Inside the lasagne speakeasy and sandwich shop on the outskirts of Ancoats
For those who still cry "make Ancoats rough again" this little spot on Radium Street, with its distinct lack of airs and graces, should be just the ticket
On the outskirts of Ancoats, you’ll find two of Manchester’s best-kept takeaway secrets: Bada Bing and Lazy Tony’s Lasagneria.
Run by couple Meg and Sam, Bada Bing serves up some of Manchester’s henchest sandwiches; whilst Danny ‘Keko’ Smith’s Lasagneria (as you’ve probably already guessed) specialises in big fat slabs of lasagne and giant mozzarella dipping sticks.
Small portions are definitely not a thing here, not that we’re complaining.
Between them, these two dark kitchens are returning some underground DIY cred to what’s left of ‘old Ancoats’ – the once-scruffy, un-gentrified little Italy of days gone by.
So for those who still cry “make Ancoats rough again” this little spot on Radium Street, with its distinct lack of airs and graces, should be just the ticket.
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It’s a far cry from the clean and shiny, commercial “ghost” kitchens that have sprung up all over the city since Covid. Inside, it’s a roughly-hewn, make-do sort of space: part-artists studio, part-junk shop, part-professional kitchen.
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Still, that’s not stopping these chefs from pulling in queues that line all the way up the street. If anything, it only adds to their cache.
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The trio has known each other indirectly for years, all working stints for the likes of Liars Club, Lust, Liquor, and Cane & Grain – albeit not always at the same time.
They’ve put in more than their fair share of time in other people’s kitchens, making it a dream come true to now be independent and working on their own successful projects.
“Everyone’s stuff has taken off a lot quicker than we were expecting so we’ve just had to be very adaptable,” says Danny, who’s gone from selling 40 lasagnas a week to over 200 in the space of a month.
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The two kitchens share a small prep space on Radium Street, which they also use as a retail pickup spot for customers (and delivery drivers) to come and collect weekend orders.
Trading on the same days, but at different times, they split it between them – with Sam and Meg coming in for the morning shift, and Danny and co swapping in for the afternoon.
Still, he tells us: “the classic thing that happens [where] they get people coming to them all lunch asking about lasagne, [then] we get people coming to us all evening asking about sandwiches.”
The Manc
The Manc
As well as operating out of the unit in Radium street, Bada Bing has also expanded into a disused flapjack factory in Miles Platting which they’re sharing with another hotly-tipped indie startup, bakehouse Batard.
This is where Sam and Meg churn out all their amazing hoagies, made using their own recipe perfected by way of trial and error in the first lockdown. Baked off fresh every morning, whatever doesn’t sell is then taken down to the homeless shelter at the end of the day.
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They also use the space to prep filling ingredients like their giardiniera, an Italian relish of pickled vegetables which Sam tells us they get through “an insane amount” of.
Menu mainstays include house hoagie ‘The Bing’ and ‘The Muffulleta’, whilst new specials appear regularly to keep things fresh for their loyal fans.
Right now they’re serving a take on Philadelphia’s second most famous sandwich, The Philly Roast Pork.
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Of course, everyone knows and loves the cheesesteak – but this is probably more up Manchester’s street, given that it comes with a pot of dipping gravy.
“It’s my favourite,” Sam confides.
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Available until 30th May, it’s got gravy inside and out with a generous smattering smeared across the thinly-sliced roast pork shoulder inside.
Other specials, meanwhile, include The Sicilian and vegan sandwich Dr Greenthumb, laughingly described as “all the green things… that we are allowed to put on sub anyway.” Cheeky.
When it comes to future plans, a shared retail unit might be on the cards further down the line.
For now, though, the guys are talking about getting involved in an outside communal area attached to their current building on Radium Street.
Recently, it’s been used as a home for the new Ancoats pop-up market – but Danny tells us that, come this summer, they’re hoping to do some cool open-air drinking and dining events out there.
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“We’re thinking about having it as just something for the building where everyone can contribute,” he says.
Explaining that Witch Kings Rum, based in the building’s ground floor unit, already has a premises license, he tells us of a plan to sell drinks directly into the courtyard alongside food from the dark kitchens upstairs.
It’s very much something for the summer, with everyone involved planning to chip in together for furniture and then share the outside, partially-covered space. With room for around 30 covers, it’ll be a pretty intimate affair.
Like so many ex-hospitality staff who’ve gone their own way during the pandemic, both kitchens seem keen to cut out the traditional model and make it on their own.
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After all, ‘why continue slogging it out in someone else’s trenches for minimal perks when you could be building something for yourself?’ seems to be the resounding motto of hospo staff post-covid.
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This past year has presented so many opportunities to overworked, undervalued talents: many of whom have dreamed of having their own places for years but have only just been granted the space, freedom and time to turn those fantasies into reality.
Now that people are doing it for themselves and killing it, we’re not sure the industry is ever going to be the same again. And that could be a very good thing indeed.
Let the Bada Bings and the Lazy Tony’s of Manchester run things, we say. They’ve already been doing it for long enough.
Eats
Didsbury favourite Rustik adjust plans to close after overwhelming support
Danny Jones
Didsbury favourite Rustik recently announced that they would soon be closing, seemingly for good, after more than a decade, but after a fortunate twist of fate, there looks to be a sliver of hope, and like they could be staying open after all.
The beloved neighbourhood cafe and bar has been a staple of the tight-knit foodie neighbourhood since 2015, but the independent Irish eatery confirmed that they were due to shut down permanently by the end of last month.
Confirmed on Wednesday afternoon, 17 September, the casual Manc restaurant and hangout informed their loyal followers of the unfortunate news.
To no surprise whatsoever, their social media has been awash with condolences, collective sadness and support for the local institution, which has also helped lead to a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel.
Updating their followers via social media on Monday, 13 October, Rustik wrote: “We Need You More Than Ever […] We know it’s been quiet since we closed our doors — and honestly, it’s been a tough time behind the scenes.
“So many of you reached out, checked in, sent kind words, and we’ve felt every bit of that love. Thank you. Truly. When we said goodbye, we weren’t sure what the future looked like. But due to unexpected changes and plans falling through, things have come back around… and now, we’re reopening.
“It’s not easy to say this, but like so many in hospitality right now, it’s tough. We know we’re not alone in this — many small businesses are facing incredibly difficult decisions. But instead of closing the chapter, we’ve decided to give it one more shot. With everything we have.
“So, we’re reopening this Wednesday, 15 October, with a brand new brunch menu and the same Rustik heart you’ve always known. For now, we won’t be open in the evenings — but that might change. What matters most is that our doors will be open again, and we can welcome you back.”
Not only is this obviously brilliant news, but Burton Road favourite is also offering guests a 20% discount off the menu until Halloween (31 Oct) – their way of not only encouraging new customers to come through their doors, but also as a thank you to all their loyal patrons over the years.
Again, the return of late dining and their usual full programme of nighttime events still looks uncertain, but for now, they’ll be “serving coffee and brunch Wednesday to Sunday, 9am–4pm, and hoping to see as many familiar (and new) faces as possible.”
They signed off by adding: “This is a fresh start, but we can’t do it without you. If you’ve ever loved what we do, now is the time we need you most. Your support, your presence, even just sharing this with someone who might pop in – it means everything. With love, gratitude, and a little bit of hope — The Rustik Team.”
This positive turn of events comes just a few weeks after what fans thought was the endgame for the West Dids community cornerstone.
Posting across all of their accounts on 17 September, Rustik wrote: “After an unforgettable 10 years on Burton Road, the time has come to close our doors. It’s hard to believe how far we’ve come — never in a million years did we imagine Rustik would grow into what it became.
Expressing their gratitude after the best part of a decade in the south Manchester suburb, they touched upon the post-COVID recovery period, rising business rates, supply chain costs and many of the same challenges that other hospitality venues have cited as reasons for the initial decision.
“From the chaotic, beautiful brunch shifts to late nights dancing on tables to ‘Wagon Wheel’, pushing through the challenges of COVID and helping our community with meals during hard times— we’ve done it all, together.
We sincerely hope the talk of closing proves to be merely a blip and that this next chapter signals the start of an incredible new era for Rustik, and as for you local foodies, we urge you to meet the further call for support and visit them during this crunch period.
Cult Northern Quarter cafe Federal to give out 1,000 free coffees and pastries when it reopens this weekend
Emily Sergeant
Fancy getting your hands on one of the best cups of coffee in Manchester for free?
Manchester’s number one brunch spot, and the UK’s most popular independent cafe, Federal – which has three locations in the city, as well as soon to open in Leeds – is giving away 1,000 coffees this weekend to mark the reopening of its Northern Quarter site, which has been temporarily closed while undergoing refurbishment.
The Northern Quarter cafe first opened its doors in 2014, and after being open consistently for 10 years and being extremely busy in the process, it was time for a refresh.
The NQ site was known for always having people queuing up to get inside, and with the doors are finally being flung open to welcome customers back this weekend, and with free coffees and pastries on the cards, the queues are set to be resume.
Federal will be giving away free espresso drinks that use its Ozone Federal espresso blend – including lattes, flat whites, cappuccinos, and Batch brew for those who prefer their coffee black.
Federal is giving out 1,000 free coffees and pastries when it reopens in the NQ this weekend / Credit: The Manc Group
The cafe will also debut new autumn weekly specials, starting with a Biscoff Chai Latte from Sunday 18 October, which is described as being the ‘perfect cup of warm indulgent goodness’ for autumn.
Free Lovingly Artisan pastries will also be up for grabs for those super-early birds each morning.
Inside the NQ site following the refurbishment, the new interior has all the familiar Fed feels with a relaxed space filled with reclaimed furniture, plenty of greenery, and comfy banquet seating to create that laid-back and down-to-earth charm Federal is famous for.
Timber details and eye-catching signage bring warmth and personality, and tie in beautifully with the delicious menu of fresh food and drinks.
“We haven’t re-invented the wheel, this is all about making customers feel familiar and comfortable whilst improving the flow of the cafe and overall experience,” commented Federal’s Social Media and Marketing Manager, Emily Ribeiro, ahead of the reopening this weekend.
“We can’t wait to see all our loyal customers again and invite them to come and have a coffee on us and celebrate some of our favourite suppliers, who have supported us from day one.”
Federal’s Northern Quarter cafe, on Nicholas Croft, will officially be reopening this Friday 17 October from 7:30am, and will be giving away free coffees and pastries on each morning of the three-day weekend.