Manchester’s Chinatown is the second-largest in the UK and the third-biggest in Europe.
First established over 100 years ago by Chinese immigrants drawn to seek their fortunes within the booming industrial heartlands of Cottonopolis, it might be little more than a mile in width – but it’s still packed with great restaurants, cultural artefacts and some surprising, hidden histories.
Many say the area’s beginnings are rooted in the restaurant business, still Chinatown was not really recognised until the 1970s – despite the arrival of its first restaurant in the forties and the official opening of a Chinese consulate in the 30s.
It was also once ‘ground zero’ for some secret intelligence operations.
Containing a secret doorway to the Guardian Telephone Exchange on George Street, to this day underneath its many cafes, restaurants, karaoke bars and bakeries lies a fortified nuclear bunker stretching out for 30m, attached in turn to more than four miles of underground tunnels that stretch all the way up to Ardwick.
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Image: The Manc Group
The bunker’s existence was denied by officials until 1967 – ten years after it was built – and the tunnels still exist today, albeit unoccupied. Sadly, they are not open to the public.
Still, there’s plenty more to see. As you wander the streets, look up and you’ll stumble across innumerable plaques and listed buildings.
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The most famous, of course, is the ornate Paifang archway – an official gift from Beijing and the only one of its kind in Europe.
Covered in gold leaf, lacquer and traditional symbols of luck and prosperity, following a lengthy construction it was officially opened in 1987 and remains a massive tourist attraction today.
Beyond that, there are plenty of shops, supermarkets, late-night karaoke spots and great eateries to discover. Keep reading to get to grips with exactly where you need to go when in Chinatown.
Retail in Chinatown is dominated by Asian supermarkets like Hang Won Hong, Wing Fat and Woo Sang – each with their own individual quirks.
The smallest, Wing Fat, is a favourite with locals – stocking the likes of vacuum packed Chinese sausages alongside fresh, whole fish, shellfish, and bulging polystyrene packets of pork belly in its fridges. You’ll also find traditional Chinese medicine here and a fresh grocery section out front.
Hang Won Hong, a personal favourite, does it all – with further subsections for other east Asian products from the likes of Korea and Japan.
With fresh veg on your right as you come down the stairs, there’s a fridge area with fresh meat, fish, herbs, salted eggs and kimchi; a snacking section, small beer and large soft drinks selection, innumerable rice and noodles, and a full area dedicated to cooking equipment next to the freezers.
As for Woo Sang, here you’ll find fortune cookies for 99p and the brilliant Hunan restaurant upstairs – the only one of its kind in the north west, according to its owner (more on that later).
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Cookware, tea sets, gifts and more
Just off the main square find the T.La Art & Craft Gallery, a gift shop that’s been trading since 1986. Here you’ll find Chinese art materials, new year decorations (this year’s celebration falls on Saturday 10 February), tea sets, bowls, wind charms, incense sticks and more.
Food has always been at the heart of Manchester’s Chinatown. The area is famous for its affordable cafes, bakeries, and award-winning restaurants, where chefs often add a northern twist to traditional Chinese cooking styles.
Manchester’s first Chinese restaurant, Ping Hong, opened here in 1948, and back then Anglo-Chinese cuisine was very much the order of the day.
Over 60 years later, chefs are still serving up a mix of dishes – ranging from the traditional to the more modern, with some putting a British twist on traditional recipes and cooking methods.
The scene here, once dominated by Cantonese cooking, is now more varied with dishes from provinces like Beijing, Shanghai, Hunan and Szechuan growing in popularity.
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Packed in between Portland and Princess streets, today there are loads of different Chinese eateries to discover – but don’t be surprised to find restaurants serving up all manner of cuisines.
A haven of cultural integration, Chinese and Japanese, Nepalese, Thai and Vietnamese restaurants all jostle for attention, with more piled high above street level.
With over 100 different places to choose from, hungry visitors are spoilt for choice.
Dim Sum, roast meats and hot pot
Mei Dim in Chinatown, Manchester. Credit: The Manc GroupMei Dim in Chinatown, Manchester. Credit: The Manc Group
For seriously good dim sum, a staple at any good Chinese restaurant, try Mei Dim – a nondescript-looking basement canteen with massive laminated, pictorial menus. Ignore the grumpy naysayers online, the fact that the customer base here is 99% Chinese speaks volumes as to the true quality of the food.
Little Yang Sing is worth a visit too and boasts a great lunchtime set menu option, as is Happy Seasons – renowned locally for its roast meats, which range from fatty cuts of pork belly to rich, lacquered whole ducks. Go early, though, as these start selling out from as early as 12pm – they’re that popular.
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Roasted duck in plum sauce, freshly prepped and cooked from 7am then served the following day / Image: Happy Seasons
King Do spare ribs, prepped and made on the day / Image: Happy Seasons
If it’s hot pot you’re looking for, add XiongQi Hot Pot to your list. A relatively new addition to the famous Faulkner street, hot broth steams at the centre of your table – ready for you to cook whatever you like in it.
Options for veggies and vegans are numerous, as are traditional choices like tripe, ox tongue, mutton and prawn mash with bamboo fungus.
Deep-fried pork slices, cinnamon rice rolls, premium beef and a spicy hotpot / Image: Xiong Qi
Bubble tea, bakeries and dessert parlours
This part of town is also known for its great bakeries, cheap cafes and dessert parlours.
For bubble tea, the Taiwanese drink that’s taken Manchester’s Chinatown (and the world) by storm, head to WooTea on George Street where they make their own boba – aka tapioca pearls. This also stars in the desserts, which include indulgent cream-loaded lava cakes.
There’s also Cha-Time, Happy Lemon, or Ohayo Tea – the latter a dog-friendly, Japanese Shiba Inu themed tea house lauded for its fruit teas, which use real, freshly brewed fruit.
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WooTea’s fluffy lava cakes and bubble teas / Image: The Manc Group Ohayotea’s brown sugar tapioca milk boba tea Image: Ohayotea via Shibainuhoshidaily
Bakery-wise, one of Chinatown’s most famous, Ho’s, is sadly no more. Home to the £1.50 pork bun and a staple in the area for more than fourty years, it closed earlier this year – leaving competitor Wong Wongwith some big shoes to fill.
Small Chinese bakery Wong Wong was first opened on Princess Street in 2003 and sells a range of freshly baked traditional and contemporary Chinese buns, loaves, cakes, pastries and even wedding cakes. Opt for a custard bun here, or try the char siu or bolo buns with butter and a traditional milk tea.
Japanese dessert and tea bar Tsujiri Matcha is also worth a visit. As the name suggests, it specialises in matcha and stocks all sorts of delights, including matcha-flavoured lattes, ice cream basque cheesecakes, roll cakes and chocolate tartes.
For some of the best Japanese food in the city, Yuzu on Charlotte Street’s from-scratch cooking is a must. Expect spot-on execution of classics like gyoza, yakitori, katsu and chicken karaage, alongside fresh, silken sashimi served ‘don’ style atop warm, vinegared sushi rice – not to mention an excellent sake bar.
Faulkner Street’s Vietnamese kitchen Pho Cue, meanwhile, combines traditional cooking methods with a good measure of wild-card modernity. The weekly lobster pho, chargrilled on an in-house barbecue, is legendary – but you’ll also find some surprises, like Vietnamese tacos with a crisp rice pancake, listed alongside its traditional bun (spicy soup noodles) and bahn mi.
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Pho Cue restaurant in Chinatown, Manchester. Credit: The Manc Group
Red Chilli, said to be the first to serve spicy Sichuan cuisine in town, gets a lot of love, as does Hunan restaurant on the first floor above Chinatown’s Woo Sang supermarket. It’s the only one of its kind in the north west, according to its owner, serving traditional Hunan cuisine from the mainland.
Teppanyaki Chinatown also deserves an honourable mention, especially if it’s theatre you’re looking for. Chefs here use an iron griddle to cook your food in front of you, with flames shooting into the air as meat, fish, eggs and rice are expertly manoeuvred under your nose.
Nightlife and hotels
When it comes to nightlife in Chinatown, it’s all about the karaoke bars and casinos. These run into the early hours and vary in style.
For karaoke, choose from Orchid Lounge, Vina or K2 Karaoke, with the latter probably the closest thing you’ll get to a Chinese nightclub outside of Shanghai.
As for casinos, there’s the 24-hour Grosvenor on George street, or Genting and Napoleon’s found just round the corner on Portland street, which remain open until 5 and 6am in the morning respectively.
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Gaming isn’t just restricted to the casinos, though, and many people will gather in backrooms to play games like Mah-jong, poker and Pai Gow.
One of the karaoke rooms at K2. Each booth has its own individual theme and includes bottle serve / Image: K2 Karaoke
Just about edging into Chinatown’s nightlife is Seven Oaks, a traditional English pub behind Han Won Hong supermarket.
Open to all in the day with a ‘husband creche’ service, by night this nondescript drinking hole becomes a secret bar for hospitality staff only – requiring proof of employment by way of a payslip to gain access via the side door.
Hotel-wise, the district’s proximity to Princess and Portland street means you’ve numerous choices. Roomz, Ibis and Novotel offer comfortable budget accommodation, or for a more upmarket stay look at neighbouring hotels Brooklyn, Townhouse, or The Midland.
Culture
When many people think about culture in Chinatown, their minds likely go straight to Chinese New Year – admittedly a great time to visit the area.
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Falling in the middle of February in 2024, red lanterns line the streets, which soon become filled with people who flock here to watch the dragon parade, live performances and fireworks display – as well as to visit the pop-up Chinese market.
The rest of the year, many tourists are drawn here to visit the famous Paifang Chinese archway and pagoda that dominate Chinatown’s central square.
Decorated with dragons and phoenixes, visitors could be forgiven for thinking the ornately carved Paifang had been here for centuries. In fact, it only arrived in 1986.
Specially built in China and then shipped over in three huge containers, it took months to assemble and was originally covered in a traditional Chinese mortar mix using pigs’ blood when it landed here in 1986.
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Covered in gold leaf, lacquer and traditional symbols of luck and prosperity, following a lengthy construction it was officially opened in 1987 and remains a massive tourist attraction today.
Elsewhere, on the cusp of Chinatown, you’ll find the impressive Manchester Art Gallery backed onto George street and, at its heart, the Rain Citytattoo collective – another artistic enclave offering its clients a mixture of classic, contemporary and considered tattooing.
Transport
Chinatown is a short walk from Manchester’s Piccadilly bus station or the tram stop at St Peter’s Square. Further buses can be caught in and out of the city from neighbouring Portland Street and Princess Street.
The closest train station is Oxford Road, just an eight-minute walk away, but Piccadilly station is also close at a distance of just 10 minutes when travelling on foot.
The Manchester bus and coach station on Chorlton street is also within spitting distance.
Featured image – The Manc Group
Feature
The best, biggest and bouijiest hotels to stay at in Manchester city centre
Daisy Jackson
Hotels are opening in Manchester city centre at a rate that’s hard to keep up with, diversifying the overnight offering with every passing minute, and they’re also some of the very best in the UK.
We’ve got plenty of familiar boltholes if you can’t tear yourself away from the familiarity of a Premier Inn purple bedroom, or the reliable comforts of a Hilton, but also plenty of smaller names offering a stylish place to rest your head.
We’ve rounded up a dozen of the very best that Manchester has to offer – expect rooftop pools, riverside terraces, grand architecture and celebrity chefs.
And not all of them come with an eye-watering price tag…
If you want a hotel with loads of atmosphere as well as a grown-up space with a dark, moody interior, then Dakota is absolutely the one for you.
This beautiful hotel opened back in 2019; a huge £30m black box on the outskirts of the Northern Quarter that has seen celebrity guests such as Hugh Jackman, Molly Mae-Hague, Mel B and many more.
Formerly Hotel Brooklyn – we all know Manchester has a habit of drawing comparisons to New York, albeit a smaller, soggier version, – voco Manchester still has all the glamour as was originally intended.
The hotel first opened at the worst possible time, being thrust in and out of lockdowns within weeks of opening, but since then it’s attracted rave reviews and been named among the top 20 ‘hottest new hotels’ by Traveller’s Choice among many glowing reviews.
Even after being over by IHG (InterContinental Hotels Group) in December 2023, the 189-room hotel has taken on a new life, boasting the in-house Runyons Restaurant which still keeps those US connections, as well as an open-plan lobby lounge featuring a big screen for live sport and entertainment.
It may be different from what it was but there’s still plenty of style to be seen here.
Just across the border into Salford is The Lowry Hotel, and a big, sweeping curve of pure class sticking out above the river. It’s got a global reputation and it’s no surprise when its guestbook features some of the biggest celebrities of all time.
Remember when Taylor Swift rented out the entire place, or Jose Mourinho decided to just live there, rather than find an apartment, during his time as Manchester United manager? Not to mention Britney Spears, David Beckham, Rihanna, Take That, Lady Gaga, Kylie Minogue and countless others.
Having undergone a £5m bedroom refurb, The Lowry has one of the smartest and brightest interiors in the north of England, one of the region’s most expensive hotel rooms (a casual £4,500 a night for the presidential suite), as well as a super high-tech spa. We also enjoy just heading there for the Lowry bottomless brunch, to be honest.
The Kimpton Clocktower – previously known as the Palace and Principal Hotel, among multiple other monikers – oozes timeless sophistication, a relic of Victorian grandeur but with a boutique hotel feel to it.
The lobby is one of the most impressive spaces in Greater Manchester, all polished tile and marble beneath a glass-domed ceiling, setting the scene for the rooms themselves (high ceilings, big windows, and plenty of historical details).
Another big plus when it comes to the Kimpton is its in-house bar and restaurant: The Refuge, which is a cut above the average hotel offering and is very much its own entity with a reputation for fabulous late-night and seasonal events, a divine bottomless brunch and plenty of other distinct draws.
The lobby at Kimpton ClocktowerOne of their many stylish roomsCredit: Kimpton/The Manc Group
5. The Midland
If only walls could talk, The Midland Hotel would have some of the best stories on Earth.
The landmark hotel has been part of the fabric of Manchester for more than 100 years, with 312 luxurious rooms, and it’s storied that it’s where Charles Rolls and Henry Royce (of Rolls Royce fame) were introduced.
Then there are the communal spaces, even fancier now after their £14m refurbishment, including restaurants Adam Reid at The French and Mount Street Dining Room, and the incredible circular champagne bar in the middle of the lobby.
It’s also the place to come for a traditional afternoon tea and has a truly cracking spa. This place doesn’t need any kind of sale pitch: it’s unquestionably one of the best hotels in Manchester – if not the best.
The curb appeal of Whitworth Locke is something else, from its decadent bar housed in a Parisian-style conservatory and fine culinary offerings (Peru Perdu and a Foundation Coffee House are both in here), to its incredible location right on the edge of the Gay Village.
Each of the rooms is a self-contained haven, from studio apartments all the way up to two-bedroom duplex suites, decorated in a Pinterest-worthy palette of greens and pinks (a muted sample of the terracotta bricks outside).
There’s a free workspace area that spills into a truly stunning conservatory bar, as well as a packed calendar of events too, so whether you’re an out-of-town guest or a local Manc looking to fill a few hours, you’ll be kept busy enough.
Safe to say we’re big fans of this much-loved Manchester hotel.
7. King Street Townhouse
You have, almost without a doubt, seen photos of the King Street Townhouse before – this is the hotel that introduced the infinity pool to the city centre, with views of the Town Hall (well, currently of scaffolding).
The hotel has its own cinema room, a rooftop terrace bar, a new gym, and incredible afternoon teas.
The smart rooms range in size from ‘snug’ to ‘cosy’ to ‘comfy’ to suites, with suites priced at around £430 a night.
From afternoon tea and lunch deals to spa offers, big group events, private screening and so much more, King St Townhouse isn’t just one of the best hotels in Manchester, it’s also one of the most well-rounded in terms of its overall hospitality.
One of the newest hotels to open in Manchester (and they are popping up like daisies) is The Alan, which has stripped the old Princess Street Hotel back to expose and celebrate its original features.
There are 137 bedrooms, each with high ceilings and warm textures, an open-plan kitchen, a restaurant and bar, as well as event spaces.
The devil is in the detail here and the design has been carefully thought-out. The floor is made from a collage of discarded marble, and the dried flowers illuminated beneath the bar were actually foraged by the hotel’s owners at the time they secured plans for The Alan… while they were broken down on the side of the motorway.
It’s gone on to become comfortably one of the best luxury hotels in Manchester since it opened in 2022.
9. Stock Exchange Hotel
Famous names absolutely litter Stock Exchange Hotel, which is easily one of the grandest spaces in all of Greater Manchester.
Not only does it come from Gary Neville’s rapidly-booking hospitality empire, but it’s also backed by world-famous hotelier Winston Zahra, not to mention high-profile chefs and hospitality figures like Tom Kerridge and The Schofield Brothers having run the kitchen.
You could be looking at as much as £1500 for a night in the suites, but the rooms start at a much lower rate – and then there’s ‘The House’, an enormous fully serviced, ultra-exclusive penthouse apartment with its own roof terrace.
The newest addition to Manchester’s ever-growing hotel and resort sector, The Reach has landed just a short walk from Piccadilly Station and is only a few minutes away from the bustling Northern Quarter, meaning that like Dakota, it’s picked a prime logistical and cultural location.
But enough about topographical perks, this place is simply sublime, serving exquisite food and drink from its Lock 84 restaurant overlooking the Rochdale Canal, with rooms that are just as spacious as they are luxurious.
Perfect for business or pleasure, The Reach is already becoming a popular choice for those visiting Manchester and has comfortably landed itself on the list of the very best hotels we have to offer here in the city centre.
Circa Waves on their new album, unreal tour lineup, a big health scare and ‘the best band’ around right now
Danny Jones
With Circa Waves announcing a new album and a brand new UK tour early next year, we were very kindly given the privilege to chat with one of the most consistent indie bands of the past decade.
Sitting down with lead singer and rhythm guitarist Kieran Shudall, we were buzzing with questions about their upcoming record, what we’re dubbing as one of the best indie tour lineups in years, what they’re making of the UK music scene right now and, of course, why the North West is the best.
For anyone unaware, it’s been a pretty intense period for the Liverpool lads and their frontman, especially, after a health scare early last year, so we’re more grateful than ever that they’re back and looking in true fighting form ahead of their shows come February 2025.
You can read our full interview with Circa Waves down below.
Audio North interviews Kieran from Circa Waves
Circa Waves live in Kobetamendi, Bilbao at BBK Live 2017.Kieran gave us a really great, in-depth chat.Credit: Dena Flows/The Manc Group
Right off the bat, the sixth studio album is coming out, Death & Love Pt. 1. It’s a big, bold title – what can you tell us about it without giving too much away?
Well, ‘Death and Love’ was basically the first song I ever wrote for Circa. It was back in 2012 or something, but it never got released and it was just a title that was always lying around.
We were trying to think of a title for this record and with what I went through – like a big sort of health scare and then came out the other side and feeling very grateful for life – that seemed like a really appropriate title and I feel like it grabs your attention a little bit.
Feel free to move on if it’s too personal but if you would you mind telling us about the health scare?
We had to cancel a bunch of tours; I got told you have to sign this form that says you have a 100% chance of dying on the operating table, so that’s not cool. It was just mad and I kind of came through the other side feeling super grateful and happy to be alive and in a band, you know
I feel more fortunate now that I’ve got through it all, so a lot of the record is about getting through that and the fears that came along with it. It gave me some good material haha.
For sure, that trauma always serves great art at least. There’s obviously a part one in there too, so is the second done and was this a double album experience in the recording process?
I’m still doing it – finishing it right now actually. We kind of just had too many songs and thought let’s just split it into two. I guess back in the day it’d be like a double album but yeah, the first one is nine songs and this one I’m still deciding. Maybe 10?
There’s just had a lot of ideas and we thought, well, why not? In this day and age, it’s so easy to kind of put music out and people consume music so fast that it felt like we just may as well.
Absolutely. So where do you think you’ve pushed things sonically this time – is it more of an evolution or a continuation?
I feel like we’ve landed on our feet in what we’re about now, certainly what I think Circa Waves should sound like, so it’s kind of similar to the early records, I guess.
A lot more guitars, sort of raw, scrappy drums, and they feel like festival songs to me but obviously the subject matter is like 10 years on from the first record, so your life experience makes the lyrics different, but I hope that it sort of feels like a refinement of sorts.
And have you guys got a favourite track that you’re particularly excited for people to hear or a personal favourite?
The thing about band members is everyone just likes it when their instrument’s the loudest. I don’t know, there’s a track called ‘Hold It Steady’ which is quite different to anything we’ve done before; I’m excited for that one to be heard but I think they’re all bangers.
We’ll absolutely take that haha. For the tour, you’ve got an unreal lineup of support acts with Peace and our fellow Mancs, Corella – we’ve seen both of them this year and they were great – how did you go around picking your warm-ups?
Peace was a funny one, I sort of have liked them for a long time and I went to the old NME Tour that they were on in probably 2011 or something but I remember watching them being like, ‘Oh wow and man I’d love to do the NME Tour.
Circa Waves didn’t exist at the time and then a few years later we did it ourselves, so they were sort of a big inspiration for me to play indie music, so it was cool to have them on. And then Corella are just ones that have been cropping up every two minutes on my Instagram feed and they’re just like a really good indie band right now.
Peace at Kendal Calling 2024Corella had a pretty iconic moment on the main stage too…
So it all felt like a good fit and we kind of want to just make the night feel like a big festival of music that people will love that type of music really. It’s just a proper guitary indie night, you know?
Lovely, can’t complain about that. In terms of venues, you’ve got some great Northern institutions on there: The Academy in Leeds, Victoria Warehouse here in Manchester and your massive hometown show. How much do you love those dates as North West locals?
Yeah, I love it, man. I mean, there’s nothing better than playing up North and I know that sounds like something that people say to just please people from there but it really is the best.
Liverpool, obviously, for me is such a big one and my family all go to those ones, so it’s cool for that reason but Manchester’s always been an amazing crowd. I don’t know what it is about Manchester – Manchester, Leeds, Glasgow and Liverpool are always just amazing.
Bang on, and as for that hometown gig, how special is that Olympia show gonna be and do you have any special treatment up your sleeve?
You know what? I haven’t thought about it. There’s always the temptation of asking someone to get up with you. [Yeah, maybe get Jamie Webster on the go?] Yeah, I’ve been writing with Jamie and Miles [Kane] quite a bit but I don’t know. We’ll keep it all secret anyway.
Yeah let’s not spoil anything. Another one we’re always curious of is how much you consider that famous Manc vs Scouse rivalry in music. Do you buy into it at all?
I don’t know, I think in my life when you have like really p***ed up conversations with someone who’s more into the Manc scene than the Liverpool scene I just think we’ve got The Beatles, so we always win.
I do think, you know, you’ve got your Joy Divisions and your Smiths and your Oasis and all this – they’re amazing bands, but we’ve got The Beatles. So it’s just you can’t like. [Like the ultimate Top Trumps card] Yeah, in Pokemon, it’d be shiny Charizard.
Fair enough. What about other Northern acts you’re particularly excited by at the minute?
I mean, there’s so many but it’s too hard but the band I think are the best at the moment is Wunderhorse. I met Jacob [Slater] a while ago when he was doing Dead Pretties and I was like obsessed with his writing and he sent me a bunch of acoustic stuff and I was just like man, “You are f***ing annoyingly talented.”
Then when Wunderhorse came out and I was just blown away. It’s amazing to watch it just become this big thing now. It’s cool to see people on TikTok sharing clips of ‘Teal’ and just seeing kids getting into proper music. So yeah, love them, man – I’m so excited to see where they end up.
He’s not wrong, by the way. Their Manchester Academy gig in October was one the best of our lives and not to sound like needy cool kids but we’ve very much backed them from day one.
Georgina Pellant -
8th February 2024 
