Four Manchester-born eateries have been named as some of the best in the world right nowby the Observer in its esteemed Top 50 list.
Bundobust, Trove, Yakumama and The Landing all feature in the prestigious foodie guide, which lays out the national paper’s favourite food highlights for 2022.
In the list of 50 things we love in the world of food right now, a group of ten critics for the paper pick out the fifty things they love most in the world of food right now – and Manchester has done pretty well.
Image: Bundobust
Newly reborn from the ashes of the pandemic as a family-friendly pizza parlour, former bar-restaurant Common gets an honourable mention in the list for its changing attitude to dining-in.
And Manchester Art Gallery is also given a nod, as the Observer praises ex-Masterchef contestant Adam Leavy for his ” quality sandwiches”.
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Keep reading to discover what the critics had to say about the rest.
Trove Bakery
Tony Naylor highlights Trove bakery’s chorizo sausage roll, calling the search for the definitive roll “a life’s work.” We completely agree.
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Trove baker Ruth Gwillim, Naylor writes, is no stranger to “moments of revelation” but her latest creation might just be the most revelatory yet.
Image: Trove
She has created a “sausage roll for the ages” – combining chorizo and sausage meat with French butter pastry, its filling peppered with fennel seeds.
“Where most sausage rolls cool and congeal into a stodgy lump, this sings even at room temperature,” he writes ebulliently.
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Bundobust Brewery
Vegetarian and vegan street food favourites Bundobust also feature prominently, except this time the focus is on its new Manchester brewery restaurant.
Read more:Bundobust has been secretly brewing its own beer in Manchester for eight months
Housed in a 100-year-old Grade II-listed building on Oxford Road, it boasts a custom-built 10-hectolitre facility capable of producing 20,000 pints a month – not to mention a talented head brewer in Dan Hocking, formerly of Uiltje.
Image: Bundobust
Naylor writes: “Good beer is essential to Bundobust: Bradford-born owners Marko Husak and Mayur Patel first bonded over the emerging craft beer scene of the early 2010s.
“Its IPAs and sours became the ideal foil for Patel’s food – meat-free Gujarati family recipes updated for the street-food generation”.
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Yakumama
Billed as “offering respite from the restaurant industry’s frothiest excesses”, this Manchester food truck turned restaurant in West Yorkshire is showered in praise.
Operated by Hannah Lovett and Marcelo Sandova, the Latin American-inspired cantina serves a short menu of colourful, meat-free small plates – all designed to share.
Image: Yakumama
Naylor is just as enthusiastic about the space (a 19th-century former Co-Op building in Todmorden, situatedon the border of West Yorkshire and Manchester) as he is the menu, writing:
“Beyond its ornate 19th-century frontage the airy dining room is fairly plain. There are plants. Art. Nothing showy.”
He continues: “The Andean-style crisp potatoes with kalamata olive sauce, smoked paprika oil and pickled peppers, topped with a boiled egg, embodies Yakumama’s imaginative use of vibrant sauces and pickles to create astonishing food.
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“An example of what is possible without meat or lots of money.”
The Landing
Not technically an eatery, more of a kitchen garden, this rooftop allotment opposite Stockport’s Merseyway shopping centre nonetheless still feeds Mancunians – albeit indirectly.
The latest kitchen garden for Where The Light Gets, according to Naylor it was inspired by a 2011 lecture on urban farming held at Manchester international festival and brought to realisation with the help of Manchester Urban Diggers (MUD).
In the summer, the WTLGI team is at the garden daily, uprooting and picking a veritable wealth of produce to create the constantly changing “Landing Plate” as well as coming up with specials, such as a “Stockport saag” made with Landing-grown shisho, spinach and curry leaves.
Image: Where The Light Gets In
Naylor writes: “Here, grower Nick Harlow cultivates, for example, numerous chillies, Andean tubers oca and mashua and “the sweetest” poona kheera cucumbers. “It’s 100% exposed, so it’s red hot up there,” says Buckley. “The greenhouse was 20C [in December].”
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Throwing in Gaggs from Buckley about growing lemongrass above Ann Summers, he also touches on the more serious point of utilising empty spaces for food production as well as flagging plans to host craft workshops and gardening days to “illustrate what is possible in urban environments.”
Feature image – Trove
Eats
Inside The Head of Steam as huge new pub opens in Northern Quarter
Daisy Jackson
The Northern Quarter has a brand-new pub, as The Head of Steam moves into the city centre.
The craft beer brand has taken over what was formerly Cottonopolis (and then briefly the Lamb of Tartary), completely transforming the historic Grade II-listed space.
The Head of Steam has added a huge central bar into the building, surrounded by cosy booths and bar tables, plus six screens showing live sports.
There’s augmented reality darts and a photo booth, plus a VAST range of beers behind the bar, all packed into this 2,800 sq ft space in the heart of the city.
Expect 30 lines (24 keg and 6 cask) of beers, including The Head Of Steam’s own British-brewed range and an extensive selection of Belgian favourites.
And on the food menu, you’ll find USA-style smash burgers and a gigantic sharing platter of sides, from Salford street food favourite That Burger Place – previously named among the top burger joints in the UK.
To celebrate its launch – and to kick off its arrival into the city centre in style – The Head of Steam will be giving away 1,995 free pints.
Craft beer fans will have the chance of winning a free pint of the Head of Steam’s own IPA, Lager, or Gold.
That Burger Place platterThe mozzarella slabBeer and wine flight at The Head of SteamThe Head of Steam in the Northern Quarter
If beer’s not your thing, there’s also a cocktail menu, premium spirits range, and wine list – plus the option to order a beer or wine flight for the beer-curious.
The Head of Steam is set to open later this week, its 16th venue nationwide and second in Greater Manchester.
David Scott, Retail Director at The Head of Steam, said: “We’re incredibly proud to confirm our opening date in the Northern Quarter – it’s one of the most vibrant areas in Manchester and the perfect place to bring our craft beer community together.
“With some fantastic West Coast beers on offer, partnering with That Burger Place, a food brand who share that love for bold West Coast flavours, just made perfect sense.”
Ryan McDermott, Co-Owner of That Burger Place, added: “We’ve always loved The Head of Steam brand. I grew up in pubs as my parents ran several sites, so hospitality has always been in my blood.
“When the opportunity came to bring That Burger Place into The Head of Steam, it was a no-brainer. Working with the team feels like a perfect match, and we can’t wait to share our burgers with Manchester city centre for the first time.”
To sign up for a chance to claim a free pint when The Head Of Steam opens in the Northern Quarter on Friday 28 November, head HERE.
Global sensation Eggslut is FINALLY coming to Manchester
Danny Jones
After waiting what feels like a lifetime, worldwide viral sensation Eggslut is at long last coming to Manchester city centre.
Cracking news (sorry not sorry).
Honestly, there aren’t many big-name food chains that we’ve been waiting to arrive in Manchester longer than Eggslut, which started as little more than a food truck in LA and has gone on to become a truly global giant in the culinary scene.
Set to pop up at Centurion House over on Deansgate, which backs onto Lincoln Square, Eggslut is scheduled to make its Manchester debut very soon.
Literally drooling at the mere thought more than those drips. (Credit: Publicity pictures)
I mean, LOOK at it. Class, just class…
Aiming to launch in the new year, Manc foodies who have been clamouring for the brand’s arrival for more than a decade now will soon be able to get their chops around fan favourites and internet-famous items like the ‘Fairfax’ and ‘Gaucho’ sandwiches, as well as the standard but signature ‘Slut’.
Oh, and yes: having tried various parts of the menu down in London, we can assure you they are just as naughty as they sound – especially those truffle hash browns and those new dippy French toast sticks, which we cannot wait to sample for ourselves.
The video of founder Alvin Cailan talking us through the story behind Eggslut and the secret ‘off-menu’ special order that was so good that people just couldn’t stop forcing it into the mainstream is still one of our most-watched videos of all time.
Not only is this the eighth UK location, but Manchester will also be the first venue in the country outside of the capital.
With the first CGIs of the space having now been shared with the ravenous masses, we confirm it is set to take the place of the existing Starbucks site at the base of the Bruntwood SciTech building.
You can see more down below:
Credit: Supplied
Head of Operations at Eggslut, Pedro Ribeiro, says of the impending opening: “Manchester has been crying out for an Eggslut for too long, and we were only too happy to make that dream a reality.
“The city is the perfect place to bring our kind of breakfast to a brand new area of the UK, and we cannot wait to join such a fast-paced and buzzing food scene.”
Matt Pazos, as for Bruntwood SciTech‘s Retail Commercial Manager, Matt Pazoz, he commented on them taking up residence here: “We’re delighted to be welcoming the first Eggslut outside of London to Manchester and can’t wait for the team to crack open their doors on Deansgate.
“The brand has built a cult following thanks to their delicious chef-driven comfort food, and we know that it will fast become a go-to spot for businesses based in Centurion House as well as locals and visitors to the city.”
Coming to a mouth near you by the end of January 2026.
Georgina Pellant -
22nd February 2022 
