There’s no skirting around it. Mondays in hospitality have become a bit dead. They are, in effect, the new Sunday – widely adopted as a day of rest after a busy weekend’s trade, a welcome opportunity to save some money on the quietest day of the week, or both.
That’s not the case at Ornella’s, though. This tiny Tameside pasta kitchen may have only opened just a few months ago but it’s completely overflowing when we visit, chancing our luck with a lunchtime walk-in (not the smartest move on my part, considering it’s a half-hour drive from town).
Having managed to sneak in early and snag the last free table, we wouldn’t recommend that you do the same. We soon overhear eager diners being politely turned away, despite the fact that It’s only ten past twelve. They’re already fully booked.
Image: The Manc Eats
Image: The Manc Eats
We’ve heard great things about this place – and when the food hits the table, we soon see why there’s such a clamour at the door. This unassuming little Denton cafe is, no shadow of a doubt, serving some of the best pasta dishes in Manchester.
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Sicilian-born Ornella’s perfectly plump lobster ravioli is the star that draws us in, but it’s a butter-drenched crispy sage and hazelnut spinach ricotta ravioli that has me closing my eyes and murmuring sweet nothings.
Another bowl of carbonara bucatini has a similar effect, its fat ribbons are liberally doused in pepper and egg yolk, with crisp flecks of guanciale on top, all glistening in the sun. I think this might be pasta heaven.
We also order a few slabs of gorgeously fluffy, spongey focaccia as a vehicle to hoover up a creamy pot of hummus, a rich pool of olive oil swimming happily on its surface. Prior to opening her kitchen, Ornella was the head chef for Pollen, and it is clear she picked up a few tricks along the way.
There’s more to shout about here too, not least the satisfyingly smooth pearls of cantaloupe melon that come nestled inside very generous pockets of parma ham. The accompanying rocket, however, I mostly leave untouched.
As for the arancini – my god. Crunchy and crisp on the outside, but not greasy or oily in the slightest, it’s the most perfect specimen I’ve ever had the pleasure to enjoy, a gooey nduja and mozzarella center positively oozing and made even better by an accompanying hot honey dip.
There is pudding, too, in the guise of a classic tiramisu and traditional Sicilian gelato-filled brioche – another example of Ornella’s bread-making talents. They’ve run out of pistachio, and instead, offer vanilla with an added layer of fruit compote, a suggestion we gladly accept.
Unbelievably, my dining partner has already reached her limit after a few scoops of tiramisu so I valiantly soldier on, doing my best two eat two desserts at once. Sometimes this food reviewing lark really puts you to the test, let me tell you. It’s a hard job, but someone’s got to do it.
Inevitably, the last morsels of the soft, buttery brioche bun defeat me – but not before I mop up all the best bits. Simply put, food like this is too good to go to waste. It’s no wonder she’s so busy.
Feature image – The Manc Eats
Food & Drink
A new pasta restaurant is opening inside the old Vertigo site on Cross Street
Georgina Pellant
A new restaurant selling freshly made pasta is tipped to open in the old Vertigo unit on Cross Street later this year, proving that when one vegan door closes another one opens.
Pastan, a plant-based pasta kitchen that first began life in London’s Covent Garden in April 2021, has submitted a planning application to take over the site from September.
If successful, it will see the new arrival take over 18 Cross Street, the original home of beloved Manchester vegan eatery Vertigo, which sadly closed its doors in March with bosses citing ‘significantly increased’ running costs.
Co-founded by Dean Fawcett and Jerome Ibanez when the world of hospitality was just beginning to reopen after the second lockdown, Pastan has hosted a number of pop-ups across the country.
Founders Dean and Jerome pictured with former Pastan team member Sienna at their Notting Hill pop-up. / Image: Pastan.UK
The duo says they ‘make no compromises’ when veganizing ‘such a classic’ as mac and cheese. / Image: Pastan.UK
It started off as a pop-up in Neal’s Yard, Covent Garden, before heading to Bristol throughout the summer of 2021 for a second pop-up opened at the Nectar House, Gloucester Road.
Following that, the owners set up a third and final pop-up in Notting Hill from September to November 2021, before opening its first permanent restaurant just around the corner from the capital’s famous Smithfield Market.
Now, it looks like they’re planning to expand into the north with a second restaurant here in Manchester
If successful, going by its London menus the new restaurant will focus on simple, fresh pasta dishes, serving up the likes of fried gnocchi loaded with a choice of sauces including BBQ jackfruit, cheese, pepper or pomodoro, alongside time-tested Italian classics like cacio e pepe and carbonara at lunch.
Image: Pastan.UK
Image: Pastan.UK
Elsewhere, you’ll find cavatelli mac and cheese topped with breadcrumbs and crispy onions, plantshakes loaded with donut skewers, Lotus Biscoff mini doughnuts and scoops of ice cream.
Come to the evening things will then be taken up a notch, with a different menu served from 5pm featuring charcoal-activated taglioni served with dill hollandaise, salsa verde-dressed pea and shallot ravioli, and a beetroot hummus-topped cheesy tagliatelle with courgette spaghetti and crunchy veg.
Pastan’s founders have over 20 years of hospitality experience between them but made the decision to set out on their own after struggling to find healthy, plant-based pasta.
With a cooking ethos that swerves away from any refined or unnatural ingredients, it’s sure to be a welcome addition to Manchester’s dining scene – particularly to city centre vegans missing their Vertigo lunch (or dinner) fix.
To find out more ahead of the new opening, head over to Pastan’s social media pages here.
The Ethiopian restaurant hidden above a takeaway in Manchester’s gay village
Georgina Pellant
Tucked above a takeaway in Manchester’s gay village is one of the city’s best-kept foodie secrets.
It’d be easy to miss if you didn’t know it was there, with a very small sign only really visible from neighbouring Richmond Street – not from Sackville Street, where you enter.
Accessed through the Istanbul Express takeaway via a winding staircase, it feels like one of those bar-in-a-bar gimmicks – except this isn’t the Northern Quarter and the hidden entrance isn’t designed to be an ‘Instagram friendly’ photo opportunity.
At this no-frills joint, it’s all about the food – not your social media pictures.
The dining experience here pretty much revolves around the injera, with curries either served on top of a huge sharing plate-style sphere or accompanied by rolls on the side / Image: Spotted By Locals
The authentic Ethiopian restaurant once laid claim to being Manchester’s only such eatery – but has recently been joined on the scene by another of the same name, located in Ancoats and at Mala. As far as we can tell, the two aren’t connected.
Serving up traditional Ethiopian curries on soft, spongy sourdough-fermented injera bread, Habesha has been quietly ticking away for years pulling in a steady stream of regulars.
The dining experience here pretty much revolves around the injera, with curries either served on top of a huge sharing plate-style sphere or accompanied by rolls of the soft, fluffy bread – perfect for scooping up all those little last morsels of sauce at the end of your meal.
To get the most out of the experience here you should really also eat with your hands, although there is cutlery on hand for those who might need it.
erving up traditional Ethiopian curries on soft, spongy sourdough-fermented injera bread, Habesha has been quietly ticking away for years pulling in a steady stream of regulars / Image: TripAdvisor
For meat-eaters, there’s a couple of different options to choose from and it’s customary to order a few and share. If you’re a lover of spice, something like the Awaze Tibs will probably be up your street.
A dish of tender lamb cubes well cooked with onion, tomato and hot pepper sauce, it comes with a ‘hot and spicy’ warning suggesting it is not for the faint-hearted.
Elsewhere, there’s a slow-cooked, tender chicken dish made using thigh meat called Doro Wot that comes served with an egg, and the Ethiopian answer to steak tartare, beef Kitfo.
This dish of lean minced beef mixed with chilli powder, herbal butter and cardamom can be cooked either medium or well done to request, but is also not untypical to be eaten raw.
Taking part in an Ethiopian coffee ceremony is also a must if you visit / Image: TripAdvisor
There’s plenty for vegans and veggies here, too, not just meat-eaters – with a small selection of dishes like Yetsom Beyaynetu (spicy red lentils, yellow split peas, cabbage and carrots, shiro and house salad) and Shiro (powdered chickpeas cooked with onion, garlic and pepper) catering to those with a plant-based diet.
And on the drinks front, you’ll find a selection of Ethiopian and Eritrean beers and wine alongside more typical American brands like Budweiser and Red Bull.
A true hidden gem, if you’re in the village this weekend celebrating Pride and fancy a scran seriously consider giving it a look in.
Whilst its homely decor will make you feel a world away from the street parties below, the speaker systems on Richmond Street are guaranteed to still bring the vibes through the open windows.
To find out more about Habesha and view the full menu, click here.
Georgina Pellant -
5th August 2022 
