Sat on the banks of the River Irwell, the Lowry hotel has long been a haunt of the stars.
One of the city centre’s only 5-star hotels, it is home to the most exclusive (and expensive) penthouse suite in the city. But today, we’re here to talk about its restaurant offering.
Headed up by chef Dave Ashton, who has worked alongside Aiden Bryne and other prominent chefs in two- and three- rosette restaurants, the 2 AA rosette River restaurant has long held a stellar reputation in the city as a go-to place for special occasion dining.
Following a revamp of its dining space in the autumn of 2019, it’s even more swanky. Gone is the all-white look of days prior, in its place a new design inspired by the hotel’s riverside setting.
Image: The Manc Group
Burnt orange, dusky pink and terracotta tones mix with hues of blue and green, whilst big squishy seats and deep booths provide the ultimate comfort for a long, luxurious lunch or dinner.
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When we visit, it’s a chilly November evening and the daylight is already long gone – meaning that whilst we can’t fully appreciate the floor-to-ceiling windows looking out across the water, we still manage to drink in the twinkling lights of the city as we enter through the bar.
After leaving our heavy coats with the host, we sit down to browse Ashton’s newest offering: The River Restaurant’s autumn menu.
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It’s always a great sign when you look down at a menu and feel overwhelmed by choice – or at least, I think so. And that’s what happens here. There are almost too many tempting-sounding dishes to choose from, leaving me to think that I could quite happily return and polish off the rest of the menu another time.
After deliberating with my dining partner, who agrees we’re spoilt for choice, we settle on starters of miso crab and squab pigeon followed by cured sea trout and an indulgent-sounding ‘surf and turf’ combination.
The agreement we make between us is this: we will share it all, save missing out.
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Image: The Manc Group
Image: The Manc Group
The starters come out swiftly and do not disappoint. My miso crab is served as a terrine, topped with a sort-of red, edible doily. Sandwiched between the two are pieces of pickled lemon, samphire and a lump of slowly-melting lemon sorbet – adding a gorgeous citrus tang that cuts right through the fishiness of the fresh crab.
The squab pigeon, meanwhile, arrives with a hearty helping of truffled foam and screams game season. Rich flavours of pear, hazelnut and artichoke complement the equally-rich pink breast meat and confit leg. A triumph.
Onto the mains, and the star of the show has to be the 6oz fillet steak and Gambaro Rosso prawn dish. Its arrival gives me instant food envy and makes me very glad I’ve already brokered a deal to share.
The steak, cooked as the chef recommends it, comes out pinker-than-pink and soft as butter. Sat on a bed of greens and topped with tiny slivers of crunchy, tangy pickled onion, on the side sits a giant helping of truffle mash and a swirl of red wine garlic puree.
If you’re going for a special occasion, order this. The Sicilian red prawn itself was a bit scrawny, but in every other way, the whole plate is an absolute delight and well worth the £40 price tag.
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My cured sea trout is also a hit. The crab sauce works beautifully with the fillet itself, whilst a healthy dose of sea veg heaped on top adds texture and depth to the plate as a whole.
The only fault I can make here is the crushed squash, which jars texturally – possibly a little undercooked, it is a bit too al dente for me in some places.
Image: The Manc Group
Finishing off with something sweet, I opt for the sticky date cake with caramelised banana, rum and clotted cream ice cream. This proves to be the best part of the meal, the crunchy-sweet topping of the banana together with the soft and sticky fruit sponge proves a heavenly combination.
My partner, meanwhile, chooses the Manjari milk chocolate dessert. Served with malted milk and espresso ice, it comes out in jagged slithers and is equally delightful.
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Our charming server confides that we’ve made an excellent decision – as it turns out, we picked her two favourite desserts.
All in all, there’s very little to fault and much to praise at the new and improved 2 AA Rosette River restaurant.
When I last spoke to chef Ashton he told us that he was gunning for 3 AA Rosettes- and, although he may have missed out on that particular gong this year, it seems like that goal is still very much in sight.
Feature image – The Manc Group.
To view the full autumnal menu, click here.. To make a reservation at the River restaurant at The Lowry, click here.
Food & Drink
Didsbury favourite Rustik adjust plans to close after overwhelming support
Danny Jones
Didsbury favourite Rustik recently announced that they would soon be closing, seemingly for good, after more than a decade, but after a fortunate twist of fate, there looks to be a sliver of hope, and like they could be staying open after all.
The beloved neighbourhood cafe and bar has been a staple of the tight-knit foodie neighbourhood since 2015, but the independent Irish eatery confirmed that they were due to shut down permanently by the end of last month.
Confirmed on Wednesday afternoon, 17 September, the casual Manc restaurant and hangout informed their loyal followers of the unfortunate news.
To no surprise whatsoever, their social media has been awash with condolences, collective sadness and support for the local institution, which has also helped lead to a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel.
Updating their followers via social media on Monday, 13 October, Rustik wrote: “We Need You More Than Ever […] We know it’s been quiet since we closed our doors — and honestly, it’s been a tough time behind the scenes.
“So many of you reached out, checked in, sent kind words, and we’ve felt every bit of that love. Thank you. Truly. When we said goodbye, we weren’t sure what the future looked like. But due to unexpected changes and plans falling through, things have come back around… and now, we’re reopening.
“It’s not easy to say this, but like so many in hospitality right now, it’s tough. We know we’re not alone in this — many small businesses are facing incredibly difficult decisions. But instead of closing the chapter, we’ve decided to give it one more shot. With everything we have.
“So, we’re reopening this Wednesday, 15 October, with a brand new brunch menu and the same Rustik heart you’ve always known. For now, we won’t be open in the evenings — but that might change. What matters most is that our doors will be open again, and we can welcome you back.”
Not only is this obviously brilliant news, but Burton Road favourite is also offering guests a 20% discount off the menu until Halloween (31 Oct) – their way of not only encouraging new customers to come through their doors, but also as a thank you to all their loyal patrons over the years.
Again, the return of late dining and their usual full programme of nighttime events still looks uncertain, but for now, they’ll be “serving coffee and brunch Wednesday to Sunday, 9am–4pm, and hoping to see as many familiar (and new) faces as possible.”
They signed off by adding: “This is a fresh start, but we can’t do it without you. If you’ve ever loved what we do, now is the time we need you most. Your support, your presence, even just sharing this with someone who might pop in – it means everything. With love, gratitude, and a little bit of hope — The Rustik Team.”
This positive turn of events comes just a few weeks after what fans thought was the endgame for the West Dids community cornerstone.
Posting across all of their accounts on 17 September, Rustik wrote: “After an unforgettable 10 years on Burton Road, the time has come to close our doors. It’s hard to believe how far we’ve come — never in a million years did we imagine Rustik would grow into what it became.
Expressing their gratitude after the best part of a decade in the south Manchester suburb, they touched upon the post-COVID recovery period, rising business rates, supply chain costs and many of the same challenges that other hospitality venues have cited as reasons for the initial decision.
“From the chaotic, beautiful brunch shifts to late nights dancing on tables to ‘Wagon Wheel’, pushing through the challenges of COVID and helping our community with meals during hard times— we’ve done it all, together.
We sincerely hope the talk of closing proves to be merely a blip and that this next chapter signals the start of an incredible new era for Rustik, and as for you local foodies, we urge you to meet the further call for support and visit them during this crunch period.
Cult Northern Quarter cafe Federal to give out 1,000 free coffees and pastries when it reopens this weekend
Emily Sergeant
Fancy getting your hands on one of the best cups of coffee in Manchester for free?
Manchester’s number one brunch spot, and the UK’s most popular independent cafe, Federal – which has three locations in the city, as well as soon to open in Leeds – is giving away 1,000 coffees this weekend to mark the reopening of its Northern Quarter site, which has been temporarily closed while undergoing refurbishment.
The Northern Quarter cafe first opened its doors in 2014, and after being open consistently for 10 years and being extremely busy in the process, it was time for a refresh.
The NQ site was known for always having people queuing up to get inside, and with the doors are finally being flung open to welcome customers back this weekend, and with free coffees and pastries on the cards, the queues are set to be resume.
Federal will be giving away free espresso drinks that use its Ozone Federal espresso blend – including lattes, flat whites, cappuccinos, and Batch brew for those who prefer their coffee black.
Federal is giving out 1,000 free coffees and pastries when it reopens in the NQ this weekend / Credit: The Manc Group
The cafe will also debut new autumn weekly specials, starting with a Biscoff Chai Latte from Sunday 18 October, which is described as being the ‘perfect cup of warm indulgent goodness’ for autumn.
Free Lovingly Artisan pastries will also be up for grabs for those super-early birds each morning.
Inside the NQ site following the refurbishment, the new interior has all the familiar Fed feels with a relaxed space filled with reclaimed furniture, plenty of greenery, and comfy banquet seating to create that laid-back and down-to-earth charm Federal is famous for.
Timber details and eye-catching signage bring warmth and personality, and tie in beautifully with the delicious menu of fresh food and drinks.
“We haven’t re-invented the wheel, this is all about making customers feel familiar and comfortable whilst improving the flow of the cafe and overall experience,” commented Federal’s Social Media and Marketing Manager, Emily Ribeiro, ahead of the reopening this weekend.
“We can’t wait to see all our loyal customers again and invite them to come and have a coffee on us and celebrate some of our favourite suppliers, who have supported us from day one.”
Federal’s Northern Quarter cafe, on Nicholas Croft, will officially be reopening this Friday 17 October from 7:30am, and will be giving away free coffees and pastries on each morning of the three-day weekend.
Georgina Pellant -
19th November 2021 
