The Guardian’s food critic Jay Rayner has headed back up north for his latest restaurant review, with his sights set on Manchester’s swankiest new opening, Fenix.
The two-storey restaurant was one of the hottest newcomers of last year, thanks in no small part to its lavish and luxurious interiors.
The modern Greek-Mediterranean concept comes from the same team behind Tattu, and opened on the edge of Spinningfields in mid-November.
Fenix’s much-talked about interior features details like fake flames above the bar, a ceiling covered in golden grasses, and huge stonewashed arches, along with cutting-edge lighting that transforms it from Mykonos beach bar to moonlit Greek restaurant.
Jay Rayner wrote that he would usually ‘hate such places at first sight’ because so much attention to aesthetics can come at the downfall of the food offering – but his review of Fenix was nothing short of glowing.
He described the interior as being ‘like the cantina from the original Star Wars, only with added hummus’, and said the wheat ceiling allowed you to ‘imagine yourself either as Russell Crowe in Gladiator or Theresa May in her wild years’.
Rayner’s Guardian review said: “The food here, courtesy of Greek head chef Ippokratis Anagnostelis, is delightful. Yes, it can be mannered. And no, this isn’t the place for taverna classics. But it really is all sorts of delicious and, in its own way, thoroughly comforting.”
The ‘moussaka’ at Fenix got Jay Rayner’s approval in his latest Guardian review. Credit: The Manc GroupInside Fenix in Manchester. Credit: The Manc Group
He raved about the moussaka (‘not so much deconstructed as reupholstered’, but ‘it works’); the taramasalata and ‘hot and blistered’ pitta, the sea bass tartare and the roasted aubergine.
Rayner then hailed the seafood orzo as ‘fabulous’, the creme brulee as ‘accomplished’ and heaped praise on the ‘two thumbs thick’ spiced tiger prawns.
He wrote: “Larger dishes include a leg of slow-roasted lamb for four priced at £95. It must be ordered 24 hours ahead. You’re invited to do so when you book, along with the bottles of Laurent-Perrier Rosé Brut at £125. Well, that just sounds like a spanking night out to me. What do you mean, cost-of-living crisis? Never heard of it.
Jay Rayner has raved about Fenix in his latest food review for The Guardian. Credit: The Manc GroupInside Fenix’s lavish bar area. Credit: The Manc Group
“Clearly, I have now very much given myself to this place, with its priestesses, fake foliage and hanging wheat.”
He signed off his review writing: “You have to give yourself to Fenix, much as you might to Disneyland or a cruise of the Norwegian fjords or a Soho torture garden. Perhaps you didn’t think this was your scene. But now you’re here it turns out to have a lot to recommend it.
“Yes, some of Fenix is very silly indeed. The cocktail list includes the vodka-based Apollo’s Lemonade. The description explains that Apollo was damn pretty and good at things like archery and a little light soothsaying. “Our alcoholic version of lemonade is equally vibrant.” That’s good enough for me.
“Like a night in that Soho torture garden, eating here will also prove punishing, especially if you rage through the bargain-free wine list. Then again, that 15ft fake olive tree isn’t going to pay for itself and dancing around one of those like you’ve become your very own Greek god can be fun.
“The other customers here this lunchtime have clearly accepted the cost, for this is Manchester suited and booted and that’s a crowd that knows how to have fun. But even if none of that appeals, even if you don’t want to eat on the sunkissed set of Mamma Mia!, do come for the food. It’s terrific.”
Fenix has described their glowing review in The Guardian as ‘an incredibly proud moment’ for the team.
They posted today: “They have worked tirelessly to deliver a unique experience combining beautiful surroundings with ‘exceptional’ Greek cuisine served with passion. Seeing their efforts recognised by the esteemed @jayrayner1 is a landmark moment so early in our journey. We are humbled.”
A much-loved Manc drinking spot is handing out FREE spritzes to Sounds of the City gig-goers
Danny Jones
Popular Manchester city centre drinking spot, Society, is handing out free spritzes to gig-goers heading to this year’s Sounds of the City festival.
The annual series of live music events returned at the start of the month, with Castlefield Bowl once again being turned into one of the best amphitheatres in the country – not that we’re biased, or anything.
And since we’re in a month packed with outdoor gigs (pretty sure there’s some local band on at Heaton Park), what better drink to help you get a bit loose before the party starts than a refreshing spritz in the sunshiiine?
Better yet, if you fancy copping a complimentary one, Society beer and food hall are handing out freebies for those going to Sounds of the City 2025.
As you can see, the deal is simple: turn up to the beautiful Society beer garden or equally lovely indoor space and show your ticket to the bar staff to get your hands on a free spritzer.
Now, there is a catch, as they’re only promising 100 free drinks in total across all seven concerts this July, and three of them have already been – which could be a blessing or a curse – and they’re available on a first come first serve basis from 4pm on each event date.
However, we’ll admit we were a little late to the news on this occasion, so there’s a chance plenty of others haven’t heard about the offer either, meaning you could still be able to sort yourself a free Sarti or Aperol Spritz (only 50 of each available).
Salivating.Sounds of the City is just a short walk from Society.Credit: The Manc Eats/Audio North
With 2025 season openers, Elbow, having kicked things off in true Manc style, as well as The Charlatans and Shed Seven having already played, the word may have gotten out, but it’s still worth a crack. Besides, Society is still a brilliant summery drinking spot regardless.
The deal is available across all remaining concert dates:
Wed, 9 July – The Black Keys, with support from Miles Kane
Thurs, 10 July – Bloc Party, with support from The Royston Club
Fri, 11 July – Rizzle Kicks, with support from Maverick Sabre and Abbie McCarthy
Sat, 12th July – Basement Jaxx, with support from Mike Skinner (DJ Set) and Storm Mollison
Oh, and if you’re wondering what SOTC 2025 has been like so far, the neighbouring balconies have been full as always, Castlefield Hotel has been packed, and we got Guy Garvey to wave at a train driver…
Featured Images — The Manc Group/Society (supplied)
Eats
The UK’s best kebab is coming to Manchester as legendary shawarma bar announces Deansgate site
Clementine Hall
A brand-new shawarma bar is set to open its doors in Manchester this summer.
If you’re ever across the Pennines over in sunny Leeds, then you will have most likely heard of SQEW – a modern Lebanese-inspired eatery that has established itself as a cult-favourite amongst locals.
And it’s not just those Yorkshire folk who think it’s great, SQEW has recently been scooping up the accolades including most recently, Deliveroo’s Best Kebab of 2025.
The rumour mill has been turning for quite some time now but luckily for us they are in fact true, SQEW will be bringing its bold, elevated take on the kebab to 75 Deansgate, taking over the former Rola Wala site.
Images: The Manc Group
From humble beginnings to national recognition, SQEW was founded in 2015 by passionate chef and founder Mitch Renshaw, who wanted to give the often-overlooked kebab the love it truly deserves.
What began as a single idea serving slow-cooked meats and house-made sauces quickly boomed into a local sensation, eventually landing a permanent home in 2021 on Leeds’ Boar Lane.
Customers can expect a menu rooted in Lebanese flavours with a modern twist, all served with good old fashioned northern hospitality.
Image: The Manc Group
Speaking about the expansion, Mitch Renshaw, Owner and Founder of SQEW, said: “Were absolutely thrilled to announce our move over the pennies. We’ve been searching for the perfect site since 2023, and when we came across 75 Deansgate we jumped at it. We have a few surprises up our sleeves for Manchester and can’t wait to reveal more.
Having spent the last few weeks in Manchester, I’m brimming ear to ear, the people, the culture, the operators, we just can’t wait to be part of it.”
The new site will feature an all-day shawarma bar concept with seating, takeaway, and delivery options – so you can get your SQEW fix however way you want it.
We’ll keep you updated with more details in the coming weeks, but you keep an eye on SQEW’s socials for more sneak peeks.
Daisy Jackson -
22nd January 2024 
