A Russian couple’s infiltration of British intelligence in the mid-20th century has been described as one of the ‘most damaging’ in history. But who were the couple responsible?
1950sis often referred to as a ‘golden period’ for Britain – a time of peace, prosperity and progression.
At the midpoint of the 20th century, things were generally looking up. The Second World War was over. Rationing was in its last leg. Employment rates and standards of living were on the rise. And there seemed to be exciting new things happening everywhere – from the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II to the construction of higher-quality neighbourhoods and high-speed roads known as motorways.
But as Britain remained preoccupied and distracted during a pivotal period of irreversible change, some of the country’s biggest secrets were being pickpocketed and sent 3,500 miles around the world.
When the culprits were found and revealed in 1961, the UK was stunned. They were the last people many would have suspected.
In 1954, married American book dealers Peter and Helen Kroger became the new neighbours on the block on Cranley Drive on Ruislip. No one batted an eyelid. With the exception of the couple’s transatlantic roots, there appeared to be very little exotic about them.
ADVERTISEMENT
And that was exactly the idea.
For years, the Krogers successfully blended into British life whilst smuggling top-secret British intel to the Soviet Union as part of an espionage mission which became known as the ‘Portland Spy Ring’.
ADVERTISEMENT
An article in The Daily Mirror from 1961 covering the scandal / Image: Ruislip.co.uk
After arriving in the UK as undercover agents in the mid-50s, the Krogers (real names Morris and Lona Cohen) chose a bungalow not too far from a military base – hoping that powerful signals would distort their transmissions back home.
The duo then spent the next few years communicating messages to other members of a spy ring via radio (which they hid below their kitchen floor) and tiny dots – which were decoded by magnifying glass or special microdot readers and lenses.
The Krogers also possessed a high-speed tape sender that would transmit morse code in rapid bursts in an attempt to avoid detection.
ADVERTISEMENT
Espionage equipment was even tucked away inside their cigarette lighter.
MI5 uncovered the spy ring in 1961, arresting the Krogers along with three others suspected of stealing precious intelligence info.
When the story of the scandal finally broke in the press, it shook the UK to its core.
The Krogers were brought to trial and sentenced to 20 years in prison in total (10 years each), with co-conspirators Harry Houghton, Ethel Gee, and Gordon Lonsdale also receiving lengthy prison terms for their respective roles in the spy ring.
In 1969, the duo were released early as part of a ‘spy swap’ with Russia for Gerald Brooke – a British man who’d been imprisoned in 1965 for distributing anti-Soviet leaflets in the USSR.
ADVERTISEMENT
The Krogers were flown back to Russia first class and hailed as heroes upon their return – with Soviet stamps issued in their honour.
Both passed away in the 1990s.
MI5 found espionage equipment hidden in the Krogers’ bungalow in Ruislip / Image: Science & Industry Museum
More than 60 years since their capture, the Krogers remain shrouded in mystery.
Whilst their infiltration became public knowledge in 1961, the world still hasn’t been told the whole tale – and many of MI5’s files on the couple (and the wider spy ring) remain hidden from public view to this day.
What we do know, however, is that the Krogers played a key role in one of the most alarming security breaches in British history – one so serious it prompted MI5 to retrain staff once the case was cracked.
ADVERTISEMENT
An entire exhibition is dedicated to this remarkable episode as part of Manchester Museum of Science & Industry’s new event: Top Secret: From ciphers to cybersecurity.
The event invites ticket-holders to take a tour through a typical 1950s home like the one belonging to the Krogers, and learn incredible facts about their covert lifestyle along the way.
Walking through the replica property and past the floral wallpaper, visitors will find newspaper clippings and framed photos revealing The Krogers as an extraordinary duo who posed as un-extraordinary people – causing ‘significant damage’ in the process.
More information on The Krogers, the Portland Spy Ring, and the history of UK cybersecurity (including Alan Turing’s role at Bletchley Park) are now on display at the Science & Industry Museum.
The Top Secret exhibition is currently open to the public and runs until 31 August 2021.
Stockport town centre’s first ramen spot sat above a coffee shop that we can’t get enough of
Danny Jones
If you’re a local Stockport resident or have even walked along the increasingly cultured cobbles of Underbank, chances are you’ve passed a place called Ōdiobā, but did you know that by night, its loft turns into a stylish listening bar that also serves some of the best ramen around?
Seriously: not only is it, to our knowledge, the only venue serving traditional ramen in Stockport town centre, but it’s some of the best we’ve had in years. Literally, YEARS.
Central Manchester has the benefit of being spoiled by numerous noodle masters – New Wave, Ramenshop (formerly known as Tokyo Ramen), Shogun, etc. – but we’d genuinely wager that this relative newcomer known simply as Uma is right up there with them.
In fact, it might currently be vying for the top spot itself.
We really try our best to shy away from the most ultimate of superlatives where we can, especially because we’re lucky enough to come across so many culinary gems and new restaurants all the time, but the more we’ve revisited this place, the more we’re convinced it’s utterly brilliant.
On a personal note, in a post-Cocktail Beer Ramen + Bun world, we feel like we’ve come very close to finding a new go-to that’s on a par with the late, great CBRB; perhaps we’ll never quite get there, or maybe we’re falling victim to the rose-tinted lens of nostalgia, but Uma is at least in the conversation.
Something we can say for sure is that they’ve gone with the tried and tested method of doing just a few things extremely over trying to cater to everyone.
Offering a small but stunning menu, with just three small plates and three options when it comes to ramen, each one is well-balanced and portioned, guaranteeing a filling bowl of ramen finished with great quality toppings.
You’re not left needing a single noodle more, nor do they cut you a single spring onion shy – but let’s be honest, this cuisine also leaves you craving more broth.
This might be a small thing, but we even like how the deep bowls come with built-in grooves/utensil holders for you to rest your spoons and chopsticks in. It’s only a little extra, we know, but it’s a nice touch, nevertheless.
Having now done a couple laps of the menu over the course of just a handful of visits, there are few taste bud journeys as satisfying as those gently-seasoned edamame beans, with the vibrant, lightly-acidic pickled daikon radishes and cucumber cutting through, before the savoury bomb of those mains.
And above all else, it’s the broth. My word… that broth.
Most impressively of all, perhaps, is that while we were expecting to enjoy the shoyu or red miso option the most, it’s the vegan ramen that we found to be the most flavourful.
The white miso and vegetable soup base is about as rich as you could hope for from any broth, as are the surprisingly satisfying slices of sweet soy tofu.
The smell of this freshly-charred chashu. Wow. The ideal thickness – great, minimal chew, too.Is Stockport town centre’s first ramen spot also one of the best in Greater Manchester right now? It might just be. (Credit: The Manc Eats)
Put simply, this particular bowl truly puts the Uma in umami.
It really is perfect as is, complemented by the shitake mushrooms, mustard greens, bamboo shoots and aromatic roasted sesame.
However, we honestly believe we have mastered a flawless order: choosing the vegan bowl and then adding pieces of chashu pork, a gooey ramen egg and maybe some chilli oil for good measure.
Try it for yourselves and tell us we’re anything other than absolutely bang on.
As for the space itself, you’ll struggle to find another spot as simultaneously casually aesthetic and atmospheric as the top floor of this building.
It’s well worth a visit to try the sophisticated selection of cocktails co-curated by founder Nam Tran – who first won over foodie fans with his conveniently self-titled Vietnamese venue in Ancoats, which sadly closed in 2024 – or sample his handmade hi-fi system alone, but the bonus of ramen takes the cake.
With DJ sets from the man himself as well as other selectors and artists, not to mention jazz nights and other live music during the week, it’s an effortlessly cool couple of floors that just so happens to serve some of our favourite food to the highest order.
Now, we will confess that we’ve only seen Ōdiobā in its ‘shadow self’ form, for lack of a better phrase, and are yet to sample the artisan café side of this business, but we assure you that it is a failure on our part and one we’ll be making up for as soon as possible.
Let’s just say, if the coffee is as good as the other liquids we’ve drunk here, be it the booze or the very last drop of broth from the bottom of the bowl, it’s probably some of the best in Stockport.
You can guarantee we’ll be coming back to this place time and time again whenever we visit the borough.
The best things to do in Greater Manchester this week | 17 – 23 November 2025
Emily Sergeant
November is passing us by faster than we’d like, so I guess that’s why they say time flies when you’re having fun, right?
Greater Manchester is looking as festive as ever now, as there’s now dozens of light trails, and Christmas events to be getting involved with, not to mention the iconic Manchester Christmas Markets have kicked off for 2025 too, so there’s loads to do throughout our region this week.
Finding it a bit tricky to pick what to do though? No worries. We’ve chosen a few of the highlights for another edition of our ‘what’s on‘ guide.
Both free things and those that’ll set you back a few pennies are featured.
___
Manchester Christmas Markets 2025
Manchester City Centre
Monday 17 November – onwards
Manchester Christmas Markets 2025 / Credit: Manchester City Council
It’s that time of year once again… Manchester Christmas Markets are here for 2025.
The iconic annual event is an absolute staple in Manchester’s festive events calendar, and always draws in thousands of visitors from all across the globe – with hundreds of stalls across several sites now lining the streets of our city this year.
Visitors can tuck into a wide range of festive foods and drinks, and shop for Christmas gifts from countless independent traders.
Find out everything you need to know about Manchester Christmas Markets 2025 here, and check out the full round-up of drinks prices from all the traders here.
A magical illuminated trail will make its return to the historic Dunham Massey this winter, once again filling the grounds with twinkling lights and dazzling installations.
Christmas at Dunham Massey has become one of the North West’s most popular festive light trails, created by award-winning light trail producers, and for 2025, there’ll be a whole host of brand-new installations to see.
Visitors will get to walk through multicoloured landscapes of laser beams, while a projection on the facade of the historic house at Dunham Massey will narrate festive stories.
What’s a festive season in the city without Skate Manchester?
Back once again for 2025, ready for families, friends, and festive fun seekers to enjoy the sights and sounds of Christmas, Skate Manchester is festive staple in Cathedral Gardens, and skaters can expect to glide across a gleaming ice path and spin around a dazzling seven-metre Christmas tree taking centre stage in the middle of the rink for another year.
This year, there’s also a giant turbine by Octopus Energy that’s partially-powering the rink too, and you can skate around it while enjoying the ski scene in the globe.
Yuletide at Tatton Park / Credit: Tatton Park / Emma Croman
One of winter’s top events, Yuletide, is returning to Tatton Park Gardens this weekend.
The magical winter adventure will once again bring a glittering light trail and theatrical, immersive performance to the famous beauty spot.
ADVERTISEMENT
This unique fusion of Christmas light trail and winter family festival is now in its third year, and will debut brand-new features and performances for 2025. As visitors wander the Yuletide event, they’ll be treated to everything from sparkling light installations to impressive fire juggling shows.
Land of Lights at Gulliver’s World / Credit: The Manc Group
The magical Land of Lights has returned to Gulliver’s World once again.
After proving to be a huge success the past two years, the one-mile trail showcases a huge array of lanterns and displays, creating a wondrous, wild, and magical atmosphere that’s suitable for all ages, and this year, there’s even some new additions.
Ready to skate around Cheshire Oaks this Christmas?
That’s right, back by popular demand, the Winter Village is officially open at Cheshire Oaks for another year, and the newest addition this season is the HUGE ice rink.
ADVERTISEMENT
You can skate inside under twinkling lights, or head outside and whizz around the lit-up oak tree, with brilliant views of the big wheel – the perfect photo opportunity. Whether you’re a first-timer, or a seasoned pro, everyone is welcome on the ice.
Christmas has taken over Freight Island, as Winter Island and Twilight Tales open for the festive season.
Twilight Tales is a brand-new outdoor immersive light and story experience, with interactive installations, marshmallow toasting, a Moth Drinks bar, and more.
While Winter Island has returned for another year, bringing you the most delicious festive comfort food from traders like Nell’s, Ornella’s Kitchen, the all-new V. Goode Pies, and Oh My Cheesecake to finsih things off and satisfy your sweet tooth.
Believe! The Polar Express Experience has landed in Manchester.
Having taken over Victoria Warehouse, this is an immersive walk-through experience, inspired by the timeless Christmas classic. You’ll be taken through the story in its entirety, stepping into the Polar Express carriage as a passenger and arriving to a festive Northern Lights display at your final destination – the North Pole, of course.
Photo opportunities are available throughout the experience too… yep, even with the big guy himself, so make sure to get snapping.
Put Big Light On Festival / Credit: Joel Chester Fildes (via Bolton Council)
Bolton’s festival full of fantastic immersive light art installations is back by popular demand and set to shine on the town centre this week.
Curated by artistic events company, Things That Go On Things, Put Big Light On Festival is returning for another year of festive magic, and there’s some huge and impressive art installations set to descend on the Greater Manchester town’s centre.
ADVERTISEMENT
This year’s lineup will feature magical creations from a diverse range of artists.
One of the UK’s largest art fairs is returning to Manchester this weekend.
Manchester Art Fair will transform Manchester Central into the North’s biggest art gallery, and more than 180 individual artists, galleries, and artist-led spaces will be joining together under one roof along with around 11,000 art lovers.
Designed for the collector, the curator, and those who are just simply curious, art enthusiasts can connect directly with galleries and artists in a bid to find that perfect piece to take home.
This year’s event also features an extended programme of high-profile talks, immersive experiences, and workshops too, so there’s something for everyone to get involved in.
Ignite Fire Festival / Credit: Andy Kruczek & Rochdale Borough Council
Then there’ll be the Christmas lights switch-on taking place from 5.30pm on the Sunday, with Father Christmas and his special guests, including the Mayor of Rochdale.
Ignite Fire Festival is back in Rochdale this weekend for three nights of spectacular shows, light trails, and family-friendly entertainment.
Rochdale Borough Council has promised that this year’s Ignite Fire Festival will be the biggest yet, with a 20-strong drumming collective, blazing fire sculptures, illuminated installations, and with artworks created, once again, by multi-award-winning outdoor arts specialists Walk the Plank.
The event will kick off with a torchlight procession to officially launch the new Broadfield Slopes, which have been carefully restored to deliver new pathways and parkland in the town centre.
Find out more about this jaw-dropping festival here.
___
Northern Lights
Heaton Park
Thursday 20 November – 31 December
Northern Lights / Credit: Supplied
Heaton Park will be transformed into a glowing world of wonder as one of the UK’s most celebrated festive light trails makes its Manchester debut.
Already a hit in other major northern cities such as Leeds and Newcastle, Northern Lights – the acclaimed light trail from the team behind established music festivals Kendal Calling and Bluedot – descends on our city’s largest park this week, and brings its cinematic visuals, choreographed soundscapes, and festive atmosphere along with it.
The mile-long route will feature 16 large-scale installations, each synchronised to bespoke soundtracks creating a 90-minute experience like no other.
The Grotto is returning to the Trafford Centre for the festive season this week.
This year, the shopping centre is taking things up a notch too, as The Grotto is described as being a ‘joyful’ and ‘interactive’ adventure where you’ll become part of a magical mission – saving Christmas cheer.
To make the experience accessible to all, specially-tailored Whispering Winter sessions with softer lighting, quieter music, and fewer visitors will create a calm and inclusive environment for every child to enjoy the magic of Christmas.
East Lancashire Railway’s beloved Santa steam train rides are back for more festive fun this Christmas.
Running right through until Christmas Eve, ELR’s ‘Santa Specials’ are your chance to hop on board an old-school steam train and travel through the magical Irwell Valley to make “enchanted memories” that last a lifetime.
The famous festive steam trains have become an essential part of Christmas for many families in the North West, and there’s still some tickets left available.