Travel & Tourism

Farlam Hall – What it’s like to stay at the historic venue named the best foodie hotel in the UK

Kristen MacGregor-Houlston - 15th August 2024

When you think of Cumbria, you think of the Lake District. When you think of Carlisle, you think of that place you always pass, but never visit, on the way to and from Scotland. Farlam Hall Hotel and Restaurant however, is providing a reason for everyone to slow down and explore.

This year, its resident restaurant Cedar Tree received a Michelin star, a mere 18 months after Hrishikesh Desai took the helm as Chef Patron.

His innovative style of classic British cuisine with surprising twists has helped put this already beautiful hotel firmly on the map, being named the best foodie hotel in the UK. 

With delicious food, stunning gardens and history on its doorstep, Farlam Hall is not to be missed.

Farlam Hall dates back to 1428 and has been in the Thompson family for its entire existence. Guests can stay in the main hall, or indulge in one of the converted stable suites, where family and friends can gather and enjoy the peace and tranquillity of having their own space within the beautiful grounds. 

The bedrooms in the main hall are warm and comforting, with some modern twists like a TV in front of the bath (not all rooms have this, but mine did and it was honestly a highlight of the trip).

As you may have guessed by now, Farlam Hall is home to the multi-award winning restaurant Cedar Tree, but it is also home to Bistro Enkel, their more relaxed and accessible restaurant for guests to enjoy from Sunday to Tuesday. The menu has many classic bistro-style dishes for guests to indulge in, but I’ll tell you more about that later.

The welcome to Farlam Hall is second to none. You’re greeted like one of the family who has been away for a while and now you’re returning home. 

We went to see what Farlam Hall is all about and why you should add it to your bucket list to visit.

Farlam Hall and Gardens

Coming up the drive to Farlam Hall is like entering a story book, everything is so neat and picturesque, like it has been illustrated into existence. 

The iconic cedar tree, which is seen in the Farlam Hall logo and from which the Michelin starred restaurant gets its name, stands proudly in the garden to greet you. There is so much to explore, with the hall set in six acres of manicured grounds, with a half acre kitchen garden, and guests encouraged to get out and wander around. The stress of the outside world seems to just melt away instantly.

To the rear of the hall and behind the stable suites, lies the kitchen garden. The space has been lovingly cared for and curated by the fantastic gardener Penny. Her passion and knowledge for her craft shines out of her like a warm sunbeam, you can’t help but want to bask in her, taking in all she has to say. 

We got to pick ingredients from the garden to make some of their signature cocktails, whilst learning about the different produce and flowers growing in the garden and their purpose. 

Hrishikesh and Penny are working towards becoming almost completely sustainable from the garden, with all fruit and vegetable waste being returned to the garden and as much fruit and vegetable produce coming from their own doorstep, whilst encouraging a whole host of wildlife to call their garden home.

There’s a large number of rooms to choose from at Farlam Hall, catering to all needs and budgets, everyone is welcome. We explored the homely stable suites, which have been impressively styled to be an elegant twist of modern and traditional. The private spaces are the perfect getaway for a family or group that want to enjoy their own space away from the main hotel.

I was lucky enough to have a junior suite during my visit and it was divine. The bed was enormous and out of this world comfy. I had a pleasant seating area to enjoy a cup of tea and watch the Olympics (no no, not just the French pole vaulter on repeat, I swear) and a view of the surrounding gardens. 

The bathroom was big enough for a whole olympic gymnastic routine and the bath… it had a TV in the wall in front of it! This innovation absolutely blew my mind, there was no awkward balancing of phones or laptops for me tonight, I’d be bathing in luxury. 

I nipped back up to my room during dinner too, and someone had been in to close all of my blinds and curtains, turn down my bed and lay out my robe and slippers for me too. This VIP treatment for guests really sets Farlam Hall apart.

Bistro Enkel

Farlam Hall has two on-site restaurants, with Cedar Tree serving guests Wednesday to Saturday, and Bistro Enkel is available Sunday to Tuesday. Enkel (the old Nordic word for “simple”) has a more accessible menu for guests in an a la carte style rather than a tasting menu. 

There are many bistro classics like the prawn ‘Marie Rose’, smoked ham hock and chicken terrine and featherblade steak, but still have Hrishikesh’s signature twists and creativity to keep it interesting. 

I opted for the mozzarella and tomato starter, with the tomatoes having travelled a mere 10 metres from garden to kitchen. Their freshness was sublime and the dish was light on the palate. 

I was fortunate enough that a member of our party didn’t want dessert, which meant I could indulge in the cheese plate AND the chocolate delice. The cheeses were all British farmhouse cheeses, carefully curated so one never overpowered the other. The chocolate delice however was a gut punch of chocolate deliciousness with a smooth texture that envelopes the tongue like a wave of cocoa nectar. It did not last long.

The surrounding area

After a quick indulgent breakfast (I treated myself to the rarebit on toast with poached eggs and highly recommend you do the same), we went for a walk around the lake at Talkin Tarn Country Park. This beautiful mix of woodland and farmland is just a short 10 minute drive from Farlam Hall and the perfect spot for a gentle stroll to soak up the surroundings and work off some of the food we had been consuming endlessly (and with glee) since we arrived. 

Karen Baybutt, who joined Farlam Hall with Hrishikesh after they both left the Gilpin, joined us for a natter and a potter around the lake, chatting all things Farlam. It was obvious that Karen lives and breathes Farlam and it was so pleasant to hear of all the different ways she is getting involved in her new community and sharing what Farlam Hall has to offer. 

Our walk was led by the magnificent Min. She spoke with such knowledge and fervour about her surroundings and the local area that I couldn’t help but have a smile on my face. Being in the company of such passionate people whilst visiting Farlam was quite invigorating for the soul. Min has plenty of suggestions for places to explore while you’re visiting the area, with plenty of walks to enjoy and the historic Hadrian’s wall is a mere 15 minute drive from the hotel.

The Cedar Tree

The piece de resistance of Farlam Hall is of course the Michelin starred Cedar Tree restaurant. Found in the same room as Bistro Enkel but with a slightly different layout and table setting, you can feel the step up in luxury. 

The kitchen is of course headed up by Hrishikesh Desai, the Chef de Patron, and his menu is playful with signature twists that he has become to be known for. There is certainly no stuffy feeling about what we are about to enjoy.

We start the afternoon in the bar, a comfortable and relaxed space to unwind with a glass of fizz and enjoy our first two courses (of eleven if you include the petit fours). 

We are served a warming cone of garbanzo bean chaat to begin, transporting us to the streets of India before jetting off to where I assumed was the Mediterranean but my senses are unsure. We are served Hrishikesh’s ‘olives our way’, which at first glance appears to be a tasty looking olive in a delicate pool of hay-coloured olive oil. However what I had seen and what I was tasting were entirely different. I don’t want to spoil it for you by over describing the dish, but I was both confused by and pleased with what I was eating.

We then moved into the dining room, where the staff were calm, personable and relaxed. Hrishikesh himself came and explained each dish to us, his knowledge and love for his craft and ingredients added some extra seasoning to the food which made everything taste just that little bit better. 

There were stand out dishes, like the Gazpacho made from herbs from the garden; the ‘Farlam Hall Garden Tomato’ stuffed to the brim with, you guessed it, tomatoes from the garden, all impressively presented like an actual tomato on a bed of spiced tomato jelly that turned into a consume as you eat it; the long-horn beef wellington with a tandoori spiced fillet of beef that had been cooked on charcoal before being delicately wrapped in pastry (this was enough to make this vegetarian of 25 years jealous); and the chilli butter. THE CHILLI BUTTER. There aren’t enough words in the English language to describe the magnificence of this chilli butter. Poets will write about. The butter even looks like a chilli, encased in chilli from Hrishikesh’s home in India. Honestly, I’d have moved in just for the butter.

Farlam Hall Hotel & Restaurant is an absolute gem of the north filled with passionate, lovely people and fantastic food. You can find out more and book your stay here.

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Featured image: The Manc Group