The great British countryside – rolling hills, bleating sheep, lush greenery, and… plump little Vietnamese dumplings.
It’s quite a switch-up on the usual post-hike pub lunch, but the picturesque village of Marsden is now home to authentic gem of a restaurant specialising in dimsum.
Since Oi Dumplings opened earlier this summer, it’s been doing a roaring trade, with groups of people queuing up for a perch on their wooden benches.
Some are in hiking gear – the restaurant is right at the edge of the beautiful Marsden Moor, after all – others are dressed up for dumplings, and dumplings only.
The dinky restaurant is operated by Mollie Power and Maisie Davies, out of a cabin jammed into a courtyard beside the river.
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I’ve seen bigger kitchens in Toys R Us, but while they might be limited on square footage, they’re definitely not short on talent.
Vegan dumplingsThe courtyard at Oi DumplingsLoaded peanut friesOi Dumplings in Marsden. Credit: The Manc Group
Mountains of dumplings, loaded fries, wonton skins, puffed tofu and bao steadily make their way over to our sunny corner of the courtyard (the entire restaurant is currently al fresco).
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Big bully flavours like kimchi, pickled ginger, and crispy shallot are all balanced with impressive precision, for a Sunday lunch experience that will make you forget all about your Yorkshire puddings and gravy.
The stars of the show are the mushroom, kimchi and peanut dumplings, neatly folded into soft wheat wrappers and topped with hibiscus pickles.
Deep-fried bao with condensed milk ice creamSticky rice
A mound of bright yellow Xôi Xéo (Vietnamese sticky rice) come on top of a banana leaf (a nice touch) scattered with peanuts and shallots.
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We go right ahead and dump a side of Chinese puffed tofu on there too, all sticky with hoisin and chilli.
Then there are the loaded fries – seemingly a compulsory item on British-pan-Asian menus these days (not that I’m complaining) – which groan under the weight of their rich, sweet and spicy peanut sauce.
For dessert, there’s currently one option only, but it’s a good one – a deep-fried bao wrapped around condensed milk ice cream. You will end up with melted ice cream down your chin and forearms, and you won’t even care.
As for drinks, Oi Dumplings is currently BYO – which means a trip to the Co-Op around the corner for a nice chilled bottle of £7 prosecco will see you right.
If you, like us, are clinging onto the last dregs of summer with the very tips of your fingers, we might have stumbled upon the greatest day out the north of England has to offer.
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This one’s well worth a trip across the border. Trust us.
Featured image: The Manc Group
Eats
Smash-hit sandwich shop Earl’s is set to open another site in Bolton
Danny Jones
Yes, beloved Bolton butty shop and bar, Earl’s, is set to open up their second location in the Greater Manchester borough, taking the food from the town centre over to Farnworth.
We’re keeping our fingers crossed for a metropolitan expansion either this year or next, but for now, we’re just glad to hear we’re getting more of the good stuff.
Earl’s Day and Night Deli, to give them their full name, is the latest name to join the lineup of new foodie faces joining the culinary boom over at the Farnworth Green development.
Soon, the stacked sandwiches, quality coffee and laid-back vibes will be coming to one of the best up-and-coming new neighbourhoods.
Founded by two local lads, Jonny Eckersley and Andy Partington, the first venue only opened back in December of 2024, but has gone on to become a North West-wide sensation.
Carb connoisseurs will literally travel for this scran, and having tasted it for ourselves a couple of times now, it’s no wonder.
Taking inspiration not only from regional food and drink, but also from the wider atmospheres and culinary cultures of Lisbon, Sydney, Antwerp and more, if they can translate even half the levels of chill from the OG Earl’s into this soon-to-open sister site, we’re sure it will hit the ground running.
As per an official press release, fans and those who’ve never tried it before can “expect a menu packed with freshly made sandwiches, alongside a line-up of hot and cold options available for both grab-and-go and delivery.”
Crucially, they’re also looking to carry over that feeling of a seamless transition between services, blending everything from morning coffee runs and the lunch rush with casual evening hangs.
Co-founder Jonny said in a statement: “We are staying true to our roots by bringing a second Earl’s in Bolton. This new venture helps to fuel our expansion plans and widen our catchment area so even more local people can enjoy the Earl’s experience.
“We have big plans for the space and can’t wait to get started.” An exact opening date hasn’t even been confirmed yet, but we’re already getting excited.
Tom Wilmot, joint managing director at Capital and Centric (the developers behind Farnworth Green) added: “We back standout local operators, and Earl’s is right up there – great food, loads of energy and a proper following already behind them.
“Farnworth Green is shaping up to be a neighbourhood with real character, and Earl’s is only going to add to that. Expect it to be busy.”
Crown and Kettle set to take over another former Northern Quarter bar
Danny Jones
The team behind beloved Ancoats pub The Crown and Kettle have announced that they are set to take over another former bar and restaurant location in nearby Northern Quarter.
We were gutted to see the old place go, but at least we can’t think of many better to take over the unit.
The historic watering hole on the corner of Oldham Road and Great Ancoats Street is said to have stood in that spot since the 18th century, but now the present owners have confirmed they’ll be taking on a third venue, having also opened The Rat and Pigeon back in June 2024.
Many of you may have been to one or multiple of its previous iterations of the site in question over the years, but most recently, it was the Calcio sports bar – and soon it’ll become ‘The Badger’.
Revealing the news online last week, Crown and Kettle wrote: “We’re delighted to announce that our new pub, The Badger, arrives on Dale Street this spring!
“Once home to Calcio, Allotment & Nickelbys, this beautiful old building first served as The Haunch of Venison public house back in the early 1800s. Over the past few months, we’ve been hard at work, quietly bringing it back to life & returning it to its roots as a community pub.
“With The Badger, we’ve set out to create the kind of place we love most, warm, welcoming, full of character, with all the charm of a great countryside pub in the heart of the city.
“Expect cosy corners, traditional pub foods, fine ales & the warmest of welcomes. Made for regulars. Open to all. Worth returning to. We can’t wait to welcome you to your new city centre local. GET SET(T)…” Oh, very good indeed.
We visited Calcio many times over the past couple of years, both for work and pleasure in our own free time; it was a great place to watch the footy, enjoy some matchday scran and roll back the years with retro videogames.
As mentioned, though, not only did it used to be one of multiple Allotment vegan and vegetarian eateries in Greater Manchester – thankfully, their presence still remains in multiple buildings – but it has a past long before that which many people bring up on social media.
Insert, “I remember when…’ post.
While we might not know much about what they have in store for this next chapter, knowing how much we love their current city centre favourites, we’re very excited.
As it stands, we’re also yet to hear anything about a more precise opening date, but at least we know it’s coming sometime soon, and we have every faith they’re going to smash it.
Daisy Jackson -
2nd September 2022 
