Four Manchester-born eateries have been named as some of the best in the world right nowby the Observer in its esteemed Top 50 list.
Bundobust, Trove, Yakumama and The Landing all feature in the prestigious foodie guide, which lays out the national paper’s favourite food highlights for 2022.
In the list of 50 things we love in the world of food right now, a group of ten critics for the paper pick out the fifty things they love most in the world of food right now – and Manchester has done pretty well.
Image: Bundobust
Newly reborn from the ashes of the pandemic as a family-friendly pizza parlour, former bar-restaurant Common gets an honourable mention in the list for its changing attitude to dining-in.
And Manchester Art Gallery is also given a nod, as the Observer praises ex-Masterchef contestant Adam Leavy for his ” quality sandwiches”.
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Keep reading to discover what the critics had to say about the rest.
Trove Bakery
Tony Naylor highlights Trove bakery’s chorizo sausage roll, calling the search for the definitive roll “a life’s work.” We completely agree.
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Trove baker Ruth Gwillim, Naylor writes, is no stranger to “moments of revelation” but her latest creation might just be the most revelatory yet.
Image: Trove
She has created a “sausage roll for the ages” – combining chorizo and sausage meat with French butter pastry, its filling peppered with fennel seeds.
“Where most sausage rolls cool and congeal into a stodgy lump, this sings even at room temperature,” he writes ebulliently.
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Bundobust Brewery
Vegetarian and vegan street food favourites Bundobust also feature prominently, except this time the focus is on its new Manchester brewery restaurant.
Read more:Bundobust has been secretly brewing its own beer in Manchester for eight months
Housed in a 100-year-old Grade II-listed building on Oxford Road, it boasts a custom-built 10-hectolitre facility capable of producing 20,000 pints a month – not to mention a talented head brewer in Dan Hocking, formerly of Uiltje.
Image: Bundobust
Naylor writes: “Good beer is essential to Bundobust: Bradford-born owners Marko Husak and Mayur Patel first bonded over the emerging craft beer scene of the early 2010s.
“Its IPAs and sours became the ideal foil for Patel’s food – meat-free Gujarati family recipes updated for the street-food generation”.
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Yakumama
Billed as “offering respite from the restaurant industry’s frothiest excesses”, this Manchester food truck turned restaurant in West Yorkshire is showered in praise.
Operated by Hannah Lovett and Marcelo Sandova, the Latin American-inspired cantina serves a short menu of colourful, meat-free small plates – all designed to share.
Image: Yakumama
Naylor is just as enthusiastic about the space (a 19th-century former Co-Op building in Todmorden, situatedon the border of West Yorkshire and Manchester) as he is the menu, writing:
“Beyond its ornate 19th-century frontage the airy dining room is fairly plain. There are plants. Art. Nothing showy.”
He continues: “The Andean-style crisp potatoes with kalamata olive sauce, smoked paprika oil and pickled peppers, topped with a boiled egg, embodies Yakumama’s imaginative use of vibrant sauces and pickles to create astonishing food.
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“An example of what is possible without meat or lots of money.”
The Landing
Not technically an eatery, more of a kitchen garden, this rooftop allotment opposite Stockport’s Merseyway shopping centre nonetheless still feeds Mancunians – albeit indirectly.
The latest kitchen garden for Where The Light Gets, according to Naylor it was inspired by a 2011 lecture on urban farming held at Manchester international festival and brought to realisation with the help of Manchester Urban Diggers (MUD).
In the summer, the WTLGI team is at the garden daily, uprooting and picking a veritable wealth of produce to create the constantly changing “Landing Plate” as well as coming up with specials, such as a “Stockport saag” made with Landing-grown shisho, spinach and curry leaves.
Image: Where The Light Gets In
Naylor writes: “Here, grower Nick Harlow cultivates, for example, numerous chillies, Andean tubers oca and mashua and “the sweetest” poona kheera cucumbers. “It’s 100% exposed, so it’s red hot up there,” says Buckley. “The greenhouse was 20C [in December].”
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Throwing in Gaggs from Buckley about growing lemongrass above Ann Summers, he also touches on the more serious point of utilising empty spaces for food production as well as flagging plans to host craft workshops and gardening days to “illustrate what is possible in urban environments.”
Feature image – Trove
Eats
Northern Quarter craft beer bar Fierce Bar announces sudden closure
Thomas Melia
A much loved independent craft beer bar in the heart of the Northern Quarter is set to close before the end of the year.
Fierce Bar, which opened in Manchester city centre in 2020, has been a firm favourite for Mancs and visitors alike with their range of beers and IPAs.
The Fierce Beer company has established itself as a leading force within the beer community winning ‘Scottish Brewery of the Year in 2021’ and numerous Scottish Beer Awards.
Their wide range of drink flavours pay homage to varieties from the USA and offered people who frequented their Thomas Street site in the Northern Quarter were treated to a refreshing taste of the transatlantic.
The Thomas Street bar had previously been home to 57 Thomas Street, a bar operated by Marble Brewery, which also operates The Marble Arch.
In a post on social media which opens with, “Some sad news…”, the company have stated: “We face continually spiralling costs that unfortunately mean it’s going to be unsustainable to continue operating the venue viably going forward”.
There’s still some hope as beer brand have also announced: “This is not the end for Fierce Beer south of the border though; we’re continuing to keep an eye on the market and aim to get back as soon as we can with a new physical location.”
Anyone wanting to continue the bar’s legacy in Manchester can sport the indie establishment’s range of t-shirts, hats and funky glasses, some of which adorned the walls.
Being a Scottish born and bred brewery, if you’re still after your alcohol fix, you can still visit their two other locations in Edinburgh and Aberdeen next time you’re heading up north.
The last day of trade for Fierce Bar will be 20 December where the founders Dave and Louise will be heading to the Manchester site say a sad goodbye.
As it will be the final night of service ever, the team are urging anyone to pop down for a pint or two to commemorate the Manchester home.
It’s a shame to see such a well-used city centre social space shutting its doors, however Fierce Beer loyalists fear not as their online website is still very much alive and thriving here.
Six By Nico launches tasting menu inspired by Christmas dinner
Daisy Jackson
Everyone’s favourite affordable tasting menu restaurant, Six By Nico, has announced its first-ever festive Sunday roast menu.
The beloved restaurant group, which now has two locations in Manchester, is famed for serving creative and interesting tasting menus, but at a much more accessible price than other fine dining establishments – just £44 a head.
Then you can add on extra snacks, perfectly-paired wine flights, and even matching cocktails.
At Six By Nico, the inspiration is always changing, whether the menus bring a sense of nostalgia, memories of a much-loved book or film, or whisk you away across the globe with dishes inspired by another country’s cuisine.
Previous menus have included The Chippy Tea, Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, and The Mad Hatter’s Tea Party.
Six By Nico switches up its six-course tasting menus every six weeks, keeping customers coming back time and time again for the next adventurous experience.
And one of the best things is the flexibility that these tasting menus have, catering for vegans, veggies, pescatarians and more. You can even mix and match courses across tasting menus to suit your mood and dietary requirements.
Inside one of Six By Nico’s two Manchester restaurants. Credit: The Manc Group
The next menu that has had us clicking ‘book’ at the speed of light is Six By Nico’s first-ever Festive Sunday Roast menu, with six courses and a cocktail pairing.
The new Six By Nico tasting menu features all the flavours of Christmas Day, presented in creative and exciting ways.
For example, your evening will begin with ‘Pigs in Blankets’ (pork pressé, Sauerkraut, burnt onion and grain mustard), as well as a Brussels Sprouts-inspired course that used barbecue hispi cabbage, aged ewe’s cheese, pickled mushrooms and black garlic emulsion.
For the main event it’s the Three Bird Roast – duck, chicken and turkey ballotine, liver parfait, honey glazed carrot and Madeira jus.
And you’d be remiss not to add the Ultimate Yorkshire Pudding on as an extra, made with pork and sage stuffing and sauce charcuterie.
Chocolate Profiteroles on the Six By Nico festive roast menu. Credit: SuppliedThe Six By Nico Christmas dinner-inspired tasting menu features Baked Brie De Meaux, homemade mince pie and Peckhams pearAnother dish on the Six By Nico Christmas dinner-inspired festive menu
Course five is Baked Brie De Meaux, homemade mince pie and Peckhams pear, then to finish Six By Nico has Chocolate Profiteroles, Tahitian vanilla Choux au Craquelin, chocolate Cremeux, buttermilk sorbet and dulce de leche.
In a second brand-first, Six by Nico Manchester has created a perfectly matched cocktail pairing to accompany the six-course tasting menu (£40pp) which includes six cocktails including an Apple and Dill Martini.
It’s just another example of the way Six By Nico keeps pushing the game forward.
Andrew Temple, Chief Creative Officer, spoke of the menu’s festive twist: “The response to our Sunday Roast menu has been incredible, and we wanted to capture that excitement in a way that complements the holiday season.
“Extending the Sunday Roast with a festive version not only celebrates the British classic but adds a layer of excitement in the build up to the Festive season.
“We’re looking forward to sharing this seasonal reimagining with our guests, bringing them both the comfort and joy of the festive period.”
The Festive Sunday Roast is £44 per person, with an additional wine pairing available for £30, or a matched cocktail pairing for £40. It’s available to book every Sunday from 24 November until 5 January HERE.
Georgina Pellant -
22nd February 2022 
