Guardian food critic Jay Rayner has been in Salford checking out the (relatively) newly-reopened Black Friar pub, brought back to life in spectacular fashion following two decades of closure.
A glowing review, published this weekend, showers the pub with praise – with Rayner ultimately concluding that he’d be ‘rather chuffed’ if the Black Friar was his local.
With former 20 Stories chef Ben Chaplin at the helm, when it first threw open its doors this summer the Black Friar initially offered two menus – a ‘pub classics’ menu and a selection of more ‘fancy’ restaurant dishes.
Image: The Black Friar Salford
However, rather conveniently, the day of Rayner’s visit also happens to be the day the team decided to merge them into one, leaving him to comment: “don’t therefore expect the food to be confined to essence of British pub.”
“What you now get is a hybrid. There are pies and terrines and fish and chips from the boozer side of the ledger, and altogether grander things involving truffles and champagne from the fat-walleted end.”
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He does still take a good-natured swipe at some of the prices, mind.
That ‘fat-walleted’ comment, a reference in part to the residents above “working at the very cutting edge of modern media communications, or whatever it is the denizens of these tidy apartments do”, leads him to describe a few dish prices as either ‘brave’ or ‘enthusiastic’.
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Image: The Black Friar
Still, for the most part, he’s on-side, stating: “When I get on to those prices some of you may wish to start curling your noses like the Catherine Tate characters Janice and Ray while shouting, “And this! In Salford! The dirty robbing bastards.”
“Get it out of your system now. […] What matters is that the cooking is big and bullish and, for the most part, on point.”
He heaps praise on the pub’s daily rotation of pies, proclaiming: “the pie liberationists will be pleased to know that it is very much a single item, clad from top to toe in crumbly, flaky puff.
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“Pie purists will agree that if you can’t throw it across a room with one hand, it’s not a pie. This is a pie.”
Image: The Black Friar
Adding ‘obviously sipping gravy should be a thing’, a fact we couldn’t possibly agree with any more enthusiastically, despite his enjoyment he can’t help but point out that a similar creation in London’s The Windmill in Mayfair still comes in at a pound cheaper.
“As Janice and Ray might point out, we really are on the edge of a dual carriageway in Salford,” he quips.
Elsewhere, he waxes lyrical about a charming plate of ‘big fat scallops’ and a boar and pheasant terrine served with warm brioche and chutney, stating: “If you’re going to pay £10 for a terrine, you want it to look like this.”
Image: The Black Friar
All in all, it seems the visit is a hit, with Rayner proclaiming, “This is serious cookery: both profoundly beautiful and profoundly eatable.”
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He’s got great things to say about the dessert menu, which he notes features all the ‘much-loved usual suspects’, calling a beautifully made bitter orange parfait ‘a gift to marmalade lovers everywhere’.
Read more: The stunning reservoir walk near Manchester with giant ‘plugholes’
His only real critique, in truth, is for a dish of turbot with smoked ell choucroute, champagne velouté and caviar -described as “a brave £32.”
But even this, he concedes, is a ‘very good dish indeed fighting to get out from underneath all this overkill’ – adding that a spoonful of caviar is ‘more symbol of northwestern largesse than vital ingredient’.
Image: The Black Friar
The Black Friar is remarkably chuffed to have had the esteemed critic down for a visit, sharing the review to its Facebook page with the caption: “The Blackfriar has made the pages of The Guardian and we couldn’t be prouder.
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“Thanks to Jay Rayner for paying us a visit and a big thanks to our team and customers. Without their hard work and support over the last 20 weeks what we have achieved wouldn’t have been possible. We love you all.”
Feature image – The Black Friar
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Oldham Athletic’s next game postponed amid red weather warnings
Danny Jones
Oldham Athletic FC’s next game has been postponed amid red weather warnings, with a frozen pitch having already set in.
We suspect they won’t be the only ones either…
Oldham Athletic were set to take on Notts County FC at home this weekend, with the upcoming fixture set for a 3pm kick-off on Saturday, 10 January, but the state of the Boundary Park stadium’s playing surface has already been declared unfit for use.
Informing the fans of the unfortunate decision, the rescheduled date and time for the match remain yet to be confirmed.
Saturday's home fixture against Notts County has been postponed due to a frozen pitch. #oafc
Addressing supporters online, OAFC wrote: “An inspection took place on Thursday afternoon with the pitch frozen following persistent freezing temperatures since our last home game on New Year’s Day and further adverse weather forecast.
“The inspection was called due to persistent freezing temperatures and in anticipation of further adverse weather between now and kick-off. Tickets will remain valid for the rearranged date, and refunds can be claimed after the new date is confirmed.”
As for Notts County, they have also updated their fans on social media.
They have assured that “tickets purchased for this fixture will [also] be valid for the rearranged date” and that “supporters who require a refund will be able to do so after the date for the rearranged fixture is announced.”
Postponement comes amid parts of Oldham, Greater Manchester and other areas across the country being hit with severe weather warnings, which have now been upgraded from an initial yellow rating.
2026’s first named storm, the weather event dubbed by Goretti by the French meteorological service, is set to bring further frosty conditions and blustery winds to us Brits.
The UK received its first snowfall of the year earlier this month, but this next pattern of cold air is set to see even more arrive, with the forecast potentially running into next week.
As for the Latics, the 15th-placed League Two team will have to wait until their ground thaws out to try and make up ground between them and the play-off spots.
Worth keeping an eye on the Met Office if you were planning a trip to the footy over the next few days.
Greater Manchester urged to ‘check before you travel’ as Storm Goretti sets in tonight
Emily Sergeant
People in Greater Manchester are being urged to check before they travel as Storm Goretti prepares to bring chaos this evening.
In case you weren’t aware, yellow weather warnings for snow have been put in place for parts of Greater Manchester – including Rochdale, Oldham, Tameside, and Stockport – from 5pm this evening until around midday tomorrow, and additional amber warnings are even in place from 8pm tonight for some neighbouring areas like Derbyshire and Yorkshire.
As a result, Transport for Greater Manchester (TfGM), is understandably warning locals that there could be disruption to journeys this evening, including by rail, trams, buses, and on the roads.
Trams on the Oldham, Rochdale, and Ashton lines are most likely to be disrupted by the weather, as are buses in the north and east of the region, TfGM has warned, and due to the expected impact, no trains will run on the following routes from 6pm this evening:
New Mills Central – Sheffield (no trains between Manchester & Sheffield)
Hazel Grove – Buxton
Guide Bridge – Glossop/Hadfield
🌨️ Storm Goretti will hit parts of Greater Manchester from 5pm tonight to midday tomorrow [8 and 9 January].
If you're making a journey, please check before you travel to see if your route is impacted and take extra care when travelling.
Train ticket acceptance will be in place on the 237 and 341 bus services tonight and tomorrow to help passengers get to where they need to be, although disruption could be on the cards here too, once again.
All train routes are planned to reopen after midnight on Saturday morning.
Interchanges, platforms, and crossings across the region are being treated with grit and anti-icing measures to make sure they are safe to use, and TfGM has confirmed that ‘ice breaker’ trams are also ready to be deployed to keep overhead lines clear of ice so trams can keep moving.
For those driving this evening, TfGM is also urging people to take extra time and make sure you are driving ‘appropriately’ for the conditions.
Greater Manchester is urged to check ‘before you travel’ as Storm Goretti sets in / Credit: rawpixel
Speaking ahead of Storm Goretti’s arrival, Danny Vaughan, who is TfGM’s Chief Network Officer, said: “We are expecting Storm Goretti to hit Greater Manchester as we head into the evening peak travel time and we are urging everyone to check their plans before they travel, leave extra time and if possible to consider if they can make their journey before 5pm before the storm hits.
“Working with our partners and operators we are ready to respond to the storm and help to keep Greater Manchester moving.”
He also warned commuters that there may also ‘be an impact on journeys’ tomorrow morning, so if you are planning to travel, then it’s advised to check before you do so.
Georgina Pellant -
13th December 2021 
