When Siam Smiles was still a little cafe in a Chinatown supermarket it received serious rave reviews. Since moving up to Deansgate Mews, however, it seems to have been forgotten about a little.
Most famously described as “the most exciting thing to happen since the days of the Hacienda” by Marina O’Loughlin in a 2014 review for The Guardian, owner May also made headlines for teaching herself to cook on Youtube after her chef left the business one month after opening.
National critics, like O’Loughin and others, were seemingly drawn in by the cafe’s novelty – not one review missed the opportunity to mention the supermarket, or tell you how the ingredients in the dishes were often the same as the ones on the shelves.
But since it has moved over to The Mews, an oft-forgotten back street within the Great Northern Warehouse complex, the reviews have gone suspiciously quiet – so we thought we’d pop in to see if it’s all still up to scratch.
Spoiler alert, it definitely is.
Stir fried chicken Pad Ka Paow with jasmine rice and a fried egg. / Image: The Manc Eats
Inside SIam Smiles on Deansgate Mews. / Image: The Manc Eats
Two years after that rave review from O’Loughlin, rising bills forced the cafe to close – but with a little help, May reopened in 2016 at the Great Northern Warehouse. It’s here that you’ll still find her cooking up a storm today.
With bills firmly on the rise once again, we thought we’d pop in to shine a light on this longstanding Mancunian gem and are happy to report her food hasn’t faltered one iota.
We went for stir fried chicken Pad Ka Paow with jasmine rice and a fried egg, and a steaming bowl of KuiiTiwe Moo Nam Tok with fresh egg noodles and roasted duck breast, with two glasses of Singha on the side.
A hearty portion of green papaya salad with dried shrimps. / Image: The Manc Eats
A steaming bowl of KuiiTiwe Moo Nam Tok with fresh egg noodles and roasted duck breast. / Image: The Manc Eats
We also couldn’t help but opt for a hearty portion of green papaya salad with dried shrimps, a dish that’s hard to find but something of a speciality here, as well as a second glass noodle salad with plump prawns and minced pork.
The dressings, always made by May herself, completely hit the spot with their balance of hot, sour, salty and sweet.
We strongly recommend you pop in and show Siam Smiles some love. It’s not all just about the shiny new restaurants, after all. We need to treasure the veterans too – and this is one we need to protect at all costs.
Find the cafe on Deansgate Mews Unit G Upper Level ,Great Northern, 253, Deansgate, Manchester M3 4EN.
Feature image – The Manc Eats
City Centre
Local brewery J.W. Lees is helping bring back Manchester’s beloved Boddingtons beer
Danny Jones
Greater Manchester, it’s time to rejoice in the return of a cask king, as Boddingtons is coming back in a big way and local brewery J.W. Lees is helping spearhead the revival.
The famous ‘Cream of Manchester’ has slowly dripped away over the decades, being found in fewer places by the year, though some holdouts have remained.
Fortunately, those who are truly passionate about Boddingtons and their love for the delicious golden ale haven’t waned over the years, helping keep it alive on keg in the few Manc pubs still serving it.
But while it was the Keg that kept Boddingtons alive, now, thanks to the native brewers, beer brand and pub chain, the popular beer is being given a fresh start back in its native home of a cask. By’eck – it’s back…
They’re hoping to make sights like this a thing of the past.More of this, please.(Credit: The Manc Eats)
Teaming up with the global Budweiser Brewing Group (BBG), which will now oversee the resurrection of the modern-day ‘Boddies’, J.W. Lees will be bringing the cask ale back to the masses.
Just in time for cosy, autumnal nights in the pub, no less.
Planning to reintroduce it in their pubs across the region, before hopefully taking on the North West and beyond, they’re promising to make it “smoother, creamier, and brewed closer to home than ever before.”
It seems fitting that Lees (founded in 1828) should be entrusted with one of our oldest beers in Boddingtons, which dates back to 1778 and went on to become not just one of the biggest beer brands in the UK but also one of the first to be canned and mass-produced on the shelves across the country.
To toast the return and impending supremacy of Boddies, J.W. Lees Albert Square pub, Founder’s Hall – which replaced the old Duttons when it opened last year – is even hosting a party to celebrate its comeback, featuring some of the very first of the new pints to be poured to the public on 23 September.
This isn’t just a reboot; the new and improved Boddies brand comes with a new 4.0% ABV recipe, looking to join the lineup of premium British ales.
William Lees-Jones, Managing Director J.W. Lees, said: “When I joined JW Lees in 1994, Boddingtons was ‘The Cream of Manchester’ and we were in awe of their position in leading the cask beer revolution.
“We are planning to put Boddingtons back where it rightly deserves to be as one of the leading premium UK cask beers, particularly in our heartland of the North West.
“We also look forward to working with Budweiser Brewing Group with their portfolio of market-leading lagers and premium packaged beers in our pubs.”
Major Greater Manchester tram line to shut all this weekend for ‘essential’ track replacement
Emily Sergeant
A major programme of planned and coordinated work to replace tram tracks in Greater Manchester is finally set to be rounded off for the year.
But first, one of the region‘s major tram lines will need to shut for a full weekend.
Transport for Greater Manchester (TfGM) has confirmed that essential maintenance will be carried out on the Ashton line for three days this extended weekend, and during this time, no trams will run between Piccadilly Gardens and Ashton-under-Lyne, and a replacement bus service will operate between the affected stops.
It comes after work to replace ageing tracks between Piccadilly Station and Piccadilly Gardens was successfully completed in early August.
TfGM worked with Metrolink operator KAM to keep trams running from Piccadilly to Ashton throughout the 11-week closure, however on this occasion, it will not be possible to do so and the line will have to shut to the public.
Taking the tram on Fri, Sat or Sun?
No trams will run between Piccadilly Gardens & Ashton-under-Lyne, due to works.
A bus replacement service will serve the affected stops.
Service changes: Piccadilly Gardens – Eccles/MediaCityUK, Altrincham – Bury.
All essential maintenance works that have been carried out and completed this year form part of a long-term plan to ensure ‘safe and reliable’ services – with TfGM having invested nearly £150m to ‘maintain, upgrade, and improve’ the Metrolink network through to 2027.
During this closure, additional work will also be carried out across the Ashton line network – including drainage works at locations in Droylsden and Audenshaw.
“This is the final piece of this year’s planned track replacement programme, and we would like to thank everyone for bearing with us while these essential upgrades have been carried out,” commented Danny Vaughan, who is the Chief Network Officer at TfGM.
“As more people choose to get on board the Bee Network, it’s important we continue to invest in our tram system to keep it safe, reliable and accessible for years to come.”
Georgina Pellant -
23rd September 2022 
