There are a lot of good places to eat around the north west. Some are even great. But very few are exceptional – and only one can claim to be the best not just in our region, but in the entire country.
The restaurant in question is Moor Hall.
This two Michelin-star spot, just outside Greater Manchester in Lancashire, opened back in 2017. It achieved its first Michelin star at break-neck speed, proudly mounting a red plaque within six months of opening. A year later, it got its second. It’s been named the Best Restaurant in England two years in a row at the Estrella Damm National Restaurant Awards. And that’s just the tip of the glittering iceberg.
All this might seem quick, but I doubt anyone has walked through these doors without emphatically agreeing that Moor Hall deserves every accolade on its shelves. If I had the power, I’d give it another star on the spot.
The experience begins before you’ve even got through the door.
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You’ll drive through the stone gates and down the winding driveway, passing a lake, a group of geese pottering about on the lawn, and around the back of the beautiful former mansion house.
You could have arrived on the set of Bridgerton (if the Bridgertons happened to have a wine list so comprehensive that the table shakes under the weight of the menu).
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As each guest is given a staggered arrival time, they know who you are the second you walk through the door. Being greeted by name takes us both aback – is this how the Beckhams feel all the time? Fetch me my Birkin! Where’s my security?!
Anyway. The initial grandeur of Moor Hall carries through for the first part of your meal – drinks and snacks in the bar area, where the walls are covered in dark wood and cosy bay windows look out onto the lake.
The main dining room at Moor HallMoor Hall’s Provenance menu The experience includes a walk through the kitchens
Here, you begin to see the many, many cogs that go into making a restaurant like this function. Someone is in charge of water. Someone else is carefully slicing charcuterie into slices so thin it dissolves on your tongue like butter.
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Tiny black pudding bites pack a rich, meaty punch that immediately makes me wish we were staying overnight and could eat breakfast here too (there are 14 guest bedrooms at Moor Hall plus new garden rooms being constructed in the grounds).
The next miniature mouthful bursts open with flavours of barbecued asparagus and smoky chorizo, then a dinky English muffin topped with buttered lobster turns me misty-eyed.
A pair of pretty leaf-shaped crackers, each one embossed with herbs, arrives next, alongside a tin of cod roe and caviar, like a classic pate but 1000 times richer and more interesting.
Crackers with cod roe and caviarAn English muffin with poached lobster
At this point, you’re whisked off your feet by another Moor Hall staff member, who promptly escorts you out the door. Have we done something wrong? Nope – it’s time to see the kitchen gardens.
He expertly points out all the herbs, fruits and vegetables that are grown on-site in the beautiful walled gardens, tended to by a small team of gardeners.
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The tour then spits you out into the kitchen, where each of the many, many chefs whipping up your dinner will greet you with a friendly smile, and chef-patron Mark Birchall offers a warm handshake and yet another snack (this one resembles a small bird’s nest, filled with smoked eel and potato).
While the bar is dark and stately, the dining room is a modern, simple space flooded with sunlight and views of the lake.
The dishes at this stage of the Provenance menu become instantly more theatrical.
‘Royal Oak Rainbow’ – baked carrots with doddington cheese ‘snow’Rudy red Devon beef with beetroot and mustardGuinea hen with morel mushoomsGrilled cornish turbot with mussel and roe sauce
Suddenly we have people spooning brilliant white crumbles onto plates of carrots, herb-infused stocks being poured onto plates, quenelles of butter being rolled out of wooden dishes.
Some dishes are simpler, like a loaf of the best sourdough we’ve ever had, but most are unimaginably intricate, like 80-day aged beef served with beetroot and mustard, and rich guinea hen complimented by even richer morel mushrooms.
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Whatever the dish (and we get through a LOT), it’s the sort of food that makes you stop in your tracks. It triggers involuntary reactions – I keep catching us smiling, or closing our eyes, or gleefully pointing out goosebumps on our arms. I actually well up at one point. I didn’t know ice cream could move me to tears, but laced with spicy stem ginger – a staple on Moor Hall’s menu from day one – apparently it can.
And throughout, Moor Hall will go to great lengths to show you where each dish has come from (because let’s be honest, fine dining sometimes gets so complicated it stops resembling food at all), whether that’s showing the huge joint of meat your dish has been carved from or handing you a tiny card telling the story of Ormskirk gingerbread.
Three of four sweet courses on Moor Hall’s Provenance menu
If you add a cheese course, you’re even escorted into the cheese room (is this… heaven?) to build your own cheese board from the huge selection of British creations inside.
There’s a refreshing level of transparency throughout and although we’re surprised plenty of times, it doesn’t feel like trickery.
It’s hard not to appreciate the meal you’re eating because you’ve seen every painstaking step and every ingredient being used before you’ve even sat down, from the gardner pruning the rosemary shrub to the sous chef placing micro herbs on bright green butter with a pair of tweezers.
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It’s elaborate but intimate, complex but never intimidating.
The cheese room, where you can build your own cheese course
You might wonder how a £235 tasting menu could ever NOT be intimidating to the average person, and that really comes down to the team who work at Moor Hall.
They’re so warm and inviting, it’s like dining with friends. They could switch it up from explaining one of the most intricate menus in the world to joining in with our debate about whether it’s weird for adults to have a favourite colour.
Inside the new Hive Stores as beloved antiques shop adds a beautiful new cafe and bar
Daisy Jackson
It’s not every day that Greater Manchester gets a new business quite as beautiful as the new bar at Hive Stores.
This fantastic local business is now operating partly as an antiques store, partly as a cafe, also selling everyday essentials, quality produce, bakery bits from Half Dozen Other, cheeseboards, and cocktails.
The new addition is a real looker, all dark wood and marble with so much character it feels like it’s been here for 100 years.
Over the years, this little building in Altrincham has been everything from a greengrocers to a bakery to an antiques shop – and now, fittingly, it’s sort of all three of those things at once.
When Steven Sherratt and Gareth Wilkins took the space over, it was with a vision to restore it back to how it would’ve looked in the 1950s and 1960s, as well as offering all the convenience it would have done in its former life but with their own personal style added in.
That means you can pick up some eggs and have an espresso martini at the same time, and the old-fashioned shelving is stocked with Italian brands as well as local produce.
They’re also hoping to bring back the traditional relationship between shopkeeper and customer, which seems to be working – everyone who comes through the door greets them by name.
Hive Stores started life in Altrincham Market as an antiques stall almost a decade ago.
But when Covid hit, Gareth and Steven shifted all their stock over to a space on Grosvenor Road.
Initially, the ramshackle building out the back was all that Hive Stores consisted of, an Aladdin’s cave jam-packed with beautiful antiques and other items from local craftsmen.
Then they added a coffee cart in the courtyard, which became a ‘haven for locals to escape the same four walls’ during lockdown.
Then several years later, the small building at the front of this plot of land became available, and Hive Stores added cafe and bar to its bow.
Following a successful Crowdfunder, they spent more than a year carefully restoring the space, adding in their favourite antiques from their collection like a wall of hand mirrors and silver plates.
Gareth said: “We’ve got antique furniture as the bar, quirky antiques adorning the walls in the dining space, and it’s kind of created that really good mix between modern and vintage.
“We wanted to create something that was timeless, so in years to come, regardless of how we change the decor in terms of mirrors or pictures or anything like that, the building itself will always be timeless.
“We’re very happy with how it’s turned out.”
Gareth continued: “We’ve got loads of people who have followed us literally since day dot in the market.
“So the regulars have been fantastic sticking with us and how we’ve transitioned our business over to what it is now. And so many new faces now too, it’s brilliant, and everyone’s been so complimentary and kind.”
Steven added: “As well as the Crowdfunder, where we raised about £13,000 from the public, we wouldn’t have been able to even start the renovations without the help of Atlantic Timber and Cheshire Marble and CTC tiles, which are all local businesses who were just so generous and supportive.”
Gareth said: “There’s no way it would’ve happened without the help of both the public and other businesses here, we’re forever in their debt.”
The new-look Hive Stores is now open in Altrincham.
Manchester’s most exclusive restaurant, serving omakase sushi to just four customers a week
Daisy Jackson
At a time when sushi restaurants are opening in Manchester more often than I open my fridge, it’s becoming difficult to stand out from the crowd.
But boy oh boy have we found a newcomer that will change all of that, and a new favourite Japanese spot has entered the region.
Sushi Pod is quite possibly the most exclusive restaurant experience in the entire country, seating just four guests per week.
Those lucky few who manage to secure a table (and at the time of writing, you can still book in for dinner in the coming weeks) will be whisked through a whopping 20 courses in a full omakase experience.
Omakase loosely translates to ‘I’ll leave it up to you’ – you just pull up a seat and watch the chef work their magic on the finest quality seafood available.
At Sushi Pod, tucked upstairs above the brilliant Grape to Grain wine bar on Bury New Road, you sit mere inches away from chef Artur Wacewicz.
You have a true front-row seat as he delicately slices tuna, deftly rolls sushi rice into nori sheets, and blow-torches sugar onto exotic fruit.
Artur Wacewicz working his magic at a Sushi Pod omakase nightSushi Pod are serving above Grape to Grain in Prestwich, Greater ManchesterArtur Wacewicz
Artur has teamed up with Grape to Grain founder Tom Sneesby for the Sushi Pod omakase nights – while one is plating up perfect bites of world-class fish, the other is topping up your glass with perfectly-paired wines from downstairs.
And while the experience truly is world-class, it’s not remotely stuffy or formal.
Can’t use chopsticks? Don’t even worry about it – Artur will make you up his special ‘baby chopsticks’, wrapping a napkin around one end so they basically turn into a giant pair of tweezers.
Never eaten uni before (it’s literally the gonads of a sea urchin…)? Again, Artur will talk you through every ingredient, even happily whipping out his phone and flicking through his pictures to show you exactly what part of the animal you’re eating.
This is a man who has worked alongside the legendary Terry Huang, of former Umezushi fame, which was considered to be one of the best sushi restaurants not just in Manchester but in all of Europe.
Uni (sea urchin) tamakiSalmon nigiriMackerel nigiriThe day’s catchA small sample of the 20-course menu
Artur also works with Out of the Blue fishmongers in Chorlton, rising before the crack of dawn to make sure he has the freshest, best-quality seafood ingredients possible.
And because of this ‘what-have-you-got-today’ approach, the omakase menu from Sushi Pod changes all the time.
For our visit, we had (to name but a few) sweet scallops, bluefin tuna, mackerel, eel, different cuts of salmon, caviar, prawn, and so much more.
The first dishes are presented as sashimi, with Artur simply slicing off pieces of fish and placing them in front of you beside a wedge of lime and a scoop of wasabi so that you can tweak each bite to your own tastes.
Then comes the nigiri portion, where expertly-prepared sushi rice spiked with vinegar is rolled up, dotted with wasabi or a soy sauce reduction or lime zest, then topped with different seafood ingredients.
ScallopsThe omakase wine flight menu
And finally comes the tamaki section, when Artur literally hands each course over to you neatly tucked into sheets of nori – no plate.
To go alongside this wonderful sushi journey, there are a few different menus of wine or sake pairings, usually kicking off with a champagne before touring some of the world’s finest white wines.
And again, Tom is on hand to explain exactly what is in your glass and why it’s the perfect match, with no stuffy wine lingo chucked in.
At £90 per person, it’s a darn sight more accessible than a lot of other Omakase menus in town, but with no compromise on quality.
You can book in for Sushi Pod’s Omakaze Night at Grape to Grain here – but be quick, this one’ll book up fast.
And if you DO miss out, you can always order yourself a grab-and-go sushi selection to collect from either Grape to Grain in Prestwich or Out of the Blue in Chorlton.
Daisy Jackson -
12th May 2024 
