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The Manc -
6th January 2020
The Manc -
6th January 2020 Eats
First Look | Grué Pastry – Alty’s real introduction to ‘entremet’, a.k.a one of our new foodie obsessions
Danny Jones
We might have a new sweet treat obsession, and it’s all Grué Pastry’s lovely fault: the small but pretty new pâtisserie and café over in Altrincham.
Located just off the busy Stamford Quarter, you’ll find Grué’s stylish little shop and already plenty of nosy passersby being seduced in by its pristine white counter.
While they do more familiar traditional desserts like tarts, cookies and tiramisu, their signature item is the wide range of ‘entremets’.
Even tinier than the venue, but packed full of different fillings, textures and layers (SO many layers), these picture-perfect treats almost look too stunning to eat, but of course, we did.
It’s not just a shiny little chocolate, nor is it merely a posh miniature cake with some clever decorations – this is quite literally an art form, and it takes time and precision – lots of it, in fact.
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Requiring plenty of technique and patience, anyone who has the talent and persistence to pursue this very specific genre of pastry has our eternal admiration.
A rather painstaking process, split over a number of days, each carefully designed and layered entremet is a real labour of love.
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For instance, not only is everything made from scratch right down to the most minute detail possible, but the inserts have to be mixed, assembled, frozen and then allowed to fully set before any of the finishing touches can be put on.
We’ve seen these kinds of ‘fake fruits’ and cakes with surprise interiors before, but nothing as delicate and nuanced as these.
Co-owner Wissam Jedar joked that they can’t exactly grow their own pistachios, but they can flavour and roast them themselves, control every how much sugar, spice, and everything nice goes into these perfect few bites.
He also told us about how many people have been surprised by just how filling these things are.
They’re not just a small mouthful or two, as some people expect; the various considered and contrasting layers of rich and varied textures inside an entremet are like biting into something entirely new each time, especially when the appearance can often be intentionally deceptive.
It’s also impressive how many of these aren’t as naughty calorie-wise as you might expect.
They rely almost entirely on all-natural sugars only, and the flavours come through fresh, clean, not too sweet and often super sharp. Picture biting into what you think is ‘obviously’ lemon dessert in a light chocolate shell shaped like an actual lemon, only to taste fresh, chilled and tart apple with fragrant mint…
Are you kidding? Incroyable.
But this is just the start. Wissam also told us that both he and his partner, Farah Bioche, have to try their hardest not just to create consistently uniform entremets, but also not to let their imaginations run too wild and come up with concoctions as crazy as some of those they think up.
He says that Farah, in particular – the master baker behind their incredible workshop in Salford and the in-house bakery in their new Alty kitchen – has some seriously BIG ideas, but they’re trying to drip feed and nail them before fully introducing them to the menu.
Another example of this is when it comes to the hot drinks menu. There’s a simple but classic coffee menu too – if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, right? – but they’re also planning to add coffees with special meringue and even tiramisu toppers. Yum.
With Wissam’s sister running the social media, word of mouth spreading fast, and locals quickly catching on to the buzz behind this new opening, we reckon it won’t be long before you see this place all over your timelines.
They’ve also noted that despite raising a few eyebrows over price points at first, once someone has tried one (however speculatively), it usually isn’t too long before they come back to hold their hands up and sample another one.
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So, if you’ve a bit of a sweet tooth but don’t want to be left feeling like you’ve overindulged in something slightly too sickly, trying an entremet from Grué in Altrincham town centre might just be your ticket.
Read more:
- Layr MCR: the tiny tiramisu hatch that just opened in Ancoats
- TWO Greater Manchester restaurants awarded prestigious Michelin Bib Gourmands
- A restaurant in Manchester is hosting a bottomless carbonara night
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Featured Images — The Manc Group
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TWO Greater Manchester restaurants awarded prestigious Michelin Bib Gourmands
Daisy Jackson
Two restaurants in Greater Manchester have been presented with one of the most prestigious accolades in hospitality – a Michelin Bib Gourmand.
Both Erst in Ancoats and Cantaloupe in Stockport have been awarded the distinction, alongside Almanac in Glossop (technically just outside the region, but close enough).
The new additions bring our region’s total to five Bib Gourmands in total, joining El Gato Negro, Higher Ground, and The Sparrows.
Michelin Bib Gourmand recognises ‘restaurants that serve high-quality food at great value’ and are often much more accessible than the Michelin Star selections.
The news of the extra additions comes ahead of the Michelin Guide ceremony, where the ultimate accolade of the Michelin Stars will be awarded.
Michelin inspectors said that Erst is ‘inch perfect’ and a ‘great fit’ for the local dining scene.
They wrote: “A restaurant that feels inch perfect for 2026, Erst combines a natural wine bar with small plates and stripped-back industrial design.
“It’s a great fit for the Manchester dining scene and is another success for the city after receiving several other accolades in recent years.
“Bold flavours burst out of every dish, with the signature topped flatbreads being just one highlight.”
As for Cantaloupe in Stockport, the guide pointed out that the North West has a glut of wine bars and small plates restaurants, but praised this one in particular for its ‘welcome simplicity’.
They wrote: “Another wine bar and restaurant designed for sharing – anyone living in northwest England is certainly spoilt for choice.
“It’s Stockport’s turn this time, with Cantaloupe offering locals and visitors alike a daily changing menu packed with bright Mediterranean flavours and a welcome simplicity. The chefs know when to hold back and their dishes are all the better for it.”
Addressing their win, Cantaloupe wrote: “Well, wow, what fantastic news. Today we’ve discovered we’ve been awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand. We’re thrilled and are grateful to all our staff for making it happen.
“Big thanks to all our guests too for spending their hard earned money and time with us.”
And of Almanac, the Michelin Guide said: “One of three new Bib Gourmands in and around Manchester this year, Almanac has revealed itself as a gem of Glossop High Street.
“Operating as both a bar and restaurant – look out for the concise but well-curated wine list – it’s got the kind of welcoming feel that makes you want to come back again and again. The cooking is traditional and proud of it; order the mince on dripping toast for evidence.”
Read more
- A restaurant in Manchester is hosting a bottomless carbonara night
- Beloved Northern Quarter restaurant TNQ announces shock closure after two decades
- All the Greater Manchester restaurants included in the Michelin Guide
Featured image: The Manc Group
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