The Guardian’s food critic Jay Rayner has headed back up north for his latest restaurant review, with his sights set on Manchester’s swankiest new opening, Fenix.
The two-storey restaurant was one of the hottest newcomers of last year, thanks in no small part to its lavish and luxurious interiors.
The modern Greek-Mediterranean concept comes from the same team behind Tattu, and opened on the edge of Spinningfields in mid-November.
Fenix’s much-talked about interior features details like fake flames above the bar, a ceiling covered in golden grasses, and huge stonewashed arches, along with cutting-edge lighting that transforms it from Mykonos beach bar to moonlit Greek restaurant.
Jay Rayner wrote that he would usually ‘hate such places at first sight’ because so much attention to aesthetics can come at the downfall of the food offering – but his review of Fenix was nothing short of glowing.
ADVERTISEMENT
He described the interior as being ‘like the cantina from the original Star Wars, only with added hummus’, and said the wheat ceiling allowed you to ‘imagine yourself either as Russell Crowe in Gladiator or Theresa May in her wild years’.
Rayner’s Guardian review said: “The food here, courtesy of Greek head chef Ippokratis Anagnostelis, is delightful. Yes, it can be mannered. And no, this isn’t the place for taverna classics. But it really is all sorts of delicious and, in its own way, thoroughly comforting.”
ADVERTISEMENT
The ‘moussaka’ at Fenix got Jay Rayner’s approval in his latest Guardian review. Credit: The Manc GroupInside Fenix in Manchester. Credit: The Manc Group
He raved about the moussaka (‘not so much deconstructed as reupholstered’, but ‘it works’); the taramasalata and ‘hot and blistered’ pitta, the sea bass tartare and the roasted aubergine.
Rayner then hailed the seafood orzo as ‘fabulous’, the creme brulee as ‘accomplished’ and heaped praise on the ‘two thumbs thick’ spiced tiger prawns.
He wrote: “Larger dishes include a leg of slow-roasted lamb for four priced at £95. It must be ordered 24 hours ahead. You’re invited to do so when you book, along with the bottles of Laurent-Perrier Rosé Brut at £125. Well, that just sounds like a spanking night out to me. What do you mean, cost-of-living crisis? Never heard of it.
ADVERTISEMENT
Jay Rayner has raved about Fenix in his latest food review for The Guardian. Credit: The Manc GroupInside Fenix’s lavish bar area. Credit: The Manc Group
“Clearly, I have now very much given myself to this place, with its priestesses, fake foliage and hanging wheat.”
He signed off his review writing: “You have to give yourself to Fenix, much as you might to Disneyland or a cruise of the Norwegian fjords or a Soho torture garden. Perhaps you didn’t think this was your scene. But now you’re here it turns out to have a lot to recommend it.
“Yes, some of Fenix is very silly indeed. The cocktail list includes the vodka-based Apollo’s Lemonade. The description explains that Apollo was damn pretty and good at things like archery and a little light soothsaying. “Our alcoholic version of lemonade is equally vibrant.” That’s good enough for me.
“Like a night in that Soho torture garden, eating here will also prove punishing, especially if you rage through the bargain-free wine list. Then again, that 15ft fake olive tree isn’t going to pay for itself and dancing around one of those like you’ve become your very own Greek god can be fun.
“The other customers here this lunchtime have clearly accepted the cost, for this is Manchester suited and booted and that’s a crowd that knows how to have fun. But even if none of that appeals, even if you don’t want to eat on the sunkissed set of Mamma Mia!, do come for the food. It’s terrific.”
ADVERTISEMENT
Fenix has described their glowing review in The Guardian as ‘an incredibly proud moment’ for the team.
They posted today: “They have worked tirelessly to deliver a unique experience combining beautiful surroundings with ‘exceptional’ Greek cuisine served with passion. Seeing their efforts recognised by the esteemed @jayrayner1 is a landmark moment so early in our journey. We are humbled.”
Viral juice brand Joe & The Juice is making a BIG return to Manchester
Daisy Jackson
Popular coffee shop Joe & The Juice is making a grand return to Manchester, taking on a huge unit in the city centre.
The Danish-based business is famed for its juices, shakes, and sandwiches, including its best-seller, the Tunacado.
Joe & The Juice used to be based within Debenhams in Manchester, but moved out of town when the retailer collapsed.
Now it’s back, signing a 10-year lease on a 2,685 sq ft unit at Manchester Arndale, in the former EE store.
With more than 300 juice bars and coffee shops around the world, Joe & The Juice’s pink branding has become a familiar site globally since its launch in 2002.
It’ll be joining the likes of Michael’s Coffee House, HOP Vietnamese, Sides, Creams, Black Sheep Coffee and Lazy Sundae in the Manchester Arndale’s ever-growing food and drink line-up.
Scott Linard, Portfolio Manager for M&G Real Estate, said: “It is great to welcome Joe & The Juice back to Manchester city centre.
“They have built a brand which has become synonymous with meeting spots across UK towns and cities, so we expect them to thrive at Manchester Arndale thanks to our close proximity to city centre businesses and students keen to catch up over a bite to eat.
“Joe & The Juice adds to our already strong F&B mix as we strive to create a full day out experience for visitors to Manchester Arndale.”
Steve Gray, Head of European Retail Asset Management at Global Mutual, added: “Joe & The Juice selecting Manchester Arndale for its city centre return highlights the continued demand we are seeing from international F&B and retail brands for space at the centre.
“Having a mix of established and growing brands helps to ensure Manchester Arndale continues to be an attractive destination for visitors and allows us to draw in shoppers from across the North West.”
Get Baked announces delay to first Manchester bakery – and ‘monumental’ changes
Daisy Jackson
Get Baked has shared another major update on its move to Manchester – and while things are delayed, the plans are looking bigger than ever.
The viral bakery, famed for its gigantic chocolate ‘Bertha’, was set to open in the Northern Quarter in November.
But they’ve now confirmed the whole process has been delayed until February or spring next year.
The good news is that it’ll be worth the wait – Get Baked is now taking over the unit next door on Stevenson Square too, so it’s an even bigger space for its incredible coffee, pie, and a slice of its legendary 24-layer chocolate cake.
The Leeds-founded brand then teased that they’re bringing ‘monumental changes to our existing offering’ – and ones that ‘nobody will have seen coming’.
Whatever those changes are, they’ll then be rolled out to Get Baked’s Headingley store too.
Summing up what to expect in Manchester, they wrote: “It’ll sort of be like if Greggs shagged Gail’s but it happened in America so there’s sprinkles and unhealthy sh*t just absolutely everywhere.”
And explaining the delay, they said: “I announced the opening of Manchester a few months ago now, and explained that we were hoping for a November opening.
“That obviously hasn’t happened, which is sad, and unfortunately if you miss November, December is a bit of a write off because of Christmas, and so is January because tradespeople like to go back to work half way through the f*cking month.
“In all honesty though, even February is looking unlikely.
“The delay started (oxymoron?) because the renovation of our bakery took a lot longer than planned — we have doubled the size of the space that we moved into earlier in the year, which has been a lot of work, and it’s still ongoing.
“We have already outgrown the newly doubled space, but luckily for us, the unit next door to the one we have just taken, is now up for lease.
Get Baked announces delay to first Manchester bakery – and ‘monumental’ changes
“So, we’re taking that space too, which will mean not only will I be sh*tting my pants at the thought of our overheads, but we’ll also be in a position where we can finally rollout stores the way we want to.”
Their statement also said: “In regard to the pending concept changes, I’ll leave you with this…
“In 2021 when I restarted Get Baked, I had a vision to create my own version of Greggs.
“Greggs is a truly wonderful situation, but it’s got too big for its boots in many ways hasn’t it.
“I’ve never been able to live out my fantasy of creating my version of Greggs, but half a million slices of Bruce (and Bertha) later, I’m nearly there. F*ck Greggs?”
You can keep up with the latest updates on Get Baked Manchester HERE.
Daisy Jackson -
22nd January 2024 
