You really don’t have to travel far from Manchester to find yourself surrounded by rolling hills and lush fields. It’s one of the best things about living here.
And without even leaving Greater Manchester, you can find yourself in a land full of postcard-perfect villages, twisting country lanes, and cosy pubs – this is, of course, Saddleworth.
You’ll find glassy reservoirs, chocolate box villages, canals teeming with life, sweeping landscapes and bags more character here.
From Uppermill with its trendy high street full of bars and restaurants, to Delph nestled right down in the valley, there’s something to catch your eye.
We’ve been back over to Saddleworth to put together this handy guide to its best restaurants, things to do, cafes, bars, and loads more.
Food and drink
Greene’s BistroAlbion Farm ShopGrandpa Greene’s
Albion Farm Shop and Cafe – This charming spot is worth the drive over to Saddleworth on its own. Food miles are pretty much wiped off the plate, with almost everything made on site with ingredients from Saddleworth. Expect seriously hearty farmer’s breakfasts, plus sandwiches on freshly baked farmhouse bread, giant burgers, rag puddings, cakes, and pies.
Grandpa Greene’s – Grandpa Greene’s ice cream is so legendary that during lockdown (when people were restricted to takeaways only), the queues forming outside literally stopped traffic. Their luxury ice cream pops up in restaurants all over the north west, but at its picturesque home on the canal you’ll find the full range of flavours, as well as pancakes, afternoon teas, and sandwiches.
Greene’s Bistro – From the same team as Grandpa Greene’s comes Greene’s Bistro, converting an old public toilet block in Uppermill into a beautiful, sun-soaked cafe and restaurant. Here they’ve really expanded their savoury offering, with huge brunches, massive hot sandwiches, small plates, loaded fries, and flatbreads.
The Old Bell Inn – Not only is it home to a record-breaking selection of gin, The Old Bell Inn is also a properly decent country pub. We’re talking top-notch Sunday roasts, pies and puddings, steaks, burgers and hand-cut chunky chips.
Kobe – Bang in the middle of Uppermill’s bustling high street, Kobe is the spot to come for fantastic coffee, epic sandwiches, and hearty brunches, all served in a beautiful space filled with natural wood and plenty of light. They’ve even got a huge dining space out the back with a retractable roof for sunnier days.
Kobe in Uppermill, SaddleworthThe Old Bell Inn pubDelph in Delve, Saddleworth
Weaver and Wilde – Arguably some of the best coffee in the region is being brewed at Weaver and Wilde – it’s roasted down the road then made with milk from a dairy herd grazing on Saddleworth grass. You can grab brunch, lunch and cakes here as well as your caffeine fix. Over in Greenfield, they also have Blackbird & Wilde (currently closed for a refurb), which is the go-to spot locally for pizza.
Diggle Lock – Diggle Lock is one of the hottest hangouts in the north west, never mind in Saddleworth, turning an old textile mill into a daytime restaurant and pantry store. The team is focused on serving up ‘city centre sophistication’ in the beautiful countryside, with a menu of massive brunches and sandwiches, excellent coffee and cocktails. You can even order dog-friendly sides, like peanut butter or black pudding, for your pooch.
Delve – The team from Diggle Lock last year branched out into Delph, opening a gorgeous neighbourhood bar and bistro in an old bank. On the ground floor it’s all dark wood and cosy, while upstairs is a pretty brunch space with huge windows. The menu is packed full of small and big plates with highlights like a Dutch puff (it’s basically a baked pancake/sweet Yorkshire pudding with lashings of pistachio on it), loaded croissants, and gochujang halloumi.
The White Hart – For a pint with a view, The White Hart at Lydgate is arguably the best in the UK. This brilliant gastropub has earned plenty of critical acclaim for its food, but it still keeps the cosy community spirit of a village pub (complete with real ales, a roaring fire, and a lengthy wine list).
Shopping
The Old Cobblers in GreenfieldThe Old Cobblers in GreenfieldLauren Beth Medical Aesthetics & Beauty
Uppermill in particular is an absolute hive of independent business, from local produce to clothing to gifts, and 10/10 charity shops.
There’s Authentic, which describes itself as a treasure trove of artisan products; Puddleducks, which sells beautiful children’s clothing; and ‘slow fashion’ boutique Suki’s Wardrobe.
You can pick up wines and spirits from Saddleworth Wine Vault or squeeze into the lovely Towpath Book Shop, sandwiched into a tiny building on the high street.
The Reclamation Room is a vibrant creative space and cafe for the community, where you can buy art from local artists straight off the walls.
Over in Delph, we’re very excited to see the doors to The Frostery Living’s store open, with a space filled with homewares and other lifestyle bits from the best makers across the UK and Europe.
Then another must-visit across in Greenfield is The Old Cobblers, which sells natural wine, craft beer, great coffee and a range of locally-made gifts, with no corkage should you want to neck your bottle of wine on the seats outside.
If you’re wanting to go out dancing into the wee small hours, you’ll probably need to head a bit further towards Oldham town centre.
Having said that, the pubs here are usually buzzing into the evening, and Muse in Uppermill is open past midnight (with cocktail deals, DJs to go with your Sunday roast, and some occasional celeb spotting).
On the last Sunday of every month, the Off The Rails Comedy Club pulls up at The Royal George in Greenfield.
When it comes to accommodation, you’re spoilt for choice.
Two beautiful Airbnbs in Saddleworth. Credit: Airbnb
You can stay in several of the aforementioned pubs – like the Old Bell Inn and The White Hart – or rest your head in one of many beautiful cottages around Saddleworth.
This converted barn, complete with huge arched window, wooden beams, and loads of outside space, is pretty special too.
Culture
The canals in UppermillDovestone Reservoir in Saddleworth
In a corner of Greater Manchester as picturesque as this, the great outdoors really is the best place to spend your spare time.
You can take a leisurely stroll or cycle along the many waterways, walk the perimeter of Dovestone Reservoir, or tackle the more challenging beauty spot above it (but be careful on this one, as more than a few walkers have come into trouble on the route).
The Yanks weekend is usually a staple of Saddleworth’s cultural calendar, transporting the area back to the 1940s complete with entertainment, costume, vehicles and a parade.
You’ll also find a jazz festival, a blues festival, an art week, a traditional Rushcart and loads more things going on throughout the year.
Saddleworth Museum & Gallery is well worth a visit, and Uppermill Library is housed in one of the most beautiful buildings in the area.
Property
Considering how beautiful and green Saddleworth it, there’s still a lot of relatively affordable property to be found (especially when you compare it to leafy suburbs like Altrincham and Didsbury).
According to the Land Registry, the average property price over the last year was £295,405, with the majority of homes sold being terraced houses.
On the market currently you’ll find something at all ends of the budget spectrum.
Transport
Of all the villages in Saddleworth, Greenfield is the one that’s best-served by public transport.
The Transpennine Express train from Manchester to Huddersfield stops off here fairly regularly.
For the rest of Saddleworth, you’ll be reliant on buses to get around, like the 350 bus which helpfully weaves its way through Greenfield, Uppermill and Delph – and even stops right outside the Albion Farm Shop and Cafe.
Featured image: The Manc Group
Feature
Review | Sam Fender headlines an unforgettable night at Wythenshawe Park
Harry Quick
In the beating green heart of South Manchester, Sam Fender delivered a night for the books at Wythenshawe Park – swapping the safety of arenas for something far more raw and electric under the open sky.
The Geordie hero – now a household name and one of Britain’s most beloved live acts – took to the stage with the confidence of someone who’s played stadiums, but the humility of a lad still jamming with his mates in a garage. And if you thought he’d rest on the hits, think again.
But before he unleashed his arsenal of chart-toppers, support from Bugman, Charlie Noordewier, and Olivia Dean warmed things up. Dean was the name on everyone’s lips, with an almost sell-out capacity turning up for the East London star who released her latest track ‘Man I Need’ on the same day.
Hits like ‘Nice To Each Other’ and ‘Dive’ got people in the swing, but – it has to be said – there was a glaring omission of ‘Rein Me In’, Sam Fender’s tune which featured Dean on an updated chorus! I think when people were heading for the exits at the end of the night, some stayed in their spots waiting for the inevitable classic that never came…
Sam Fender sounded great in the open air of Wythenshawe Park. (Credit: Audio North)
A track from his 2021 album got us going with ‘Angel in Lothian’ opening the show for the very first time – a bold move, but the right one. Fender, bathed in flashbulbs, delivered the track with aching intensity, and from the first note, Wythenshawe knew it was in for something special. No crowd warm-up needed. They were going for it tonight.
Then came the EP sledgehammer: ‘Spice’. The pit ignited. Flares. Flying pints. Lads and ladies on shoulders. Chaos in the best possible sense. Fender grinned, clearly feeding off the Manc crowd’s energy. “It’s good to be back, Manchester!” he shouted. And we believed him.
‘Will We Talk?’ and ‘Getting Started’ kept the tempo going for the opening of the set – indie anthems bouncing off the trees like echoes from another era. Then came ‘Arm’s Length’, pulling things inward, a slower riff from the most recent People Watching album, and definitely a fan favourite, as evidenced by the number of streams.
A reminder that Fender’s strength lies not only in volume, but can also pull out his softer side.
But in my eyes, it was ‘The Borders’ that provided the most memorable moment of the night. Mid-song, Sam invited a young fan, guitar in hand, on stage. Together, they nailed the song’s dramatic crescendo that speaks about Fender’s homelife growing up. Thousands watched, phone lights up, cheering on a moment that’ll surely live in that kid’s head forever.
No ‘Rein Me In’, ‘The Dying Light’ and no ‘Remember My Name’ was gutting, we’ll admit. (Credit:The Manc)
More People Watching material followed, including the haunting ‘Crumbling Empire’, giving us shades of Springsteen, which landed with a weight that silenced even the chattiest of crowd members. Then, halfway through the set, ‘Dead Boys’ brought it all crashing back – Fender’s OG storytelling at its most harrowing, the crowd singing every word with defiant pride. One of my all-time favourites!
As dusk gave way to darkness, ‘People Watching’ and the thunderous new single ‘Tyrants’ brought a fresh edge. Fender was in his element, throwing himself into each lyric like it was the last song he’d ever play.
But the true peak? ‘Howdon Aldi Death Queue’, with its extended outro! It’s jaw-droppingly good. I’m calling it the North East’s equivalent to ‘Free Bird’, and those comparisons can’t be named lightly. The guitar solo roared across the park like a jet engine, Hendrix by way of North Shields, with saxophones soaring and the band absolutely letting rip. It was glorious noise. Controlled chaos. Pure rock.
Just when you thought he’d played every card, ‘Alright’ made its tour debut. The crowd reacted like it was an old friend returning home. It fit seamlessly – big, bold and born to be played live.
And then, the emotional punch: ‘Spit of You’, a quiet and tender account of a relationship between dad and lad, before the inevitable eruption of ‘Seventeen Going Under’ to close. Undeniably one of his best tunes, it literally takes you back to traversing adolescence, standing in a park, drinking tinnies, listening to your favourite music… oh wait!
Just when the dust seemed to settle, Fender and the band returned one last time for a thunderous encore. And what better way to close out a legendary night than with ‘Hypersonic Missiles’; pyrotechnics blazing, confetti raining down, and the Geordie hero grinning from ear to ear as he stood arms-wide in front of a sky full of stars and a crowd full of love.
Sam Fender at Wythenshawe Park wasn’t just another tour date. It was a love letter to the North, to music, to the fans that got him here – and to the ones still screaming every lyric just like we do in our bedrooms.
Let’s hope the park’s grass recovers. We might need it again next summer.
Lupo Caffe Italiano – a taste of sunny Rome on a Prestwich industrial estate
Daisy Jackson
The sun is beating down on you, there’s a couple of luminous orange Aperol Spritzes on the checked tablecloth, Italian pop music is trickling out over the speakers and you’ve got two heaping bowls of pasta on the way.
The setting could easily be a cobbled street in front of the Colosseum in Rome. But it’s not. It’s an industrial estate in Prestwich.
Lupo must be one of Greater Manchester’s most hidden gems in a very literal sense.
To get here, you have to drive or walk a strange looping circuit around industrial warehouses peddling everything from splashbacks to burglar alarms to grow tents.
One of these warehouses, located in the very furthest yard, looks a little different to the others, festooned with bunches of garlic and dried herbs strung up from the ceiling.
There are shelves full of pasta, sauces and even crisps, a fridge packed with delicious Italian wines and beers, and retro football shirt-inspired merch hanging from the walls.
Its awkward location does nothing to hold back its loyal customers, who repeatedly return for the authentic taste of Rome on offer here.
Lupo is operated by Nico Pasquali, who first ran it as a tiny Italian cafe on Chapel Street in Salford (before all the high-rises appeared), then shifted it over to the odd shiny-commercial-office-land that is Exchange Quay, then took it almost entirely remote to trudge through the pandemic.
Lupo’s charming interiorsNico has added outside seating to LupoThe pasticceria selection at Lupo
At one point, Caffè Lupo existed mostly on WhatsApp, with customers texting in their orders ready for a doorstep drop on a Friday night.
But now the large-ish commercial unit is its main business, and it’s a special one.
You are greeted, always, with a friendly wave, then given the sort of service where you’re very gently guided to order all the best things on the menu that day, feeling like you’ll personally offend Nico if you order differently and stray from his recommendations. Thankfully it’s pretty easy to trust this man.
It’s extremely hard for me to see amatriciana on a menu and not order it – so I don’t try. One bowl of rigatoni amatriciana for me, and make it cheesy.
This is a textbook example of the deceptively simple pasta dish. Fatty guanciale cooked right down so that all that delicious pork fat melts into the tomatoes, then it’s seasoned with, I presume, several generations of secrets and love from Italian nonnas.
Rigatoni amatriciana, and fennel sausage orecchietteA spread of Lupo’s Italian foodPepernata – Nico’s mum’s recipeThe Pizza Lupo
The sweet, salty, meaty sauce is available on a pizza too, which will be top of my list next time I visit.
Across the table it’s a special (but it’s been on the menu for a while now) of orecchiette with fennel sausage and romanesco broccoli.
Nico tells us a customer once refused to pay for this dish because it wasn’t ‘saucy’ enough. Heathen.
That’s the running theme with Lupo – don’t come here expecting Neapolitan pizzas, or flat whites, or hot honey dips for your pizza crusts. It isn’t the Roman way, and Nico isn’t about to veer away from his proud roots to mould into any passing fads or trends.
If you’re after authenticity and tradition though, this is comfortably the top Italian in Greater Manchester.
If you can come to Lupo and walk away without ordering something sweet from the counter, you’re a stronger person than me.
PasticceriaOwner NicoLupo’s famous millefoglie
They’re famed for their doughnuts (rightly), with bouncy dough filled with flavours including pistachio cream, lemon, and homemade jams.
Also displayed in neat rows are fruit tarts with a glossy glaze, towering cream cakes in neat layers, and puff pastry cannoncini.
But Nico is adamant, absolutely adamant, that we order a slice of his millefoglie. It’s a sell-out, he says. We’re lucky he even has some in stock, he tells us. Who are we to argue?
And if you’ve made it this far, just stop reading right now, get in the damn car and go get yourself a slice before it sells out again.
Layers of lighter-than-air homemade pastry are sandwiched together with delicately sweet cream, hints of almond throughout, and it’s good enough to bring a tear to your eye.
We leave with a doughnut in a box too, so that we at least have a snack if we get completely lost finding our way back out of the industrial estate.
Daisy Jackson -
20th January 2025 
