When Elite Bistros chef Gary Usher revealed plans to take over a historic country pub in Cheshire, Manchester took notice.
The popular chef behind esteemed eateries Hispi and Kala, Sticky Walnut, Wreckfish, Burnt Truffle and Pinion has certainly made a name for himself in the bistro world, not to mention breaking every crowdfunding record he’s ever set.
Now, he’s trying his hand at something new. Having opened six acclaimed bistros to date, last year he went and snapped up the White Horse pub in Churton: a charming local pub that just so happens to sit down the road from his parent’s house.
At the time Usher revealed that it had always been a dream of his to run the pub as he had ‘always loved it there’ and often walks his dog Billy in the area.
The dining area at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
The bar area as you enter the pub at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
Today, that dream officially became a reality as the pub’s doors reopened for the first time. So naturally, we mooched over to check it out for ourselves.
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Little did we expect the main man himself to be the one to hold the door, but there he was.
When Usher first announced his takeover of the country boozer, he promised ‘delicious, unpretentious food’ and ‘great drinks’. Having tipped in for lunch, it seems fair to say that he has delivered.
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Braised beef with roast garlic and parsley mash, a curried lamb pie and an 18oz dry-aged sirloin of beef to share all jump out at us, but in the end, we opt for the heartiest of hearty classics. Namely fish and chips, and faggots.
For the uninitiated, faggots are essentially chunky little meatballs made from offal and flavoured with herbs and breadcrumbs. A favourite of my dads, I grew up eating them – but only on his birthday, because my mum found the idea of shaping the minced-up off cuts too offputting for any other occassion.
Beer battered haddock and chips with minted peas and tartare sauce at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
Herby lamb faggots with mash, crispy shallots and salsa verde at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
Typically they’re made using pork, but at The White Horse the meat of choice is lamb. It works, very well, the herbs running through dense meatballs, which in turn sit atop a bowl of creamy mash pooled with rich gravy. Crispy shallots add crunch. It’s proper.
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As for the fish and chips, we both agree that aesthetically these are the neatest chips we’ve ever seen. “DId they recruit a bricklayer in to lay these chips? They look so neat” quips my dinner date as we dive in.
We agree the fish batter is stodgy, but in the best possible way. Another thirty seconds in the fryer and it would’ve been overcooked.
As it is, though, everything is absolutely spot on: from the thickly sliced homemade pork pie paired with a sunshine-yellow piccalilli, to the chunky slice of Welsh rarebit loaded with lashings of stout and Appleby’s smoked Cheshire cheese.
Slice of homemade pork pie with sunshine-yellow piccalilli and home pickled chillies. / Image: The Manc Eats
Stout rarebit with Appleby’s smoked Cheshire cheese. / Image: The Manc Eats
Yes it’s early days and we’re in danger of running into a rave before the staff have even learnt to walk, but in fairness even the service was impeccable – something you don’t always expect to find at a new opening just finding its feet.
Our server did admit they were slightly terrified about the first day, but during our meal it didn’t show,aside from Gary Usher opening the door himself on our arrival. I don’t expect you’ll be getting that every day.
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That said, the controversial £19.50 burger mysteriously disappeared from the menu just before opening day came around. It just wasn’t perfect, so we’re told, so it didn’t make the cut. Still you can’t criticise them for caring too much, that’s for sure.
This new opening is not trying to reinvent the wheel, at all. If anything, it’s just returning to what the wheel used to be. Comforting classics, done well, with decent pints and an attractive wine list that won’t break the bank (£22 for a bottle).
We do love a good country pub at The Manc, and this is definitely one of them.
Feature image – The Manc Eats
Eats
An award-winning vegan restaurant in Manchester has closed – and will become an Irish pub
Daisy Jackson
One of Manchester’s most celebrated restaurants has closed its doors for good, ahead of a major relaunch as an Irish pub.
The Allotment paved the way for vegan dining not just in our city, but across the UK, scooping up awards as it went.
But now the acclaimed restaurant, which stands directly opposite the magnificent Manchester Cathedral, has closed down.
In a statement shared online, The Allotment founder and CEO Anthony Sheridan announced that the restaurant will cease to exist in its current guise, as they prepare to invest in the future of the beautiful building.
Anthony has announced that in the coming months, the space will be transformed into The Sheridan Fiddle, a ‘premium Irish hospitality venue’.
Soon, visitors can expect to see ‘traditional homemade Irish food, perfectly poured Guinness, carefully selected wines, live Irish music and, most importantly, the warm welcome that has always been at the heart of this venue’.
Looking back on almost a decade of The Allotment, the statement shared to followers has also addressed its origins, writing: “Almost ten years ago, I never set out to open one of the UK’s best vegan restaurants.
“I simply wanted to help my little boy.”
Anthony set up the business when his son, Anthony Jr, was diagnosed with Chrohn’s, understanding that a plant-based diet would help him.
The Allotment vegan restaurant in Manchester has closedSigns in the door of Allotment Manchester
The statement continued: “What happened next was something I could never have imagined.
“Together, we built something truly special.
“Over the last decade, The Allotment was named Best Vegetarian Restaurant in the North West, Best Vegan Restaurant in the UK for two consecutive years, and was recognised as the 47th Best Vegan Restaurant in the World.
“But the awards were never the greatest achievement.
“The greatest achievement has been the people, our incredible team, our loyal customers, the friendships we’ve made, and the memories we’ve shared. And seeing thousands of people walk through our doors over the years.”
Anthony Jr is now living in Dubai and running his own gym, which has left Anthony to make the decision to ‘evolve’ the business.
“After a huge amount of thought, we’ve made the decision to begin a new chapter for this beautiful building,” he wrote.
“Rather than closing its doors, we’re investing in its future.”
His statement continues: “Although the concept is changing, one thing never will… Our commitment to making people feel welcome.
“This building has spent the last ten years bringing people together over great food.
“Now, we’re excited for it to spend the next ten years bringing people together in a different way.
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“To every single person who has visited us, supported us, recommended us, celebrated with us or simply believed in what we were trying to create… Thank you.
“You haven’t just supported a restaurant. You’ve been part of our family’s story.
“I hope you’ll join us for the next chapter. Welcome to The Sheridan Fiddle.”
The fantastic pub near Manchester Airport that’s a perfect plane-spotting site
Daisy Jackson
Forget rooftop bars and waterfront terraces – this pub comes with front-row seats to one of the busiest runways in the UK.
Just 50 feet from the end of Manchester Airport’s runway, The Airport Pub is where lunch comes with a side of jumbo jets.
If you’re an aviation enthusiast, or plane-spotting has never appealed until you factor in the idea of doing it with a pint in hand, this is the spot to check out. Bonus points if you whip out FlightRadar.
With an outdoor area for the kids too, it’s an easy win for a family day out.
Planes roar overhead every few minutes, thanks to the pub’s obvious proximity to the busy runways of Manchester Airport.
Step inside and the aviation theme continues, with propeller-style chandeliers, jet engine booth seating and other plane-inspired touches that make the pub feel every bit as unique as its location.
But if you ask us, the best seats in the house are outside, where you can tuck into a hearty pub lunch (hello, cheese and onion pie) while watching the constant parade of arrivals.
Cheese and onion pieInside the Airport Pub in ManchesterA pint in the Airport Pub beer gardenPropellor chandeliers inside the Airport PubPlanes land just 50ft from the beer gardenYou can sit inside a booth built from an old engineThe Hangar bar outsideFried chicken and waffles
For an even better view, head over to The Hangar, the pub’s outdoor bar, where you can grab a pint or an ice cream before claiming one of the picnic benches just metres from the runway.
It’s surprisingly easy to lose track of time as everything from short-haul jets to giant long-haul aircraft passes right in front of you.
The Airport Pub isn’t just about the view either. Its family-friendly atmosphere, spacious beer garden and classic diner-style menu make it a great stop whether you’re waiting for a flight, entertaining the kids or simply fancying one of the most memorable pub experiences in the country.
Georgina Pellant -
3rd March 2023 
