Canpubs, cafes, restaurants and their patrons be trusted during times of crisis?
By bringing last orders forward to 10pm, the government’s opinion on the matter is clear.
It’s a resounding ‘no’.
COVID is suddenly swarming all over Britain again – and the finger of blame is being pointed squarely at the pubs.
The virus enjoyed a fresh lease of life when the quarantine barriers came down in summer, gleefully trampling over the fragile Test & Trace system which folded at the first sign of pressure.
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Today, the UK is registering its highest case rate since May.
Yet just a few weeks ago, the government was urging the public to drink and dine out in droves – reassuring them all was safe and well with social distancing measures intact.
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Not anymore.
In a spectacular u-turn, it’s been decided that all hospitality in England must shut early from Thursday to halt the spread of COVID – a curfew that could be intact for six months.
COVID has turned hospitality into the black sheep of the economy.
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The food and drink sector has been treated like unruly troublemaker that repeatedly needs scolding, reprimanding and restraining in the current dangerous climate.
You can’t the trust the company it keeps, and if you give it an inch, it’ll take a mile.
This is the government’s attitude, but the sector sees things differently.
Pubs, restaurants and cafes have spent half a year trying desperately hard to tick off an ever-changing COVID-criteria checklist with two hands tied behind their back.
So far, they’ve gritted their teeth whilst spinning plates and redecorating.
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But the new law – shutting at 10pm – seems like it might just be the straw that broke the camel’s back.
Exhausted, depleted and in some cases downright angry, hospitality is beginning to fight back against its ‘scapegoat’ label.
A social media movement – spearheaded by BarChick – is gaining traction as food and drink outlets argue that their industry “deserves better”.
BarChick has praised the fast implementation of new safety measures, “kick-ass teams” who have “pivoted the way they work”, and the “brave owners” of bars in Britain.
Their argument is that hospitality, by and large, is going above and beyond what is required – and is entitled to more respect.
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According to the campaign, less than 5% of new cases have been attributed to the hospitality sector (although it is unclear as to where these stats were obtained).
Martin Greenhow, Managing Director at MOJO – a popular city centre bar in Manchester – called the new curbs “unjust, punitive, illogical and irrational”, claiming there is no “evidence to support the assumption that hospitality is driving infection”.
“Only 35 cases reported in the sector and as of yet no sign of the threatened dramatic upturn in deaths,” said Greenhow.
“The move to curtail the operational hours of our already crippled industry seems unjust and punitive, not to mention illogical and irrational.
“Are people more infectious after 10pm?
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“Hospitality has slaved to work responsibly within the constraints laid out for us and now we are being thrown aside with scant concern for the impact these measures will have on our businesses and the wider economy.”
Carl Morris, a representative at Yard and Coop restaurant in Manchester’s Northern Quarter, reassured the public that the venue was still a safe place to visit, urging customers not to be deterred by the curfew.
“As a hospitality business we are finding all the ever changing restrictions extremely challenging and are urging all customers to continue to support our small independent business,” he said.
“We are also reminding everybody that we are a really safe place to come and enjoy a meal out and drinks with their families and households.”
Tonight (Wednesday 23) is the last time pubs will be permitted to remain open past 22:00 until possibly March – which would mark almost a year to the day they were all shut down.
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Probably the last time this sign means anything for a while…
Open until 4am in Manchester TONIGHT – come and show us some socially distanced love.
There are some small silver linings for hospitality.
So far, there’s been no second national lockdown, and the food/drinks industry can continue to trade.
Indeed, some other sectors have had it even worse.
Take live music for instance.
Musicians, venue operators and festival hosts have been left feeling abandoned since COVID came along – and would likely give anything to swap positions with hospitality right now.
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Some casino staff have been furloughed for so long they’ve probably forgotten the rules of Blackjack, whereas bowling alley workers are also struggling to find their feet again after being closed throughout much of the summer.
The ability to look on the bright side, though, is a necessary trait looking ahead. Hospitality needs to get into the right frame of mind and psych itself up for what is guaranteed to be a true test of mettle this winter.
The Old Wellington and Oyster Bar, pre-COVID
The logic behind the early bell is that closing pubs sooner will result in fewer drunken yobs breaking social distancing rules and prevent people from staying indoors too long – which is what can cause the virus to spread.
Night-time bars will now need to find a way to survive.
Do they open earlier? Do they open on their usual days off? Or do they change the menu to attract more customers during the day?
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Some experts have commended the government’s move as necessary, but others are sceptical – claiming the act will just see a rise in house parties.
Wales has already attempted to combat the prospect of gaff raves by banning the sale of booze in shops after 10pm.
Whether England follow suit remains to be seen.
For now, the government continues to keep a hawk-like eye on hospitality.
Only this time, the industry is glaring back.
Feature
Inside Butter Bird – Ancoats’ hottest new neighbourhood rotisserie with a menu dedicated to butter
Clementine Hall
A new restaurant has opened its doors in Ancoats serving up two of life’s greatest pleasures.
Those two things being chicken and butter. And coincidentally, they go very well together.
Introducing Butter Bird, a new neighbourhood rotisserie restaurant that has taken over the old Counter House site on Blossom Street.
If you’ve been living under a rock or you have a healthy relationship with social media, then you won’t know that rotisserie chicken is very much ‘in’ for 2026.
Images: The Manc Eats
So of course, just like anything, Ancoats is first to hop on that trendy bandwagon.
When simple things are done properly then they’re very satisfying indeed, and that’s exactly what Butter Bird have achieved.
Built around classic spit cooking and time honoured technique, with an impressive Rotisol Millenium rotisserie oven at the heart of the space, the chickens are seasoned and brined in house, then slowly rotated over open heat so the meat self bastes as it cooks.
Images: The Manc Eats
The result? Moreish, crisp, golden skin, succulent meat and deep flavour.
If that doesn’t sound enticing enough, they’ve also got a section of their menu dedicated entirely to their house butters.
Flavoured, complex butters designed to compliment your bird in however you desire.
My personal favourite was the moroccan-spiced Chermoula, but the tarragon with wildflower and mustard was also stellar.
Images: The Manc Eats
Drinks wise they’ve got a great selection of Crémant, chosen to cut through the chicken fat, as well as fun cocktails and decent wines.
Obviously you’ll need some sides to go with your bird which you can order as a quarter or half, and they’ve got everything from rotisserie potatoes which you can douse in chicken gravy to a Caesar salad stuffed with enough croutons it’s probably not classed as a salad anymore.
Butter Bird opens to the public on Thursday 29 January, with a launch offer offering 50% off rotisserie chicken when booked in advance for the first two weeks.
Quiet Corners: Cult and Coffee – the barbershop bar doing butties, beats and bags more
Danny Jones
Every now and again, we stumble upon one of those places that just gives you a great vibe from the moment you step in the door, and Cult & Coffee is one of those places.
Truth be told, we had been in here two or three times before: a couple of times before heading to Old Trafford, when it was packed with both home and away fans, and on a third occasion in the hopes they’d let a young nephew use the loo. They did, by the way (thank you again, guys x).
On all of these visits, we got a good feeling about it – especially from the staff – and in every single instance we said to ourselves, “we really need to go back there soon.”
Well, we finally did just that, and this time it wasn’t just a fleeting visit; we made sure to properly introduce ourselves and see just how much different stuff they had going on.
Partners Jordan and Harriette James are the husband and wife couple behind this jack-of-all-trades treasure trove that deserves a lot more hype than the largely local and cult following they have most weeks. See what we did there?…
In all seriousness, multi-purpose gaff like this can often feel like a bit of a discordant mix of things cobbled together and concepts shoehorned in on a whim – but not this place.
Somehow, it only takes a few minutes to get used to the open-plan space that rolls from casual cafe and remote workspace to barbers, listening bar, and a handy spot to grab a quick bite to eat.
Maybe it’s something about the largely open-plan nature of the hallway-centric room that simply has to flow from one portion into another, or the fact that there’s just an effortlessly laid-back and cool vibe to the entire venue.
Located over in Clippers Quay on the edge of Salford Quays, with their shopfront tucked just behind some residential railing and quite literally on a stairway leading down to the towpath next to the River Irwell, it simultaneously feels like a tad too hidden and yet also like, dare we say it?… A ‘hidden gem’.
That’s certainly the case when you look at their recently expanded menu, which has since gone from predominantly revolving around brews, bakes and the bar offerings, to a fuller spread than ever, including colourful macro-friendly health bowls and delicious, freshly-prepared focaccia sandwiches.
For those who fancy grabbing a coffee whilst getting a haircut, there was already plenty of reason to pop in here, but what Jordan, Harriette and their team have managed to do is turn it into somewhere you can spend the better portion of a day just sat, well, chilling.
In fact, on follow-up visits, we fully intend to order a cuppa and a butty to go, walk down the steps leading down from the door towards the public canalside benches, while we enjoy our dinner (lunch) whilst looking over the water. Preferably on a sunny day, please.
Even if it is a grim day, you already have a slick soundtrack sorted, thanks to their dedicated ‘Cult Sounds’ page, which is even accompanied by regular livestreams.
Barbering, butties, beats and a bar suddenly doesn’t seem so random, does it? Honestly, try Cult & Coffee over in Ordsall for yourselves sometime soon, and you’ll see what we mean.
As for other quiet corners across Greater Manchester that are still criminally unsung, you recommend trying the award-winning Oldham pub that might just be one of the cosiest spots in the whole region.