The food critic Grace Dent has published a rave review of one of Manchester’s new restaurant openings, Musu, bestowing national kudos on the Bridge Street eatery.
Referred to by the Guardian reviewer as ‘very possibly the most expensive restaurant in Manchester’, in a glowing write up she compares it to ‘the Starship Enterprise, albeit one with geishas on the walls and a £110 seven-course menu’.
Already a favourite of Ilkay Gundogan’s notoriously hard-to-please wife (it’s the only eatery she’s praised since famously saying that the Manchester food and drink scene was ‘horrible’), thankfully, Musu has now found a more discerning reviewer to recommend it.
Dent opens by advising ‘all who have already taken terrible umbrage that Musu even exists’ to ‘abandon reading this review here’, before going on to say she, personally, is ‘rather cheered that there are still people north of Watford who have the faith and gumption to open places as pointedly bonkers as this.’
Image: The Manc Eats
Image: The Manc Eats
The 55-cover restaurant is described as being ‘as dark in places as Adrian Mole’s bedroom’, with plenty of attention paid to its ‘theatrical’ detailing.
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A glass-fronted private dining room that, ‘at the touch of a button, turns frosted’, gets a special mention, as does Musu’s bold ‘Japanese murals, globe lighting and […] nakedly open kitchen’.
But the real praise is reserved for the cooking of chef Michael Shaw, formerly of Gordon Ramsay Inc and Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, hailed as ‘minuscule portions of exquisite pleasure that linger in your mind.’
As she reels through the seven-course tasting menu, praising each dish as she goes, things go from great to excellent.
At one point, after digging into Musu’s sashimi (described as ‘ three of the finest pieces of sashimi imaginable’) she proffers: ‘I felt like handing my badge back there and then – it’s over; I won’t ever taste better’, before moving on to another ‘outstanding’ dish.
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Image: The Manc Eats
Image: The Manc Eats
If there is a criticism, it’s that upon finishing the seven courses she still finds herself hungry – commenting: ‘Very rarely – in fact, never – do I wish I’d chosen the longer tasting menu, though at £150 plus drinks, that would have been guaranteed to cause a reader revolt.’
This, in turn, leads to some good-natured musing on just who all these people are spending hundreds in ‘mobbed’ Musu on a Friday night, with Dent asking pointedly: ‘Where are they getting their money? None of them seemed to be the type to have Brink’s-Mat gold buried at the bottom of their garden.’
Summarising, she writes: “If you’ve already decided to boycott Musu over the sheer cost, the din and the small portions, I must at this point stress that the food is outstanding.
“Sure, Musu isn’t for everybody, but if someone else is funding your wanton extravagance, then drag them there. It’s unforgettable for many reasons: some of them are hilarious, yes, but mostly they’re just plain good.”
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Read more:The best restaurants and bars to open in Manchester in 2022
Feature image – The Manc Eats
Eats
Michelin-recommended rooftop restaurant Climat has closed its doors with immediate effect
Daisy Jackson
One of Manchester’s top-rated restaurants has announced its shock and immediate closure.
Climat, which is set way up high in Blackfriars House with staggering views of Manchester city centre, has said that the Michelin-recommended restaurant is now permanently closed.
In a heartbreaking statement, founder Christopher Laidler said that Climat is ‘yet another casualty of the times we’re living in’.
Laying out the brutal reality of running a hospitality business, Chris wrote about ‘rampant food inflation’, an ‘ever-increasing tax burden’, and ‘the persistent cost of living crisis’, describing it as a perfect storm against hospitality.
Then delving deeper into the numbers, he shared that Climat has faced an eye-watering £112,000 electricity bill for its first 13 months in business – that’s 400% more than they’d budgeted.
That was chased by a 33% increase in staff wages, then a jump in business rates from £12,000 a year to £38,000 a year.
Couple that with reduced footfall and it’s ‘spelling disaster for so many’.
Climat has closed its doors with immediate effectClimat has laid their finances bare in their closing statement
He wrote: “Whilst I wanted to highlight these reasons for closure, in the naive hope the Government will start to listen before it’s too late for others, I want to acknowledge the fantastic work of our team over the last 3.5 years.
“The closure does not do justice to their efforts and dedication. I’d also like extend a huge debt of gratitude to our guests for their support, enabling us to build a nationally recognised wine list – our raison d’être.”
Signing off, he said: “I wish everyone the very best of luck in these challenging times. Bye for now, Christopher.”
Climat opened in late 2022, with an impressive wine list and a beautiful restaurant space overlooking Manchester.
It didn’t take long before it was added to the Michelin Guide, which wrote: “An open kitchen is the focus of the room, with its aromas filling the air, and the concise fixed-price menu includes well-executed dishes such as halibut with spinach and sorrel velouté, where the ingredient quality shines through.
“Wine is a feature with one side of the room acting as a bar and the carefully curated list deftly mixing traditional and modern styles.”
Legendary Northern Quarter bar Trof is reopening as a classic pub and dining room
Daisy Jackson
Trof is one of the Northern Quarter’s finest offerings, and has been ever since it launched in the early 2000s – but the times are a-changing.
Trof has now revealed a brand-new era, reopening later this week as a classic pub and dining room, complete with refreshed interiors and a new food offering.
Soon operating as The Trof, the latest era will come from the team behind acclaimed Manchester restaurant Stow.
The Trof will be a classic pub right in the heart of the Northern Quarter, serving a menu of British pub classics that will showcase top local produce.
That’s alongside a considered wine list, and a range of cask ales from Thornbridge across in the Peak District.
Expect mains like ox cheek pie with Ratte potato mash, a classic beef burger in a milk bun, and a pork collar with cabbage and bacon, chased by proper puds like a sticky toffee pudding, and a pistachio and cherry Bakewell tart.
And there’ll be proper roasts on Sundays, with quality joints of beef rump, porchetta, chicken, and Knutsford roast lamb from Littlewoods, served family-style and accompanied by all the trimmings.
The menu and drinks offering is a real nod to co-owner Jamie Pickles’ Peak District upbringing.
Everyone in Manchester’s got a Trof story, whether it’s first dates or regular after-work pints, and The Trof hopes to continue being a space for both drinkers and diners.
Inside, the space will have a refurb that will accentuate the building’s character, while evoking the cosiness of a local pub, with pine wood features and flooring, a centrepiece bar, and even a piano.
The building itself dates way back to the 1880s, but was opened as a neighbourhood bar in the early 2000s by the legendary Adelaide Winter and Joel Wilkinson (Firehouse, Ramona, Schloss) before being purchased from Mission Mars by co-owner Matt Nellany in 2022.
Matt and Jamie joined forces at Trof the following year, before launching Stow.
And now they’re realising their long-held dream of refurbing and relaunching this iconic Northern Quarter venue.
Matt Nellany, co-owner and landlord of The Trof said of the change: “It’s nerve wracking to make such a big change to a venue which is so significant to so many people!
“Ask anyone in Manchester and they’ll have a Trof story – we seem to have hosted a LOT of first dates here over the years – but we felt that it was time for the next chapter in this beautiful building’s history.
“We love pubs, and we’ve always wanted to do that elegant, city centre pub which you see so much across London – being able to do that with fabulous northern produce including cask ales from Thornbridge and meats from Marcus at Littlewoods right in the heart of the Northern Quarter is a privilege we will take very seriously!”
Jamie – co-owner and heading up the food said: “The Trof sits right in the heart of what was Manchester’s market district and hopefully the menu pays homage to that – fabulous veg, great quality meat, excellent bar snacks – all served with well cellared cask ale and a great wine list – this will be a pub truly for Manchester’s people and we can’t wait to get it open.”
The Trof will reopen at midday on Friday 1 May, with space for walk-ins plus reservations for the dining room.
Georgina Pellant -
27th March 2023 
