The incredible 30-year transformation of Manchester captured on camera
Len Grant has amassed the largest and most significant collection of images of Manchester’s amazing transformation. For the first time ever, we have a bigger picture of the regeneration story.
1997: The Shambles is demolished around the Old Wellington and Sinclairs pubs before they are dismantled and moved.
Most adults dread turning 30-years-old. But Len Grant will always look back on entering his third decade rather fondly.
It was at this age he decided to quit his uninspiring sales job and swap it for something he loved: Photography.
It was a bold move, especially given how there was very little to shoot.
Manchester in 1990 was a dry patch for a budding photographer. Snappers on the Hacienda beat had their hands full, but other lensmen were hard pushed to find picturesque scenes in the city worthy of publication.
New Islington and Ancoats May 2005
Springtime of that year saw photographers flock to capture prisoners rebelling on the roof during The Strangeways Riots, but the day-to-day surroundings offered little else in terms of inspiration.
Manchester looked tired; and not even the kindest camera could cheer up its forgotten inner-city neighbourhoods.
Castlefield was barren. Ancoats was a ghost town. New Islington was little more than a cluster of houses known as the Cardroom Estate. Hulme even had stray dogs scampering through its dilapidated Crescents tower block.
2002: The Cardroom Estate before its demolition to make way for New Islington.1994: The indoor arena next to Victoria Station takes shape.
Change was coming, citizens were assured. But it would be some time before Manchester was remoulded.
Until then, Len decided he would photograph the people planning these changes. Architects, entrepreneurs, town hall officers, developers, landowners, city councillors. Everyone and anyone set to play a role in Manchester’s forthcoming transformation.
His resulting exhibition, City Shapers, was displayed at the Arndale. It was his first big break. But it also created crucial contacts – meaning Len was given a front row seat whenever a new curtain was raised anywhere in the city. And he’d always take his camera with him.
Three decades on, Len has amassed the largest and most significant collection of images of Manchester’s amazing transformation. No other anthology contains as many photos across such a scope. For the first time ever, we have a bigger picture of the regeneration story.
The Fallowfield photographer is now publishing an upcoming book – in which he plans to showcase these incredible photographs to the world.
He’s got a big target to hit, but the demand is clearly there. £6,000 has already flooded in since the kickstarter was launched – and Len’s still campaigning fiercely to ensure the pictures go to print.
“I’ve been very lucky at being in the right place at the right time,” the humble photographer tells The Manc.
“There was very little in Manchester before the nineties.
“If people came to visit me around that time, I’d take them to Liverpool for a day out. There were things to do there.
“But in the early 90s, things were starting to happen. Manchester was starting to look to find a way out of its post-industrial past.”
1994: The Nynex Arena under construction.1998: The interior of Maxwell house was ripped out leaving just the facade, behind which The Printworks was built.
After getting up close and personal with many of the heavy hitters calling the shots on Manchester’s future, Len saw the blueprints unravelling right before his lens – and he was there to capture the changes when they came.
According to Len, it was the hard-headed approach of Manchester City Council that set off the regeneration domino effect.
“Manchester City Council were quite pragmatic about who they worked with,” he explains.
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“For instance, in the eighties in Liverpool, the council were militant and against the Tory government.
“But in Manchester, it was much more pragmatic. There was an organisation called the Central Manchester Development Corporation which was a government quango, and MCC worked with them to do the best for the city rather than to score political points – so that was quite significant.
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At the turn of the decade, Manchester was packed out with car parks and brownfield sites – which meant there was ample space for planning opportunities.
“Slowly but surely, there were pots of money to be able to do things,” Len explains.
“The CMDC put money into building Bridgewater Hall and the surrounding area of Castlefield – which was very run down back then; nobody went there.”
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Bridgewater Hall under construction, 19941997: The Shambles is demolished around the Old Wellington and Sinclairs pubs before they are dismantled and moved.1998: The Quays Theatre under construction at The Lowry. No Imperial War Museum North or MediaCity yet.1998: Stell framework of The Printworks following the demolition of Maxwell House.
Len has cited the construction of the Bridgewater Hall in 1995 as being one of the most pivotal moments in the regeneration of the city.
Not only was it Manchester’s first civic building since the 1930s, it was also a sign that things could – and were – starting to happen.
“I had a conversation with the council leader at the time, Graham Stringer, and he told me there were only two surviving photos of the town hall being built,” Len remembers.
“He was quite aware that Manchester was on the cusp of new change and wanted it to be documented sufficiently.”
Len was the man to photograph this transformation in all its glory, seizing the opportunity to get involved whenever new finance came flooding in for local projects.
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Change from that point on was steady but scattered – with some development even being driven by disaster.
Len recalls that Hulme won a much-needed pot of City Challenge money to redevelop the area after the inner city riots of the eighties, and finance was also made available for the city centre after the 1996 IRA bomb.
“Crucially, the city council and the private sector actually took this opportunity to work closely together – something Manchester is very good at – to bring about key renovation of the city centre at a difficult time,” he explains.
“Later, towards the turn of the millennium, there was money available from the National Lottery too, through the Millennium Commission.
“Projects like The Lowry in Salford Quays were only made possible by the dogged determination of people at Salford City Council to make that money come in.”
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2002: New Islington. Residents of the old Cardoom estate discuss plans for what will become New Islington.2004: The demolition of Maine Road football ground.
From 2000 onwards, East Manchester enjoyed tremendous change. It was sorely needed after being neglected for so long, despite the area’s influential history.
An industrial powerhouse during the 18th century, Ancoats was also the place that gave birth to Manchester’s first social housing development – with the construction of Victoria Square in 1894-97.
But when the block was completed, the rents were too expensive for the people it was originally intended for, and the area plunged into economic decline during the 1930s.
Following the war, East Manchester was essentially abandoned by everyone but its residents.
“Ancoats, Beswick, Clayton, Openshaw – you’d have never needed to go into those areas in the early nineties,” says Len.
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“There was nothing there for you to go and see. It wasn’t on the way to anywhere, either.
“When I first started photographing in Ancoats in 2002/03, the streets were dead and if you ever came across anybody you’d kind of worry you’d have your camera taken off you.
“Not many people crossed Great Ancoats Street into Ancoats from the Northern Quarter in those days.
“I’ve really enjoyed how Ancoats has changed. It’s just phenomenal looking at it now. It’s only when you see photos with the mills in them that you’re able to determine it’s the same place.”
2006: St Peters Church before Cutting Room Square is built and before The Smiths Arms is demolished.2006: The New islington canal arm and the creation of Cotton Fields.2009: Royals Mills, Ancoats during its refurbishment
Whilst sketching in Cutting Room Square one afternoon, Len got talking with a man who’d lived in the area for many years.
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He expected the resident to be sentimental for the past – as so many of us often are – but he was besotted with Ancoats 2.0. Nostalgia was no competitor for the shiny new space – which he recognised had given the area a whole new lease of life.
Len started his career by photographing people – and he has maintained that focus to this day. His interest in human subjects, and how their lives have been affected by the ever-changing skyline, has remained a key part of his work.
“I think those stories can be lost sometimes,” Len tells us.
“Which is what my book will help to cover.”
He has seen both the good and bad sides of regeneration, and whilst most of the changes have been positive, Len is hoping that further development does not come at the cost of loosened community connections.
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“We might be continuing to build, but how much effort are we putting into communities?” he asks.
“I hope that’s being considered. After all, it’s the people who make Manchester so great.
“During adversity, the strength of Manchester comes to the surface. We see that again and again. It’s even happening right now – with people in inner-city communities helping one another during coronavirus and supporting the most vulnerable.
“Many people who come to Manchester call themselves ‘adopted Mancunians’. I love how people give themselves that tag.
“I wonder how many other places around the country you’d call yourself adopted?”
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You can learn more about Len’s incredible Regeneration Manchester project online.
It will be money well spent, indeed. Stories about Manchester don’t come much better than this.
Feature
Manchester’s first banana pudding bar has opened in the city centre
Clementine Hall
Make sure to save room for pudding…because one of the city’s most-talked about dessert brands has found a new home.
Buttercup launched last summer, creating little pots of the hit US dessert made famous by the iconic Magnolia Bakery.
Each dessert features vanilla custard whipped with cream, soft sponge, and fresh banana, which you can then customise with rotating flavours and toppings.
And after a brief disappearance from the Manchester foodie scene, Buttercup is back with a bang with their beautiful new home on Deansgate.
Images: The Manc Group
And when we say beautiful, we really mean it.
Glossy burgundy tiles, butter yellow walls and sleek chrome furniture make up the space beneath the huge arched window, and there’s even a few seats for you to enjoy your pud and watch the world go by.
Open daily from 10am til 10pm, the menu includes three puddings on rotation ready to scoop.
Images: The Manc Group
Choose from the classic banana, indulgent tiramisu and an ever-changing seasonal special, alongside a wall of toppings for you to customise your own pud.
Each recipe has been perfected in-house and the proof really is in the banana pudding…because it tastes just as good as it looks.
Since launching, Buttercup has served around 50,000 puddings, hosted sell-out pop-ups across the city, collaborated with some huge brands, and built a loyal following around its signature build-your-own pudding bar.
Image: The Manc Group
With this new standalone space, you’ll of course be able to indulge in its signature banana pudding, as well as breakfast yoghurt bowls, coffee and matcha.
Officially opening tomorrow Saturday 26 September, the first 50 customers will get a free topping and sauce with the purchase of any pudding, plus a free lip gloss from Manchester-born beauty brand REFY.
10 of the best new restaurants, bars and cafes to open in Greater Manchester recently
Clementine Hall
Manchester has welcomed a whole host of new places to eat and drink over the past couple of months – and there’s a LOT to be excited about.
It’s fair to say we all love our food, and here at The Manc, we certainly love writing about it.
So, allow us to indulge as we take you through some of our favourite new openings to have landed across Greater Manchester recently.
From a Latin BBQ restaurant making a splash in the Northern Quarter to a humble Vietnamese sandwich shop turning heads over in Didsbury, there’s been plenty to get excited about.
But consider this your warning: reading on may cause extreme hunger…
Kickback Coffee
11 Portland Street, M1 3HU
Images: The Manc Group
Kickback Coffee is the latest trader to open on bustling Portland Street, serving up flat whites, long blacks and iced drinks aplenty.
With their roastery hub based in Cheshire, this independent business puts their love of coffee at the forefront. If you’re looking for a really quality coffee, then this is your next stop.
Sandy’s Smoke Shed
Arch 121 Woollam Pl, Manchester M3 4JJ
Images: The Manc Group
Sandy’s Smokeshed has just opened in Castlefield, where Sam – and his smoker, Angela – are serving up serious Texas-style BBQ, with queues already stretching out the door.
The idea is simple: take great cuts of meat, cover them generously in seasoning, put them in the smoker and give them all the time they need.
Think eight-hour smoked beef chuck, brisket, short ribs, chicken and stellar sides.
Say hello to Sister Moon, a beautiful new restaurant bringing a taste of Southeast Asia to the city centre and the latest addition to Manchester’s Treehouse Hotel.
Here, all the dishes are cooked on open fire, including dishes like the fried pork skewers with banana ketchup and the grilled prawns with crispy chilli and garlic. Elsewhere on the menu you’ll find stars like the crispy pork belly and pomelo salad as well as the slow cooked lamb jungle curry (warning, this one’s got a kick).
Sister Moon is the new project from acclaimed chef Sam Grainger who you’ll know from Madre, and it’s just as good as you’d expect.
If you need a break from all that indulgent food and drink, then this new spot on Deansgate should be at the top of your list.
Clean Greens is bringing health in the form of fresh salads, cold-pressed juices, matchas, coffee, and more. Their menu focuses on using clean ingredients without all the faff, and all served in a gorgeous setting – what more could you want?
Pranzo Italian
55 King St, Manchester M2 4LQ
Images: The Manc Group
Sometimes only a steaming hot bowl of homemade pasta will do, and you’ll find it at the new Pranzo Italian on King Street.
Here they’re using 70-year-old Calabrian recipes passed down from owner Marco’s Nonna, so it’s about as authentic as it gets. The pasta comes al dente, and they’re not scrimping on the portions or the flavour.
Dahlia Stereo has landed in the Northern Quarter, bringing Latin-inspired open-fire cooking, tequila and mezcal-led drinks, and a seriously impressive sound system under one roof.
Expect everything from achiote chicken and 400g churrasco steak to fresh tortillas, smoky sides, and house-made cocktails, with DJs keeping the vibe going late into the night.
If you love great food, good music, and a proper Manchester night out, this one looks well worth checking out.
This unassuming spot has been turning heads in Didsbury for its authentic, stacked Banh Mi sandwiches.
Everything is made fresh to order, with fillings like crispy pork belly, lemongrass crispy chicken, roast duck, ham, grilled beef, and tofu, plus traditional Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk.
Casa Papi
9 Woodford Road, Bramhall, Stockport SK7 1JN
Images: The Manc Group
There’s a new taqueria spot in Stockport that prides itself on using only the best of the best ingredients imported all the way from Mexico.
Casa Papi is serving up tacos, rice bowls and plenty with your choice of slow-cooked birria beef, roasted chicken or sweet potato for the veggies. They’ve even got traditional blue-corn taco shells as an option too which are 100% gluten free and just as tasty as their flour-based cousins.
Arcadian
1C School Lane, Didsbury, M20 6RD
Images: The Manc Group
Beloved neighbourhood restaurant Hispi may have closed its doors, but its shoes have been filled pretty quickly with the delightful Arcadian stepping into its place.
A new-to-Manchester open-fire restaurant, with dishes cooked over wood, charcoal and open flame. The new concept sees the chefs themselves serving you your dinner, with plates like coal-seared beef tartare, grilled monkfish, and a Basque cheesecake with black cherries.
Bar Caput
71 Great Underbank, Stockport SK1 1PE
Images: The Manc Group
Stockport has bid farewell to its only Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant, with the team behind the acclaimed Cantaloupe pivoting to a totally new concept – and it’s a good’un.
Bar Caput has stepped into the unit, where it’s all about bringing the Roman culture of drinking and aperitivi to Great Underbank. That means crisp-based Roman-style pizzas, plus fritti, small plates, great wine, and bright cocktails.