When Elite Bistros chef Gary Usher revealed plans to take over a historic country pub in Cheshire, Manchester took notice.
The popular chef behind esteemed eateries Hispi and Kala, Sticky Walnut, Wreckfish, Burnt Truffle and Pinion has certainly made a name for himself in the bistro world, not to mention breaking every crowdfunding record he’s ever set.
Now, he’s trying his hand at something new. Having opened six acclaimed bistros to date, last year he went and snapped up the White Horse pub in Churton: a charming local pub that just so happens to sit down the road from his parent’s house.
At the time Usher revealed that it had always been a dream of his to run the pub as he had ‘always loved it there’ and often walks his dog Billy in the area.
The dining area at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
The bar area as you enter the pub at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
Today, that dream officially became a reality as the pub’s doors reopened for the first time. So naturally, we mooched over to check it out for ourselves.
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Little did we expect the main man himself to be the one to hold the door, but there he was.
When Usher first announced his takeover of the country boozer, he promised ‘delicious, unpretentious food’ and ‘great drinks’. Having tipped in for lunch, it seems fair to say that he has delivered.
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Braised beef with roast garlic and parsley mash, a curried lamb pie and an 18oz dry-aged sirloin of beef to share all jump out at us, but in the end, we opt for the heartiest of hearty classics. Namely fish and chips, and faggots.
For the uninitiated, faggots are essentially chunky little meatballs made from offal and flavoured with herbs and breadcrumbs. A favourite of my dads, I grew up eating them – but only on his birthday, because my mum found the idea of shaping the minced-up off cuts too offputting for any other occassion.
Beer battered haddock and chips with minted peas and tartare sauce at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
Herby lamb faggots with mash, crispy shallots and salsa verde at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
Typically they’re made using pork, but at The White Horse the meat of choice is lamb. It works, very well, the herbs running through dense meatballs, which in turn sit atop a bowl of creamy mash pooled with rich gravy. Crispy shallots add crunch. It’s proper.
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As for the fish and chips, we both agree that aesthetically these are the neatest chips we’ve ever seen. “DId they recruit a bricklayer in to lay these chips? They look so neat” quips my dinner date as we dive in.
We agree the fish batter is stodgy, but in the best possible way. Another thirty seconds in the fryer and it would’ve been overcooked.
As it is, though, everything is absolutely spot on: from the thickly sliced homemade pork pie paired with a sunshine-yellow piccalilli, to the chunky slice of Welsh rarebit loaded with lashings of stout and Appleby’s smoked Cheshire cheese.
Slice of homemade pork pie with sunshine-yellow piccalilli and home pickled chillies. / Image: The Manc Eats
Stout rarebit with Appleby’s smoked Cheshire cheese. / Image: The Manc Eats
Yes it’s early days and we’re in danger of running into a rave before the staff have even learnt to walk, but in fairness even the service was impeccable – something you don’t always expect to find at a new opening just finding its feet.
Our server did admit they were slightly terrified about the first day, but during our meal it didn’t show,aside from Gary Usher opening the door himself on our arrival. I don’t expect you’ll be getting that every day.
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That said, the controversial £19.50 burger mysteriously disappeared from the menu just before opening day came around. It just wasn’t perfect, so we’re told, so it didn’t make the cut. Still you can’t criticise them for caring too much, that’s for sure.
This new opening is not trying to reinvent the wheel, at all. If anything, it’s just returning to what the wheel used to be. Comforting classics, done well, with decent pints and an attractive wine list that won’t break the bank (£22 for a bottle).
We do love a good country pub at The Manc, and this is definitely one of them.
Feature image – The Manc Eats
Eats
Altrincham restaurant pays touching tribute to beloved regular after tragic passing
Danny Jones
Altrincham restaurant Damò has paid a truly touching but heartbreaking tribute to one of their dearest customers, Haroon Choudry, after learning of his tragic passing last week.
The Italian eatery is a highly-rated spot that is adored among the Alty community and it seems there’s just as much affection being poured out following the recent death of one of their regulars.
Announcing the news on social media, Damò said that they recently learned of the news that their familiar and popular local face, not to mention beyond loyal patron Haroon had sadly passed away following a sudden heart attack.
He was just 56. This really is a tear-jerker but it’s nevertheless beautiful to read.
Entitling the post simply, ‘GOODBYE H’, the emotional farewell message begins, “Never in my life did I think I’d be writing this…
After explaining that someone walked into the restaurant on Saturday morning to inform them of the awful news, co-owner Amro Faisal went on to add: “I didn’t understand. How? He was just here the day before, and the day before that. He was always here.”
Confessing that it made a busy weekend service more difficult, he revealed how a call with his wife was particularly moving as she simply repeated, “He loved you so much, guys! He loved you so much!” – a moment they have described as unforgettable as it was moving.
As they detailed at length, ‘H’ would visit Damò at least three to four times a week, enjoying “his usual single espresso with a glass of water—he didn’t even have to ask; it just came with my coffee.”
“We’d sit, chat, laugh… sometimes I’d forget I was even working”, Amro continued. “He was passionate about cars, especially vintage cars.
“Some days, we’d just sit at the bar table, watching outside on Ashley Road, talking about cars and engines. He could go on for hours, completely in his element, sharing stories and knowledge.”
It’s clear Haroon was just as big a part of the Damò family as the staff. (Credit: DAMO Altrincham via Facebook)
Equally beloved by friends, family and other regulars, he often ate with his wife and two daughters – of which he was always “so proud” – or best mates Bob and Darren, and was constantly singing the restaurant’s praises to everyone he knew. Put simply, they summed him up as a “lovely person.”
The restaurant opened back in the summer of 2023 and has quickly grown a loyal following in the Trafford market town, but none more so than Haroon. Fast forward to February 2025 and members of the Damò team sadly found themselves at the well-respected local GP’s funeral. Just awful.
Still struggling to find the words, the restaurant said: “And now he’s gone. Just like that […] Still in shock. Still heartbroken. He wasn’t just a customer, not even just a regular—he was our Friend. And he left too soon. We had so many things still to do, so many more coffees to share.
The lasting image is one of him last Wednesday evening, 13 February, eating their Tagliatelle Duck Ragu dish. They signed off the post the only way they knew how, adding, “Rest easy, Haroon. You’ll be missed more than words can say.
You only have to look in the comments beneath any of their social posts to see how much he meant to others either, with one person writing: “Like many others, I was very fortunate to know H for more than 20 years and make many great ‘car’ memories with him.
“Softly spoken, with a dry wit, a devoted and very proud husband, Dad, son and great friend, he’ll be deeply missed by so many.”
Nearby Portland Wine Hale also described him as a “lovely customer and friend”, even reminiscing about their Manchester United vs Man City banter whenever he popped in.
Our thoughts go out to Haroon’s friends, family and everyone’s lives he touched. Rest in peace.
Popular Manchester name shuts huge six-month-old restaurant with immediate effect
Daisy Jackson
A popular name on Greater Manchester’s restaurant scene has announced the immediate closure of one of its most well-known sites.
Unagi has suddenly shut the doors to its huge, beautiful Salford Quays restaurant that has been open for only six months.
Touted as the biggest sushi bar in the north, the brand’s latest location has closed down with immediate effect.
Unagi Media City was the futuristic sushi and Asian restaurant that was the business’s fifth site in Greater Manchester.
It was a stunning space filled with neon and paper lanterns, with an open kitchen to watch the masters at work.
On the menu were pan-Asian snacks, street food, and the brilliant sushi platters that have been the foundation to Unagi’s empire.
Unagi has expanded rapidly in recent years with locations now in Altrincham, Wilmslow, Cheetham Hill and West Didsbury.
Unagi in Cheetham HillUnagi in AltirnchamUnagi in Salford QuaysCredit: The Manc Group
In a statement shared online, the restaurant shared that unfortunately the end has already come for its newest location in Salford Quays, so that they can focus on their other thriving restaurants.
They wrote that they would aim to ‘redeploy’ as many staff as possible to other roles in the business, thanking their ‘amazing team’
They wrote: “Dear friends, sadly, we must announce that we won’t be extending our stay in Salford Quays and will be closing Unagi Media City with immediate effect.
“It’s been a tough decision but it will enable us to focus on our thriving Unagi’s in Altrincham, Wilmslow, Didsbury and Cheetham Hill and get rolling on some exciting new openings in Manchester later this year.
“We will redeploy as many of our amazing team as we can and want to thank everyone for all their efforts and incredible service.
“A huge thank you to all our wonderful team and every guest we have welcomed. Onward we roll!”
Georgina Pellant -
3rd March 2023 
