The Guardian’s food critic Jay Rayner has headed back up north for his latest restaurant review, with his sights set on Manchester’s swankiest new opening, Fenix.
The two-storey restaurant was one of the hottest newcomers of last year, thanks in no small part to its lavish and luxurious interiors.
The modern Greek-Mediterranean concept comes from the same team behind Tattu, and opened on the edge of Spinningfields in mid-November.
Fenix’s much-talked about interior features details like fake flames above the bar, a ceiling covered in golden grasses, and huge stonewashed arches, along with cutting-edge lighting that transforms it from Mykonos beach bar to moonlit Greek restaurant.
Jay Rayner wrote that he would usually ‘hate such places at first sight’ because so much attention to aesthetics can come at the downfall of the food offering – but his review of Fenix was nothing short of glowing.
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He described the interior as being ‘like the cantina from the original Star Wars, only with added hummus’, and said the wheat ceiling allowed you to ‘imagine yourself either as Russell Crowe in Gladiator or Theresa May in her wild years’.
Rayner’s Guardian review said: “The food here, courtesy of Greek head chef Ippokratis Anagnostelis, is delightful. Yes, it can be mannered. And no, this isn’t the place for taverna classics. But it really is all sorts of delicious and, in its own way, thoroughly comforting.”
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The ‘moussaka’ at Fenix got Jay Rayner’s approval in his latest Guardian review. Credit: The Manc GroupInside Fenix in Manchester. Credit: The Manc Group
He raved about the moussaka (‘not so much deconstructed as reupholstered’, but ‘it works’); the taramasalata and ‘hot and blistered’ pitta, the sea bass tartare and the roasted aubergine.
Rayner then hailed the seafood orzo as ‘fabulous’, the creme brulee as ‘accomplished’ and heaped praise on the ‘two thumbs thick’ spiced tiger prawns.
He wrote: “Larger dishes include a leg of slow-roasted lamb for four priced at £95. It must be ordered 24 hours ahead. You’re invited to do so when you book, along with the bottles of Laurent-Perrier Rosé Brut at £125. Well, that just sounds like a spanking night out to me. What do you mean, cost-of-living crisis? Never heard of it.
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Jay Rayner has raved about Fenix in his latest food review for The Guardian. Credit: The Manc GroupInside Fenix’s lavish bar area. Credit: The Manc Group
“Clearly, I have now very much given myself to this place, with its priestesses, fake foliage and hanging wheat.”
He signed off his review writing: “You have to give yourself to Fenix, much as you might to Disneyland or a cruise of the Norwegian fjords or a Soho torture garden. Perhaps you didn’t think this was your scene. But now you’re here it turns out to have a lot to recommend it.
“Yes, some of Fenix is very silly indeed. The cocktail list includes the vodka-based Apollo’s Lemonade. The description explains that Apollo was damn pretty and good at things like archery and a little light soothsaying. “Our alcoholic version of lemonade is equally vibrant.” That’s good enough for me.
“Like a night in that Soho torture garden, eating here will also prove punishing, especially if you rage through the bargain-free wine list. Then again, that 15ft fake olive tree isn’t going to pay for itself and dancing around one of those like you’ve become your very own Greek god can be fun.
“The other customers here this lunchtime have clearly accepted the cost, for this is Manchester suited and booted and that’s a crowd that knows how to have fun. But even if none of that appeals, even if you don’t want to eat on the sunkissed set of Mamma Mia!, do come for the food. It’s terrific.”
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Fenix has described their glowing review in The Guardian as ‘an incredibly proud moment’ for the team.
They posted today: “They have worked tirelessly to deliver a unique experience combining beautiful surroundings with ‘exceptional’ Greek cuisine served with passion. Seeing their efforts recognised by the esteemed @jayrayner1 is a landmark moment so early in our journey. We are humbled.”
Popular American fast food franchise Shake Shack is coming to Manchester
Danny Jones
Greater Manchester is getting another big global franchise as Shake Shack is finally set to make its Northern debut.
With so many good burger joints and a million and one great places to grab a good portion of chips in town alone, they’ll have to hit the ground running to fight off the competition.
The well-known transatlantic multinational is nothing short of massive in the States, vying with the likes of In-N-Out Burger, Five Guys, Carl’s Jr. – also eyeing up multiple UK sites over the next few years – Whataburger and Wendy’s, just to name a rather large handful. Oh yeah, and Maccies, of course.
Yanks will debate until the cows come home (pardon the pun) about which is best, and many believe Shake Shack is right up there, so Manchester foodies have every right to be excited. Consider this a belated Thanksgiving contribution.
The New York-founded company already has multiple locations on this side of the pond, such as several in London, which is where we first sampled it for ourselves.
Other venues include Birmingham, Cambridge, Oxford and Cardiff, as well as one inside Gatwick Airport; as for the brand’s first Manchester branch, Shake Shack UK no. 18 will be coming to the borough of Trafford and one of the biggest shopping destinations in the region.
But what sets this burger and milkshake-driven brand apart from the others?
Well, for starters, you could argue they’re not even most famous for their patties, buns or shakes; the first time we ever heard about Shake Shack was regarding their fries – specifically, the crinkle-cut shape and that very American-style cheese sauce.
They have long proved divisive among the masses, but those who love them go NUTS for the stuff, and you’ll find all manner of fakeaway recipes online of people trying to make their best imitation of the side and sauce, specifically.
Put it this way, Colonel’s gravy on KFC chicken is what cheese sauce is on Shake Shack fries. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but fans will stan this scran to no end.
Case and point:
My first time at Shake Shack 👌🏼💚 The cheese fries might be my new hyper fixation 🍟 pic.twitter.com/3HVwAgxRtD
Honestly, you’ll find countless examples of this kind of post on social media…
Richard Franks, Business Director at Shake Shack UK, said: “Manchester’s a city that does things proper; it’s full of heart, graft and great taste. We’re so pumped to be growing Shake Shack across the UK, and to be opening our first Northern Shack at Trafford Centre. We can’t wait to be a part of this city.”
The major mall and North West tourist attraction’s Centre Director, Simon Layton, added: “We’re really excited to welcome Shake Shack’s first Northern restaurant to the Trafford Centre.
“We know our visitors are going to love getting their hands on those iconic ShackBurgers and crinkle-cut fries. It’s a huge moment for the North – and we can’t wait for everyone to experience it with us in 2026.”
Opening in place of the Costa in the Great Hall, the opening of Shake Shack Manchester at the Trafford Centre is scheduled for next March. Exciting times.
Featured Images — bryansjs (via Flickr)/LN9267 (via Wikimedia Commons)
Eats
A new champagne bar, and the UK’s first ‘champagne boutique’, is opening in Manchester
Daisy Jackson
A brand-new ‘champagne boutique’ is opening in Manchester next week, boasting more than 250 different champagnes to our city.
Portfolio will be a new bar and ‘immersive wine experience’, which will have one of the largest and most diverse champagne collections in the UK.
Mancs will be able to order champagne by the glass from just £12.50, along with plenty of accessible bottles.
To kick things off, Portfolio will open with a bar food offering that includes Welsh charcuterie, British cheeses and accoutrements, created by co-founder Julian Pizer, formerly of Another Hand and the Edinburgh Castle.
But later down the line, there’ll be a run, relaxed tasting menu, ranging from a few bites to a full dining experience, obviously paired with the best champagne list in the country.
Inside Portfolio, you’ll be greeted by a striking champagne wall of 100 different bottles, plus a wall of photos from the team’s trips to Champagne in France.
Every drink will be served in exclusive Lehmann glassware imported from Reims, with more than 10 different glass styles and a strict no flutes policy.
There’ll be an open chef’s pass and sommelier station with bar seating, plus a working champagne cellar that will function as a private dining room and event space.
Julian Pizer has created Portfolio with Cameron Foster, founder of Duex Six which specialises in providing exclusive grower champagnes to the UK.
They’ll be joined by Wayne Baxendale as food and beverage director, who has more than 30 years of global wine experience including from Michelin starred restaurants, and Nikolai Kuklenko as general manager, who previously held a role as Head Sommelier at Mana.
Portfolio will be a wine boutique packed with rare grower bottles and vintage prestige cuvées and hopes to ‘strip away the snobbery and make champagne accessible’.
As well as well known names, guests will be able to enjoy rare and highly sought-after cuvées, including Jacques Selosse, Ulysse Collin, Jérôme Prévost, Cédric Bouchard, Larmandier Bernier and Egly Ouriet.
There will also be vintage prestige cuvées from Cristal, Philipponnat, Pommery, Jacquesson, Pierre Peters and Bollinger, some dating back to the 1990s.
As Cameron Foster explains: “We want to strip back the snobbery of Champagne and make it a wine for everyone, whether that’s a quick glass after work, a special celebration, or discovering grower champagne for the first time.”
Portfolio will open on 9 December at 67 Bridge Street, Manchester, with the full restaurant experience launching in February 2026.
Daisy Jackson -
22nd January 2024 
