A chef in Bolton has mocked Salt Bae’s restaurant Nusr-Et and its £850 gold-wrapped steak by producing his own versions – including a bacon and gold leaf-covered sausage butty.
Chef Gareth Mason decided to spoof the eye-wateringly expensive London steakhouse by creating his own gold-covered dishes.
Of the opinion seemingly held by many Brits that “getting a steak and wrapping it in gold doesn’t make it worth £800”, he tells us wrapping stuff in gold might be time-consuming and nerve-wracking but it “still doesn’t justify a thousand pounds for a steak or £45 for a cappuccino.”
Image: Phil Taylor / SWNS
As well as giving the gold treatment to the iconic sausage butty, the Absolute Bar and Bistro head chef has also wrapped his signature miniature meat Whist Pies in gold.
He also created further options like gold-wrapped chips, a 24-carat carrot, and a gold pork pie and pickle platter.
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The bar and bistro is relatively new to the area, having opened on Westhoughton’s Market Street in the summer of 2021. First launching with just coffees and teas, followed by drinks and tapas in the evening, the menu offering has certainly picked up since Gareth Mason joined the team.
Image: Phil Taylor / SWNS
Formerly Group Executive Chef at Retreat Restaurants, his dishes made headlines last year too – when he created some ‘ingenious’ substantial meals for the group, including a ‘three-tier’ fish, chips and mushy peas pie.
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“It was national pie month in Wigan at the time,” he tells us, “so we made this pie, encased it in pastry, and topped it with chips.”
His creations were covered numerous times in 2020, including when he cooked a menu with Irn Bru in response to a story that said the iconic Scottish drink cured Covid.
As a reaction to that, Gareth created the likes of blue and orange Irn Bru macaroons, Irn Bru cranachan jelly, haggis Scottish roll with Irn bru and onion chutney, and Scotch pancakes with an Irn Bru syrup.
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Image: Phil Taylor / SWNS
“I can’t say I’ve ever cooked with Irn Bru before to be fair,” he tells us.
Now, it seems he has put the Absolute Bar and Bistro on the map with these new creations that highlight the extortionate expense of dining at one of Salt Bae’s Nusr-Et restaurants.
Speaking to The Manc, he told us his gold-leaf creations were “just a bit of fun” and customers won’t be able to actually get a gold-covered sausage at his Bistro.
Rather, he decided to put a spin on some of the menu’s classic items to make a point.
Image: Phil Taylor / SWNS
“Clearly some people have got more money than sense,” said Gareth.
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“There’s people starving at this moment in time and we’re wrapping stuff in gold and charging ridiculous prices for it.”
Calling the Nusr-Et prices “ridiculous”, he concedes that whilst wrapping food in gold is time-consuming and “quite nervewracking to be fair […] as the gold is very temperamental.”
However, he still doesn’t think that makes it worth the price – not by a long shot.
Asked what he thinks is next, he jokes “Diamonds, platinum, white gold.” We’re laughing, but sadly he’s probably right.
Image: Phil Taylor / SWNSImage: Phil Taylor / SWNS
For those who don’t know, Turkish butcher-turned-chef Salt Bae first rose to fame after going viral online for a technique that involved sprinkling salt down his arm, has faced reams of criticism online following the opening of his new London restaurant.
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One group of diners recently shared a bill for £37,023.10 – including a service charge of nearly £5,000 – after a boozy wine-fuelled night at the restaurant.
If you don’t fancy splashing that sort of cash, though, you’d better head over to Westhoughton in Bolton.
Whilst you won’t exactly get a taste of the gold-wrapped Nusr-Et experience, you’re definitely guaranteed to receive some wholesome Lancashire options with a healthy dose of humour on the side.
Feature image – Phil Taylor / SWNS
Food & Drink
Tiny shipping container Italian opens its own Northern Quarter deli
Daisy Jackson
A tiny Italian cafe that started life in a shipping container has opened its very own cafe and deli in the Northern Quarter.
Marleo, one of the most authentic Italian spots in Manchester, has transformed a unit on Oldham Street into a sunny yellow Sicilian cafe.
Here, you’ll find a counter stuffed with classic Sicilian street food, like perfect cone-shaped arancini, fresh focaccia sandwiches, and pizzette.
Maria and Leo are the couple behind this Northern Quarter newcomer (though you might already know them from Pollard Yard), and they want to create a space that echoes the magic of the Italian island.
You can order a coffee to drink at the counter, the true Italian way, with a cannoli or a cornetto pastry on the side.
There are vibrant salads to take away, along with all those doughy Italian delights to go.
But Marleo Little Sicily also has a small seating area tucked in the back, where a lemon tree climbs up the walls and traditional Testa di Moro peer out from the shelves.
A full spread of Sicilian treats from Marleo in ManchesterFresh focaccia sandwiches at MarleoPistachio and mortadella pizzetteMushroom aranciniMarleo Little Sicily in ManchesterThe full counter at Marleo Little Sicily
Highlights on the counter include Ravazzate, a soft Sicilian bread pun stuffed with homemade, slow-cooked meat and other fillings, like a classic Genovese.
There are also Cipolline, a homemade puff pastry treat packed with fillings like spinach and chilli, or pistachio and mortadella.
Leo has brought a dish from his hometown too – nfigghiulate is a traditional, rustic Italian pastry that’s wrapped around sausage and onion and fennel.
They’ve got a full range of arancini too, stuffed with ham and bechamel sauce, or creamy mushrooms and mozzarella.
Marleo Little Sicily will open its doors at 93 Oldham Street this week.
Stockport pub set to be brought back by local brewery
Danny Jones
A once popular pub in Stockport looks set to be brought back by a big regional brewery, more than two and a half years on from its closure.
The boozer in question is The Golden Hind in Offerton, with the most recent landlords having to bid goodbye to the Lisburne Lane location back in November 2023.
Since then, the sad sight has simply stood derelict on the corner of Marple Road, a main thoroughfare which connects the SK neighbourhood to the neighbouring town of the same name.
However, now it appears as though Manchester-born brewers and pub operators, Joseph Holt, are set to resurrect the local institution as part of a major redevelopment programme estimated to be worth North of £1 million.
CEO Richard Kershaw, along with directors Jane and Andrew Kershaw. (Credit: Joseph Holt Brewery)
Native pub chain and beer-makers ‘Joey Holts’, as they’re sometimes colloquially known, announced their purchase of the building last week.
With Jane and Andrew representing the sixth generation of the Holts to work for the well-established Manc publicans, the family-run business knows all about the importance of maintaining the important community aspect of suburban cornerstones like this.
Over 176 years old themselves, Joseph Holt has plenty of experience reviving venues like this – it was only back in October that they helped reboot the Horse and Jockey in Chorlton – and have stated their intention of helping fight the growing trend of pubs, bars and restaurants closing across the country.
The Golden Hind (which was formerly a Hungry Horse pub before its Greene King era) ceased trading after being open for well over half a century, and was heavily mourned at the time.
With regulars and Offertonians at large campaigning at the time to try and save the site, this will no doubt come as great news and some much-needed relief to many in and around the area, who spent some of their most important time socialising and building connections in their much-loved local hub.
We are yet to be given a clear timeline for the comeback, but you can already tell how motivated the new owners are to make this a success, not just for themselves, but for those who live nearby.
Aforementioned CEO, Richard Kershaw, said in a statement: “Joseph Holt is a brewery committed to putting pubs back into the heart of local communities. It is at the core of our ethos.
“Since we know they play such an important role not just as places to enjoy a drink, but as welcoming spaces to meet others, take part in social groups, and enjoy live events. All of which will be happening once again once we complete our redevelopment of The Golden Hind.
“That’s why we are investing over £1 million in a comprehensive and carefully considered redevelopment, creating a pub in the truest traditional sense — complete with open fireplaces, generous outdoor spaces, and comfortable, characterful furnishings.”
The Joey Holt boss went on to add: “We are a family business, and we really understand how people feel a deep social connection with their local pub. We hope our revival of the Golden Hind will once again make it a local magnet.
“This investment will also bring real benefits to the area – creating jobs and new opportunities, while giving the wider community a meaningful boost. We’re looking forward to getting started on this exciting new chapter for both the pub and the area.”
With another long-standing Stopfordian pub, which was also previously run by the same ownership group, having confirmed its closure late last month, could Joseph Holt be about to do something similar with another well-known watering hole?…
Georgina Pellant -
26th October 2021 
