Sushi is now EVERYWHERE in Manchester. From grab-and-go takeaway offerings to cool street food-style spots in shipping containers to high-end restaurants that stand their ground on a global scale.
There’s so much sushi around I’m actually surprised Greggs don’t have a range yet.
So why should you go big, with a 14 course, £150 tasting menu? I’ll tell you why – because it really is the treat of a lifetime for any fresh fish fanatic.
Musu, despite its price tag, sits modestly on Bridge Street, just off Deansgate, its regal interior hidden from street view behind tasteful black drapes and a wooden panelled reception.
Once inside the body of the luxurious Manchester restaurant, the pristine wooden aesthetic continues, but whilst most of the restaurant (and incredibly well stocked bar) is dimly lit, the exposed open kitchen and sushi station shine like spotlights, showcasing the true star of the establishment – its chefs.
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I was lucky enough to take a seat for Musu’s Omakase menu.
Omakase translates to ‘I’ll leave it up to you’, demonstrating how the chef, who you’ll be sat in front of for two-three hours, is entirely in control of your dining experience. They’ve selected and constructed a menu based on which fish are in season, fresh, and their own refined preference. And if this meal is anything to go by, I’ll leave all my food choices to someone else forever.
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The day’s Omakase ingredients are presented to you before you eatThe Omakase experience involves sitting at Musu’s chef’s tableStandouts include Musu’s sashimi selection
First you’re shown all the produce that is going to make your meal, and how they were sourced and prepared. The tray of fish gleam like the jewels they are, in both taste and cost.
The 14 plates began with the only hot dish, Miso Soup. This of course is pimped out, with wagyu beef and shiitake mushroom adding to the rich saltiness. The wagyu is so tender it nearly melts into the soup and creates a rich sweet peppery flavour. It’s a strong start.
Next up begins a selection of sashimi. Sashimi is raw fish/shellfish, served only with fresh wasabi and a beautiful five-year-aged soy sauce containing rich sake.
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There isn’t anywhere to hide with sashimi and chef John doesn’t need to. Every dish looks like art, prepared in front of you – it’s amazing to see how expert cuts create exquisite plates. It’s like watching an artfully shot Netflix documentary, only for the TV to reach over and hand you the food after the credits.
Each of the six sashimi tastes so individual. The scallop from the Isle of Sky melts on the tongue, with a subtle salt taste. The four-day-aged Cornish seabass, paired perfectly with the rich soy, brings a sweetness to the fish. The Scottish salmon nearly swims down my throat, it’s so elegant and rich, whereas the Akami (bluefin tuna loin) packs a powerful and delicious fish flavour that you feel in the nose.
Musu’s head chef searing the Chu-toro in front of dinersThe white chocolate dessert at Musu in Manchester
Next came the 10 nigiri, fish served on a bed of rice. The craftsmanship and precision here is spectacular, with chef John pairing Hamchi with green chillies, allowing spice to burst out with a bite. Red Mullet is seared with a blowtorch and served with Yuzu zest to create tangy treat for the eyes and palette. The spectacle reaches its peak with the charcoal seared Chu-toro, the wooden burnt fish enriched by piney-smoky flavour. Finally the last nigiri is an A5 Wagyu beef, with autumnal truffle, a wild, earthy end to the nigiri.
I actually think ending on the Wagyu would be a perfect circle, meeting back to the start with the Miso Soup, but there’s one more fish dish before a sweet treat. It’s the Temaki, seaweed wrapped Tuna with Chu-toro, spring onion and sesame. It’s a big end to the fish dishes, the strong meaty tuna taste a perfect contrast to the fresh raw veg.
Finally the dessert, simple small and elegant salted white chocolate, served perfectly cold, with soya milk crisp, and almond dust providing a rough change in texture, and helping to stagger the sweetness. It’s a triumphant ending.
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The Omakase menu is not just a treat, it’s an education in how sushi can be masterfully executed, right here in the heart of landlocked Manchester.
Celebrity chef James Martin closes Manchester restaurant after more than a decade
Daisy Jackson
James Martin Manchester has closed its doors, bringing an end to the chef’s decade-long restaurant partnership with casino Manchester235.
Metropolitan Gaming announced on 1 October that its partnership with James Martin and his team had concluded, with the restaurant operation at the city centre venue ending on the same day.
The partnership dates back to 2012, meaning James Martin Manchester had been part of the Manchester235 experience for more than 14 years.
During that time, the restaurant became an established part of the venue’s food and drink offering, with Metropolitan Gaming describing the collaboration as ‘successful and valued’.
The company also credited James Martin and his team with contributing to Manchester’s wider food and dining scene, as well as providing high-quality dining for Manchester235 guests.
Maxine Gibbons, Venue Director at Manchester235, thanked the chef and his team for their contribution to the venue.
She said: “Our partnership with James Martin and his team has been an important part of Manchester235’s story since 2012.
“We would like to thank James and everyone who has been part of the James Martin Manchester team over the years for their commitment, hard work and the memorable experiences they have created for our guests.”
Gibbons added that the team had made a ‘significant contribution’ to Manchester235’s food and beverage experience and wished James Martin and his colleagues ‘every success for the future’.
The closure will not result in affected employees losing their jobs, with Metropolitan Gaming confirming that any employees impacted by the restaurant’s closure have been retained within the business.
Customers with existing restaurant reservations will also be contacted directly by Manchester235 regarding cancellations.
First look inside Locker and In Hand, a brand-new music venue and gig-friendly food concept at New Century
Lydia Mastrolonardo
There are two fresh new concepts taking over the ground floor of our well-known and loved New Century, serving up a brand new menu of gig-night bites as well as grassroots music events.
Launching side-by-side are Locker, a 450-capacity grassroots live music venue, and In Hand, a food offering that promises ‘gig-friendly’ food like Detroit-style focaccia pizza pies, 24-hour brined chicken tenders, sandos and sides.
Both concepts will launch in sync today, marking a significant new chapter for the restored venue, which has pivoted away from its previous New Century Kitchens food hall concept.
With the previous food traders moving on to fantastic new ventures, this new chapter allows one sole food offering to sit alongside the beloved bar area, keeping simplicity at the forefront of the concept.
The menu is designed for speed and ease, ensuring you can grab a quick bite in between sets at Locker or New Century Hall without missing out on the music, whilst still holding your drink of choice in your other hand. Perfect for keeping the night going, instead of having to leave mid-event to get some food to fuel you.
This no-mess menu is serving up deep pan Detroit-style focaccia pizza slices or 8×10″ full pies, featuring everything from a classic margarita or pepperoni through to a chicken parm, mushroom and truffle or Detroit hot loaded with jalapenos and ‘nduja hot honey. Oh – and every pizza comes with their signature caramelised cheese crust – have we said all of your buzz words yet?
Detroit-style pizzas at In Hand at New CenturyThe main bar at New Century will serve Locker and In HandIn Hand food is designed to be gig-friendly
If it’s more just a bite you’re after, there’s a wide selection of grab and go sides. Our personal favourite were the 24-hour brined, double fried chicken tenders, available in a range of flavours such as lemon pepper, garlic parmesan, ‘nduja hot honey, smokey BBQ and masala mayo.
Though if it’s something more filling you’re seeking, then there’s their delicious selection of sandos, all served with seasoned fries, like the classic chicken sando, prosciutto and ricotta on focaccia, chilli cheese chicken sando and a roast harissa halloumi.
In Hand will also be open during the day, making it the perfect spot for a post work pint, to quench your thirst and refuel after a shopping spree or as a new lunch spot if you work in and around the Northern Quarter, especially with their lunch time deal.
Inside gig venue Locker at New Century. Credit: The Manc Group
The deal consists of any chicken tenders or a quarter Detroit pizza, plus a side and a soft drink, all for just £10 – it would be rude not to.
Matt Harvey, Head of Food and Beverage at New Century, commented: “The menu is built around what people actually want when they’re at a gig, something that tastes great, travels well and doesn’t slow you down.
“We’ve spent a lot of time getting the foundations right, from developing the dough recipe for the Detroit base through to the brining process for the chicken tenders. Every element has been thought about to ensure In Hand is comfort food done properly, and we think people are going to love it.”
Locker and In Hand are both open at New Century in Manchester today.
The Manc -
16th November 2023 
