“Malaysian food, it’s not like anything really.” That’s how Juliet Moo, a co-owner of Chinatown’s newest restaurant, Kaya, puts it to me when we sit down for a chat after dinner.
Having just worked my way through piles of fiery curried Laksa noodles, buttery jam toast, tea, eggs, fragrant rice, cucumber, and fried chicken, I want to know more.
The special thing about Malaysian food, she says, is how it takes influence from the country’s three main ethnic groups – Malay, Chinese and Indian.
“Because Malaysia is a multi racial country,” she explains, “our cuisines are unique in the sense that it’s like a combo of all these different cultures and ethnicities coming together and sharing flavours.”
Heat, I have already learnt, is a must. Even the national dish Nasi Lemak – a mellow sort of Malaysian ‘picky tea’ with coconut milk aromatic rice, cucumber slices, boiled egg, fried chicken, peanuts and salty morsels of dried anchovy – has a chilli-based sambal on hand to spice things up.
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Curried laksa noodlees with chicken, prawn and tofu at Kaya in Chinatown. / Image: The Manc Eats
Toast with Kaya pandan jam at Manchester’s new Malaysian restaurant. / Image: The Manc Eats
Kaya hasn’t yet been open a month, but Juliet says they have been ‘overwhelmed’ with the response to the new opening – admitting that they weren’t quite prepared for the number of people they would get coming through their doors.
Most of the flavours here are big and aromatic, with dishes using a lot of lemongrass and galangal, turmeric and other spices.
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That said, there is also a surprising amount of toast on the menu served with homemade Kaya jam and thick chunks of butter that could’ve well been laid on with a trowel.
Eggs come two ways – half-boiled with a little soy and pepper with strips for dipping, or hard-boiled and halved – whilst noodle and rice dishes comprise the bulk of the mains.
It is, as Juliet has already explained, a real mishmash of flavours. But it totally works, with Kaya already drawing in the crowds.
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“It was quite overwhelming to be honest, in the beginning, because we were not expecting this turnout,” she reveals.
“I guess a lot of people are obviously curious as to what Malaysian food is, so we had a lot of people coming in just to try, but we also had a lot of Malaysian coming in, just to, you know, because they feel like ‘oh cool, I can come here and eat the food from home.'”
Fiery laksa noodles at Kaya in Manchester. / Image: The Manc Eats
Kaya can be found on Faulker Street in Manchester’s Chinatown. Image: The Manc Eats
She also says they’ve already found it to be a balancing act with spice tolerance levels. Simply put, some English customers – myself included on this occasion – can’t always handle it.
I don’t know if I was having a bad day, because I’m usually into it when my lips start to tingle and my mouth feels like it’s on fire, but on this particular afternoon, I confess to finding the spicy curry laksa noodles a bit of a challenge.
Juliet laughs and tells me their Asian customers say the opposite – that it should be hotter. It doesn’t do my ego any good, but I suppose I’m not that surprised.
Her goal, she adds, is to make Kaya “as authentic as it can be, but at the same time introduce this type of food to locals.”
“I’m trying to find a balance, it’s been quite overwhelming, but it’s exciting to try new things, see people eat the food and we’re always improving, definitely, we want to make things better.”
Eggs are served as a starter half-boiled then mixed with soy sauce and black pepper with toast strips for dipping. / Image: The Manc Eats
A plate of chicken satay skewers with a chunky peanut dip, diced cucumber and red onion at Kaya. / Image: The Manc Eats
Whilst Malaysian cuisine has exploded in London, here in Manchester we’ve been slower to catch on – at least in the city centre.
For Juliet and her family, though, the lack of competition in town is a plus. They had previously tried opening a different style of restaurant a few years back, she tells me, that was a franchise and on a “very different scale altogether.”
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By comparison, Kaya – she adds – is “very small, but it’s a nice size to start.”
“My brother, Nicholas, my older brother. He’s been in Manchester for I think about thirteen years. So we’re all from Malaysia, so we’re all born and raised there, so he came here for school and he stayed on,” she says.
“So the fact that there’s not much Malaysian food in the city itself made us feel like there could be a chance, so we just went for it.”
It certainly makes a very welcome addition to Manchester city centre.
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Whether you’re already a diehard fan of Malaysian food, or you’re curious to experience something new, take it from me: Kaya is well worth a visit.
Featured image – The Manc Eats
Eats
Cuppello’s latest community-led coffee shop is far from hidden, but it is a proper gem
Danny Jones
Cuppello’s newest site in Stretford is not just the second in Greater Manchester, but their third in the North West as a whole, and it’s their journey from cult favourite Warrington hole-in-the-wall to now a much-loved local coffee house and growing outlet for residents that we love so much.
Having opened their latest location just around the corner from the tram stop only a couple of weeks ago, you’d be forgiven for thinking these lot would only just be finding their footing in a very old school borough – but they’re not. They’re already thriving.
Taking over the reins in the unit which used to house Gigi’s Coffee Shop, three could prove to be the magic number in this instance, as the new crowning point of the Cuppello‘s triumvirate has seriously impressed us on multiple levels.
And besides the food and drink, it all starts with one thing: community.
They’re open from 7am until 7pm. (Credit: The Manc Eats)
From that original village venue over Cheshire, to opening their first city centre site just down Oldham Road near Ancoats, to taking on the no-nonsense town of Stretford, it’s a journey we enjoyed hearing about from its early beginnings to now.
Don’t get us wrong, we love seeing a lineup of unique items in acafé menu – take, for instance, their Spanish lattes or a Mont Blanc – but they’ve done themselves a world of good by making this as much of an up-and-coming community cornerstone as it is another spot to grab a good brew.
Sure, they have fresh flat-pressed bagels by Barbakan Deli in Chorlton, pastries from Companio, as well as artisan bakes by owner Harry Sheridan’s mum, Carol (whose homemade sweet treat obsession started with local legend, The Vakery MCR), but there are so many other reasons to keep coming back…
And yes, that does mean they’re vegan-friendly, by the way.
Besides the obvious brunchy bits like those bagels, which they finish with their own special seasoning, the iced coffees, smoothies, meal deals and so on, more importantly, there’s a full weekly programme of interesting and varied events hosted here too.
From a regular run club and pancake days that you don’t have to wait a whole year until they come back around, to movie nights with smash-burgers from The Food Drip next door, evenings spent playing card games, they’re looking to become not just a place to eat, drink and gather but a veritable institution.
Harry told us about how a Lymm local painted their striking piece of lemon artwork that hangs on the wall as thanks for their work with a nearby old people’s home, one that fits perfectly with the yellow-accented aesthetic, but also goes to show their track record when it comes to serving communities.
Speaking of which, they’ve got plenty of style all their own – as you can see:
Honestly, from being one of the most welcoming stops on a dog walk to even offering £1 hot chocolate for little ones coming home from the neighbouring schools (a very nice touch indeed), we’ve been left very impressed by their debut in old Manc market town.
And if you are in the Stretford area or live centrally and are just on the lookout for a new go-to coffee spot that’s only a few tram stops away, it really is some pretty stunning stuff they put in that cup.
Cuppello’s are known for putting a lot of effort into their roasts, but we’d also like to give a special mention to the ‘Karlito’, named after Harry’s dad, which we believe could be the secret behind this very cool-looking family.
A recipe of his own making, which has kept him youthful and on them move all these years, it’s a rich chocolate poured over four, yes, FOUR shots of espresso. We won’t lie to you, it’s pure rocket fuel, but it’ll definitely set you up for a feverishly productive day.
You can see more of the stuff on their food and drink menu HERE, and in case you’re wondering where else they’ve popped up in and around central Manchester, read more down below.
Acclaimed Manchester cocktail bar named one of UK’s best quietly closes its doors
Emily Sergeant
An acclaimed Manchester cocktail bar that was formerly named one of the best in the UK has quietly closed its doors for good.
Tucked away beneath the former set of Coronation Street in the Old Granada Studios complex, and hidden in the basement of Manchester‘s historic 1800s Bonded Warehouse at St. John’s, Project Halcyon Distillery officially opened its doors in 2022 due to COVID-19 pandemic delays – with the intimate venue going on to become a city favourite.
The acclaimed, Speakeasy-style bar drew inspiration from Prohibition-era Chicago, focusing on ‘halcyon days’ of calm and luxury.
It included an on-site distillery used to create bespoke ingredients for its seasonal menu, and beyond cocktails, even featured a so-called ‘Stillroom’ for masterclasses and had private, curtained room dedicated to absinthe, with traditional fountains, called ‘Salon Vert’.
Project Halcyon has quietly closed its doors for good / Credit: Project Halcyon | The Manc Group
But despite its success over the years, and even earning a place in the coveted Top 50 Cocktail Bars in the UK list on several occasions, Project Halcyon has officially – but somewhat quietly – now closed its doors for good.
“It was with sincere regret that due to unexpected challenges at the ownership level we must close our doors for the foreseeable. Though we say goodbye, the memories live on.
“Thank you to everyone who shared in our craft, our community, and our story.”
After the news broke on social media, Project Halcyon’s Instagram post was flooded with dozens of comments showing support for staff members, and remembering the venue as one of their favourite cocktail bars in the city centre.
The nature of some of the comments also prompted Project Halcyon to issue a follow-up statement below addressing concerns over money owed to workers and other partners, adding: “We sincerely hope that anyone who may be owed by the owners of Project Halcyon – past and present team included – receives what they are owed.
“We are not deleting comments and have no interest in doing so. We also cannot control how Instagram manages comment threads. This page is run by the team, not the owners.”
Georgina Pellant -
6th July 2023 
