The Guardian’s food critic Jay Rayner has headed back up north for his latest restaurant review, with his sights set on Manchester’s swankiest new opening, Fenix.
The two-storey restaurant was one of the hottest newcomers of last year, thanks in no small part to its lavish and luxurious interiors.
The modern Greek-Mediterranean concept comes from the same team behind Tattu, and opened on the edge of Spinningfields in mid-November.
Fenix’s much-talked about interior features details like fake flames above the bar, a ceiling covered in golden grasses, and huge stonewashed arches, along with cutting-edge lighting that transforms it from Mykonos beach bar to moonlit Greek restaurant.
Jay Rayner wrote that he would usually ‘hate such places at first sight’ because so much attention to aesthetics can come at the downfall of the food offering – but his review of Fenix was nothing short of glowing.
ADVERTISEMENT
He described the interior as being ‘like the cantina from the original Star Wars, only with added hummus’, and said the wheat ceiling allowed you to ‘imagine yourself either as Russell Crowe in Gladiator or Theresa May in her wild years’.
Rayner’s Guardian review said: “The food here, courtesy of Greek head chef Ippokratis Anagnostelis, is delightful. Yes, it can be mannered. And no, this isn’t the place for taverna classics. But it really is all sorts of delicious and, in its own way, thoroughly comforting.”
ADVERTISEMENT
The ‘moussaka’ at Fenix got Jay Rayner’s approval in his latest Guardian review. Credit: The Manc GroupInside Fenix in Manchester. Credit: The Manc Group
He raved about the moussaka (‘not so much deconstructed as reupholstered’, but ‘it works’); the taramasalata and ‘hot and blistered’ pitta, the sea bass tartare and the roasted aubergine.
Rayner then hailed the seafood orzo as ‘fabulous’, the creme brulee as ‘accomplished’ and heaped praise on the ‘two thumbs thick’ spiced tiger prawns.
He wrote: “Larger dishes include a leg of slow-roasted lamb for four priced at £95. It must be ordered 24 hours ahead. You’re invited to do so when you book, along with the bottles of Laurent-Perrier Rosé Brut at £125. Well, that just sounds like a spanking night out to me. What do you mean, cost-of-living crisis? Never heard of it.
ADVERTISEMENT
Jay Rayner has raved about Fenix in his latest food review for The Guardian. Credit: The Manc GroupInside Fenix’s lavish bar area. Credit: The Manc Group
“Clearly, I have now very much given myself to this place, with its priestesses, fake foliage and hanging wheat.”
He signed off his review writing: “You have to give yourself to Fenix, much as you might to Disneyland or a cruise of the Norwegian fjords or a Soho torture garden. Perhaps you didn’t think this was your scene. But now you’re here it turns out to have a lot to recommend it.
“Yes, some of Fenix is very silly indeed. The cocktail list includes the vodka-based Apollo’s Lemonade. The description explains that Apollo was damn pretty and good at things like archery and a little light soothsaying. “Our alcoholic version of lemonade is equally vibrant.” That’s good enough for me.
“Like a night in that Soho torture garden, eating here will also prove punishing, especially if you rage through the bargain-free wine list. Then again, that 15ft fake olive tree isn’t going to pay for itself and dancing around one of those like you’ve become your very own Greek god can be fun.
“The other customers here this lunchtime have clearly accepted the cost, for this is Manchester suited and booted and that’s a crowd that knows how to have fun. But even if none of that appeals, even if you don’t want to eat on the sunkissed set of Mamma Mia!, do come for the food. It’s terrific.”
ADVERTISEMENT
Fenix has described their glowing review in The Guardian as ‘an incredibly proud moment’ for the team.
They posted today: “They have worked tirelessly to deliver a unique experience combining beautiful surroundings with ‘exceptional’ Greek cuisine served with passion. Seeing their efforts recognised by the esteemed @jayrayner1 is a landmark moment so early in our journey. We are humbled.”
Celebrity chef James Martin closes Manchester restaurant after more than a decade
Daisy Jackson
James Martin Manchester has closed its doors, bringing an end to the chef’s decade-long restaurant partnership with casino Manchester235.
Metropolitan Gaming announced on 1 October that its partnership with James Martin and his team had concluded, with the restaurant operation at the city centre venue ending on the same day.
The partnership dates back to 2012, meaning James Martin Manchester had been part of the Manchester235 experience for more than 14 years.
During that time, the restaurant became an established part of the venue’s food and drink offering, with Metropolitan Gaming describing the collaboration as ‘successful and valued’.
The company also credited James Martin and his team with contributing to Manchester’s wider food and dining scene, as well as providing high-quality dining for Manchester235 guests.
Maxine Gibbons, Venue Director at Manchester235, thanked the chef and his team for their contribution to the venue.
She said: “Our partnership with James Martin and his team has been an important part of Manchester235’s story since 2012.
“We would like to thank James and everyone who has been part of the James Martin Manchester team over the years for their commitment, hard work and the memorable experiences they have created for our guests.”
Gibbons added that the team had made a ‘significant contribution’ to Manchester235’s food and beverage experience and wished James Martin and his colleagues ‘every success for the future’.
The closure will not result in affected employees losing their jobs, with Metropolitan Gaming confirming that any employees impacted by the restaurant’s closure have been retained within the business.
Customers with existing restaurant reservations will also be contacted directly by Manchester235 regarding cancellations.
First look inside Locker and In Hand, a brand-new music venue and gig-friendly food concept at New Century
Lydia Mastrolonardo
There are two fresh new concepts taking over the ground floor of our well-known and loved New Century, serving up a brand new menu of gig-night bites as well as grassroots music events.
Launching side-by-side are Locker, a 450-capacity grassroots live music venue, and In Hand, a food offering that promises ‘gig-friendly’ food like Detroit-style focaccia pizza pies, 24-hour brined chicken tenders, sandos and sides.
Both concepts will launch in sync today, marking a significant new chapter for the restored venue, which has pivoted away from its previous New Century Kitchens food hall concept.
With the previous food traders moving on to fantastic new ventures, this new chapter allows one sole food offering to sit alongside the beloved bar area, keeping simplicity at the forefront of the concept.
The menu is designed for speed and ease, ensuring you can grab a quick bite in between sets at Locker or New Century Hall without missing out on the music, whilst still holding your drink of choice in your other hand. Perfect for keeping the night going, instead of having to leave mid-event to get some food to fuel you.
This no-mess menu is serving up deep pan Detroit-style focaccia pizza slices or 8×10″ full pies, featuring everything from a classic margarita or pepperoni through to a chicken parm, mushroom and truffle or Detroit hot loaded with jalapenos and ‘nduja hot honey. Oh – and every pizza comes with their signature caramelised cheese crust – have we said all of your buzz words yet?
Detroit-style pizzas at In Hand at New CenturyThe main bar at New Century will serve Locker and In HandIn Hand food is designed to be gig-friendly
If it’s more just a bite you’re after, there’s a wide selection of grab and go sides. Our personal favourite were the 24-hour brined, double fried chicken tenders, available in a range of flavours such as lemon pepper, garlic parmesan, ‘nduja hot honey, smokey BBQ and masala mayo.
Though if it’s something more filling you’re seeking, then there’s their delicious selection of sandos, all served with seasoned fries, like the classic chicken sando, prosciutto and ricotta on focaccia, chilli cheese chicken sando and a roast harissa halloumi.
In Hand will also be open during the day, making it the perfect spot for a post work pint, to quench your thirst and refuel after a shopping spree or as a new lunch spot if you work in and around the Northern Quarter, especially with their lunch time deal.
Inside gig venue Locker at New Century. Credit: The Manc Group
The deal consists of any chicken tenders or a quarter Detroit pizza, plus a side and a soft drink, all for just £10 – it would be rude not to.
Matt Harvey, Head of Food and Beverage at New Century, commented: “The menu is built around what people actually want when they’re at a gig, something that tastes great, travels well and doesn’t slow you down.
“We’ve spent a lot of time getting the foundations right, from developing the dough recipe for the Detroit base through to the brining process for the chicken tenders. Every element has been thought about to ensure In Hand is comfort food done properly, and we think people are going to love it.”
Locker and In Hand are both open at New Century in Manchester today.
Daisy Jackson -
22nd January 2024 
