The Guardian’s food critic Jay Rayner has headed back up north for his latest restaurant review, with his sights set on Manchester’s swankiest new opening, Fenix.
The two-storey restaurant was one of the hottest newcomers of last year, thanks in no small part to its lavish and luxurious interiors.
The modern Greek-Mediterranean concept comes from the same team behind Tattu, and opened on the edge of Spinningfields in mid-November.
Fenix’s much-talked about interior features details like fake flames above the bar, a ceiling covered in golden grasses, and huge stonewashed arches, along with cutting-edge lighting that transforms it from Mykonos beach bar to moonlit Greek restaurant.
Jay Rayner wrote that he would usually ‘hate such places at first sight’ because so much attention to aesthetics can come at the downfall of the food offering – but his review of Fenix was nothing short of glowing.
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He described the interior as being ‘like the cantina from the original Star Wars, only with added hummus’, and said the wheat ceiling allowed you to ‘imagine yourself either as Russell Crowe in Gladiator or Theresa May in her wild years’.
Rayner’s Guardian review said: “The food here, courtesy of Greek head chef Ippokratis Anagnostelis, is delightful. Yes, it can be mannered. And no, this isn’t the place for taverna classics. But it really is all sorts of delicious and, in its own way, thoroughly comforting.”
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The ‘moussaka’ at Fenix got Jay Rayner’s approval in his latest Guardian review. Credit: The Manc GroupInside Fenix in Manchester. Credit: The Manc Group
He raved about the moussaka (‘not so much deconstructed as reupholstered’, but ‘it works’); the taramasalata and ‘hot and blistered’ pitta, the sea bass tartare and the roasted aubergine.
Rayner then hailed the seafood orzo as ‘fabulous’, the creme brulee as ‘accomplished’ and heaped praise on the ‘two thumbs thick’ spiced tiger prawns.
He wrote: “Larger dishes include a leg of slow-roasted lamb for four priced at £95. It must be ordered 24 hours ahead. You’re invited to do so when you book, along with the bottles of Laurent-Perrier Rosé Brut at £125. Well, that just sounds like a spanking night out to me. What do you mean, cost-of-living crisis? Never heard of it.
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Jay Rayner has raved about Fenix in his latest food review for The Guardian. Credit: The Manc GroupInside Fenix’s lavish bar area. Credit: The Manc Group
“Clearly, I have now very much given myself to this place, with its priestesses, fake foliage and hanging wheat.”
He signed off his review writing: “You have to give yourself to Fenix, much as you might to Disneyland or a cruise of the Norwegian fjords or a Soho torture garden. Perhaps you didn’t think this was your scene. But now you’re here it turns out to have a lot to recommend it.
“Yes, some of Fenix is very silly indeed. The cocktail list includes the vodka-based Apollo’s Lemonade. The description explains that Apollo was damn pretty and good at things like archery and a little light soothsaying. “Our alcoholic version of lemonade is equally vibrant.” That’s good enough for me.
“Like a night in that Soho torture garden, eating here will also prove punishing, especially if you rage through the bargain-free wine list. Then again, that 15ft fake olive tree isn’t going to pay for itself and dancing around one of those like you’ve become your very own Greek god can be fun.
“The other customers here this lunchtime have clearly accepted the cost, for this is Manchester suited and booted and that’s a crowd that knows how to have fun. But even if none of that appeals, even if you don’t want to eat on the sunkissed set of Mamma Mia!, do come for the food. It’s terrific.”
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Fenix has described their glowing review in The Guardian as ‘an incredibly proud moment’ for the team.
They posted today: “They have worked tirelessly to deliver a unique experience combining beautiful surroundings with ‘exceptional’ Greek cuisine served with passion. Seeing their efforts recognised by the esteemed @jayrayner1 is a landmark moment so early in our journey. We are humbled.”
A huge festival dedicated to tequila and mezcal is coming to Manchester this month
Daisy Jackson
Manchester’s first-ever Mezcal and Tequila Festival is taking place this month, filling Manchester Cathedral with tastings, masterclasses, cocktails and street food.
The massive event will see the Grade I-listed building transformed into an agave spirits tasting floor, featuring more than 100 varieties of premium tequilas and mezcals from some of Mexico’s best producers including El Jimador, Ojo de Tigre, El Sueno, Los Arcos, Del Maguey, Cazcabel, Komos, Nixta, Tapatio, El Tequileno, Tiempo and many more.
Festival-goers will be able to gain exclusive insights into the craftsmanship behind these spirits, sampling (responsibly, of course) from dozens of stands.
All samples, plus a limited-edition clay tasting copita, will be included in the ticket price – there’s no token system here and no extra charges for samples.
The new Mexican-inspired drinks festival only debuted in Glasgow back in Spring 2023 but it unsurprisingly went down an absolute storm – after all, what’s not to like a big festival full of booze?
Bartenders will stir up cocktails at the bespoke cocktail bar while the crowds are kept fed by delicious street food, including Mexican-inspired Taco Or Don’t, previously featured at the British Streetfood Awards.
And it’d be remiss of you to leave the festival empty-handed when you can take a taste of Mexico home from the exclusive bottle shop provided by Drinkmonger on site (with discount tokens included in the ticket price).
A tequila and mezcal festival is heading on Manchester. Credit: Supplied
Colin Campbell, one of Copita’s co-founders said: “We’re really excited to be bringing Copita to Manchester. It’s gone down brilliantly in Glasgow the last two years so we felt now was the right time to take it on the road and we couldn’t think of a better place than Manchester to head to next!
“It’s a really easy-going event with a great atmosphere, lots of local street food, shopping and music, so whether you’re an aficionado or a casual sipper we’re confident you’ll have a great time.”
The Copita Mezcal and Tequila Festival will be at Manchester Cathedral on Saturday 14 September.
Lina Stores – Italian deli restaurant serving homemade pasta and more is heading to Manchester
Daisy Jackson
Lina Stores is set to open its very first restaurant in Manchester early next year, taking its beloved mix of handmade pasta and deli food outside of London for the first time.
80 years after opening for the first time in Soho, Lina Stores is heading north to open a 150-cover restaurant.
Blending coffee shop, delicatessen, restaurant, and bar, the new space will be styled in traditional Lina Stores shades of pastel green hues, warm timber woods, and terrazzo and timber flooring.
You’ll find bespoke marble tables, original vintage Bentwood chairs, dark green booth seating and opaline globe lighting inspired by the original Brewer Street delicatessen.
Diners will be spoilt with an Italian-inspired breakfast menu, featuring dishes like truffle scrambled eggs with toasted sourdough, Greek yoghurt with Italian Macedonia fruit salad, and a selection of breakfast panini.
At lunchtimes and dinner there’ll be antipasti such as ricotta and herb gnudi fritti with Calabrian chilli marmellata, and tuna crudo with capers, pink peppercorn and salsa verde.
Lina Stores Manchester will have the brand’s beloved pasta dishes, such as the 30-egg yolk taglioni with black truffle, and lamb sausage ragu pappardelle, plus new options like lemon sole and potato raviolo.
For secondi (because this is Italy darling, you can have two mains!) there are dishes like chicken Milanese and Luganega fennel sausage.
And for dessert, it’s set to be a feast of Sicilian cannolo (filled with ricotta, pistachio and chocolate) and tiramisu.
Lina Stores – Italian deli restaurant serving homemade pasta and more is heading to Manchester. Credit: Rebecca Hope
In the open-plan delicatessen, you’ll be able to grab filling salads, freshly-made panini, and delicate cakes and pastries.
Shelves will be stocked with Lina Stores Collection pantry essentials, from olive oil to traditional biscotti.
And just next to that will be Bar Lina, serving classic and modern Italian cocktails for aperitivo hour until late at night.
Expect favourites like the bloody martini, Rinomata americano, and the basilico with gin, vermouth, basil and lemon.
The bar will have a versatile wine list from all corners of Italy, including the brand’s own signature collection.
Lina Stores Manchester will be located on Quay Street in the recently-refurbished Quoin building, right opposite the Opera House theatre.
Masha Rener, Head Chef of Lina Stores, said: “We’re extremely excited to be opening in Manchester this spring.
“The city feels like a natural home for us considering the area’s rich history, vibrant culinary scene and lively nightlife, and look forward to sharing our passion of great Italian food and produce with the Manchester community.
“Quay Street is the perfect location for us to do so, sitting right in the trifecta of Spinningfields, St John Street and St Peter’s Square.”