Over in Manchester’s Green Quarter, there is a charming restaurant serving up some of the best pasta in the city.
Called The Sparrows, last week it was revealed as one of the new additions to the prestigious Michelin Guide – a recognition that’s truly well deserved.
Long beloved by Manchester foodies, it takes its name from its signature dish, spätzle: a thick, irregularly-shaped pasta so named because its dough looks like birds in flight when scraped, wet, from the board straight into a boiling pan of water.
One-half of the couple behind the restaurant, Chef Franco Concli, hails from Trentino in the north of Italy where dishes often share influences with neighbouring Germany, Austria and Switzerland.
The other, Kasia Hitchcock, was born in Poland close to the Ukrainian border, where dumplings are a comforting part of the food culture.
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It makes sense, then, that on the menu you’ll find plump handmade pierogi and pelimeni dumplings stuffed with the likes of cottage cheese and potato, mushroom and homemade sauerkraut, listed alongside gnocchi, pappardelle, tortelli, and the pasta that started it all, spätzle.
The kase spätzle is a must-order dish at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
The pasta dish from which The Sparrows takes its name. / Image: The Manc Eats
One of the beauties of the menu here, specials aside, is that you pick your own pasta and sauce combination. Sauce options include butter and sage, tomato, guanciale, and bolognese, but the must-order dish, the one I always go back to, is the kase spätzle.
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Essentially a grown-up, Germanic version of mac and cheese, think fresh egg noodles enveloped in creamy gruyere and Emmental cheese sauce, with braised onions adding a touch of sweetness. It’s a Swabian specialty but also very popular in Germany, Switzerland, and now Manchester too.
As for the bar, there is an enticing list of low-intervention Germanic and Polish wines, plus a strong sake menu.
Before The Sparrows, Kasia’s sake company supplied Umezushi. Now sadly closed, it was once Manchester’s best sushi restaurant and a key player in helping the couple get their start up here.
Pierogi dumplings at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
Pappardelle with chorizo, cherry tomato, spinach and cream at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
Owners had recently converted the archways opposite into prep kitchens, and it was here in 2019 that it all began, with dumplings and spätzle served in a tiny arch that seated twelve at a push.
Needless to say, after a rave from Jay Rayner in The Guardian the restaurant quickly outgrew Mirabel Street and moved to a new, bigger arch no more than five or ten minutes walk away.
As time has gone on, its settings and service have become undeniably sleeker. Its menu, however, has stayed pretty much the same – including its low prices.
On my first ever visit in the summer of 2019, I think my friend and I spent just over £50 on a three course meal with wine. This time, a plate of spätzle is still only £10.50 shared between two of us.
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Given everything that’s going on in the restaurant industry, and the fact that I recently saw a far inferior plate of pasta listed at £16.50 in another Manchester restaurant, it’s a very pleasant surprise.
The daily special, tortelli stuffed with butternut squash with an amaretti biscuit crumb. Image: The Manc Eats
The menu at The Sparrows is still amazingly good value despite its ever-growing prestige. / Image: The Manc Eats
As it ever was, the staples are still there: gnocchi and spätzle, pappardelle and a daily special, available to order with your sauce of choice from just £8 a plate.
We also try one of the specials, starting our meal sweet with tortell stuffed with butternut squash and seasoned with the almond crunch of an amaretti crumb.
Add to that long ribbons of pappardelle with an indulgent mix of chorizo, cherry tomato, spinach and cream, a small plate of fresh and fragrant dill-fermented cucumbers, and an excellent bottle of Teliana Valley orange wine, and suffice to say our table was a very happy one indeed.
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The house pierogi still come stuffed with the same choices of potato and cottage cheese, or sauerkraut and mushroom, and popular sides of salted rosemary focaccia and sauerkraut are correct and present, priced from £3.75.
Even better, dumplings can be ‘mixed and matched’ at the chef’s discretion – a good option if you can’t decideon your order and want to try a bit of everything.
Inside The Sparrows on Red Bank. / Image: The Manc Eats
Dill-fermented cucumbers at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
As for the dessert menu, there’s still the sweet spätzle with cinnamon butter and brown sugar, as well as Daz’s wife’s brownie (Daz being their postman), although I regret to report I overindulged so immensely on the savoury portion of the meal I was too far gone to contemplate a pudding.
The restaurant itself is chic and stylish, with statement lighting fixtures and tall glass windows looking into an open kitchen. But the real marvel is what comes out on your plate.
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No doubt it will soon be inundated with new fans, as it should be. Run, don’t walk, whilst you can still get a table. This really is some of the best pasta in town.
Feature image – The Manc Eats
Eats
Impressive CGIs reveal new two-storey Latin BBQ restaurant, bar, and music venue coming to the Northern Quarter
Lydia Mastrolonardo
The Northern Quarter will soon welcome a huge two-storey Latin BBQ restaurant, bar and music venue, brought to you by the same team behind Manchester’s beloved Firehouse and Ramona – you just know it’s going to be good with names like that.
New CGI images have been released of the venue, giving us a sneak peek at what to expect from the huge transformation, which will take over the site formerly home to Pie & Ale.
Dahlia is set to be home to Barbacoa Cósmica, an open-fire grill kitchen, with cooking inspired by Latin America and the southern states of America. As the Northern Quarter’s first open fire grill kitchen, guests will have the unique experience of being able to watch the chefs in action, from their kitchen counter seats.
The concept is the product of years of travelling across Latin America, exploring regional recipes and techniques, then condensed down to allow us to take a road trip from San Diego to Jalisco, Mexico City to Oaxaca, all from the comfort of our seats.
Dahlia’s will also be home to Bar Más Bonita, translating to ‘most beautiful bar’, which has not disappointed either judging from the CGI projections – we just can’t wait to see it in person.
This lively Liquorita is set to serve up all sorts of Latin American specialties – think vibrant, handcrafted cocktails and salted rims with tequila, mezcal, rum and Latin spirits.
In the evenings, the space will transform into Dahlia Stereo, an intimate two-storey music space powered by a bespoke Hatchett Sound system. Every element of the venue has been carefully considered by sound engineers and acoustic specialists, including Jonny ‘Oppo’ of Neuron Audio, to ensure the best listening experience possible.
A glimpse inside Dahlia in Manchester. Credit: Supplied
Will Taplin, executive chef at Dahlia, shared: “Barbacoa Cósmica is the result of everything we have experienced and loved during our travels across Latin America.
“It is generous, energetic and completely driven by flavour. If something is on the menu, it is because we genuinely love it, and we hope Manchester will love it too.”
Jonny ‘Oppo’ said: “We have been building and working with sound systems for years, but Manchester’s bars and restaurants have never had an installation at this level. Every detail of the room has been designed around how music should sound and feel. It is genuinely exciting for the city.”
In addition to this, the iconic Jonjo Williams of Maribou State and Rich Reason of Hit & Run, have carefully curated a music programme for September to give us a flavour of what’s to come, including sets from Gilles Peterson, Quantic, Gia Fu, DJ Die and Joey T.
Dahlia ManchesterThe site of Dahlia
Jonjo Williams explained: “We want to create the energy of an intimate club within a bar and restaurant.
“We are deliberately keeping capacity below 250 so the experience always feels personal, immersive and connected. Dahlia has been designed by the best DJs for the best DJs, but ultimately it has been created for anyone who truly loves music.”
With craft being central to the space, almost every element has been made by hand by the Dahlia team and its team of trusted independent artisans and specialist suppliers. From the artwork and upholstery, to the world class sound system and the team’s own bottled Latin spirits, it truly has all been carefully thought through.
We never thought we’d wish for summer to be over, but September can’t come soon enough.
Click HERE for reservations or follow @dahliastereofor further announcements.
National Pizza Awards looking for one lucky person to join 2026 judging panel
Emily Sergeant
Job adverts don’t come much better than this, as the National Pizza Awards is searching for one lucky person to join the judging panel at this year’s grand final.
The National Pizza Awards invite chefs from across the hospitality industry each year to submit their signature recipes in a bid to claim the coveted title of National Pizza of the Year title, providing a platform for the UK’s ultimate pizza professionals to showcase their recipes on a national scale.
Hosted by Dine Out magazine finalists face off in a live cooking showdown in front of a hand-picked panel of industry judges.
On top of a signature round, competitors take part in a technical challenge that sees them construct the best dish from a selection of ingredients, with the winner being named National Pizza Chef of the Year.
The National Pizza Awards is looking for one lucky person to join its 2026 judging panel / Credit: The Manc Group
And this year, you could play a part in picking the winners.
That’s right – the National Pizza Awards has launched a nationwide search for a new judge, and the only catch (if you can even call it a catch) is that the judge will need to sample 16 of the UK’s best pizzas in a single day as chefs battle it out for the title.
It’s a tough gig, but someone’s got to do it, and if you want to be that someone, entries are now open for you to enter.
Pizzas are judged on how the they’re made, the flavour profile, how they’re cooked, the aesthetic and presentation, and the texture, quality, and consistency, as well as the choice of ingredients.
To be in with a chance, you’ll simply just need tag your favourite pizza place in the Instagram competition post, and then if that place enters the awards and makes it through to the final cook-off, you’ll be entered into a draw to become that all-important guest judge this November.
Georgina Pellant -
5th February 2023 
