When Elite Bistros chef Gary Usher revealed plans to take over a historic country pub in Cheshire, Manchester took notice.
The popular chef behind esteemed eateries Hispi and Kala, Sticky Walnut, Wreckfish, Burnt Truffle and Pinion has certainly made a name for himself in the bistro world, not to mention breaking every crowdfunding record he’s ever set.
Now, he’s trying his hand at something new. Having opened six acclaimed bistros to date, last year he went and snapped up the White Horse pub in Churton: a charming local pub that just so happens to sit down the road from his parent’s house.
At the time Usher revealed that it had always been a dream of his to run the pub as he had ‘always loved it there’ and often walks his dog Billy in the area.
The dining area at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
The bar area as you enter the pub at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
Today, that dream officially became a reality as the pub’s doors reopened for the first time. So naturally, we mooched over to check it out for ourselves.
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Little did we expect the main man himself to be the one to hold the door, but there he was.
When Usher first announced his takeover of the country boozer, he promised ‘delicious, unpretentious food’ and ‘great drinks’. Having tipped in for lunch, it seems fair to say that he has delivered.
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Braised beef with roast garlic and parsley mash, a curried lamb pie and an 18oz dry-aged sirloin of beef to share all jump out at us, but in the end, we opt for the heartiest of hearty classics. Namely fish and chips, and faggots.
For the uninitiated, faggots are essentially chunky little meatballs made from offal and flavoured with herbs and breadcrumbs. A favourite of my dads, I grew up eating them – but only on his birthday, because my mum found the idea of shaping the minced-up off cuts too offputting for any other occassion.
Beer battered haddock and chips with minted peas and tartare sauce at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
Herby lamb faggots with mash, crispy shallots and salsa verde at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
Typically they’re made using pork, but at The White Horse the meat of choice is lamb. It works, very well, the herbs running through dense meatballs, which in turn sit atop a bowl of creamy mash pooled with rich gravy. Crispy shallots add crunch. It’s proper.
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As for the fish and chips, we both agree that aesthetically these are the neatest chips we’ve ever seen. “DId they recruit a bricklayer in to lay these chips? They look so neat” quips my dinner date as we dive in.
We agree the fish batter is stodgy, but in the best possible way. Another thirty seconds in the fryer and it would’ve been overcooked.
As it is, though, everything is absolutely spot on: from the thickly sliced homemade pork pie paired with a sunshine-yellow piccalilli, to the chunky slice of Welsh rarebit loaded with lashings of stout and Appleby’s smoked Cheshire cheese.
Slice of homemade pork pie with sunshine-yellow piccalilli and home pickled chillies. / Image: The Manc Eats
Stout rarebit with Appleby’s smoked Cheshire cheese. / Image: The Manc Eats
Yes it’s early days and we’re in danger of running into a rave before the staff have even learnt to walk, but in fairness even the service was impeccable – something you don’t always expect to find at a new opening just finding its feet.
Our server did admit they were slightly terrified about the first day, but during our meal it didn’t show,aside from Gary Usher opening the door himself on our arrival. I don’t expect you’ll be getting that every day.
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That said, the controversial £19.50 burger mysteriously disappeared from the menu just before opening day came around. It just wasn’t perfect, so we’re told, so it didn’t make the cut. Still you can’t criticise them for caring too much, that’s for sure.
This new opening is not trying to reinvent the wheel, at all. If anything, it’s just returning to what the wheel used to be. Comforting classics, done well, with decent pints and an attractive wine list that won’t break the bank (£22 for a bottle).
We do love a good country pub at The Manc, and this is definitely one of them.
Feature image – The Manc Eats
Eats
15 of the best burrito spots in Greater Manchester
Danny Jones
We would argue that burritos are one of the best food stuffs on the planet: first off, they’re like an all-in-one meal wrapped in a perfect, jam-packed and hopefully not so little package (cheeky). Two, they’re super filling, and there are literally tonnes of places to get them all over Greater Manchester.
Sounds like a good excuse for a round-up, don’t you think?
Burritos are pretty easy to do well; the real knack is finding out how to do them great. It’s very easy for them to turn into one homogenous mass of mush where only one main flavour stands out, but proper good burritos have layers – a solid foundation with top notes that stand out with each bite.
Are we overintellectualising what is essentially a mix of rice, beans, protein and some extras in a wrap? Maybe, but we’ve definitely had average ones and some of the best we’ve ever enjoyed at various places across Greater Manchester. Here are a dozen or so of them:
The best burritos in Manchester and beyond
1. Listo – Oxford St
First on the list, simply because I’m writing this thing, is my personal favourite: Listo Burrito. But make no mistake, it’s lots of people’s go-to as well – just look at the state of the queues they draw every day without fail. It’s been that way since they were known as Changos, and they’ve only got better since.
Whether you’re looking for a big, medium or naked version, I believe you won’t find a better lineup of meats, veggies, toppings, sides or sauces. The latter really can steal the show if you nail the right combos and flavours here also. The GOAT, at least in my humble opinion.
Next up is another contender for one, if not the best burritos in Manchester according to aficionados, and we can confirm we’ve polished off more than a few grande pork pibils here. It’s another one with lines every lunchtime and the kind of place where entire offices put in group orders. Naming no names…
Seriously though, Pancho’s Burritos aren’t just one of the best in its category: it’s one of our favourite places in the ever-thriving Arndale Market full stop, and that’s saying something. Wash it all down with a lovely Jarritos and you’ve got a regular work staple to have on your dinner break at least once a week.
Now, in at number three is technically part of a wider chain, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing, and you’ll just have to trust that we’ve eaten enough burritos to know what standard can compete with the big boys. Put it this way, a good 10% of our genetic make-up must be Mexican at this point.
Death Valley are a spin-off of the well-known Barburrito brand, which started right here in Manchester. Nevertheless, we still regularly turn to old faithfuls, and maybe we’re imagining it, but there seems to be extra care taken with their delivery-only burritos. Their California-style options are great.
This is probably one of our most regular takeaway orders on lazy nights in. Great value too. (Credit: The Manc Eats)
4. La Casita – Chorlton
Heading out of the city centre for the first time on this list but not all that far, a short tram ride is more than worth it to sample one of the best independents Chorlton has to offer: La Casita. Located along that gorgeous little run of restaurants and bars on Barlow Moor Road, it’s a bit of a stunner if you ask us.
Beautifully flavourful and affordable burritos plus plenty more from one of our favourite strips outside the city; they’re currently closed until further notice, but make sure to visit when they reopen. To be honest, we’d travel for a zesty margarita on that sun-soaked little patio bit every day of the week if we could.
A favourite of our Takeaways Champions king Dean, it sometimes seems mad to think Don Tacos started out life in humble pasty-loving Bolton back in 2016 before going on to become a beloved student outlier on the Curry Mile and ultimately one of the busiest food spots on Piccadilly Gardens.
Cut to nearly a whole decade later and this place has seriously levelled up with another colourful new premises in central Manchester and a bigger menu than ever, which does included burritos. The tacos might rightly steal the show here, but the burritos won’t let you down either.
Known for their tacos but also some of the best burritos in Manchester city centre and beyond. (Credit: The Manc Group)
6. Monsieur French Tacos – Oxford Road Corridor
Ok, we’re over a third of the way through this thing, so we’re going to mix things up a little by suggesting something that isn’t by no means traditional, but it certainly is tasty – us and the hordes of students certainly seem to think so.
The classic continental cuisine might not be the culture that comes to mind when you think of the masters of burritos, but in the same way that ‘Tex-Mex‘ scran just works, so does the Monsieur French Tacos take on big, cheesy, toasted tortillas. It’s junk food that’s become an instant hit with big crowds.
7. Casa Mexica – Oxford Rd Corridor
Sticking on Oxford Road (or rather just off), The Quardrangle’s Casa Mexica has been helping uni students get the most bang for their buck for years now, and maybe it’s recency bias, but it seems like they just keep getting better every time we go back.
With its colourful aesthetic and cosy interior that feels like you’re transported to a little corner of Mexico, we’d wager this is one of the best value for money burritos in Manchester, with fantastic plant-based options too. Our very own Thomas had his first experience here and said he’d go back for the staff alone.
Comfortably up there with one of the best places for burritos in Manchester, no doubt. (Credit: The Manc)
8. French Taco’o – Salford
From authentic Mexican back to experimental modern twists and another example of the ‘French taco’ trend, which in truth are closer to a burrito or a quesadilla that the street food staple that lends its name. Either way, the first time we tried was over on the edge of Salford and were blown away.
In truth, French Taco’o might look like many other unassuming takeaways you’ll find in Manchester or any city for that matter, but this place is quietly one of the best bits of fast food we’ve had in ages. They do plenty besides their version of a burrito, but how can you say no to one with chips, cheese and doner in?
If the last entry is the cheaper, greasier, but ever-delicious late-night option, then the burritos being served out of the new Salon Madre spin-off bar and pool hall attached to the main building is the elevated version of the very accessible staple.
Our only criticism of Madre‘s burritos the first time we tried them pre-Salon days was that the taste may have been incredible, but no rice in favour of more beans made for a slightly sloppy experience. However, they’ve continued to fine-tune their dishes since then, and the flavours are as good as ever.
Credit: The Manc
10. La Capilla – Stockport
Heading the furthest out into Greater Manchester that we’ve been yet, La Capilla Stockport can’t truly be counted as a hidden gem anymore because the locals definitely know how good it is, and so do we. We’ve heard the breakfast is good as well, but we’ve yet to experience it for ourselves (yet).
This little corner of the old marketplace used to be Blackshaws Kitchen and a Pure Innovations charity cafe before that, but now it’s serving some seriously lip-smacking contemporary Mexican dishes, including burritos. Just look at the lovely ‘leoparding’ on the crusty exterior of that wrap. Oof.
Heading back into the middle of 0161 now, one of the newest additions to the Manchester burrito climate is the Australian-founded multinational fast food franchise, who’ve already made a big splash with the debut in the city centre.
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We’d consider this a brilliant starting point for anyone who doesn’t eat burritos all that often but also a really reliable spot for anyone who looking for a quick dine-and-dash place to grab one. Not only are they good value but they’ve done plenty of giveaways and offers since launching too. See what you think.
There’s one dangerously close to the office… (Credit: The Manc)
12. Sandinista – Central
In at number 12 on our list of the best burritos in Manchester is one that we’re afraid to say we’ve never grabbed a picture of ourselves – at least not one that we can safely share this the general public.
The reason for that is that this beloved late-night Latin American bar, as unbelievable as the food may be, is for unapologetic, rough and ready eats, so we’re usually in there getting irresponsibly drunk, and our hands would be far too shaky to do our jobs properly. ‘Keep calm and drink yourself silly at Sandinista.’
Brewski screams in at the baker’s dozen mark because, of course, they blood do. The absolute pinnacle of indulgent cheat food not just in Chorlton but arguably the entirety of Manchester, these oversized legends may not be the best for your calorie count, but they certainly leave us feeling fuller than most.
You might find ‘grande’ and extra-large burritos in plenty of places around the 10 boroughs, but we challenge you to find anywhere else that does super-sized stuffed-crust burritos that are quite literally as big as your head. They’re best served as part of a big ‘mate dates’ platter, but that’s just us.
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14. Ancoats Tacos
We’re nearly the finish line now and we simply had to give a spot to an unsung hero of the Mexican street food scene, formerly known as Terra Tacos, which is currently undergoing a rebrand as we speak. Safe to say we can’t wait for a taste of what’s next.
Having gone from a trailer to serving as a pop-up in Urban Exchange, making deliveries to the nearby Cask site on New Islington Marina and now catering to big events and private hire, they’re an ambitious bunch, and you’d be a fool to sleep on their food. We see brilliant new burritos in their future.
Credit: The Manc
15. The Mexican – Fallowfield
Last but not least, we came across this one through nothing but sheer word of mouth from those still lucky enough to still be living the best days of their youth over in Fallowfield and having now tried for ourselves, we can confirm they aren’t half bad either.
We’ll confess that having a cute little kid as the resident presenter on your socials definitely scores you bonus points with us, but come on, if you can’t get behind for a local family business serving scran to the Manc masses, then who can you root for?
If you can’t find the burrito to suit your needs on this list, then please feel free to share your knowledge with us as soon as possible – we don’t mind being humbled with better suggestions.
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Honourable mentions have to go to the likes of the OG Barburrito, Wrap It In over in Trafford Park – we don’t mind a no-nonsene Tortilla since there are so many of them around now either.
Guess we’ll just have to update this with another five when we get a second…
It goes without saying that this isn’t a comprehensive list of the best burritos across every corner of Greater Manchester, at least not yet, anyway. Nevertheless, it should be more than a good enough place to start. Happy eating!
Beloved plant-based independent street food business Herbivorous is set to close imminently
Danny Jones
We hate writing this, but we have news of yet another local hospitality closure as beloved Manchester-born and pioneering plant-based brand Herbivorous has confirmed they’ll soon be calling it a day.
If you can hear us sighing through the screen, apologies – we’re just getting really fed up of saying farewell to our favourites, so god knows how rubbish those involved feel.
As you can see, the team behind the multi-location vegan street food specialists began by writing: “It’s a long one so stay with me… It seems you can’t open social media at the moment without reading about another hospitality business closing down.
“Throughout 8 years of Herbivorous years we’ve come up against many challenges from Covid 5 years ago to watching all the big vegan brands from London and beyond come to Manchester and largely disappear again to the closure of Hatch our busiest site, but with continually increasing costs its becoming really difficult to maintain a thriving business.”
Herbivorous started out life back in 2016 as a cult hit at the old outdoor food, drink and entertainment hub centring around a ‘container village’, the first of its kind in the city and soon to reopen under new owners and a new name.
Since then, co-founders Robyn and Damian have gone on to expand not just to one permanent site over in Withington but with outposts in Sheffield and York, having gained a strong reputation with stalls and pop-ups all over.
Their hospitality story might not have the ending we personally would hope for, but it’s been a brilliant one for so many foodie fans – us lot included.
Nevertheless, they go on to add in the emotional statement that external pressures such as a recent bereavement and their own ever-growing family have also contributed to the decision which, despite being an understandably hard one, “feel like the right time.”
“We are so incredibly proud of how far we’ve come from spending long days slinging duck wraps from our green vintage horse box at festivals to three Herbi locations across the North of England”, they continue, “and with that we’ve also met so many fantastic people!”
“Whether you worked for us at a few festivals over [the] summer or for years at our restaurant, we just wanted to say and massive thank you! The memories will stay with us forever and, of course, how can we not mention our fabulous customers!
“Thank you all so much for choosing Herbivorous over the years. Those of you who had our food at Festivals and then found us at one of our permanent locations, those of you who came back week after week to Hatch, Spark, Withington and beyond.”
They signed off by detailing their final business days, with their Sheffield Kommune spot having already shut for refurbishment; meanwhile, their spot in SPARK York will be wrapping up on Saturday, 19 April.
As for their flagship brick-and-mortar venue here in Greater Manchester, Herbivorous Withington will be shutting on Friday, 25 April.
Once again, there’s nothing we can say other than thank you for years of delicious food, that we’re guttted to see you go, and that everyone at The Manc Group wishes you the best whatever comes next.
Georgina Pellant -
3rd March 2023 
