The pool party had just finished when Katie found the lump.
She’d spent the past few hours partying in Los Angeles – splashing around in sunshine-dappled waters at one of the world’s largest all-female LGBT festivals.
It had been a day to remember, drinking and dancing alongside her fiancé and hundreds of others.
But as she stepped into the shower to cool off, her fingers ran over something raised.
Watching the water circle the drain, Katie double-checked and felt it again.
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Something wasn’t right.
She was a long way from home in Manchester, but Katie knew she needed to get this checked. And quickly.
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By this point, she already knew the warning signs.
***
Bitter winds and warm beer
The Pool Party
Eight years prior to that life-changing bathroom visit in southern California, Katie was at a very different type of party more than 5,000 miles away.
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Before the days of swimming pools, cocktails and techno music of L.A., there were terraced houses, warm lager and bitter winds of Newcastle.
It was 2010 and Katie was a student in the North-East, attending the sort of house party you’ll find happening in almost every student city on any given weekend.
On the surface, it was just another typical uni gathering. But it turned out to be an important one.
This was the night she met Nicola.
Sparks started flying almost immediately, and before the night was up, Nicola asked Katie if she fancied attending another party at her place in the coming days.
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Katie agreed, but it was all a ruse.
“Nobody else showed up,” laughs Katie.
“She ‘honey trapped’ me – and the rest is history!”
Hollywood
The pair quickly fell in love, graduated, moved in together, and even got jobs in the same office – working for a major IT corporation.
On paper, it was all perfect. But something just didn’t feel right.
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“We had a lovely city centre apartment and a car on finance, but we could barely afford our bills,” Katie says.
“It seemed everyone wanted a piece of our income and the ironic part of it all is that we moved to the city to enjoy the nightlife and dining out. We couldn’t afford it once we lived there.
“We were literally living to work.”
The couple flirted with the idea of escaping for a few months, and eventually found themselves consumed by wanderlust.
They’d spend every night staring up at the enormous world map beside their bed, dreaming of exploring the planet together and deciding which places to go.
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To make it happen, they scrimped and saved for months on end, moving into a house-share to cut down on rent expenses, and selling everything they didn’t want to take with them on the plane at car boot sales.
Then, in 2015, they took the plunge. And the adventure began.
***
“You need to cancel your flight”
The Great Wall of China
Katie and Nicola photographed everything the moment they left the UK. And it’s a good job they did.
Without the images, their travels sound too extravagant to be true.
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Sharing breakfast with baby sloths in Costa Rica. Swimming with manatees in Florida. Watched a 3-day sumo wrestling tournament in Tokyo. Riding the world’s longest cable car in Hong Kong. Ice skating in New York City on Christmas Day.
Katie and Nicola seemed to be living in a travel montage from a Hollywood movie (Hollywood being another place they ticked off the list).
Their amazing journey even involved a perfect proposal.
After purchasing a ring in Venice and keeping it stashed away in her luggage until she reached the States, Katie took Nicola to the California beach and revealed the ring at sunset.
Nicola said yes, and when daylight broke a few hours later, the United States legalised same-sex marriage across the country.
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It was cinematic.
Baby sloth in Costa Rica
After a brief return home in March 2016, the pair ventured out into the wild again the following Christmas (2017). They’d caught the travel bug and couldn’t imagine doing anything else.
But that was when the fairytale faltered.
During their second trip around the world, Katie was diagnosed with skin cancer.
“We were due to go to Reykjavik in Iceland to celebrate New Year with some friends,” Katie explains.
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“I was trying on clothes for the trip in a shop when I spotted a dark and very obviously changed mole on my back.”
She decided to get it checked out.
The advice was sobering.
“Cancel your flight,” said the doctor.
“You need a biopsy.”
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Katie and Nicola had to stay put.
“I was devastated and worried,” Katie remembers.
“But after the biopsy, we were allowed to travel while we were waiting for the results. We flew to Stockholm for a few days to take our minds off it.”
At Stockholm Central Station, Katie got the news.
She had a malignant melanoma and required surgery.
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Hurrying back to the UK, Katie got the medical attention she needed, and was relieved to hear she’d “caught it early.”
After a huge sigh of relief, the duo gathered their composure, counted their blessings, dusted themselves down, and went back to what they knew best: Travelling.
This time, they took an epic 4,000 mile road trip to New Orleans for Mardis Gras, crossing Arizona, Texas, New Mexico and parts of Louisiana en route.
Their final destination: Los Angeles.
And the pool party.
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***
“This is my third chance”
Dogsledding in Greenland
“It could just be trauma,” said the doctor in Beverly Hills.
“Leave it for a couple of weeks.”
Katie was having the lump in her breast examined, and the physician seemed to think it could be benign.
Unconvinced, Katie decided she was taking no chances.
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With Nicola in tow, Katie travelled back to Manchester and signed in at the Christie to have more tests.
It turned out to be breast cancer.
“I had surgery to remove the tumor and had an agonising wait for a number of results from the biopsy that lasted around 3 months,” Katie says.
“They found a lesion on my spine and I was tested for bone cancer.
“It was petrifying to think that I might die at 34.”
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The scary news put Katie in a very dark place. But a change in mindset helped to pave the way for a second miraculous recovery.
“After refusing chemo and other conventional treatment, I changed my lifestyle,” Katie says.
“I got into yoga, meditation and herbalism.”
She’s still in that frame of mind today.
“I have never felt better and I count my blessings every single day.
“I am so grateful for a third chance at life.”
After being given the all-clear, Katie and Nicola decided to get out to the Great White North and visit Canada.
But what they didn’t know was that coronavirus was coming.
Just as Katie got out of one set of woods, she found herself locked inside another…
***
“We’ve had no electricity, running water or internet for seven months”
Canada
Moments after Katie and Nicola touched down in Vancouver, the country shut its borders.
They made it into Canada by the “skin of their teeth” in March.
And they’re still there right now.
The original plan had been to do a road trip down to the States, covering the likes of Oregon and California later in the year.
The girls had even bought a camper van with a wood-burning stove inside to stay warm – but all of a sudden, they had nowhere to drive it.
Like almost everyone else on the planet, they’d been told to stay indoors until further notice.
“Our travel insurance couldn’t help us,” says Katie.
“Our families and friends back home were concerned for us but they know that travel is in our hearts and that we’d make this work however we could.”
The first step, of course, was finding some money.
Nicola went out and got herself a Canadian work permit; finding a job in an essential service so the pair could buy food and stay safe.
After looking around for a place to stay, the pair settled on a small mountain town
in British Columbia – around an hour north of Vancouver.
“The real name of the town is Skwxwú7mesh but it’s simplified in English as ‘Squamish’,” Katie explains.
“The town is visually stunning and is a very affluent and desirable area to live.
“Subsequently it’s expensive to rent – and one beds can be in excess of £1500 a month.
“Luckily, we found a nearby non-profit campground on what Canadian’s call ‘Crown land’.
“The campground staff were very understanding of our situation and allowed us to set up there with our camper van with distancing and protective protocols in place.”
This was seven months ago.
In all that time, Katie and Nicola have had no electricity, no running water, and no internet.
“All we have is a plot of land, the rainforest, and ‘pit toilets’ which do not flush,” Katie says.
And the funniest part? They’ve never been happier.
“We have learned to forage wild food, build campfires, hula hoop, play the ukulele, and spent time writing poetry, fiction and music production,” Katie tells us.
“We built an outdoor kitchen powered by propane and protected by tarp… and we had to build [our own] outdoor shower as all gyms and recreation centres were closed at one point.
“We now bathe, drink and wash our dishes using boiled glacial water from the sacred Mamquam river.”
Alice Lake, Canada
For most of us, lockdown has intermittently revolved around Netflix, Zoom, oversleeping and skin-creasingly long hot baths. So, the prospect of being quarantined in a campsite with none of the above may sound nothing short of daunting.
But for Katie and Nicola, it’s been bliss.
“We’re surrounded by rainforest – and being in nature at a time like this has really kept us calm and focused,” Katie says.
“It’s been a blessing being here during the pandemic because we’re able to go on long hikes and visit campsites that are secluded and remote.”
Restrictions in rural Canada are also more flexible, meaning they’ve been able to van it across British Columbia to gorgeous beaches by the Pacific Ocean, national parks, and picturesque mountain towns.
Technically, they’ve been trapped.
But for the first time since recovering from her second cancer scare, Katie feels completely free…
***
“Go slow, enjoy the culture, and live with the locals.”
Frozen Sea, Greenland
Between their sled dog expeditions in Greenland and being sucked away by the current on a Guatemalan river, Katie and Nicola have become something of a trusted voice in the travelling community.
The pair started chronicling their experiences via an online blog a few years back, which eventually morphed into a publication titled Round The World Magazine.
Today, it attracts 50,000 visitors a month – offering advice and guidance for anyone globetrotting on a budget.
“It took around 3 years for the blog to really take off,” Katie tell us.
“We got featured on Travel and Leisure which changed everything and much of our LGBT content is ranking top 10 on Google search!”
The duo also have some words of wisdom for anyone hoping to get out and about when the world eventually reopens, whenever that will be.
“When it’s safe to do so, we would strongly suggest visiting Iceland,” says Katie.
“It’s one of our favourite places in the world and we make sure we go at least once a year.
“The whole country is incredibly unique with its volcanic history and weather worn terrain. It’s like landing on Mars and not only will you see the Northern Lights in winter but you can experience the midnight sun in summer.
“It’s one of the most friendliest places we’ve ever visited and we’re in love with the idea of starting up a hostel retreat there one day.”
According to Katie, you don’t need a huge wallet to see the planet, either.
“You don’t need a huge savings pot to do what we did,” she emphasises.
“You can work for free accommodation all over the world and we have resources on our site where you can find free car hire, free RV rentals and work abroad sites in every country.
“Go slow, enjoy the culture of a place, live with locals, go out of tourist zones, start a blog early on, or sell your images to help support you on your way.”
Shanghai
The pair are coming home for Christmas 2020 – with plans to purchase a camper van so they can safely explore their own homeland.
“We’ll be stocking our bellies on chip butties, crumpets and Yorkshire tea – which is something impossible to find in Canada!” says Katie.
“Then, we’re hoping to eventually go back to Canada to start the permanent residency process.”
As for the wedding, that might still be a few months away.
“We had plans to get married in June 2021 in Los Angeles,” says Katie.
“But we’re not too sure what’s going to happen with the travel restrictions.
“We have our wedding dresses ready and I won’t be surprised with our spontaneity if we wake up one day and say: ‘Let’s do it in Manchester!’”
So, after visiting as many as 36 countries, Katie still might tie the knot in the north-west after all.
Mancs often tend to have a bit of a homing instinct. Even the ones with itchy feet like Katie.
“We always think of our people back home,” she tells us.
“Especially in Manchester. It’s where our hearts will always lie.”
Follow Katie and Nicola’s blog, Round The World Magazine, on Instagram. @roundtheworldmagazine
Feature
Five Manchester artists we’ve been listening to this month | December 2024
Danny Jones
And here we are: it’s officially time for the final round-up of Manchester bands and artists for 2024 and what a year it’s been for tunage.
We started this feature back in January and each month we’ve given you five different acts, be they big, small, unsigned or unsung, new on the scene or veterans that deserve more attention.
Fast forward to December and now we’re ready for our last batch of suggestions for new music from around Greater Manchester that you may or may not have heard yet.
The question is, are you ready? Let’s give it one last spin around the turntables.
New Manchester music you should check out to start the new year
1. Morgan Seatree
Speaking of turntables, it seems only fitting to start with a Manchester-based DJ Morgan Seatree, whose tunes have already queued up at a fair few tunes ready for our New Year’s Eve playlist. Born and bred in 0161, not only has he smashed the likes of The Warehouse Project but his sound is already going global.
His inspirations include Kerri Chandler, Paul Woolford, Disclosure, Larry Heard and more, and his catchy brand of mixes has already attracted attention from other big names in the electronic scene, including Patrick Topping, Folamour, Jamie Jones and more.
Music made for nothing but dancing and good times, his ear for easily recognisable hooks and infectious beats means you’ll only be hearing more of his as time goes on. Our picks to start with include ‘Hit It!’, ‘Good Life’ and his ‘Say My Name’ remix. He’s also responsible for this iconic clip from a Fallowfield flat:
The kind of vibes we're after this #NewYearsEve. 🙌😅
Next up to bat are the truly brilliant Dirty Laces who have been going for a few years now but we still think are criminally underrated on the Manc music scene. Not only do they blend a great mix of American rock and roll influences with 90s and 2000s UK roots, but their latest work looks to be a real evolution.
There have always been proto-punk elements to their sound and wonderful guitar solos, as well as what we would liken to Led Zeppelin, Queens of the Stone Age, Shed Seven, and even hints of Velvet Revolver on tracks like ‘These Days’ – imagine ‘Slither’ mixed with She Builds Quick Machines’.
However, it feels like we’re starting to hear them pulling in a slightly new direction and trying new things; there’s no better example of this than their recent singles, ‘Quiet Space’ and ‘If I Go’, which we’ve had on repeat for a few weeks now. ‘Seeker’, ‘Midnight Mile’ and ‘Old Friend’ are where we’d start though.
Third on our list is the immense throwback that is a young man called Elliot James Reay: the 22-year-old singer-songwriter from Bury but with a sound harkening back to the end of America’s ‘Golden Age’, where pop rolled into rock and vice versa.
Taking inspiration from the likes of Elvis Presley and deep obsessions with Roy Orbison, not only in terms of the music but look and overall style, this up-and-coming solo artist feels like he was born in the wrong era but will happily keep the fight alive with the help of vintage jackets, slicked-back hair and a guitar.
He’s only got a small handful of tunes so far, so it won’t feel too overwhelming to get through his discography either but you can also enjoy a selection of his old world covers including tracks by Orbison, Elvis, Paul Anka and more.
A Manchester artist with a straight out of the American South.
4. Florentenes
Number four of December 2024 is Florentenes from Bolton – well, Westhoughton to be more specific; are they named after the old tea room and bakery in the centre? We couldn’t possibly say, all we know is they’re very a talented group of young lads helping put the town’s music scene on the map.
Their debut EP 14:17 dropped back in November and there’s already a very clear stylistic idea in their heads even at such a young age. Melancholy nonchalant vocals that burst into shrieks and rip-roaring guitars are reminiscent of The Stokes, The Hives, Palaye Royale and even Frank Carter at times, but there are also early Arctic Monkeys drumming as well pacey Surf Curse-esque guitar riffs. There is a lot of different stuff going on, basically.
Again, they’ve only five tunes to get through just yet so this would be a great time to latch onto them before they inevitably start gaining more momentum next year. You don’t write build-ups, breakouts and literal screams like the one lead vocalist Will Smith (not that one) delivers in ‘Glue’ and not go anywhere. Watch this space.
And our last pick of the year goes to local lads Bayboards who are another local outfit that we’re getting very excited about going in 2025, for a couple of reasons. Let us explain…
Maybe it’s just how we process music or some weird serendipity, but we happened to discover these guys not long after hearing the news of Sundara Karma calling it a day and, fortunately for anyone who has been a fan of them, you’ll get a lot of that vibe from this quartet and plenty more range too.
You’ll get notes of Circa Waves and Vistas, as well as plenty of other contemporary British indie bands, not to mention some more shoegazey moments at least in those distorted guitar tones. We’re excited to see where they go next and if it’s anything like ‘Push Against The Blue’, ‘Moving to America’ or ‘Fire and Air’ we’ll be there every step of the way.
One of the most exciting new artists coming out of Manchester at the minute.
And for the last time this year, that really is all she wrote.
We sincerely hope you’ve enjoyed coming along with us on the voyage of discovery and have genuinely cottoned on to new bands and artists from Greater Manchester that you’d never heard of before and perhaps familiarised yourself with a kind of music you never thought you’d enjoy up until now.
It goes without saying that this sort of stuff – discovering and championing local, up-and-coming bands – is the lifeblood of Audio North and genuinely keeps us going all year round.
You best believe we’ll be back with more in 2025 (so long as you’ll have us) and until then, we urge you to go back through previous months and above all else, happy listening!
Featured Images — Em Cole (supplied)/Bayboards (via Facebook)/Press Shot (Facebook)
Feature
Brilliant Boxing Day walks around Greater Manchester
Daisy Jackson
It’s Boxing Day, and for a lot of us, the only requirement of the day is to sort out (eat) the leftovers and enjoy one last day of vegetating in front of the telly… walking is not high on the agenda.
But all that over-indulgence from Christmas Day can start to creep up on you – waistbands straining, head a bit foggy, bank balance definitely suffering from the Christmas Eve pub session.
Without wanting to sound like your nan, sometimes a bit of fresh air is exactly what you need to get yourself put back together again.
Not to mention it can help you to build up an appetite again to dive into that cheeseboard for the sixth time this weekend.
Greater Manchester is blessed with beautiful walks in all directions.
We’ve rounded up a handful of beautiful Boxing Day walks to try out.
There aren’t many places in the UK that look so much like a Christmas postcard as Macclesfield Forest, making it one of our favourite winter walking destinations.
Here, huge conifers dominate the landscape like giant Christmas trees – it’s about as close to an alpine wonderland you can get without travelling all the way to actual mountains.
There are a number of walking trails to follow, from a gently green route all the way to a more challenging red route that takes you deeper into the forest.
Greenbooth Reservoir is one of Greater Manchester’s most underrated beauty spots.
If you tackle a full loop of all three reservoirs, you’ll come across a small waterfall, a stunning view of the Manchester skyline from the dam wall, and paths carved into steep hillsides.
It’s all nestled up in the Naden Valley in Rochdale, just above Norden.
Let’s see how awake your quads are, shall we, with an entirely uphill climb from Ramsbottom village to its magnificent Peel Tower.
The walk’s not too tough if you take it at a slow pace, and it’s well worth it for the views. Trust us.
You can go straight up the hill and straight back down again if you’re not wanting to rack up too many miles, or turn it into a circular and stroll across Holcombe Moor instead (beware – it can get windy up here).
There’s a map of the circular route here and some great pubs in the village to relax in afterwards.
Dovestone Reservoir, Oldham
Dovestone reservoir. Credit: Unsplash @stravekc
Dovestone Reservoir is a beloved gem among many Mancunians – it might be busy on Boxing Day, but thanks to its mostly-wide footpaths and circular route it’s easy enough to have your own space on your walk.
The path around the water is mostly flat and accessible, making it ideal if you’ve still got a few generations’-worth of relatives hanging about.
You can keep going if you’re feeling adventurous, extending your walk to include Greenfield and Yeoman Hey reservoirs, or heading up to Saddleworth moor and the crags above.
You can find more information about Dovestone Reservoirhere.
This is far and away one of the best winter walks you can do locally, especially on a crisp sunny day (which we hope Boxing Day will be).
The water is surrounded by woodland and meadows, and you chuck in a stroll along the banks of the River Mersey while you’re out here.
The lake itself is actually an artificial one, and was flooded after gravel was dug up to build the M60 in the 1970s.
In summer it’s packed with people doing watersports, but in winter it’s a picturesque little local stroll – and as a bonus, you can even get the tram right to the gate.
Reddish Vale, Stockport
Reddish Vale, Credit: Wikimedia Commons
Right then, if you want maximum bang for your buck (as in soaking in as much fresh air and scenery as you can in as short a time as possible), Reddish Vale is the one.
There’s a really gentle loop that starts from the car park and skirts the edge of the bottom pond, also taking in views of the enormous viaduct that looms overhead.
And if you’re after something slightly more involved, you can keep exploring – this urban oasis spans 161 hectares with the River Tame running right through it.
Rivington Pike is a real gem in the North West, just across Bolton’s border with Lancashire, with loads to explore.
There’s a trio of reservoirs at the foot of the hill but most people head upwards, towards the historic tower at the peak, where you can soak in views for miles around.
The Terraced Gardens are well worth exploring too, where you’ll find a hidden Japanese Garden, lakes, waterfalls, bridges, sculptures and caves.
Heaton Park, Manchester
It might not be the most adventurous of Boxing Day walks – Heaton Park is one of Manchester’s most popular and prominent green spaces and one of the largest municipal parks in Europe – but it’s a perfect option for a family-friendly stroll.
The huge park has miles of accessible footpaths which loop around the boating lake, the Grade I-listed Heaton House, and the ‘Temple’, which stands at the highest point in the city of Manchester.
There are also cows and horses wandering about (even when the animal park itself is closed) and the old tramline to check out.
Hollingworth Lake, Littleborough
Credit: The Manc Group
What’s better than a walk where after you’re done you can stop off for a well-deserved friday night feast, fish and chips.
This is an accessible and flat walk suitable for all and if you’ve worked up an appetite there’s an ice cream truck courtesy of Northern sweet-treat greats Grandpa Greene’s on Lake Bank.
Located just a nine minute drive away from Bury town centre, Burrs Country Park is a great chance to be at one with nature while also making sure you’re not too far from home.
This lovely stroll is certainly a-MOO-zing with comforting pub grub at The Brown Cow or nearby ice cream parlour Jersey Girls’ – we may have a little ice cream obsession…
Featuring some a vast green space and some of the most intricately landscaped paths and patterns, Peel Park is like stepping into a mini Bridgerton inspired garden, all that’s missing is keys to your own castle (We wish).
Another Salford beauty spot is just a 20 minute walk away but if the conversation is flowing the time will fly by.
Kersal Wetlands is a circular route that offers visitors the chance to see some cute feathered friends, mainly ducks, while burning off some of yesterday’ Christmas treats.
Both these walks are flat making them accessible for all and are ideal for anyone with a pram or people who may struggle with strenuous walks.
A Didsbury gem, Fletcher Moss Park is a 15 minute tram ride away from Manchester city centre and just under 15 minute walk from Didsbury Village tram stop.
This is more than a park, it’s a hidden oasis with well-maintained and lush garden spaces to a fascinating rock garden that’s simply awe-inspiring.
Grab a coffee or hot chocolate from the retro food and beverages truck and take a minute to appreciate this quiet spot before making your return to the usual hustle and bustle.
Millennium Walkway, New Mills
Torrs Millennium Walkway. Credit: Getlostmcr
Ever wanted to ‘hover above a huge gorge’while getting all your steps in? Well this Peak District town has got you covered.
Situated directly next to the River Sett, the impressive 175 yard walkway can be incorporated into various walking trails and routes that surround the area.
New Mills has it all, whether you’re after a walk that admires some grand architecture in the shape of the impressive railway arches, or the lovely forest trails and greenery, there’s something for every type of walker.
The Manc -
20th October 2020 
