Over in Manchester’s Green Quarter, there is a charming restaurant serving up some of the best pasta in the city.
Called The Sparrows, last week it was revealed as one of the new additions to the prestigious Michelin Guide – a recognition that’s truly well deserved.
Long beloved by Manchester foodies, it takes its name from its signature dish, spätzle: a thick, irregularly-shaped pasta so named because its dough looks like birds in flight when scraped, wet, from the board straight into a boiling pan of water.
One-half of the couple behind the restaurant, Chef Franco Concli, hails from Trentino in the north of Italy where dishes often share influences with neighbouring Germany, Austria and Switzerland.
The other, Kasia Hitchcock, was born in Poland close to the Ukrainian border, where dumplings are a comforting part of the food culture.
It makes sense, then, that on the menu you’ll find plump handmade pierogi and pelimeni dumplings stuffed with the likes of cottage cheese and potato, mushroom and homemade sauerkraut, listed alongside gnocchi, pappardelle, tortelli, and the pasta that started it all, spätzle.
The kase spätzle is a must-order dish at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
The pasta dish from which The Sparrows takes its name. / Image: The Manc Eats
One of the beauties of the menu here, specials aside, is that you pick your own pasta and sauce combination. Sauce options include butter and sage, tomato, guanciale, and bolognese, but the must-order dish, the one I always go back to, is the kase spätzle.
Essentially a grown-up, Germanic version of mac and cheese, think fresh egg noodles enveloped in creamy gruyere and Emmental cheese sauce, with braised onions adding a touch of sweetness. It’s a Swabian specialty but also very popular in Germany, Switzerland, and now Manchester too.
As for the bar, there is an enticing list of low-intervention Germanic and Polish wines, plus a strong sake menu.
Before The Sparrows, Kasia’s sake company supplied Umezushi. Now sadly closed, it was once Manchester’s best sushi restaurant and a key player in helping the couple get their start up here.
Pierogi dumplings at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
Pappardelle with chorizo, cherry tomato, spinach and cream at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
Owners had recently converted the archways opposite into prep kitchens, and it was here in 2019 that it all began, with dumplings and spätzle served in a tiny arch that seated twelve at a push.
Needless to say, after a rave from Jay Rayner in The Guardian the restaurant quickly outgrew Mirabel Street and moved to a new, bigger arch no more than five or ten minutes walk away.
As time has gone on, its settings and service have become undeniably sleeker. Its menu, however, has stayed pretty much the same – including its low prices.
On my first ever visit in the summer of 2019, I think my friend and I spent just over £50 on a three course meal with wine. This time, a plate of spätzle is still only £10.50 shared between two of us.
Given everything that’s going on in the restaurant industry, and the fact that I recently saw a far inferior plate of pasta listed at £16.50 in another Manchester restaurant, it’s a very pleasant surprise.
The daily special, tortelli stuffed with butternut squash with an amaretti biscuit crumb. Image: The Manc Eats
The menu at The Sparrows is still amazingly good value despite its ever-growing prestige. / Image: The Manc Eats
As it ever was, the staples are still there: gnocchi and spätzle, pappardelle and a daily special, available to order with your sauce of choice from just £8 a plate.
We also try one of the specials, starting our meal sweet with tortell stuffed with butternut squash and seasoned with the almond crunch of an amaretti crumb.
Add to that long ribbons of pappardelle with an indulgent mix of chorizo, cherry tomato, spinach and cream, a small plate of fresh and fragrant dill-fermented cucumbers, and an excellent bottle of Teliana Valley orange wine, and suffice to say our table was a very happy one indeed.
The house pierogi still come stuffed with the same choices of potato and cottage cheese, or sauerkraut and mushroom, and popular sides of salted rosemary focaccia and sauerkraut are correct and present, priced from £3.75.
Even better, dumplings can be ‘mixed and matched’ at the chef’s discretion – a good option if you can’t decideon your order and want to try a bit of everything.
Inside The Sparrows on Red Bank. / Image: The Manc Eats
Dill-fermented cucumbers at The Sparrows. / Image: The Manc Eats
As for the dessert menu, there’s still the sweet spätzle with cinnamon butter and brown sugar, as well as Daz’s wife’s brownie (Daz being their postman), although I regret to report I overindulged so immensely on the savoury portion of the meal I was too far gone to contemplate a pudding.
The restaurant itself is chic and stylish, with statement lighting fixtures and tall glass windows looking into an open kitchen. But the real marvel is what comes out on your plate.
No doubt it will soon be inundated with new fans, as it should be. Run, don’t walk, whilst you can still get a table. This really is some of the best pasta in town.
Feature image – The Manc Eats
Eats
Magnificent new food hall House of Social opens in Manchester
Daisy Jackson
A whopping great new food hall is opening its doors in Manchester this month – House of Social is officially ready to launch.
This much-anticipated new opening will be a hub for some of the UK’s top food and drink traders, including homegrown talent and lust-after operators from other cities.
With five traders inside, House of Social has taken over a huge space on the ground floor of a new Vita Group student accommodation building.
The venue itself is a modern giant, wrapped around a central bar and huge colour-changing light fixtures.
Spread across two floors, plus an outdoor terrace area, there’s space for hundreds of diners at once across cosy booths, large group tables, and window seats overlooking the First Street neighbourhood.
There are five fantastic traders operating inside House of Social – check them out below.
Mughli
Mughli has moved into House of Social Mughli’s lamb sausage roll with bone marrow gravy
This Curry Mile icon is finally heading to the city centre for the first time in its three-decades-long reign, serving up its popular Punjabi curries as well as contemporary small plates.
Menu highlights include an Indian sausage roll, where the meat is a lamb seekh kebab, and the pot alongside is filled with a bone marrow gravy – think birria taco, but a curry house pastry.
There’s also a giant helping of butter chicken, gently smoked and spiced and made with tandoor chicken; and street snacks like a plate of stracciatella dotted with beetroot, chutneys, and crispy scraps.
Dough Religion
Subs and slices from Dough ReligionA trio of sides at House of Social
These slow-fermented, in-house, New York-style pizza slices are going to be a popular choice at House of Social – but that’s not all that’s on the menu.
Dough Religion is also making gigantic subs, packed with fillings like a fried chicken Caesar, or house beef and pork meatballs.
And there are puddings too, like fat swirls of cinnamon roll thick with frosting, and the ‘Burnt Yorker’, a cheesecake hybrid from somewhere between the Basque region and New York City.
OK Taqueria
OK Taqueria’s tacosThe birria taco from OK Taqueria
Taco paradise has touched down at House of Social with this brand-new California-inspired Mexican food concept.
There’s a rotating menu of tacos, including crispy pork belly al pastor, Tinga chicken thigh, a Baja fish taco.
But for god sake, don’t skip the beef shin birria, served with a pot of consomme gravy for dipping. It’s a stunner.
Burger & Beyond
Burger & Beyond in House of SocialHouse of Social
This is the first time London favourite Burger & Beyond has left the capital, and of course, it’s Manchester who gets it first.
These guys serve up exceptional buns, like a fried chicken hot honey burger, classic cheeseburgers, and a signature dish of the bacon butter burger, topped with crispy pancetta, burnt butter mayo and onion.
There’s also signature tots drizzled in ranch sauce, hot sauce and bacon bits.
Choi Wan
Prawn toast crumpets from Choi WanA full House of Social spread
Prawn toast crumpets! PRAWN TOAST CRUMPETS!! That, and more, are on the menu at Choi Wan, a Chinese street food spot in House of Social.
Charlie Yu has brought his famous satay here, all served with half rice and half chips (an old faithful), then there’s also a half chicken rotisserie served with salt and pepper chips, and kimchi slaw.
And for dessert, it’s Mr Whippy, in various formats.
House of Social will open on Coleman Street on 19 August.
The UK’s only Pina Colada Festival is coming to a town near Manchester this weekend
Emily Sergeant
If you like piña coladas, then there’s only one place you’ll want to be this weekend.
Northwich town centre, over in Cheshire just an hour away from Manchester, is getting a taste of the tropics once again this summer as the popular The Pina Colada Festival returns, and organisers are promising it’ll be the biggest celebration to date.
The festival was first established back in 2021 after a local resident discovered that Rupert Holmes, the man behind the iconic hit ‘Escape (The Pina Colada Song)’, was born in Northwich in 1947.
A social media post suggesting a celebration went viral… and just like that, The Pina Colada Festival was born and is now in its fifth year.
The UK’s only Pina Colada Festival is coming to a town near Manchester this weekend / Credit: Marcelo Verfe (via Unsplash) | Supplied
Taking place this Saturday (16 August), this family-friendly free festival is a Caribbean fusion of street performances, street food, live music, and of course, piña coladas – both alcoholic and non-alcoholic – as far as the eyes can see.
Food and drink will be available across the town centre from Northwich’s bars, cafes and restaurants, all of which put on special events and stalls for the occasion, giving visitors the perfect opportunity to enjoy a bite to eat or refreshments while soaking up the sun.
And this year will see the introduction of a giant urban beach at the top of Witton Street too, alongside a surfing simulator, a free photobooth, and lots more.
The family-friendly festival will be taking over the Cheshire town this weekend / Credit: Supplied
The Samba Parade is back too, and visitors can expect ‘rhythm, colour, and unstoppable energy’ from a variety of dancers, including butterfly performers and vibrant rainbow dress dancers, creating a street spectacle to remember.
There’ll be a whole host of family-friendly activities happening across the town centre too, including free pineapple-themed kids crafts, glitter face painting, and pineapple-themed mini-golf.
Georgina Pellant -
5th February 2023 
