The Guardian’s food critic Jay Rayner has headed back up north for his latest restaurant review, with his sights set on Manchester’s swankiest new opening, Fenix.
The two-storey restaurant was one of the hottest newcomers of last year, thanks in no small part to its lavish and luxurious interiors.
The modern Greek-Mediterranean concept comes from the same team behind Tattu, and opened on the edge of Spinningfields in mid-November.
Fenix’s much-talked about interior features details like fake flames above the bar, a ceiling covered in golden grasses, and huge stonewashed arches, along with cutting-edge lighting that transforms it from Mykonos beach bar to moonlit Greek restaurant.
Jay Rayner wrote that he would usually ‘hate such places at first sight’ because so much attention to aesthetics can come at the downfall of the food offering – but his review of Fenix was nothing short of glowing.
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He described the interior as being ‘like the cantina from the original Star Wars, only with added hummus’, and said the wheat ceiling allowed you to ‘imagine yourself either as Russell Crowe in Gladiator or Theresa May in her wild years’.
Rayner’s Guardian review said: “The food here, courtesy of Greek head chef Ippokratis Anagnostelis, is delightful. Yes, it can be mannered. And no, this isn’t the place for taverna classics. But it really is all sorts of delicious and, in its own way, thoroughly comforting.”
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The ‘moussaka’ at Fenix got Jay Rayner’s approval in his latest Guardian review. Credit: The Manc GroupInside Fenix in Manchester. Credit: The Manc Group
He raved about the moussaka (‘not so much deconstructed as reupholstered’, but ‘it works’); the taramasalata and ‘hot and blistered’ pitta, the sea bass tartare and the roasted aubergine.
Rayner then hailed the seafood orzo as ‘fabulous’, the creme brulee as ‘accomplished’ and heaped praise on the ‘two thumbs thick’ spiced tiger prawns.
He wrote: “Larger dishes include a leg of slow-roasted lamb for four priced at £95. It must be ordered 24 hours ahead. You’re invited to do so when you book, along with the bottles of Laurent-Perrier Rosé Brut at £125. Well, that just sounds like a spanking night out to me. What do you mean, cost-of-living crisis? Never heard of it.
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Jay Rayner has raved about Fenix in his latest food review for The Guardian. Credit: The Manc GroupInside Fenix’s lavish bar area. Credit: The Manc Group
“Clearly, I have now very much given myself to this place, with its priestesses, fake foliage and hanging wheat.”
He signed off his review writing: “You have to give yourself to Fenix, much as you might to Disneyland or a cruise of the Norwegian fjords or a Soho torture garden. Perhaps you didn’t think this was your scene. But now you’re here it turns out to have a lot to recommend it.
“Yes, some of Fenix is very silly indeed. The cocktail list includes the vodka-based Apollo’s Lemonade. The description explains that Apollo was damn pretty and good at things like archery and a little light soothsaying. “Our alcoholic version of lemonade is equally vibrant.” That’s good enough for me.
“Like a night in that Soho torture garden, eating here will also prove punishing, especially if you rage through the bargain-free wine list. Then again, that 15ft fake olive tree isn’t going to pay for itself and dancing around one of those like you’ve become your very own Greek god can be fun.
“The other customers here this lunchtime have clearly accepted the cost, for this is Manchester suited and booted and that’s a crowd that knows how to have fun. But even if none of that appeals, even if you don’t want to eat on the sunkissed set of Mamma Mia!, do come for the food. It’s terrific.”
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Fenix has described their glowing review in The Guardian as ‘an incredibly proud moment’ for the team.
They posted today: “They have worked tirelessly to deliver a unique experience combining beautiful surroundings with ‘exceptional’ Greek cuisine served with passion. Seeing their efforts recognised by the esteemed @jayrayner1 is a landmark moment so early in our journey. We are humbled.”
Impressive CGIs reveal new two-storey Latin BBQ restaurant, bar, and music venue coming to the Northern Quarter
Lydia Mastrolonardo
The Northern Quarter will soon welcome a huge two-storey Latin BBQ restaurant, bar and music venue, brought to you by the same team behind Manchester’s beloved Firehouse and Ramona – you just know it’s going to be good with names like that.
New CGI images have been released of the venue, giving us a sneak peek at what to expect from the huge transformation, which will take over the site formerly home to Pie & Ale.
Dahlia is set to be home to Barbacoa Cósmica, an open-fire grill kitchen, with cooking inspired by Latin America and the southern states of America. As the Northern Quarter’s first open fire grill kitchen, guests will have the unique experience of being able to watch the chefs in action, from their kitchen counter seats.
The concept is the product of years of travelling across Latin America, exploring regional recipes and techniques, then condensed down to allow us to take a road trip from San Diego to Jalisco, Mexico City to Oaxaca, all from the comfort of our seats.
Dahlia’s will also be home to Bar Más Bonita, translating to ‘most beautiful bar’, which has not disappointed either judging from the CGI projections – we just can’t wait to see it in person.
This lively Liquorita is set to serve up all sorts of Latin American specialties – think vibrant, handcrafted cocktails and salted rims with tequila, mezcal, rum and Latin spirits.
In the evenings, the space will transform into Dahlia Stereo, an intimate two-storey music space powered by a bespoke Hatchett Sound system. Every element of the venue has been carefully considered by sound engineers and acoustic specialists, including Jonny ‘Oppo’ of Neuron Audio, to ensure the best listening experience possible.
A glimpse inside Dahlia in Manchester. Credit: Supplied
Will Taplin, executive chef at Dahlia, shared: “Barbacoa Cósmica is the result of everything we have experienced and loved during our travels across Latin America.
“It is generous, energetic and completely driven by flavour. If something is on the menu, it is because we genuinely love it, and we hope Manchester will love it too.”
Jonny ‘Oppo’ said: “We have been building and working with sound systems for years, but Manchester’s bars and restaurants have never had an installation at this level. Every detail of the room has been designed around how music should sound and feel. It is genuinely exciting for the city.”
In addition to this, the iconic Jonjo Williams of Maribou State and Rich Reason of Hit & Run, have carefully curated a music programme for September to give us a flavour of what’s to come, including sets from Gilles Peterson, Quantic, Gia Fu, DJ Die and Joey T.
Dahlia ManchesterThe site of Dahlia
Jonjo Williams explained: “We want to create the energy of an intimate club within a bar and restaurant.
“We are deliberately keeping capacity below 250 so the experience always feels personal, immersive and connected. Dahlia has been designed by the best DJs for the best DJs, but ultimately it has been created for anyone who truly loves music.”
With craft being central to the space, almost every element has been made by hand by the Dahlia team and its team of trusted independent artisans and specialist suppliers. From the artwork and upholstery, to the world class sound system and the team’s own bottled Latin spirits, it truly has all been carefully thought through.
We never thought we’d wish for summer to be over, but September can’t come soon enough.
Click HERE for reservations or follow @dahliastereofor further announcements.
National Pizza Awards looking for one lucky person to join 2026 judging panel
Emily Sergeant
Job adverts don’t come much better than this, as the National Pizza Awards is searching for one lucky person to join the judging panel at this year’s grand final.
The National Pizza Awards invite chefs from across the hospitality industry each year to submit their signature recipes in a bid to claim the coveted title of National Pizza of the Year title, providing a platform for the UK’s ultimate pizza professionals to showcase their recipes on a national scale.
Hosted by Dine Out magazine finalists face off in a live cooking showdown in front of a hand-picked panel of industry judges.
On top of a signature round, competitors take part in a technical challenge that sees them construct the best dish from a selection of ingredients, with the winner being named National Pizza Chef of the Year.
The National Pizza Awards is looking for one lucky person to join its 2026 judging panel / Credit: The Manc Group
And this year, you could play a part in picking the winners.
That’s right – the National Pizza Awards has launched a nationwide search for a new judge, and the only catch (if you can even call it a catch) is that the judge will need to sample 16 of the UK’s best pizzas in a single day as chefs battle it out for the title.
It’s a tough gig, but someone’s got to do it, and if you want to be that someone, entries are now open for you to enter.
Pizzas are judged on how the they’re made, the flavour profile, how they’re cooked, the aesthetic and presentation, and the texture, quality, and consistency, as well as the choice of ingredients.
To be in with a chance, you’ll simply just need tag your favourite pizza place in the Instagram competition post, and then if that place enters the awards and makes it through to the final cook-off, you’ll be entered into a draw to become that all-important guest judge this November.
Daisy Jackson -
22nd January 2024 
