When Elite Bistros chef Gary Usher revealed plans to take over a historic country pub in Cheshire, Manchester took notice.
The popular chef behind esteemed eateries Hispi and Kala, Sticky Walnut, Wreckfish, Burnt Truffle and Pinion has certainly made a name for himself in the bistro world, not to mention breaking every crowdfunding record he’s ever set.
Now, he’s trying his hand at something new. Having opened six acclaimed bistros to date, last year he went and snapped up the White Horse pub in Churton: a charming local pub that just so happens to sit down the road from his parent’s house.
At the time Usher revealed that it had always been a dream of his to run the pub as he had ‘always loved it there’ and often walks his dog Billy in the area.
The dining area at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
The bar area as you enter the pub at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
Today, that dream officially became a reality as the pub’s doors reopened for the first time. So naturally, we mooched over to check it out for ourselves.
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Little did we expect the main man himself to be the one to hold the door, but there he was.
When Usher first announced his takeover of the country boozer, he promised ‘delicious, unpretentious food’ and ‘great drinks’. Having tipped in for lunch, it seems fair to say that he has delivered.
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Braised beef with roast garlic and parsley mash, a curried lamb pie and an 18oz dry-aged sirloin of beef to share all jump out at us, but in the end, we opt for the heartiest of hearty classics. Namely fish and chips, and faggots.
For the uninitiated, faggots are essentially chunky little meatballs made from offal and flavoured with herbs and breadcrumbs. A favourite of my dads, I grew up eating them – but only on his birthday, because my mum found the idea of shaping the minced-up off cuts too offputting for any other occassion.
Beer battered haddock and chips with minted peas and tartare sauce at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
Herby lamb faggots with mash, crispy shallots and salsa verde at The White Horse at Churton. / Image: The Manc Eats
Typically they’re made using pork, but at The White Horse the meat of choice is lamb. It works, very well, the herbs running through dense meatballs, which in turn sit atop a bowl of creamy mash pooled with rich gravy. Crispy shallots add crunch. It’s proper.
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As for the fish and chips, we both agree that aesthetically these are the neatest chips we’ve ever seen. “DId they recruit a bricklayer in to lay these chips? They look so neat” quips my dinner date as we dive in.
We agree the fish batter is stodgy, but in the best possible way. Another thirty seconds in the fryer and it would’ve been overcooked.
As it is, though, everything is absolutely spot on: from the thickly sliced homemade pork pie paired with a sunshine-yellow piccalilli, to the chunky slice of Welsh rarebit loaded with lashings of stout and Appleby’s smoked Cheshire cheese.
Slice of homemade pork pie with sunshine-yellow piccalilli and home pickled chillies. / Image: The Manc Eats
Stout rarebit with Appleby’s smoked Cheshire cheese. / Image: The Manc Eats
Yes it’s early days and we’re in danger of running into a rave before the staff have even learnt to walk, but in fairness even the service was impeccable – something you don’t always expect to find at a new opening just finding its feet.
Our server did admit they were slightly terrified about the first day, but during our meal it didn’t show,aside from Gary Usher opening the door himself on our arrival. I don’t expect you’ll be getting that every day.
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That said, the controversial £19.50 burger mysteriously disappeared from the menu just before opening day came around. It just wasn’t perfect, so we’re told, so it didn’t make the cut. Still you can’t criticise them for caring too much, that’s for sure.
This new opening is not trying to reinvent the wheel, at all. If anything, it’s just returning to what the wheel used to be. Comforting classics, done well, with decent pints and an attractive wine list that won’t break the bank (£22 for a bottle).
We do love a good country pub at The Manc, and this is definitely one of them.
Feature image – The Manc Eats
Eats
Worsley-born wood-fired pizza brand set for sensational US expansion
Danny Jones
A Greater Manchester food brand that started in the little village of Worsley is about to go international in a big way as local Leopard Pie pizza is set to take America by storm.
In one of the most major and exciting culinary success stories to come out of Salford in some time, perhaps ever, much-loved pizza Leopard Pie have quietly struck a deal to carry out a significant expansion into the US.
Not only does this mean the likelihood of there being more of their restaurants up and down in the UK but with multiple venues scheduled to open across the Atlantic, the brand could be at the start of an unbelievable global journey.
Come on, how often do you hear a Manc foodie name in the same sentence as the States?
Leopard Pie and their delicious wood-fired pizza are set to make their debut in the US. (Credit: The Manc Eats)
Speaking exclusively to The Manc, Leopard Pie confirmed: “We’re proud to share that Leopard Pie is embarking on a major U.S. expansion with a multi-location deal over the next five years.
“This marks a defining moment in our journey as we introduce a bold new Leopard Pie identity to the American market—while staying true to the heart and spirit that has made our UK brand and locations so widely loved.
“This milestone represents the start of an extraordinary journey as we introduce the next evolution of Leopard Pie—one that amplifies everything that has made our brand beloved while bringing fresh energy and bold new design concepts to a global audience.”
Already working intensely behind the scenes on what they’re hailing as a “visionary new US restaurant concept” for their pizza empire that not only elevated the dining experience but will “set new standards in the fast-casual dining scene”.
They also detailed plans to set up a dedicated domestic base of operations across the pond which will include a world-class training and development hub “to ensure that every chef and operator joining our US family delivers excellence from day one.”
When it comes to Manchester food and drink brands that have blown up, you’d be hard-pressed to any that have gone from an idea that started as recently as 2015 and gained traction during lockdown to expanding within such a fast time frame, let alone on such a massive scale – not even Rudy’s.
The big news now put to one side, it won’t surprise you to learn that Leopard Pie has stated “This is just the beginning”, teasing that they plan to expand into several other key territories and keep building the brand as much as possible.
Owner Lee Chester told us that America always felt somewhat in the stars for the neighbourhood staple; “From the very beginning, Leopard Pie was built with global ambition— the word ‘Pie’ itself a subtle nod to our U.S. vision, a hint as to what was to come.
“I am incredibly proud to be leading the brand into this exciting new era, where my role will evolve to mentor and empower new entrepreneurs to achieve success under the Leopard Pie name.
“I believe wholeheartedly that Leopard Pie’s next chapter will be one of exponential success, built on passion, innovation, and leadership. For those who partner with us now, the potential is immense—and the journey promises to be unforgettable.”
The brand has remained 100% independently owned since day one, having turned down multiple investment offers to date, but is now embarking on what feels like an unprecedented chapter for a local restaurant as they open up to “select strategic partnerships and investments”.
While specifics regarding how quickly the move into America will get underway and just how many sites there will be are still being kept under wraps, more details will be released soon enough.
Lee summed up the next steps by adding: “I believe with absolute certainty that Leopard Pie is entering a decade of unparalleled growth and excitement. For those who choose to partner with us now, the rewards and the legacy we will create together will be remarkable.”
And last but not least, you don’t have to worry about a local joint that started in Worsley forgetting their roots – the Salford staple isn’t just one of the best pizza places in Manchester but their hometown story is what makes this so special.
For now, you’ll still find them serving up full wood-fired Neapolitan pies and slices over in Worsley and from their stall in Kargo MKT in Central Bay, so give it a try if you haven’t already.
Their Kargo MKT site in Salford Quays.It really is very good.Credit: The Manc Group
Bold new Mexican restaurant and bar OCASA to open in Manchester
Daisy Jackson
A vibrant new Mexican restaurant and bar is set to open in Manchester, taking over part of Australasia’s long-standing Spinningfields site.
The former Sunset by Australasia bar and terrace will be transformed into a colourful new Mexican spot called OCASA.
The beautiful space, set to open in time for the Easter bank holiday, will be serving premium tequila, cocktails, and Mexican-inspired food.
The 80-seat sun terrace on The Avenue – just behind Australasia itself (which is currently closed for refurbishment) – will take inspiration from the shores of Tulum to the street food scene of Mexico City.
There’ll be music and entertainment including mariachi bands, ice-cold frozen margaritas, and tableside guacamole, plus BBQ tacos fresh off the grill, Sunday feasts, and loads more. .
In the kitchen will be executive chef Lucie Sainerova, formerly of the prestigious Novikov International, who’ll whip up a contemporary take on Mexican street food.
Lucie said: “We’re taking familiar flavours and elevating them in ways that surprise and excite. From our Dragon Salt Wagyu Tacos to the Lobster Thermidor Nachos, every dish tells a story. This is Mexican food like you’ve never seen before.”
Bold new Mexican restaurant and bar OCASA to open in Manchester
The interiors at OCASA have been designed by BAPPT, and feature textured rock walls, terracotta hues and jade green accents.
It’ll be a relaxed space by day, and a vibrant social hub with DJs, live music and more by night.
The terrace will also have two exclusive Bed Booths for private group dining.
OCASA will become the city’s ‘ultimate tequila destination’ with one of the country’s most extensive collections of premium spirits,.
Georgina Pellant -
3rd March 2023 
