The sun is beating down on you, there’s a couple of luminous orange Aperol Spritzes on the checked tablecloth, Italian pop music is trickling out over the speakers and you’ve got two heaping bowls of pasta on the way.
The setting could easily be a cobbled street in front of the Colosseum in Rome. But it’s not. It’s an industrial estate in Prestwich.
Caffè Lupo must be one of Greater Manchester’s most hidden gems in a very literal sense.
To get here, you have to drive or walk a strange looping circuit around industrial warehouses peddling everything from splashbacks to burglar alarms to grow tents.
One of these warehouses, located in the very furthest yard, looks a little different to the others, festooned with bunches of garlic and dried herbs strung up from the ceiling.
ADVERTISEMENT
There are shelves full of pasta, sauces and even crisps, a fridge packed with delicious Italian wines and beers, and retro football shirt-inspired merch hanging from the walls.
Its awkward location does nothing to hold back its loyal customers, who repeatedly return for the authentic taste of Rome on offer here.
ADVERTISEMENT
Lupo is operated by Nico Pasquali, who first ran it as a tiny Italian cafe on Chapel Street in Salford (before all the high-rises appeared), then shifted it over to the odd shiny-commercial-office-land that is Exchange Quay, then took it almost entirely remote to trudge through the pandemic.
Inside Lupo in PrestwichAperitivo hour at Lupo in PrestwichRigatoni amatriciana at Lupo in Prestwich
At one point, Caffè Lupo existed mostly on WhatsApp, with customers texting in their orders ready for a doorstep drop on a Friday night.
But now the large-ish commercial unit is its main business, and it’s a special one.
ADVERTISEMENT
You are greeted, always, with a friendly wave, then given the sort of service where you’re very gently guided to order all the best things on the menu that day, feeling like you’ll personally offend Nico if you order differently and stray from his recommendations. Thankfully it’s pretty easy to trust this man.
We kick off with a couple of Aperol spritz, included in Lupo’s aperitivo offer, which means they arrive with nibbles. So far, so Italian.
There’s a dinky bowl of salted crisps, a tiny calzone each, and a pizzetti with a scrape of tomato sauce on top of a sweet, soft pizza dough.
It’s extremely hard for me to see amatriciana on a menu and not order it – so I don’t try. One bowl of rigatoni amatriciana for me, and make it cheesy.
Lupo’s classic tiramisu doughnutsThat show-stopping mille feuille
This is a textbook example of the deceptively simple pasta dish. Fatty guanciale cooked right down so that all that delicious pork fat melts into the tomatoes, then it’s seasoned with, I presume, several generations of secrets and love from Italian nonnas.
ADVERTISEMENT
The sweet, salty, meaty sauce is available on a pizza too, which will be top of my list next time I visit.
Across the table it’s an order of Roman-style pizza, a white base covered in a mountain of parma ham, rocket, fior di latte mozzarella, and shavings of parmesan.
If you can come to Lupo and walk away without ordering something sweet from the counter, you’re a stronger person than me.
They’re famed for their doughnuts (rightly), with bouncy dough filled with flavours including pistachio cream, lemon, and homemade jams.
Also displayed in neat rows are fruit tarts with a glossy glaze, towering cream cakes in neat layers, and puff pastry cannoncini.
ADVERTISEMENT
But Nico is adamant, absolutely adamant, that we order a slice of his mille feuille. It’s a sell-out, he says. We’re lucky he even has some in stock, he tells us. Who are we to argue?
And if you’ve made it this far, just stop reading right now, get in the damn car and go get yourself a slice before it sells out again.
Layers of lighter-than-air homemade pastry are sandwiched together with delicately sweet cream, and it’s good enough to bring a tear to your eye.
We leave with a doughnut in a box too, so that we at least have a snack if we get completely lost finding our way back out of the industrial estate.
As we head into summer, I’m fully expecting Lupo’s popularity to grow and grow, thanks to its huge outside dining space.
Michelin guide Prestwich restaurant Osma announces heartbreaking closure
Daisy Jackson
ADVERTISEMENT
Osma, a beautiful, Michelin-recommended restaurant in Prestwich, has announced its closure next month.
The Scandi-esque restaurant has been a front-runner of Prestwich’s ever-growing food and drink scene since it opened in 2020.
Fronted by Manchester born Danielle Heron, who you might recognise from the Great British Menu and MasterChef: The Professionals 2024, alongside Sofie Stoermann-Naess.
Osma has been a favourite among Prestwich locals over the last five years, famed for its inventive small plates and delicious Sunday roasts – but now its time in the suburb has come to an end.
In a statement shared online, Osma said that they have ‘struggled to find experience staff, leaving us with little to no personal life’.
The restaurant has teased a move into the city centre, where it’s hoped the business will be more sustainable and ready to grow.
“This is by no means the end of Osma,” they wrote.
Their kitchen at Exhibition in the city centre will remain open even after Osma in Prestwich closes on Sunday 9 February.
Osma in Prestwich has announced its closure. Credit: Instagram, @osmakitchenbar
Other food and drink businesses in the village have all been sharing farewell messages, with The Pearl commenting: “Prestwich’s foodie foundations will be very wobbly without the OG cornerstone that welcomed the ‘foodie neighbourhood’ accolades. Good luck in town both, we’ll definitely come and visit the new place.”
Whole Bunch Wines, formerly known as Grape to Grain, said: “Absolutely devastating news for Prestwich. A HUGE loss but a sign of their quality that they’re forced to move.”
Osma’s full statement reads: “Neighbours & Friends. We’ve spoken with some of you already, but it’s time to make it official. It’s with a heavy heart, but excitement for the future, that we have decided to close our Prestwich restaurant ahead of a move to the city centre.
“Being fully transparent – we’ve struggled to find experienced staff, leaving us with little to no personal life. We have made the decision to move on to what we hope will be a more sustainable business that can grow, and allow us more time to follow our dreams. This is by no means the end of OSMA.
“We’re optimistic, but it’s bittersweet. After (almost!) five years we have met so many amazing and incredible people, who we’re proud to call our friends and OSMA family. So many of you have kept coming back week after week – we feel honoured and so grateful for your company. There have been hard days over the years and your kindness, patience and good moods have made such an impact on us to keep pushing forward. Thank you! 🙏🏼
“Of course, we wouldn’t be able to do what we do without our one-of-a-kind staff. Your efforts make OSMA what it is. Even when so understaffed, you all keep moving and help each other get through the day as a team. There’s not many of you, but what you guys can achieve is incredible!
“Lastly, we want to thank our landlord, Tony Freeman, for taking a risk on two 26-year-old girls wanting to open a restaurant. OSMA wouldn’t be here today without him believing in us. You will live on in our memory forever.
“Our last day of service will be Sunday, 9th February. Bookings are open now and we’d love to see as many of you as possible before we go. Stay tuned on our socials as we’ll be throwing a leaving party, too.
“A little housekeeping… gift cards bought after the 9th of Feb 2024 may be refunded to the original payment method, or extended to use at our new site (to be valid for one year after the opening date). Our Kitchen at Exhibition on Peter Street will also remain open as usual, so please don’t be a stranger.
“We appreciate every single one of you… and we’ll be back before you know it! Love Dani & Fie x”
Quiet Corners: The Fox and Pine – Oldham’s proper good pub that feels like someone’s front room
Danny Jones
ADVERTISEMENT
Our search for Greater Manchester’s cosiest pubs is never-ending, especially when it’s cold and grey outside as it often is around these parts, and we recently stumbled across a corker over in Oldham.
Let us introduce you to The Fox and Pine: a brilliant little boozer sat quietly on the corner of Greaves Street, an otherwise unsuspecting road just a block over from the main high street.
You’ll first spot it by the old-school lantern and hanging baskets placed outside, then by the door itself which bears the pitch-perfect British pub name pressed into a metal plate across what we assume (and certainly hope) is a pine door.
Its decorative but modest frontage is just a teaser of what’s to come as once you open that front door, you enter into a world of knick-knacks, bric-à-brac, sports memorabilia and more fox-related ornaments than you could possibly imagine.
The Fox and Pine pub in Oldham has all the charm as its name would suggest. (Credit: The Manc Group)
Opened in 2020 by Michelle and Chris Riley, the distinctive Oldham pub was named in honour of their two beloved football clubs, with Michelle born in Leceister (The Foxes) and Chris an Oldham Athletic fan (who were once known as Pine Villa), but the story behind the site itself gets even more interesting.
Although it is now an award-winning watering hole – having been voted CAMRA’s Greater Manchester ‘Pub of the Year’ three years on the foxtrot, among a number of other accolades – the location was previously used for local AA (Alcoholics Anonymous) meetings.
Now, while we obviously fully support anyone’s journey to sobriety, we’ll confess we’re quite pleased that it’s now become somewhere that not only serves alcohol but champions real ale, specifically, with an ever-rotating lineup from around Greater Manchester, Lancashire and beyond.
Better yet this isn’t a place that gives off binge-drinking but rather one that proudly embraces the undeniable sense of community that a really good, welcoming pub can give small towns like this.
Spanning two floors, both of which are decked out like a warm and quintessentially British family home, the Latics blue glow of the bar quickly catches your eye as you scan the various pumps of cask ale, stout, cider and lager – all of which the staff and customers alike have a good knowledge of.
A brûlée-flavoured number appeared to be the favourite on the day we popped in and it’s nice to see a genuinely friendly, engaging exchange between pourer and punter rather than just a transaction. The longer we lingered there the more nods to the local footy and rugby culture we found too.
A luminous sign reading ‘Yeds’ looms above the bar, referring to the local rugby supporters club that gathers there on matchdays; jerseys, scarves and more adorn the rest of it and much of the surrounding walls, but turn your head to the right and the vibe shifts from pub to what feels like a front room.
Twinkling with fairy lights and soft candlelight on each table is the main seating area, complete with framed pictures of local dogs (we’re talking dozens), a telly for the sport and a faux fireplace but one that still effectively serves as the hearth of the room for people to gather around and be merry.
Credit: The Manc Group
Once again, the whole room feels more like someone’s house than it does a pub and the same goes for when you head upstairs, where you’ll find two more seating areas. Between the fox-themed wallpaper, general decor and another mantlepiece, the only things that feel pubby are the tables and a dartboard.
In fact, we think it’s the little creature comforts and personalised touches that really set this place apart. Be it the hair gel, aftershave and even beard oil left free to use in the bathroom, or the various homemade pasties being served on tiny chopping boards downstairs, it feels delightfully intimate.
Not only were locals keeping a tab of whose round it was from across the room even if they weren’t sat together, but there was even a sign seemingly left out to reserve a corner table for their oldest regulars who seemed to know everyone – and we get the feeling they don’t have to book.
There are live music and comedy nights throughout the week too, should you desire some entertainment beyond good company and whatever game’s on the box, but we’ll be honest: we were quite happy just nestling up in the corner, nattering over a proper pint and getting to know the familiar faces.
When the air does get a bit warmer outside, there’s also a garden area waiting out back and they even turn space out front into a small beer garden terrace as well.
That being said, it is the undeniably cosy interior that we fell in love, so much so that we ended up spending pretty much the entire day there.
It’s been a minute since we’ve been truly swept up in the effortless magic of a pub like this and those who already frequent in don’t need reminding that it’s got a real gem here – they’re proud of it and we dare say a lot spend the majority of their time in here.
So, the next time you’re over Oldham way and in need of a quiet corner to cosy up in, or just fancy a decent pub to whet the whistle, you won’t go far wrong with The Fox and Pine.
Daisy Jackson -
16th June 2023 
