Over in Manchester’s Green Quarter, there is a charming restaurant serving up some of the best pasta in the city.
Called The Sparrows, last week it was revealed as one of the new additions to the prestigious Michelin Guide – a recognition that’s truly well deserved.
Long beloved by Manchester foodies, it takes its name from its signature dish, spätzle: a thick, irregularly-shaped pasta so named because its dough looks like birds in flight when scraped, wet, from the board straight into a boiling pan of water.
One-half of the couple behind the restaurant, Chef Franco Concli, hails from Trentino in the north of Italy where dishes often share influences with neighbouring Germany, Austria and Switzerland.
The other, Kasia Hitchcock, was born in Poland close to the Ukrainian border, where dumplings are a comforting part of the food culture.
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It makes sense, then, that on the menu you’ll find plump handmade pierogi and pelimeni dumplings stuffed with the likes of cottage cheese and potato, mushroom and homemade sauerkraut, listed alongside gnocchi, pappardelle, tortelli, and the pasta that started it all, spätzle.
The kase spätzle is a must-order dish at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
The pasta dish from which The Sparrows takes its name. / Image: The Manc Eats
One of the beauties of the menu here, specials aside, is that you pick your own pasta and sauce combination. Sauce options include butter and sage, tomato, guanciale, and bolognese, but the must-order dish, the one I always go back to, is the kase spätzle.
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Essentially a grown-up, Germanic version of mac and cheese, think fresh egg noodles enveloped in creamy gruyere and Emmental cheese sauce, with braised onions adding a touch of sweetness. It’s a Swabian specialty but also very popular in Germany, Switzerland, and now Manchester too.
As for the bar, there is an enticing list of low-intervention Germanic and Polish wines, plus a strong sake menu.
Before The Sparrows, Kasia’s sake company supplied Umezushi. Now sadly closed, it was once Manchester’s best sushi restaurant and a key player in helping the couple get their start up here.
Pierogi dumplings at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
Pappardelle with chorizo, cherry tomato, spinach and cream at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
Owners had recently converted the archways opposite into prep kitchens, and it was here in 2019 that it all began, with dumplings and spätzle served in a tiny arch that seated twelve at a push.
Needless to say, after a rave from Jay Rayner in The Guardian the restaurant quickly outgrew Mirabel Street and moved to a new, bigger arch no more than five or ten minutes walk away.
As time has gone on, its settings and service have become undeniably sleeker. Its menu, however, has stayed pretty much the same – including its low prices.
On my first ever visit in the summer of 2019, I think my friend and I spent just over £50 on a three course meal with wine. This time, a plate of spätzle is still only £10.50 shared between two of us.
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Given everything that’s going on in the restaurant industry, and the fact that I recently saw a far inferior plate of pasta listed at £16.50 in another Manchester restaurant, it’s a very pleasant surprise.
The daily special, tortelli stuffed with butternut squash with an amaretti biscuit crumb. Image: The Manc Eats
The menu at The Sparrows is still amazingly good value despite its ever-growing prestige. / Image: The Manc Eats
As it ever was, the staples are still there: gnocchi and spätzle, pappardelle and a daily special, available to order with your sauce of choice from just £8 a plate.
We also try one of the specials, starting our meal sweet with tortell stuffed with butternut squash and seasoned with the almond crunch of an amaretti crumb.
Add to that long ribbons of pappardelle with an indulgent mix of chorizo, cherry tomato, spinach and cream, a small plate of fresh and fragrant dill-fermented cucumbers, and an excellent bottle of Teliana Valley orange wine, and suffice to say our table was a very happy one indeed.
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The house pierogi still come stuffed with the same choices of potato and cottage cheese, or sauerkraut and mushroom, and popular sides of salted rosemary focaccia and sauerkraut are correct and present, priced from £3.75.
Even better, dumplings can be ‘mixed and matched’ at the chef’s discretion – a good option if you can’t decideon your order and want to try a bit of everything.
Inside The Sparrows on Red Bank. / Image: The Manc Eats
Dill-fermented cucumbers at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
As for the dessert menu, there’s still the sweet spätzle with cinnamon butter and brown sugar, as well as Daz’s wife’s brownie (Daz being their postman), although I regret to report I overindulged so immensely on the savoury portion of the meal I was too far gone to contemplate a pudding.
The restaurant itself is chic and stylish, with statement lighting fixtures and tall glass windows looking into an open kitchen. But the real marvel is what comes out on your plate.
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No doubt it will soon be inundated with new fans, as it should be. Run, don’t walk, whilst you can still get a table. This really is some of the best pasta in town.
Feature image – The Manc Eats
Eats
Northern Quarter craft beer bar Fierce Bar announces sudden closure
Thomas Melia
A much loved independent craft beer bar in the heart of the Northern Quarter is set to close before the end of the year.
Fierce Bar, which opened in Manchester city centre in 2020, has been a firm favourite for Mancs and visitors alike with their range of beers and IPAs.
The Fierce Beer company has established itself as a leading force within the beer community winning ‘Scottish Brewery of the Year in 2021’ and numerous Scottish Beer Awards.
Their wide range of drink flavours pay homage to varieties from the USA and offered people who frequented their Thomas Street site in the Northern Quarter were treated to a refreshing taste of the transatlantic.
The Thomas Street bar had previously been home to 57 Thomas Street, a bar operated by Marble Brewery, which also operates The Marble Arch.
In a post on social media which opens with, “Some sad news…”, the company have stated: “We face continually spiralling costs that unfortunately mean it’s going to be unsustainable to continue operating the venue viably going forward”.
There’s still some hope as beer brand have also announced: “This is not the end for Fierce Beer south of the border though; we’re continuing to keep an eye on the market and aim to get back as soon as we can with a new physical location.”
Anyone wanting to continue the bar’s legacy in Manchester can sport the indie establishment’s range of t-shirts, hats and funky glasses, some of which adorned the walls.
Being a Scottish born and bred brewery, if you’re still after your alcohol fix, you can still visit their two other locations in Edinburgh and Aberdeen next time you’re heading up north.
The last day of trade for Fierce Bar will be 20 December where the founders Dave and Louise will be heading to the Manchester site say a sad goodbye.
As it will be the final night of service ever, the team are urging anyone to pop down for a pint or two to commemorate the Manchester home.
It’s a shame to see such a well-used city centre social space shutting its doors, however Fierce Beer loyalists fear not as their online website is still very much alive and thriving here.
Six By Nico launches tasting menu inspired by Christmas dinner
Daisy Jackson
Everyone’s favourite affordable tasting menu restaurant, Six By Nico, has announced its first-ever festive Sunday roast menu.
The beloved restaurant group, which now has two locations in Manchester, is famed for serving creative and interesting tasting menus, but at a much more accessible price than other fine dining establishments – just £44 a head.
Then you can add on extra snacks, perfectly-paired wine flights, and even matching cocktails.
At Six By Nico, the inspiration is always changing, whether the menus bring a sense of nostalgia, memories of a much-loved book or film, or whisk you away across the globe with dishes inspired by another country’s cuisine.
Previous menus have included The Chippy Tea, Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, and The Mad Hatter’s Tea Party.
Six By Nico switches up its six-course tasting menus every six weeks, keeping customers coming back time and time again for the next adventurous experience.
And one of the best things is the flexibility that these tasting menus have, catering for vegans, veggies, pescatarians and more. You can even mix and match courses across tasting menus to suit your mood and dietary requirements.
Inside one of Six By Nico’s two Manchester restaurants. Credit: The Manc Group
The next menu that has had us clicking ‘book’ at the speed of light is Six By Nico’s first-ever Festive Sunday Roast menu, with six courses and a cocktail pairing.
The new Six By Nico tasting menu features all the flavours of Christmas Day, presented in creative and exciting ways.
For example, your evening will begin with ‘Pigs in Blankets’ (pork pressé, Sauerkraut, burnt onion and grain mustard), as well as a Brussels Sprouts-inspired course that used barbecue hispi cabbage, aged ewe’s cheese, pickled mushrooms and black garlic emulsion.
For the main event it’s the Three Bird Roast – duck, chicken and turkey ballotine, liver parfait, honey glazed carrot and Madeira jus.
And you’d be remiss not to add the Ultimate Yorkshire Pudding on as an extra, made with pork and sage stuffing and sauce charcuterie.
Chocolate Profiteroles on the Six By Nico festive roast menu. Credit: SuppliedThe Six By Nico Christmas dinner-inspired tasting menu features Baked Brie De Meaux, homemade mince pie and Peckhams pearAnother dish on the Six By Nico Christmas dinner-inspired festive menu
Course five is Baked Brie De Meaux, homemade mince pie and Peckhams pear, then to finish Six By Nico has Chocolate Profiteroles, Tahitian vanilla Choux au Craquelin, chocolate Cremeux, buttermilk sorbet and dulce de leche.
In a second brand-first, Six by Nico Manchester has created a perfectly matched cocktail pairing to accompany the six-course tasting menu (£40pp) which includes six cocktails including an Apple and Dill Martini.
It’s just another example of the way Six By Nico keeps pushing the game forward.
Andrew Temple, Chief Creative Officer, spoke of the menu’s festive twist: “The response to our Sunday Roast menu has been incredible, and we wanted to capture that excitement in a way that complements the holiday season.
“Extending the Sunday Roast with a festive version not only celebrates the British classic but adds a layer of excitement in the build up to the Festive season.
“We’re looking forward to sharing this seasonal reimagining with our guests, bringing them both the comfort and joy of the festive period.”
The Festive Sunday Roast is £44 per person, with an additional wine pairing available for £30, or a matched cocktail pairing for £40. It’s available to book every Sunday from 24 November until 5 January HERE.
Georgina Pellant -
5th February 2023 
