Over in Manchester’s Green Quarter, there is a charming restaurant serving up some of the best pasta in the city.
Called The Sparrows, last week it was revealed as one of the new additions to the prestigious Michelin Guide – a recognition that’s truly well deserved.
Long beloved by Manchester foodies, it takes its name from its signature dish, spätzle: a thick, irregularly-shaped pasta so named because its dough looks like birds in flight when scraped, wet, from the board straight into a boiling pan of water.
One-half of the couple behind the restaurant, Chef Franco Concli, hails from Trentino in the north of Italy where dishes often share influences with neighbouring Germany, Austria and Switzerland.
The other, Kasia Hitchcock, was born in Poland close to the Ukrainian border, where dumplings are a comforting part of the food culture.
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It makes sense, then, that on the menu you’ll find plump handmade pierogi and pelimeni dumplings stuffed with the likes of cottage cheese and potato, mushroom and homemade sauerkraut, listed alongside gnocchi, pappardelle, tortelli, and the pasta that started it all, spätzle.
The kase spätzle is a must-order dish at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
The pasta dish from which The Sparrows takes its name. / Image: The Manc Eats
One of the beauties of the menu here, specials aside, is that you pick your own pasta and sauce combination. Sauce options include butter and sage, tomato, guanciale, and bolognese, but the must-order dish, the one I always go back to, is the kase spätzle.
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Essentially a grown-up, Germanic version of mac and cheese, think fresh egg noodles enveloped in creamy gruyere and Emmental cheese sauce, with braised onions adding a touch of sweetness. It’s a Swabian specialty but also very popular in Germany, Switzerland, and now Manchester too.
As for the bar, there is an enticing list of low-intervention Germanic and Polish wines, plus a strong sake menu.
Before The Sparrows, Kasia’s sake company supplied Umezushi. Now sadly closed, it was once Manchester’s best sushi restaurant and a key player in helping the couple get their start up here.
Pierogi dumplings at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
Pappardelle with chorizo, cherry tomato, spinach and cream at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
Owners had recently converted the archways opposite into prep kitchens, and it was here in 2019 that it all began, with dumplings and spätzle served in a tiny arch that seated twelve at a push.
Needless to say, after a rave from Jay Rayner in The Guardian the restaurant quickly outgrew Mirabel Street and moved to a new, bigger arch no more than five or ten minutes walk away.
As time has gone on, its settings and service have become undeniably sleeker. Its menu, however, has stayed pretty much the same – including its low prices.
On my first ever visit in the summer of 2019, I think my friend and I spent just over £50 on a three course meal with wine. This time, a plate of spätzle is still only £10.50 shared between two of us.
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Given everything that’s going on in the restaurant industry, and the fact that I recently saw a far inferior plate of pasta listed at £16.50 in another Manchester restaurant, it’s a very pleasant surprise.
The daily special, tortelli stuffed with butternut squash with an amaretti biscuit crumb. Image: The Manc Eats
The menu at The Sparrows is still amazingly good value despite its ever-growing prestige. / Image: The Manc Eats
As it ever was, the staples are still there: gnocchi and spätzle, pappardelle and a daily special, available to order with your sauce of choice from just £8 a plate.
We also try one of the specials, starting our meal sweet with tortell stuffed with butternut squash and seasoned with the almond crunch of an amaretti crumb.
Add to that long ribbons of pappardelle with an indulgent mix of chorizo, cherry tomato, spinach and cream, a small plate of fresh and fragrant dill-fermented cucumbers, and an excellent bottle of Teliana Valley orange wine, and suffice to say our table was a very happy one indeed.
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The house pierogi still come stuffed with the same choices of potato and cottage cheese, or sauerkraut and mushroom, and popular sides of salted rosemary focaccia and sauerkraut are correct and present, priced from £3.75.
Even better, dumplings can be ‘mixed and matched’ at the chef’s discretion – a good option if you can’t decideon your order and want to try a bit of everything.
Inside The Sparrows on Red Bank. / Image: The Manc Eats
Dill-fermented cucumbers at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
As for the dessert menu, there’s still the sweet spätzle with cinnamon butter and brown sugar, as well as Daz’s wife’s brownie (Daz being their postman), although I regret to report I overindulged so immensely on the savoury portion of the meal I was too far gone to contemplate a pudding.
The restaurant itself is chic and stylish, with statement lighting fixtures and tall glass windows looking into an open kitchen. But the real marvel is what comes out on your plate.
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No doubt it will soon be inundated with new fans, as it should be. Run, don’t walk, whilst you can still get a table. This really is some of the best pasta in town.
Feature image – The Manc Eats
Eats
French fine dining spot 63 Degrees confirms closure after 14 years
Danny Jones
One of Manchester’s long-standing French bistros, 63 Degrees, has now announced the business has closed its doors for good after nearly a decade and a half in the city centre.
The family-run fine dining destination first opened back in 2011, but after closing over the most recent festive period and despite all of us hoping and praying this year would be a healthier one for hospitality, they have become the sector’s latest casualty.
Having been one of the few classical spots of its kind left in central Manchester, not to mention boasting a spot on the Michelin guide, it’s a huge loss for Manchester food and drink.
The team have been silent on socials since August 2023 and no one needs any reminder of how challenging the industry is right now, so closures like these don’t exactly come as a surprise anymore, but it seems another big factor was at the heart of the decision.
It’s a logo most would instantly recognise.The initial plan was to stay open but it sadly hasn’t worked out.Credit: The Manc Group
Confirming the news to Manchester Confidential, 63 Degrees confirmed that their Christmas hiatus has now become permanent as many had suspected, with the highly-rated Northern Quarter spot closed permanently as of this week.
Founder Alexandre Moreau said that his parents, Head Chef Eric and mother Florence, have now returned to France following a period of ill health.
Speaking to the outlet, Moreau added: “I’m glad my parents have retired now. My dad was spending six days a week in the kitchen and got to the point where his whole body was hurting. He had a hard time finding people he could trust in the kitchen so he could not delegate that much.
“My mum’s health got worse in November last year so they decided it was time to stop and go back to France. Nothing you can do, unfortunately. Life will do that to all of us at some point.”
Revealing that the lease has now been handed over to the landlord, he signed off by stating, “They had a great run, but it’s a difficult job at that age.”
Shining not only as one of the few places left that still served traditional haute cuisine in our region but emerging as one of the spots that helped put NQ’s now thriving foodie scene on the map back in the day, we couldn’t think of a more fitting image to part on than this one:
We wish Alexandre and Eric all the best, as well as a speedy recovery to Florence back home, and sincerely hope they get to enjoy a slower pace of life after years of service and outstanding contribution to the world of Manc dining.
Unfortunately, 63 Degrees is just one of the most recent Manchester restaurants that have closed; we’re not even in mid-February yet and we’re already losing count of how many of these pieces we’ve had to write for various reasons.
That being said, the general consensus seems to be that it is impossibly hard for local businesses to keep afloat under the constant pressure of rising energy bills, business rates and a cost of living crisis that is preventing people from being able to eat out.
If institutions such as this and the likes of Almost Famous are struggling to survive, how on Earth can those much earlier into their journey be expected to survive? They need help and fast.
You can design Manchester-born pizza giants Rudy’s next creation
Danny Jones
Ever completed what feels like the entire Rudy’s menu twice over and had to resist the urge ask if you could design your own perfect pizza?
No, seriously: we’re asking the question because it’s something we’ve genuinely thought of before.
Don’t get us wrong, Rudy’s Neapolitan Pizza remains one of the GOATs not just in Manchester, the North and the UK but Europe as a whole – look it up – and they do update their menus from time to time, we’re greedy little sods that always want more choice when it comes to food.
Thankfully, the ever-growing Rudy’s empire is giving us and, more importantly, you the chance to do just that by bringing back their Pizza Specials competiton back for 2025. In case it wasn’t abundantly clear what that means already, watch this:
Yes, you can leave your mark on the Manc pizza world is one of the biggest ways imaginable by taking part in this once in a lifetime opportunity: the chance to get your pizza creation on the official Rudy’s menu for all to enjoy.
To be in with a chance of winning, budding pizza aficionados can roll up their sleeves and submit their pizza creation by 9 March, when entries will be judged on creativity, adherence to Neapolitan style, seasonality, taste and marketability.
The top two finalists will then be invited to Rudy’s Academy on Portland Street in Manchester on Wednesday, 2 April, where they’ll learn the secrets behind Rudy’s extremely consistent and renowned food before battling it out in front of expert judges.
Even better still, teaming up with at home pizza oven specialists Ooni and woodfired brand Napoli On The Road this year, not only will the public get to try you pizza but you’ll also be walking home with an Ooni Karu 2 Multi-Fuel Pizza Oven as well as a ‘La Famiglia’ (the family) card.
In case you wondering exactly what that entails, how does two free pizzas every week for a whole Rudy year sound? Dreamy? Yep, thought so, now stop screaming.
Last time they teamed up with Birrificio Angelo Poretti and 2025 is set to be even bigger. (Credit: Supplied)
For instance, you could get their latest exclusive special, the White Capricciosa – available until locations until 3 March – TWICE every week for 52 delicious whole weeks.
Sorrentina Fior Di Latte, Artichokes, Wild Mushrooms, Emilia-Romagna Prosciutto, Black Olive Crumb, and Truffle Oil. We think a part of us may have just actually died and gone to pizza heaven…
Rudy’s is always doing special and inventive promtions like this, be it swapping Christmas toys for pizza during the festive season, giving away a black card; leap year giveaways and even fashion collabs; they’re about much more than just their authentic, floppy Neapolitan slices these days.
But, you know, the pizza is still really bloody good and your creation could be among them.
The process is simple: list the ingredients of your pizza in as much detail as you can, give it an attention-grabbing name (of course), explain your reasons behind the recipe and even upload a photo if you like, then just keep your fingers crossed.
Once again, the competition to design your own Rudy’s pizza ends on Sunday, 9 March, so don’t wait around to be the Manchester’s next great pizzaiolo.
Submit your Rudy’s pizza creations HERE and buona fortuna – we’re rooting for you!