Tucked away just off King street, Six By Nico seems to be just as busy as it was when it first opened in Manchester two years ago.
Hardly short on hype, the restaurant – known for its themed tasting menus that change every six weeks – is more than half full when we nip in at 4pm on a Monday night, not exactly peak time for dining out in the city.
Filled with young couples on dates, girlfriends catching up, and a handful of older couples on double dates (we wonder if perhaps they’ve lost patience with their own partner), Six By Nico has clearly got no trouble drawing in a crowd.
One key reason, surely, has to be that it is cheap here. Six-courses-for-£32 cheap.
Tasting menus, typically, do not come cheap – packing a dish with flavour, imagination, and quality ingredients generally tends to cost a bit of money. But chef Nico Simeone seems to have worked out a way around it.
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The menu we’re here to try is called ‘Thai Fusion’ and offers – as you might expect – a selection of Thai-inspired fusion dishes, served with paired wines for the ultimate degustation experience.
We begin with an aperitif – a Mai Tai cocktail, minus its characteristic almond syrup. Technically Polynesian in origin, it’s given a fusion ‘twist’ with added lemongrass and mango.
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Things kick off properly with a taster of beef massaman. Already a fusion of Thai and Indian-style curries in its own right, it’s made extra ‘fusiony’ here with the help of every chef’s favourite trick: culinary deconstruction.
Melt in the mouth aged beef tartare comes together with massaman emulsion, fermented chilli and crispy potato matchsticks to offer a tiny but delicious morsel that sets the tone for things to come (spoiler, I end up making myself a second dinner when I get home).
Next up is a twist on the spicy and sour Thai soup Tom Yum served with pork cheek that’s falling apart in a good way, and a glass of Hungarian red that tastes more like white wine in a red jacket.
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It’s not the best Tom Yum I’ve ever had, coming a bit low on the spice factor, but the pork is cooked beautifully.
The pumpkin spring roll ends up being a stand-out favourite – proving big on flavour, albeit small on the plate.
The pumpkin spring roll ends up being a stand-out favourite – proving big on flavour, albeit small on the plate.
The whole thing’s then finished off with a palm sugar delice – combining milk sponge cake with macadamia nuts, lychee and calamansi gel, yoghurt and mango sorbet.
It’s all accompanied by more wine, which ultimately piles up on the side of our table as I discover drinking one glass takes much longer than finishing its accompanying plate.
Selfless as always, my dining partner offers to help me out with some whilst our wonderfully-attentive server quietly whisks the rest away. She’s a good egg.
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When Six By Nico first opened, there was some well-founded speculation as to how well a restaurant offering taster menus exclusively would fare. In a tricky part of town, where many restaurants (including Jamie Oliver’s Jamie’s Italian group) have failed before it, it seemed like a bit of a gamble.
Given that you can go around the corner to Rudy’s and stuff yourself silly for under a tenner, I have to wonder – is this good value for money? The answer, I think, is yes – provided you’re going for the experience or perhaps for a special occasion.
Just don’t be surprised if you end up leaving a little bit hungry.
Food & Drink
New pasta kitchen Soots Pasta opens at Altrincham Market
Daisy Jackson
A little piece of pasta paradise has landed at Altrincham Market and it’s got a secret you won’t believe.
Soots Pasta has taken on a spot in the covered market, where owners and co-founders Ellie Proudfoot and Ruth Duarte are hand-making fresh pasta dishes.
They’ve named this fantastic little kitchen after their cocker spaniel, Soots.
Signature dishes here include a satisfying swirl of thick ravioli, stuffed with ricotta and served on a bed of pumpkin puree and sage butter.
There’s also a vibrant green pesto tagliatelle, laced with basil, lemon and pistachio.
As for small plates, there’s freshly-made focaccia with three different butters, plus crunchy tomato arancini.
Soots Pasta is the first solo venture for Ellie, who used to work as a private chef as well as at restaurants around the region.
Soots Pasta in Altrincham Market. Credit: The Manc GroupSoots Pasta in Altrincham Market. Credit: The Manc Group
She’s taken her background – which includes culinary school in France – to create this modern European menu that takes inspiration from Italy.
What’s not immediately obvious, on reading the menu or eating it, is that everything on the Soots Pasta menu is entirely vegan – and they have gluten-free pasta available on request.
The pair hope that Altrincham Market will be a launchpad to them eventually opening their first restaurant, as it’s done for so many businesses that came before it.
Soots Pasta is on Pott Street in the covered market, and is open Tuesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from 14 January.
Colourful Simpsons-themed cafes pop up inside Manchester’s Primark stores
Emily Sergeant
Cafes inside Primark stores across the UK are being transformed into The Simpsons-themed foodie hubs for a limited time only.
You may remember that Grinch-themed cafes popped up inside Primark on Market Street in Manchester city centre, as well as Primark in Trafford Palazzo during December, which were a hit with fans of the furry green character – with everything from green waffles and themed milkshakes, to festive toasties, hot drinks, and more on the menu.
A new life inspired by the legendary animated sitcom, The Simpsons, that is.
Colourful Simpsons-themed cafes have popped up inside Manchester’s Primark stores / Credit: The Manc Group & Supplied
Get ready to step into Springfield, as from now right through until the beginning of May, Primark shoppers can get their D’oh-nut fix and much more, with each cafe kitted out with Simpsons-themed menus and decor.
The special themed menu includes a wide selection of waffles and toasties, and also plenty of drinks and shakes to choose from, including an indulgent Chocolate Marshmallow Hot Chocolate, and a scrumptious Strawberry Doughnut Shake.
Prices start at £4.25 for drinks, and £5.50 for food items.
The menu is filled will themed delights inspired by the beloved animated sitcom / Credit: The Manc Group
“We’re serving up a slice of Springfield with our latest cafe theme, giving fans a taste of The Simpsons right in our stores,” explained Tim Kelly, who is the Director of New Business Development at Primark, as the cafes opened across the UK last week.
“We’re always looking for new ways to create fun and memorable experiences for our customers and our themed cafes have been a big hit, so we can’t wait to see everyone’s reaction in store.”
The Primark Café with The Simpsons is now open in Primark’s Manchester Market Street, and Manchester Trafford stores, as well as in Birmingham, Belfast, Braehead, Edinburgh, and Cardiff until the beginning of May.
Georgina Pellant -
18th November 2021 
