Four Manchester-born eateries have been named as some of the best in the world right nowby the Observer in its esteemed Top 50 list.
Bundobust, Trove, Yakumama and The Landing all feature in the prestigious foodie guide, which lays out the national paper’s favourite food highlights for 2022.
In the list of 50 things we love in the world of food right now, a group of ten critics for the paper pick out the fifty things they love most in the world of food right now – and Manchester has done pretty well.
Newly reborn from the ashes of the pandemic as a family-friendly pizza parlour, former bar-restaurant Common gets an honourable mention in the list for its changing attitude to dining-in.
And Manchester Art Gallery is also given a nod, as the Observer praises ex-Masterchef contestant Adam Leavy for his ” quality sandwiches”.
Keep reading to discover what the critics had to say about the rest.
Tony Naylor highlights Trove bakery’s chorizo sausage roll, calling the search for the definitive roll “a life’s work.” We completely agree.
Trove baker Ruth Gwillim, Naylor writes, is no stranger to “moments of revelation” but her latest creation might just be the most revelatory yet.
She has created a “sausage roll for the ages” – combining chorizo and sausage meat with French butter pastry, its filling peppered with fennel seeds.
“Where most sausage rolls cool and congeal into a stodgy lump, this sings even at room temperature,” he writes ebulliently.
Vegetarian and vegan street food favourites Bundobust also feature prominently, except this time the focus is on its new Manchester brewery restaurant.
Read more:Bundobust has been secretly brewing its own beer in Manchester for eight months
Housed in a 100-year-old Grade II-listed building on Oxford Road, it boasts a custom-built 10-hectolitre facility capable of producing 20,000 pints a month – not to mention a talented head brewer in Dan Hocking, formerly of Uiltje.
Naylor writes: “Good beer is essential to Bundobust: Bradford-born owners Marko Husak and Mayur Patel first bonded over the emerging craft beer scene of the early 2010s.
“Its IPAs and sours became the ideal foil for Patel’s food – meat-free Gujarati family recipes updated for the street-food generation”.
Billed as “offering respite from the restaurant industry’s frothiest excesses”, this Manchester food truck turned restaurant in West Yorkshire is showered in praise.
Operated by Hannah Lovett and Marcelo Sandova, the Latin American-inspired cantina serves a short menu of colourful, meat-free small plates – all designed to share.
Naylor is just as enthusiastic about the space (a 19th-century former Co-Op building in Todmorden, situatedon the border of West Yorkshire and Manchester) as he is the menu, writing:
“Beyond its ornate 19th-century frontage the airy dining room is fairly plain. There are plants. Art. Nothing showy.”
He continues: “The Andean-style crisp potatoes with kalamata olive sauce, smoked paprika oil and pickled peppers, topped with a boiled egg, embodies Yakumama’s imaginative use of vibrant sauces and pickles to create astonishing food.
“An example of what is possible without meat or lots of money.”
Not technically an eatery, more of a kitchen garden, this rooftop allotment opposite Stockport’s Merseyway shopping centre nonetheless still feeds Mancunians – albeit indirectly.
The latest kitchen garden for Where The Light Gets, according to Naylor it was inspired by a 2011 lecture on urban farming held at Manchester international festival and brought to realisation with the help of Manchester Urban Diggers (MUD).
In the summer, the WTLGI team is at the garden daily, uprooting and picking a veritable wealth of produce to create the constantly changing “Landing Plate” as well as coming up with specials, such as a “Stockport saag” made with Landing-grown shisho, spinach and curry leaves.
Naylor writes: “Here, grower Nick Harlow cultivates, for example, numerous chillies, Andean tubers oca and mashua and “the sweetest” poona kheera cucumbers. “It’s 100% exposed, so it’s red hot up there,” says Buckley. “The greenhouse was 20C [in December].”
Throwing in Gaggs from Buckley about growing lemongrass above Ann Summers, he also touches on the more serious point of utilising empty spaces for food production as well as flagging plans to host craft workshops and gardening days to “illustrate what is possible in urban environments.”
Feature image – Trove
A traditional cafe serving retro favouties has opened on the third floor of Affleck’s
A brand-new cafe has opened on the third floor of the iconic Afflecks building, offering an all-day menu of British classics, from breakfast through to closing time.
Serving cafe classics, Third Floor Rising will dish up quality breakfasts with specialities including meat, vegetarian and vegan fry-ups and breakfast rolls, BLT, teas, coffees – basically everything required to kick start the day.
There’s also a solid list of homemade favourites – such as Tommy’s homemade pies, paninis, toasties and filled rolls, alongside Sarah’s tray bakes and cakes.
Third Floor Rising has been brought to Afflecks by husband and wife team Tommy Heaton and Sarah Abell – long-time Afflecks fans who felt that it was the perfect space for their new venture.
With a wealth of experience in hospitality spanning over 20 years, the pair decided now was the time to open their first space and atop one of the city’s most iconic buildings was too good an opportunity to miss.
As one of Manchester’s most famous café spots rises again, the inspiration for the name comes from the book of the same title written by author Hilary Mantel when she worked at Affleck and Brown.
The cafe will be serving breakfast from 10.30am when Afflecks opens, as well as lunch and drinks all day long, designed to refuel hungry shoppers, visitors and traders alike.
The drinks menu includes coffees, smoothies, milkshakes and coolers. All of this will be brought to customers in a relaxed, homespun atmosphere with carefully considered vintage inspired interiors.
From handwritten, daily-changing menus, to original 70s printed wallpaper, owners Tommy and Sarah wanted to emulate their own home and love of all things retro in the surroundings for the city’s new community cafe.
The welcoming space also reflects the amazing light and history within the building with its panoramic windows looking out onto the Northern Quarter. Plants and artwork from fellow Afflecks traders City and Bloom and Egoiste Gallery adorn the space.
Commenting on the launch, Tommy said: “Since we’ve joined we have loved getting to know everyone, from the cleaners to the management to the stall holders and the techs!
“It feels like a family – a family we are proud to be part of. We are excited about the next few years as we plan to serve up hearty, homemade food in one of our favourite places in the world and we hope other people will love it too.”
AJ Martyn, General Manager at Afflecks, added: “We are thrilled to welcome another amazing independent business to the Afflecks community.
“Third Floor Rising is the perfect fit for the cafe space and we think the classic menu will really appeal to our customers. Tommy and Sarah have poured so much into the concept and we’re excited to be supporting them on their journey.”
Feature image – Supplied
Manchester has a stunning new rooftop restaurant as Climat opens its doors
There’s a stunning new rooftop restaurant in Manchester, with more than 250 different wines on the menu and beehives on the roof.
Climat is ready to open in Blackfriars House and has one of the best views in the city, with every table given a front-row seat.
From its eighth floor position, diners will be able to take in the sights of Manchester, including the (currently scaffolded) Town Hall, the ornate rooftop of Barton Arcade, and the spire of St Ann’s Church.
The 100-cover restaurant comes from the same team behind the acclaimed Covino in Chester, with exec chef of Covino and Climat Luke Richardson and head chef Simon Ulph crafting a menu of modern British feasting-size dishes.
The restaurant promises to serve ‘food you want to eat’, geared towards groups of three or more to share – think whole turbot, slow-cooked lamb shoulder, and ex-dairy cuts on the bone.
There’ll be small plates too, and the resurrection of classic vol-au-vents.
Climat’s wine cellar is comprehensive, featuring more than 250 different wines, 40% of which will come from one specific Burgundy vineyard site which has its own microclimate and specific geological conditions.
The highly-anticipated opening aims to be a ‘contemporary, Parisian-style’ addition to Manchester’s restaurant scene.
The star of the show with its decor all centre around that view, from the floor-to-ceiling windows to the spacious outdoor rooftop terrace.
Tables are arranged in one long row along the windows, with an open kitchen on the other side.
Of the menu, exec chef Luke Richardson comments: “We want to have a different signature snack at each restaurant we open. Whilst Covino has the gougère, Climat will have the vol-au-vent.
“The humble gougère will continue to serve Covino, whilst we’ve opted to resurrect the vol-au-vent for Climat, owing to their complete versatility throughout the seasons. They can literally be stuffed with anything. Beef tartare, parfait, truffle and ricotta to name just a few.
“Both myself and Simon Ulph have worked closely together to develop an opening menu we are both super proud of and we think does justice to the building and the surroundings. We believe we offer something completely different to the Manchester restaurant scene and we now can’t wait to officially launch.”
Christopher Laidler, owner of Climat, comments: “After a lot of blood, sweat, and tears (mostly my own), I couldn’t be happier that we’re one step closer to bringing Climat to life with the menu and wine list already things I’m immensely proud of.
“Climat is essentially going to be a place for guests to share our passion for really good food and drink in a relaxed rooftop setting with what I think is one of the best views of Manchester’s skyline.
“We’re well on the way to achieving this; from the look and feel of the restaurant coming together, to the exciting daily changing menu ideas and informal but quietly knowledgeable style of service we have planned.”
Charlotte Wild, head of retail and leisure at Bruntwood Works, comments: “Climat is going to be a fantastic addition to Manchester’s hospitality scene. We’re delighted to welcome such an exciting concept to Blackfriars, our community-minded Pioneering building.
“The restaurant is really coming together now and the menu clearly demonstrates their passion for excellent food and wine. It’s great to see their hard work come to fruition. Roll on December!”