The Guardian’s food critic Jay Rayner has headed back up north for his latest restaurant review, with his sights set on Manchester’s swankiest new opening, Fenix.
The two-storey restaurant was one of the hottest newcomers of last year, thanks in no small part to its lavish and luxurious interiors.
The modern Greek-Mediterranean concept comes from the same team behind Tattu, and opened on the edge of Spinningfields in mid-November.
Fenix’s much-talked about interior features details like fake flames above the bar, a ceiling covered in golden grasses, and huge stonewashed arches, along with cutting-edge lighting that transforms it from Mykonos beach bar to moonlit Greek restaurant.
Jay Rayner wrote that he would usually ‘hate such places at first sight’ because so much attention to aesthetics can come at the downfall of the food offering – but his review of Fenix was nothing short of glowing.
ADVERTISEMENT
He described the interior as being ‘like the cantina from the original Star Wars, only with added hummus’, and said the wheat ceiling allowed you to ‘imagine yourself either as Russell Crowe in Gladiator or Theresa May in her wild years’.
Rayner’s Guardian review said: “The food here, courtesy of Greek head chef Ippokratis Anagnostelis, is delightful. Yes, it can be mannered. And no, this isn’t the place for taverna classics. But it really is all sorts of delicious and, in its own way, thoroughly comforting.”
ADVERTISEMENT
The ‘moussaka’ at Fenix got Jay Rayner’s approval in his latest Guardian review. Credit: The Manc GroupInside Fenix in Manchester. Credit: The Manc Group
He raved about the moussaka (‘not so much deconstructed as reupholstered’, but ‘it works’); the taramasalata and ‘hot and blistered’ pitta, the sea bass tartare and the roasted aubergine.
Rayner then hailed the seafood orzo as ‘fabulous’, the creme brulee as ‘accomplished’ and heaped praise on the ‘two thumbs thick’ spiced tiger prawns.
He wrote: “Larger dishes include a leg of slow-roasted lamb for four priced at £95. It must be ordered 24 hours ahead. You’re invited to do so when you book, along with the bottles of Laurent-Perrier Rosé Brut at £125. Well, that just sounds like a spanking night out to me. What do you mean, cost-of-living crisis? Never heard of it.
ADVERTISEMENT
Jay Rayner has raved about Fenix in his latest food review for The Guardian. Credit: The Manc GroupInside Fenix’s lavish bar area. Credit: The Manc Group
“Clearly, I have now very much given myself to this place, with its priestesses, fake foliage and hanging wheat.”
He signed off his review writing: “You have to give yourself to Fenix, much as you might to Disneyland or a cruise of the Norwegian fjords or a Soho torture garden. Perhaps you didn’t think this was your scene. But now you’re here it turns out to have a lot to recommend it.
“Yes, some of Fenix is very silly indeed. The cocktail list includes the vodka-based Apollo’s Lemonade. The description explains that Apollo was damn pretty and good at things like archery and a little light soothsaying. “Our alcoholic version of lemonade is equally vibrant.” That’s good enough for me.
“Like a night in that Soho torture garden, eating here will also prove punishing, especially if you rage through the bargain-free wine list. Then again, that 15ft fake olive tree isn’t going to pay for itself and dancing around one of those like you’ve become your very own Greek god can be fun.
“The other customers here this lunchtime have clearly accepted the cost, for this is Manchester suited and booted and that’s a crowd that knows how to have fun. But even if none of that appeals, even if you don’t want to eat on the sunkissed set of Mamma Mia!, do come for the food. It’s terrific.”
ADVERTISEMENT
Fenix has described their glowing review in The Guardian as ‘an incredibly proud moment’ for the team.
They posted today: “They have worked tirelessly to deliver a unique experience combining beautiful surroundings with ‘exceptional’ Greek cuisine served with passion. Seeing their efforts recognised by the esteemed @jayrayner1 is a landmark moment so early in our journey. We are humbled.”
The beautiful new (now parrot-less) Mediterranean restaurant on the banks of the River Irwell
Daisy Jackson
It might have first made headlines because of Rio the parrot, but now Gardens’ controversial feathered resident has been rehomed, the spotlight is firmly back where it belongs – on the food.
Gardens is a striking new waterside restaurant and lounge overlooking the River Irwell, with enormous windows taking in views of the water and Manchester Cathedral.
Greater Manchester has historically not been very good about making the most of its waterways, with areas like Ancoats Marina and Salford Quays now leading a new charge, so it’s refreshing to see somewhere making the most of the Irwell – even if there’s still more chance of seeing a plastic bag floating past than anything more scenic.
With its towering ceilings and stylish interiors, Gardens has quickly become one of Salford’s most eye-catching new openings, promising hearty Mediterranean grills, shisha, and great mocktails.
And now there’s another reason to visit, as the venue has launched a brand new Lebanese-inspired brunch menu.
Expect authentic dishes including fluffy omelettes, hearty foul (slow-cooked fava beans), prawn fatteh (layers of crisp pitta, tahini yoghurt, chickpeas, and prawns), shakshuka, and fresh halloumi tomato salad, alongside plenty of other Mediterranean favourites.
The brand-new brunch menu joins the substantial menu of grilled mains, with dishes like mixed grills, slow-cooked lamb shank that falls off the bone, and roast chicken.
A spread of brunch dishes at GardensFruit platter, cakes and coffees at GardensFeta, tomato and spinach omelette; chickpeas in tahini yoghurtPrawn fatteh and shakshukahGardens seen across the River IrwellThe beautiful waterside locationMixed grill dishes at GardensSteak in a homemade herb sauce
And you’ll find plenty of other dishes like fattoush salad, hummus, and flatbreads.
Gardens is split into two areas, with the archway overlooking Greengate Square home to the cafe for brunches and matchas, while the main riverside lounge comes alive for socialising, shisha, and mocktails.
While Gardens may have become known for reasons beyond the menu when it first opened, its riverside location, stylish interiors and generous Mediterranean offering make it one of the most impressive new additions to Salford’s dining scene.
If you’re after somewhere new for a weekend brunch or an evening meal by the water, this could be worth adding to your list.
Beloved local restaurant passionately tears apart burglars after ‘hurtful and disappointing’ break-in
Daisy Jackson
A local Manchester restaurant has found itself the victim of a break-in, with staff wages and other goods stolen – and they’ve not exactly held back in their statement to the burglars.
The Thirsty Korean, a hugely popular name over in Chorlton, has asked customers to ‘teach them how to swear in English’ so they can adequately express their disappointment and disgust.
Owner Eunji Noh said in a passionate statement that ‘bad karma comes as well as good karma’.
She wrote: “What you did was that you fully disrespected us that we put our love, passion, effort and time to do something meaningful and great.
“We do not deserve that. I wish, you will be deserved of what you did and I hope, that it will hurt you and your life.”
The Thirsty Korean opened last year in a new spot on Wilbraham Road, serving its legendary and authentic Korean dishes like fried chicken, tteokbokki, and Korean pancakes.
Sharing CCTV images of the burglars in the restaurant, Eunji added that she hopes they will ‘one day become someone doing something right’.
She said: “Hating someone is consuming so much negative energy, therefore I really do not like to say such and it hurts me too.
“However words have a power. So I leave the message that, in any case you would ever read. You will have many bad things happening to you and you will have many bad days and I wish this bad karma will chase to you soon.”
The Thirsty Korean’s brunch spreadCheesy Ttekbokki noodles
She also wrote: “What you stole from the thirsty korean last night was paying our hard working staff wages, paying goods and supplies and our maintenance for the restaurant which assures us living tomorrow.
“It is truly hurtful and disappointing to know that there were people looking for the opportunity to steal someone’s belonging that I personally have never imagined to do by myself stealing someone’s possession and hovering and looking for a spot during the night with this bad intention.”
Addressing customers, she assured people that The Thirsty Korean will be back open for service from Wednesday.
Eunji signed off: “Eventually we all know that everything will be fine again. Spring has been always coming after winter ends.”
Daisy Jackson -
22nd January 2024 
