One of the best things about pubs is that they come in all different shapes and sizes – there are fancy gastropubs, sit and drink in silence pubs, historic pubs with fireplaces, modern pubs with plywood and craft beer, and then those pubs that just take you back to your younger years.
One such delightfully traditional pub is The Baum, where cosy nooks meet nostalgic dinners and great beers.
Rochdale town centre gets a bit of a bad rap (the high street is a repeating pattern of charity shop, betting shop, vape/phone repair shop) but it feels like a new dawn could be on the horizon.
Firstly, Rochdale Town Hall’s transformation is almost complete, with the magnificent Grade I-listed building set to reopen to the public in a few short weeks.
There are some brilliant restaurants opening up here too that are worth travelling to the very edges of the tram network for, like Bombay Brew (Indian street food and craft beers) and Vinesteins (melted cheese heaven).
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And then there’s all Rochdale’s history that’s being carefully preserved, like the Toad Lane conservation area in which The Baum pub is located.
Up on this cobbled street, with its green tiled front, its stained glass windows and its old-fashioned ironwork, it looks straight out of a museum.
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Outside The Baum pub in RochdaleInside The Baum pub in RochdaleHow The Baum used to look
Inside, too, it feels unchanged, down to its vintage artwork and its wooden central bar.
On the menu you’ll find plenty of proudly northern nostalgia, like rag puddings, bangers and mash, and pot pies, but a little taste of the 21st century with an occasional katsu curry and a bit of hummus thrown in.
The Baum has also, like basically every food and drink establishment in the entire world, been infiltrated by small plates. There is no escaping small plates.
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The Baum’s house-fried chickenHummus with flatbreadSmall plates at The Baum in Rochdale
Theirs are three for £19 and include garlic and herb mushrooms with such a powerful hit of garlic you can feel it in your lungs, creamy hummus with flatbread, and really quite exceptional house-fried chicken on a generous smear of lemon and thyme aioli.
When the weather is being the most Manchester weather imaginable (sideways rain and a sky the colour of pewter), there’s no better fix than a cheese and onion pie.
The Baum’s comes in a neat cube that collapses into a gooey mess, with thick-cut school dinner chips on the side and, of course, baked beans.
Fish finger sandwichClassic cheese and onion pie
And carrying on with our kid-friendly adult dinner, the humble fish finger sandwich has been kicked into a new gear with flaky battered fish balancing inside a warm ciabatta roll.
We’ve overdosed on carbs too much to even humour a pudding, but if you’ve left room you’ll find sticky toffee puddings, various tarts, and cheesecake.
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With its cosy, old-fashioned interior and its well-executed menu, The Baum is sure to stand the test of time.
Manchester champagne bar launches new £155 menu of ‘exceptional’ single-bite dishes
Daisy Jackson
The UK’s first dedicated champagne boutique, Portfolio, is finally ready to launch its restaurant experience – and it’s like nothing Manchester has seen before.
The luxury champagne bar on Bridge Street has unveiled a new restaurant concept built entirely around ‘the perfect bite’, with diners able to enjoy up to 18 single-mouthful dishes for £155 per person (or 14 dishes for £135pp).
At lunchtimes, Portfolio will offer a 10 course menu for £75pp, with an optional wine pairing.
The intimate nine-table restaurant is the latest venture from acclaimed chef Julian Pizer, formerly of Another Hand and Edinburgh Castle, who says he wanted to focus on the one bite guests remember long after a meal has finished.
Rather than serving traditional tasting menu courses, every dish is designed to be eaten in a single mouthful, paired with some of the world’s finest and rarest champagnes and wines.
Diners are encouraged to tackle each course in one go – no matter how tempting it might be to savour it a little longer.
As co-founder Pizer explains: “I’ve always been drawn to the most memorable part of any meal – that single perfect bite, the one you remember long after the meal.
Beef fat hash, beef tartare, horseradish and Bloody Mary gel, served on top of champagne corks Carrot tart, gooseberry, fresh curds in thin crispy pastryhiso leaf taco with spring shoots, citrus vinaigrette, blackcurrant wood
“This menu is built around that idea: big flavour, perfect balance, all in one mouthful, designed to sit seamlessly alongside great Champagne.”
Highlights include a chicken and oyster tempura skewer topped with sour cream and chives, a carrot tart packed with gooseberries and fresh curds, and a beef-fat hash crowned with beef tartare and Bloody Mary gel, dramatically served on champagne corks.
One standout dish is a decadent lobster roll enriched with pork fat, where crispy brioche provides the perfect contrast to sweet Cornish lobster, cucumber, celery and apple.
Elsewhere, a refreshing shiso leaf taco with spring shoots and citrus vinaigrette offers a palate-cleansing break before richer dishes including Chinese-style pork belly with white kimchi, and a duck course featuring breast, confit meatball and duck neck sausage.
Some of the paired wines with the Portfolio lunch menu in ManchesterInside Portfolio ManchesterSome of the paired wines with the Portfolio lunch menu in Manchester
Dessert arrives in the form of a kiwi marshmallow-style treat with blackberry, mint and a dusting of icing sugar.
The drinks are no afterthought either. Portfolio houses more than 250 champagnes from over 70 producers, and diners can add carefully matched champagne pairings to either the 14-course (£135) or 18-course (£155) menu.
With only 24 covers available at any one time, the experience is intentionally relaxed. There’s just a single sitting each service, meaning guests can linger over their food and fizz for as long as they like.
For those not ready to commit to 18 bites in one sitting, Portfolio’s bar remains open six days a week, offering a more casual snack menu alongside its extensive champagne list.
Pizer describes the concept as his chance to experiment freely and, above all, ‘make food fun again’.
You can now get Deep South-inspired BBQ dishes on Manchester’s Deansgate
Daisy Jackson
There’s a brand-new menu of smokehouse-style BBQ dishes being served up on a sunny terrace on Deansgate.
Motley, the neighbourhood bar and restaurant on the corner of John Dalton Street, has added an authentic smoker to its kitchen.
That means they’ve got a whole load of new dishes, slow-cooked over hickory wood, that are bringing a taste of a Deep South BBQ to Manchester city centre.
The smokehouse-style meats are all seasoned in-house and cooked for hours, for a perfect fall-off-the-bone experience.
It might be an authentic American smokehouse menu, but it’s firmly British too, with most products locally sourced.
You can now get Deep South-inspired BBQ dishes on Deansgate / Credit: The Manc Group
Motley are calling on local suppliers like Althams Butchers (established since 1856) for their meat, plus greengrocers R Noone and Son, and Cheshire Farm for their real dairy ice cream.
Signature dishes on the new menu at Motley include slow smoked brisket, seasoned in Motley’s signature rub before being slow-smoked for more than eight hours.
There’s also a beef short rib with a chimichurri sauce, and a pork belly strip that’s seasoned with sage and onion and finished with a panko breadcrumb crust.
And for the veggies, there’s a vegan smoked veg kebab with courgette, mushrooms, bell pepper, sweet corn and red onion drizzled with homemade BBQ sauce.
Motley has added an authentic smoker to its kitchen / Credit: The Manc Group
Prices across the board start from just £16, served with beef dripping fries, rainbow slaw, pickles and homemade beef gravy.
As for small plates, you can expect short rib bonbons, homemade corn bread, spicy chicken wings, bang bang cauliflower, mac and cheese, and frickles.
House favourites like steak, vegetable hash, salads, and burgers will remain on the Motley menu.
Victor Gonzalez, food and beverage manager at Motley, said: “Our new signature smoked dishes are all crafted and seasoned in-house then slow cooked for hours over hickory wood to create rich and smoky melt-in-your mouth flavours.
“From our slow-smoked brisket to our home-made sides, everything has been carefully crafted to bring an authentic taste of the deep south to Manchester and we can’t wait for guests to try it.”
Motley can be found at 2 John Dalton Street on the corner of Deansgate in the city centre.
Daisy Jackson -
27th January 2024 
