe-smoker has been regarded as the quintessential riddle-solver; a man capable of fathoming any mystery by sewing together peripheral details that no one else can see.
The character has been regularly reincarnated in various forms for over 130 years – with Holmes’ legend so deeply embedded in British culture that he’s occasionally mistaken for a real historical figure.
Of course, some would be quick to point out that no real-life detective could ever solve the kind of complex cases seen in Holmes books or movies. Let alone in such fascinatingly far-fetched ways.
But in fact, one such detective did indeed exist. And he walked the streets of Victorian Manchester before Holmes was just a twinkle in Doyle’s eye.
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Jerome Caminada.
Jerome Caminada / Image: Wikipedia
An Italian-Irish resident of Deansgate in the 1800s, Caminada clocked up more than 1,200 personal arrests as a lawman – earning him a fearsome reputation and a begrudging admiration from the felons who spent their days trying to stay off the detective’s radar.
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During a period when you couldn’t walk through Manchester city centre without being pickpocketed or drunkenly walloped, Caminada was storming through the streets single-handedly seizing crooks by their collars.
Before police were running training programmes or teaching their recruits, he was donning disguises and going undercover, stepping up to solve cases that others were prepared to chalk up as ‘one of life’s great mysteries.’
Caminada’s story is a remarkable one, and it came to wider public attention in recent years thanks to the work of Angela Buckley – a Manchester-born author who started writing about the detective’s life after realising it intertwined with her own.
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Poring through the pages of her family history, Angela realised her distant relatives (who lived in Deansgate and Anocats) would’ve known Caminada – including one ancestor who owned a brothel on the policeman’s beat.
“It was when I looked deeper into my ancestor’s nefarious life I discovered that he must have come into contact with Caminada,” Angela tells The Manc.
“My personal links to Caminada were really strong – so I started to read more about him and just wanted to bring it to a wider audience.”
Ancoats circa 1898 / Image: Manchester Libraries
Caminada was born in Deansgate in 1844 and was – like many in the area at the time – raised in abject poverty.
Whilst affluent people continued to work in prestigious buildings in the city centre, the adjoining streets that linked to Deansgate were considered no-go areas, riddled with pickpockets, thieves, fraudsters, tricksters, drunks and robbers.
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The local police force was still in its infancy back then and had all the robustness of a Neighbourhood Watch; well-intentioned but lacking the experience, resources or know-how to tackle crime on any meaningful level.
It meant that Manchester’s streets became a villain’s playground, and by the 1870s, local crime rates were four times higher than they were in London.
Around 1873, a local newspaper sent a writer into the slums to get up close and personal with the criminal underworld – with the journalist reporting back on the shocking scenes of forgers, counterfeiters and vagrants huddled in squalor around fires, concocting various get-rich-quick schemes.
Of course, not everyone was a career criminal. Many misdemeanours – like pickpocketing and pinching clothes off washing lines – were simply down to desperation.
The impoverished era also saw the dawn of ‘scuttlers‘ – hooligan teenage gangs that participated in knife fights on the city streets (groups would name themselves after their area, such as the ‘Bengal Tigers’ from Bengal Street in Ancoats and ‘Meadow Lads’ from Angel Meadow).
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It would have been easy for Caminada to embrace a life of crime. But he committed himself to cleaning up the city instead – joining the ‘A Division’ police at Knott Mill Station in his mid-twenties.
Within a matter of days after signing up, the danger of his chosen profession became apparent.
Caminada experienced a true baptism of fire as a Bobby – being punched in the face during his first week on the beat whilst on John Dalton Street in 1868.
“He was just a poor boy from the slums – he didn’t have any real [police] training; none of them did back then,” Angela explains.
“The only criteria really was that you had to be strong to become a policeman. And because they were beaten up so much a lot of them were really fearless.
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“Of course, a lot of them died, too.”
I’m very excited to announce that my publisher @penswordbooks has decided to reissue The Real Sherlock Holmes in paperback! More details to follow in due course but in the meantime, here’s a sneak preview of the new cover 🔎😁 pic.twitter.com/E3K7GGhsmg
Caminada quickly proved he could handle himself (he even got battered with his own umbrella one day when he took on anarchists in Stevenson Square) but it was his intuition, intelligence, and incredible eye for detail that turned him into a local legend.
When he wasn’t standing his ground on the streets, Caminada was taking a tactful approach to bring down the bigger crooks; going undercover in various guises such as a priest or travelling salesman.
In one case, when Caminada was investigating fraudulent doctors, he’d fake ailments to get appointments and gather evidence whilst he was being treated – getting his hands on fake tonics to prove they didn’t work.
He always seemed to be one step ahead – and he took action to keep it that way.
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Before inmates were released from local jails, Caminada would wander the cells and stare at the felons inside – burning the images of their faces into his brain.
It was like a primitive form of capturing a mugshot. This way, he’d know which troublemakers to look out for when they were released (reoffending was unsurprisingly common due to poverty).
During decades spent prowling the Manchester region, Caminada got to know many of the main culprits – who would exchange banter with the detective from time-to-time (although most couldn’t pronounce his unusual-sounding Italian surname, calling him ‘Cammy’ instead).
The detective also built up his own trusted network of informants, whom he’d kneel alongside at St Mary’s Church, pretend he was praying, and get the intel he needed to find a break in a case.
“I haven’t come across a detective in my time any better than Caminada,” Angela reveals.
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“He was extraordinary.”
Caminada knew it, too.
His memoirs are knowingly self-aggrandising in parts – and often dismissive of any colleagues who had the audacity to be hoodwinked by local crooks.
“I’m sure he could be difficult to work with,” explains Angela.
“Caminada was feared, but also it seems like he was kind of respected, too.
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“There was one incident reported in a newspaper which describes a street brawl breaking out and a plain-clothed police officer coming out of one of the nearby properties, dragging the culprits off and running them off home.
“It’s quite obvious that it was Caminada. He did that all the time. He was always in the city walking around at night and he knew everybody.”
Market Street in the late 1800s/early 1900s / Image: Wikiwand
Like any obsessive lawman, Caminada was always working – even when he wasn’t at work.
“There was one incident where someone parked their lorry on Caminada’s pavement not far from Angel Meadow – and he took them to court,” Angela reveals.
“He brought up a lot of court cases in his personal life. He was constantly doing it.”
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Caminada was often in the headlines during his colourful career – but the ‘Manchester Cab Mystery’ was perhaps his greatest moment in the spotlight.
The story went like this: On the evening of 26 February 1889, a tipsy businessman named John Fletcher hailed a cab on the steps of Manchester Cathedral with a young man. An hour later – with the cab stuck in a procession for Wild West Show – a passerby alerted the driver that one of his passengers had scarpered. Fletcher, meanwhile, had been left for dead on the backseat.
There were no obvious signs of violence, but the fact that some of Fletcher’s key belongings had vanished along with the other passenger suggested something wasn’t right.
Caminada was called upon to solve the conundrum and did so in typically impressive fashion.
After learning that a chemical – chloral hydrate – had been found in Fletcher’s stomach when he died, Caminada started searching for culprits involved in illegal prizefighting (as he knew the drug was used in these circles to subdue opponents and rig matches). He even managed to track down a witness who’d seen a man, Charlie Parton, pouring liquid into Fletcher’s beer.
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In three weeks, Caminada had cracked the case – with Parton being convicted.
Caminada’s success is perhaps even more impressive considering the tragedy that befell him throughout his lifetime.
He lost his father at the age of three, before several of his siblings died of syphilis and his mother went blind.
After getting married, Caminada lost three of his own children – all of whom died in their infancy due to congenital heart defects.
According to Angela, the heartbreak he suffered was reflected in his work.
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“He does show compassion for poor victims,” she explains.
“He has a rehabilitating view despite his hard-boiled exterior.
“He did try to help people on the right track. He understood the causes of criminality.”
It’s true that Caminada could easily be a character lifted right out the pages of a bestselling crime book.
He even had his own arch-enemy – a would-be murderer by the name of Bob Horridge, with whom he contested a final (deadly) gun battle on the streets of Liverpool.
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It was cinematic.
But not even the best detective can work forever.
Caminada’s innovative style has earned him comparisons to famous detective Sherlock Holmes / Image: Wikipedia
As the 19th century wore on, many of Manchester’s slums were cleared – including around Oxford Road to make way for the rail station. Scuttlers, too, were largely disbanded as young men found activities such as football clubs taking shape.
But crime still remained rife – even within the police itself.
Manchester police force was subject to a big scandal in the 1890s – with one Superintendent found to be involved in the ownership of a brothel.
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Whilst many detectives were exonerated during the investigation, the Chief Constable stepped down in the aftermath and was replaced by his ACC – with whom Caminada shared a bitter history.
This ultimately brought about the end of his police career.
Caminada would later become a private detective before eventually joining the council where, ironically, he spent all this time complaining about how much money the police force spent.
Still, despite skirmishes with high-profile officers, Caminada nonetheless impressed many key personnel and left an indelible mark on British law enforcement.
The Head of Scotland Yard once named Caminada as one of the best detectives he’d ever come across.
But his most famous parallel remains Mr Sherlock Holmes.
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle would’ve been aware of Caminada given his fame and status, and it’s interesting to wonder whether ‘Cammy’ may have gone some way to inspiring one of literature’s most famous detectives of all time.
“Caminada was known as ‘Manchester’s Sherlock Holmes’ back then, it’s not a description from today,” Angela points out.
“That’s not to say Holmes was based on Caminada. But there are lots of links. You can draw your own conclusions.
“Either way, he was a real character, that’s for sure. And one of the very best detectives there was.”
Angela Buckley’s fascinating book – The Real Sherlock Holmes: The Hidden Story of Jerome Caminada – is available at Amazon now.
Where to find a great pint of Guinness in Manchester city centre
Georgina Pellant
When it comes to finding a good pint of Guinness, it’s fair to say that not all Manchester boozers are created equal — however, we do believe we have some of the very best outside of Ireland.
Some pints are thin and watery, some have a bit of a bitter taste and some are missing that all-important signature creamy head. All things you want to avoid. In fact, if you go into a pub and see any of this our advice is to run.
Any bartender worth their salt will tell you that there’s a certifiable art to pouring out a proper pint of the black stuff, starting with a two-part pour: a practice considered sacrosanct for literally hundreds of years. Your pint should be properly poured with 3/4 of it filled with old stout, rested, then topped up with new, and when the drink is done a white residue should remain around the glass.
These, as we know them, are the very basics but serious Guinness drinkers can likely reel off a whole list of other criteria that we haven’t even touched on. For now, though, that’ll do and these are the very best places that boast not just a good but a great pint of Guinness in Manchester — in no particular order.
Well, we say no order… Widely renowned for having the best pint of Guinness in Manchester hands down, if it’s authenticity you’re looking for then Mulligans of Deansgate is a must.
An authentic Irish bar with live music almost every night and plenty of cosy snugs to tuck yourself away in, it’s typically packed to the rafters and bartenders pride themselves on never, EVER leaving a bubble in your pint.
This equally cosy Northern Quarter bar on Thomas Street is another good choice for those looking for a great pint of Guinness and some bloody good food while they’re at it.
Bay Horse always has deals on too, including a pie and a pint for a tenner on Mondays, which might be one of the most affordable prices for a Guinness and a good meal in the city centre full stop these days.
Run by one of Britain’s oldest and longest-serving landlords, come for its bold green tile-clad exterior and stained glass windows and stay for a very smooth pint of Guinness.
4. The Castle Hotel – NQ
Great pub.Great Guinness.Great people.Credit: Dunk (via Flickr)/The Manc/The Castle Hotel (via IG)
Another great NQ pub, this time on Oldham Street, The Castle Hotel is another spot you can completely rely on for quality Guinness. Its pours have even been accredited.
The real ale pub boasts lots of charming little corners, a small beer garden out back, a great jukebox and a gig room where you can watch local bands whilst sipping on proper pints.
5. Kiely’s Irish Bar – Great Northern Warehouse
Phwoar. (Credit: The Manc)
In at number five is one of the very best Irish bars in Manchester for our money and that’s Kiely’s over on Great Northern. Prone to lots of spill-over from the busy scenes on Peter Street and Deansgate strip most weekends, you’ll find plenty of people heading in here for a great pint of Guinness.
With live music and sports on the box most days, not to mention plenty of room for the big crowds on match days and the likes of St. Patrick’s name day, you can count on this place for plenty of the black gold and good vibes.
This gorgeous Grade II-listed freehouse sits on the border of Ancoats and the Northern Quarter dates all the way back to 1774 and is literally oozing history.
Reopened in 2005 in cooperation with English Heritage and lovingly refurbished not long ago, it has an incredibly fine and unusual ceiling, a brilliant pub quiz and one of the best pints of Guinness in the neighbourhood.
7. Edinburgh Castle
Quietly one of the best non-Irish pub pints of Guinness you’ll get in Manchester. (Credit: The Manc)
Whilst we’re talking about Ancoats, the elegant Edinburgh Castle also deserves a very honourable mention for its Guinness pour.
This refurbished Victorian boozer not only boasts Manchester’s most elite chip butty and great food all-round from its stunning upstairs restaurant but is also widely considered one of the best places for a pint of Guinness in town. Trust us.
8. O’Shea’s Irish Bar – Central
Well look who it is!Shelf and a half, that.Credit: O’Shea’s Irish Bar (via IG)/The Manc Group
Obviously, we have to talk about O’Shea’s. This Irish bar is widely considered a go-to for a good pint of Guinness, with some even reporting they prefer their pints to Mulligans — controversial, we know, but this is a democracy after all.
During the pandemic, the bar also made a splash in the city by opening a giant outdoor Guinness garden and you can rest assured it’ll be one of the best places to spend Paddy’s Day this year.
Another historic boozer recently reborn after a couple of years of sitting boarded up on the busy Manchester stretch from which it takes its name is one of our personal favourites, The Deansgate.
Now under the ownership of Greene King and serving up a cracking pint of Guinness from its ground-floor and first-floor bars alongside a hearty pub grub menu, what’s not to like?
10. Lass O’Gowrie – Oxford Road Corridor
Such a welcoming space.That tilt though…Credit: The Manc
Oh, she’s a bonnie wee Lassie, the Gowrie. One of the best-loved city centre spots you’ll ever have the pleasure of popping in for a pint, the Scottish-founded but heavily Irish-influenced pub knows a thing or two about pouring a proper pint of Guinness.
What’s more, we just love spending time in here full stop as there’s always plenty on; whether it’s a quiz or open mic night or you simply just want to sit out on their fairy-lit balcony terrace hanging over the River Medlock, it’s an absolute jewel in the Oxford Road Corridor‘s crown.
11. O’Neill’s – Printworks
Credit: The Manc
An absolute dynasty when it comes to Irish bars across the UK, we couldn’t not put O’Neill’s on this list as no matter how busy they get every Friday and Saturday they never fail to pull a good pint of Guinness.
With Waxy O’Connor’s having left the Printworks a little while back, it’s now the go-to place for a solid stout in the popular leisure and entertainment venue, plenty of punters all over the country consider it their go-to for the craic.
Heading just outside of the city centre for our next tipple, there are some locals living in the enclave of Chorlton and beyond that believe Duffy’s is the very best pint of Guinness anywhere in Greater Manchester; better than Mulligans, O’Shea’s, Kiely’s — all of them. Big words.
We’d never be so bold as to fall on our swords when it comes to such a precious debate that people are always so passionate about, but what we will say is that this regular Man United pub is a very good place to split the G.
13. The New Oxford – Salford
Another gem located just outside of the city limits and down the road from Spinningfields is The New Oxford in Bexley Square on Chapel Street. Recently restored and absolutely glowing, it’s not only one of the prettiest traditional pubs you’ll find in 0161 but it does a bloody good Guinness.
With Irish roots and staff behind the bar, as well as an authentic vintage pump shipped straight over from Temple Bar in Dublin, the sip in this place is just as sublime as the setting. An extremely underrated spot.
14. The Old Nag’s Head – Deansgate
AWe know this is technically easy rules but we’re counting it.Credit: The Manc
Another big stronghold for Reds — well, the biggest in the city centre, certainly — The Old Nag’s Head isn’t just a good place to watch the footy or make a fool of yourself on karaoke, the staff also serve up a pretty decent pint of Guinness too.
You might struggle to get a seat when United are and they do often have a bit of queue on the busier of nights, but the atmosphere in here is great, the dancefloor upstairs is dynamite and the rooftop terrace is a wonderful hideaway when the sun is out.
When one door closes, another one opens and in the case of the Thirsty Scholar, we were truly gutted to see it go but relieved to see it replaced with a very pretty Irish pub that’s instantly become a hit with the locals. Welcome to O’Connell’s.
The video above should tell you all you need to know about the charming aesthetic of this place and having been in a few times since it opened, we can confirm the atmosphere is following suit. Manchester has some of the best Irish pubs outside of Ireland, and this one quickly worked its way into the rankings.
16. The Station – Didsbury
Last but not least, we’re giving the nod to another pub located outside of the city centre and that is The Station, which also happens to be one of the best pubs on the Didsbury Dozen bar crawl.
A fave amongst the suburbs locals and old boys going for a scoop in the afternoon, this is another one that many people put firmly forward as number one in the argument for the best pint of Guinness in Greater Manchester, not to mention at a decent price.
10 photos through the decades that show how much Oldham Street has changed
Thomas Melia
Oldham Street these days is one of the Northern Quarter’s most famous spots, home to vintage shops like Pop Boutique, Blue Rinse and Vinyl Exchange, as well as countless little bars and cafes.
Perching itself right in the middle of Northern Quarter and spanning all the way from Piccadilly Gardens to Great Ancoats Street, Oldham Street has been keeping up with the trends since day one.
If you’ve ever wondered how to boost your status in the indie circles or want to show off your individuality, this road has is one of Manchester’s biggest culture hotspots.
After all, there’s not many streets that can say they’re home to Afflecks Palace.Well it’s on a crossroads so there’s four which have that claim to fame but my point still stands!
But it hasn’t always been the shabbily cool little street of today, so we’ve been diving back through the archives to bring you photos of Oldham Street how it used to look.
Oldham Street – Over the years
Oldham Street facing Piccadilly Corner, 1894
Credit: The Manchester Library/ The Manc Group
This particular photo shows the main gateway to bohemian paradise, also known as Oldham Street.
The shops standing tall in these buildings may have changed owners a fair few times but the original architectural design has stayed the same.
Just like the photo from 1894, it’s hard to take a picture of this area without crowds of people, we can’t help being so popular, that’s just Manchester!
Oldham Street facing Piccadilly Corner, 1903
Credit: The Manchester Library/ The Manc Group
What was once a tea supplier that went onto become PG Tips, is now an American fast-food chain Five Guys.
The first picture denotes a shop front with the title ‘Brooke Bond & co.’, launching PG Tips in the 1930’s under ‘Pre-Gestee’ which relates to its original name ‘Digestive Tea’.
The second half of this notable brand is due to the fact that only the top two leaves and bud are used in their blend, the tips, and that’s what makes the company what we know and love today, PG Tips.
Oldham Street merging into Great Ancoats Street, 1920
Credit: The Manchester Library/ The Manc Group
The times have definitely changed since the first photo, swapping horseback travel for cars and a pedestrian crossing.
The end building which joins together Oldham Street with Great Ancoats Street is none other than Wayfarer.
After trekking all the way from Five Guys and making it to the other end of this bustling row of shops, there’s nothing better than a stop off for a cheeky pint.
Oldham Street, 1940
Credit: The Manchester Library/ The Manc Group
There she is in all her glory, no not Afflecks Palace, Blue Rinse, where you can find some trendy and snazzy items that feel like they’ve been pulled right out of a time capsule straight from the 80’s.
However, you can’t visit this retail road and not show some love to the city centre emporium as it’s stacked with four floors of independent shops ready to welcome you with open arms.
No matter what time of day you go, expect to walk past some incredibly dressed shoppers from emos to hippies, this place brings everyone together.
Oldham Street and Great Ancoats Street, 1959
Credit: The Manchester Library/ The Manc Group
It’s now one of those pubs that toes the line between traditional boozer and hip Ancoats hangout, and still bears the scars of the huge fire that tore through it in 1989.
Looking back to the late 1950s though you can see how well this building has been preserved, even if the pint prices have crept ever-higher.
Oldham Street and Warwick Street, 1967
Credit: The Manchester Library/ The Manc Group
Manchester is constantly changing its skyline and it gained another mini skyscraper in 2022 thanks to The Quarters.
Tied between Oldham Street and Warwick Street, this building is a residential complex with 100 apartments.
The two buildings in the middle of the first photo were torn down in 2013 after a fire.
Oldham Street, 1967
Credit: The Manchester Library/ The Manc Group
Two fashion retailers and a Beaverbrooks jewellers have traded in their stay on Oldham Street and in their spot is none other than a retro-themed bar and… an empty building.
The Mean Eyed Cat bar has taken over what was previously District, a futuristic sushi bar. You’d never have found that in 1960s Manchester.
Oldham Street and Hilton Street, 1967
Credit: The Manchester Library/ The Manc Group
Underneath all that bright green scaffolding is a hostel, bar and pub, who, as with a lot of things in Manchester, are getting a make over.
It’s hard to tell but underneath all the building work are some gorgeous windows like in the photo from the 70’s that are still shining brightly today.
The record shop may have been traded in for a Turtle Bay but there’s still some cracking places to dig through the crates: Vinyl Exchange, Piccadilly Records, Vinyl Resting Place and Vinyl Revival.
Oldham Street, 1970
Credit: The Manchester Library/ The Manc Group
This picture is a national treasure in itself and we’re sure some readers will be very familiar with this piano-inspired shop front.
Swan’s Pianos and Organs were a music lover’s heaven with instruments galore and although it might not be standing today, in its place is another shop with a very important legacy, Koffee Pot.
This Manchester institution and slap up caff has been famed for its brekkie and brunch delights which warm the soul just like a musical melody.
Oldham Street, 1986
Credit: The Manchester Library/ The Manc Group
Sunset Strip was ahead of its time, if only it would’ve known that in today’s day and age a brand new pool hall would open up not too far away in Kampus.
Although this ball game establishment might not have been pairing rounds of pool with frozen margs and birria tacos, they were brightening the high street with their vibrant shopfront.
Nowadays rests ‘Northstar’ a creative workspace set to inspire forward thinking and inspirational ideas, they’ve even continued the colourful legacy of the pool hall prior.
Oldham Street you’ve always been at the epicentre of all things culture and we’re sure it’s set to stay that way forevermore, keep thriving R’kid!