Inside the lasagne speakeasy and sandwich shop on the outskirts of Ancoats
For those who still cry "make Ancoats rough again" this little spot on Radium Street, with its distinct lack of airs and graces, should be just the ticket
On the outskirts of Ancoats, you’ll find two of Manchester’s best-kept takeaway secrets: Bada Bing and Lazy Tony’s Lasagneria.
Run by couple Meg and Sam, Bada Bing serves up some of Manchester’s henchest sandwiches; whilst Danny ‘Keko’ Smith’s Lasagneria (as you’ve probably already guessed) specialises in big fat slabs of lasagne and giant mozzarella dipping sticks.
Small portions are definitely not a thing here, not that we’re complaining.
Between them, these two dark kitchens are returning some underground DIY cred to what’s left of ‘old Ancoats’ – the once-scruffy, un-gentrified little Italy of days gone by.
So for those who still cry “make Ancoats rough again” this little spot on Radium Street, with its distinct lack of airs and graces, should be just the ticket.
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It’s a far cry from the clean and shiny, commercial “ghost” kitchens that have sprung up all over the city since Covid. Inside, it’s a roughly-hewn, make-do sort of space: part-artists studio, part-junk shop, part-professional kitchen.
Still, that’s not stopping these chefs from pulling in queues that line all the way up the street. If anything, it only adds to their cache.
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The trio has known each other indirectly for years, all working stints for the likes of Liars Club, Lust, Liquor, and Cane & Grain – albeit not always at the same time.
They’ve put in more than their fair share of time in other people’s kitchens, making it a dream come true to now be independent and working on their own successful projects.
“Everyone’s stuff has taken off a lot quicker than we were expecting so we’ve just had to be very adaptable,” says Danny, who’s gone from selling 40 lasagnas a week to over 200 in the space of a month.
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The two kitchens share a small prep space on Radium Street, which they also use as a retail pickup spot for customers (and delivery drivers) to come and collect weekend orders.
Trading on the same days, but at different times, they split it between them – with Sam and Meg coming in for the morning shift, and Danny and co swapping in for the afternoon.
Still, he tells us: “the classic thing that happens [where] they get people coming to them all lunch asking about lasagne, [then] we get people coming to us all evening asking about sandwiches.”
As well as operating out of the unit in Radium street, Bada Bing has also expanded into a disused flapjack factory in Miles Platting which they’re sharing with another hotly-tipped indie startup, bakehouse Batard.
This is where Sam and Meg churn out all their amazing hoagies, made using their own recipe perfected by way of trial and error in the first lockdown. Baked off fresh every morning, whatever doesn’t sell is then taken down to the homeless shelter at the end of the day.
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They also use the space to prep filling ingredients like their giardiniera, an Italian relish of pickled vegetables which Sam tells us they get through “an insane amount” of.
Menu mainstays include house hoagie ‘The Bing’ and ‘The Muffulleta’, whilst new specials appear regularly to keep things fresh for their loyal fans.
Right now they’re serving a take on Philadelphia’s second most famous sandwich, The Philly Roast Pork.
Of course, everyone knows and loves the cheesesteak – but this is probably more up Manchester’s street, given that it comes with a pot of dipping gravy.
“It’s my favourite,” Sam confides.
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Available until 30th May, it’s got gravy inside and out with a generous smattering smeared across the thinly-sliced roast pork shoulder inside.
Other specials, meanwhile, include The Sicilian and vegan sandwich Dr Greenthumb, laughingly described as “all the green things… that we are allowed to put on sub anyway.” Cheeky.
When it comes to future plans, a shared retail unit might be on the cards further down the line.
For now, though, the guys are talking about getting involved in an outside communal area attached to their current building on Radium Street.
Recently, it’s been used as a home for the new Ancoats pop-up market – but Danny tells us that, come this summer, they’re hoping to do some cool open-air drinking and dining events out there.
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“We’re thinking about having it as just something for the building where everyone can contribute,” he says.
Explaining that Witch Kings Rum, based in the building’s ground floor unit, already has a premises license, he tells us of a plan to sell drinks directly into the courtyard alongside food from the dark kitchens upstairs.
It’s very much something for the summer, with everyone involved planning to chip in together for furniture and then share the outside, partially-covered space. With room for around 30 covers, it’ll be a pretty intimate affair.
Like so many ex-hospitality staff who’ve gone their own way during the pandemic, both kitchens seem keen to cut out the traditional model and make it on their own.
After all, ‘why continue slogging it out in someone else’s trenches for minimal perks when you could be building something for yourself?’ seems to be the resounding motto of hospo staff post-covid.
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This past year has presented so many opportunities to overworked, undervalued talents: many of whom have dreamed of having their own places for years but have only just been granted the space, freedom and time to turn those fantasies into reality.
Now that people are doing it for themselves and killing it, we’re not sure the industry is ever going to be the same again. And that could be a very good thing indeed.
Let the Bada Bings and the Lazy Tony’s of Manchester run things, we say. They’ve already been doing it for long enough.
Eats
One of Manchester’s best restaurants is opening a ‘bread kitchen’ in Exhibition food hall
Daisy Jackson
A Michelin guide restaurant in Manchester is branching out with a new project, and this time it’s all about bread.
The team behind Another Hand will be taking over one of the kitchens in food hall Exhibition, launching Jaan, which will specialise in Persian cooking.
The new bread kitchen will focus on Wildfarmed House Flatbreads, which will come with an array of seasonal toppings.
And a lot of the produce heading to the Jaan kitchen at Exhibition will be taken from what’s not used at Another Hand around the corner.
For example, a whole sirloin that’s used for Another Hand’s ex-dairy sirloin dish will provide meat trimmings that will be turned into Jaan’s beef tartare.
The tail and trim from Another Hand’s seared trout will head to Jaan to be used in a fire-roasted sea trout fatoush salad.
And the two restaurants will share other bits of produce too, like a squash that will go into both a Winter Squash small plate at the main restaurant and a scorched summer squash dish at the food hall.
Another Hand’s famous flatbreads will be the staple on the menu at Jaan, which is moving into the beautiful kitchen on Peter Street hot on the heels of the departure of Rigatoni’s.
Since it launched in 2022, the restaurant’s become known as one of Manchester’s best, even earning a place in the Michelin guide.
It’s famed for its sharing plates, as well as the team’s efforts to drive sustainable practices, sourcing produce from across the north west.
Most ingredients used in the restaurant have travelled no more than 40 miles, and the bread comes from Holy Grain while the chocolate comes from Dormouse, both right next door.
Jaan will be moving in to the Exhibition food hall in Manchester
They hope that Jaan will help their sustainable credentials even more, allowing them to use up almost every scrap of produce.
Small plates will all be served with house flatbreads, and toppings will include smoked aubergine, whipper butterbean, black garlic cheese bread, ex-dairy beef tartare, and ras el hanout spiced lamb.
And larger plates will include slow-cooked lamb shank with ancient grains, grilled octopus and nduja, and chermoula chicken rice.
Chef patrons Max Yorke and Julian Pizer said: “We feel extremely privileged to be offered the opportunity to cook alongside Osma and Baratxuri at Exhibition Manchester.
“Over the last few years our small 24 cover restaurant has generated a large waitlist and we are excited to showcase our new concept to a wider audience.
“Most importantly, as we make more steps to improve our environmental standards, our food waste systems showed an obvious area in which we could develop.
“By opening a second kitchen in such a fast paced venue we can take unused produce from Another Hand and even further reduce, and hopefully eradicate, our wastage.”
Jaan Persian Bread Kitchen will open within Exhibition on 8 May, joining Osma and Baratxuri on the venue’s restaurant floor.
Gary Neville lines up Michelin star chef for his Stock Exchange Hotel restaurant
Daisy Jackson
Gary Neville has announced a new restaurant within his five-star Stock Exchange Hotel, which will open almost a year after the previous eatery announced its shock closure.
The magnificent dining room at the heart of the hotel was previously home to Tom Kerridge’s The Bull & Bear, which closed at the end of 2022.
It was then replaced by Stock Market Grill, a restaurant by the award-winning Schofield brothers (who operate officially the best bar in the UK) – but that was open for only a matter of months.
Thankfully, the Manchester United legend and property mogul now has grand plans for the Stock Exchange’s restaurant offering, roping in two-time Michelin star chef Niall Keating.
Niall will be launching Tender this summer, a luxury dining experience ‘named after the tender care put into crafting each dish’.
There’ll be gourmet food for everyday dining within the hotel’s historic dining room, which will undergo a renovation before Tender’s launch.
Its menu will offer weekday brasserie lunches, a la carte dinners, afternoon teas, Sunday roasts, a chef’s table and a special tasting menu.
The Stock Exchange Hotel is home to one of Manchester’s most beautiful restaurant spaces. Credit: The Manc GroupThe Stock Exchange Hotel is home to one of Manchester’s most beautiful restaurant spaces. Credit: The Manc Group
Niall Keating at just 33 years old has already earned two Michelin stars, making him one of the youngest two-time Michelin star chefs in the UK.
His CV has included stints in kitchens at the best restaurants in the world, including Restaurant Sat Bains and Benu in San Francisco (a three Michelin-star spot).
He then headed to The Dining Room at Whatley Manor Hotel, where he earned his first star in 2017 and a second in 2019, as well as a prestigious Green Star in 2021 which recognises sustainability practices.
Speaking about today’s announcement, Gary Neville, owner of Stock Exchange Hotel, said: “We couldn’t be happier to be partnering with Niall Keating for Tender and bringing his culinary expertise to the hotel.
“His vision to create versatile and accessible dining options is exactly what we’ve been looking for, to allow everyone visiting Tender to find the right experience for them.”
Niall Keating added: “From when I first walked through the doors of the hotel into the dining room, I knew this was the place for me and that we could create something really special.
“I immediately felt connected to both Gary and General Manager, Tracy Harrison, and I knew what I wanted to create at the hotel and restaurant. I want a space that feels vibrant, warm and energetic, that brings to life the history of the stock exchange roots of the hotel, while providing an upscale and comfortable brasserie dining experience.
“In addition to the main dining room, we will also be opening ‘The Bank’, which is a beautiful private space for up to 12 guests, where we will be providing a truly exceptional dining experience.”
Gary added: “We will also shortly be announcing a series of events and live music experiences, including a weekly music plan, within Tender, that will really bring the venue to life, making it the heart of Stock Exchange Hotel.”
Tender restaurant at the Stock Exchange Hotel will officially open on 5 June.
Its opening hours will be Wednesday to Saturday, midday to 10pm, and Sundays midday to 7.30pm.