I ate chicken feet and thousand-year-old eggs in Manchester’s Chinatown – and I loved it
The Manc's Food and Drink Editor took a deep dive into Chinese delicacies at Mei Dim, and fell in love with its baskets of chicken feet, thousand year old egg congee and beef tripe.
Chicken feet, tripe, and thousand-year-old eggsmight not be the first things you think to orderwhen visiting a restaurant in Manchester’s Chinatown, but if you’re paying a visit to Mei Dim then you really need to give it a go. If not, you’re seriously missing out.
A non-descript basement canteen tucked underground on Faulkner Street, from the outside its laminated pictoral menus give very little clue as to the delights within. But they’re very much there for the taking, if you’re daring enough to step out of your comfort zone.
Visiting on a chilly Monday lunchtime, this is exactly what I’ve vowed to do – with a little help from a friend who not only speaks fluent Cantonese, but also lived in Hong Kong as a child and has a chef for a dad.
Armed with knowledge, he’s the best dining partner I could ask for: patiently explaining the menu to me and then delighting when I announce, at the end of our meal, that I’ve fallen in love with chicken feet. ‘At last’, he says, he’s found a white person who will eat ‘the weird stuff’ with him. It’s the start of a beautiful new chapter for us.
After some back and forth, followed by some wrangling with the staff in Cantonese, he manages to convince them to give us a sheet of paper to ‘tick off’ our dim sum choices. This, I’m told, is how it’s meant to be done – with the staff taking one half, and leaving the other on your table to count off the dishes as they arrive.
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At this point I realise it’s a good thing I’m not alone, because I really have no idea what I’m doing. Although there is an English menu provided, there’s also a second specials menu that has absolutely no translation.
The service is also perfunctory at best, or at least it is before they warm up to us. Left to my own devices, my awkward self would’ve probably already upped and left, only to miss out on one of the best meals of my life.
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We reel off our order: steamed chicken feet and beef tripe, a steaming bowl of congee (made with a thousand year old egg), steamed custard and egg yolk buns, roasted pork cheung fun, and Shanghai-style soup dumplings.
‘Have we gone too weird?’ we wonder out loud, before deciding no, not at all. At this point, I’m very much in for a penny, in for a pound.
Meaty congee with thousand year old egg at Mei Dim. / Image: The Manc Eats
Steamed beef tripe with ginger and spring onion at Mei Dim, pictured above egg yolk custard buns. / Image: The Manc Eats
It doesn’t take long before our first dish arrives, a plate of slippery-looking cheung fun – a thin, gelatinous and slightly chewy rice noodle roll filled with pork then drizzled in soy sauce.
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It’s followed, swiftly, by a tower of bamboo baskets, filled with chicken feet, steamed beef tripe with ginger and spring onion, plump steamed custard buns and our steamed soup dumplings – all dumped, rather unceremoniously might I add, on our table.
Once the curtain of steam between us evaporates, we survey the spoils. My nerves about eating feet dispelled, I take some quick instruction on how to remove the skin from the bones with my tongue then get stuck in.
Quickly realising these feet are 99% skin (in my opinion, one of the best parts of the bird) it dawns on me: I’ve finally found a dish where it’s acceptable to only eat chicken skin, without ingesting any actual meat. No wonder so many people rave about this as a comfort food.
Egg yolk custard buns at Mei DIm. / Image: The Manc Eats
Cheung fun with pork at Mei Dim. / Image: The Manc Eats
And as for that thousand-year-old egg? If anything, it’s a misnomer. A couple of weeks, or months old at best, sitting in a mixture of clay, ash, salt, quicklime and rice hulls makes it rich in flavour and adds a hefty dose of umami to a meaty bowl of congee.
Beyond that, the greatest delights of the day have to be the egg yolk custard buns, satisfactorily oozing their hot golden goo at the slightest pressure. When Giggs grins and tells me that he hasn’t had any this good since leaving Hong Kong, I know we’re on to a winner here.
Although Mei Dim has a distinct lack of social media presence, the fact that most of its clientele are Chinese speaks volumes as to the quality. It also has a great word-of-mouth reputation, which is how I stumbled across it in the first place.
That said, it’s not going to be for everyone and there are plenty of keyboard warriors who’ve taken the time to slag this place off. Quite a few scathing TripAdvisor reviews bemoan its old school decor and lack of ‘friendly’ service, but I rather like it. If anything, it makes it feel more authentic.
This is how I remember Chinatown always used to be when growing up, and I think there’s something to be said for a restaurant more interested in what’s coming out of its kitchen than the tables it’s being served on.
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Simply put: if you want to be fawned over, you’re probably best off going elsewhere. But if you want great dim sum, Mei Dim is an absolute must.
Feature image – The Manc Eats
Food & Drink
Gary Neville’s St Michael’s development reveals plans for FOUR new food and drink openings
Daisy Jackson
Gary Neville’s landmark St Michael’s development has revealed a major new food and drink arrival – actually, FOUR new arrivals.
The huge site in the city centre has announced that acclaimed restaurant group Pasture will be opening four different food and drink destinations here, including a new era for the Sir Ralph Abercromby pub.
Pasture will also have a flagship restaurant on the ground floor of the 43-storey St Michael’s tower, operate the W Lounge hotel bar, and breathe new life into the much-loved historic pub that has stood here long before the development began taking shape.
Pasture has partnered with Relentless Developments and Salboy to bring its food and drink offering to the huge city centre scheme.
The group will take over the much-loved historic Abercromby pub, which is being sensitively restored as part of the development, as well as Terrace, an outdoor dining destination serving a Mediterranean-inspired, all-day menu.
Together, the four concepts will bring a varied hospitality offering to St Michael’s, adding to the restaurants and bars already operating at No.1 St Michael’s such as Circolo Popolare and Chotto Matte.
Founded in 2018 by chef-owner Sam Elliott, Pasture began in Bristol and has since expanded into Cardiff and Birmingham, becoming known for its expertly prepared meat, lively atmosphere and commitment to provenance.
St Michael’s will welcome Pasture to ManchesterSt Michael’s new food and drink offering will also feature an outdoor terracePasture is coming to Manchester
Speaking about the announcement, Sam Elliott said: “Manchester is a city with a huge personality, a strong independent spirit and a real passion for great food, so bringing Pasture here is incredibly exciting.
“St Michael’s gives us the opportunity to create something that goes beyond a restaurant, with four distinct destinations that each have their own identity while sharing the same values around quality, provenance and memorable experiences.
“From our signature open-fire cooking at Pasture Manchester and Mediterranean-inspired all-day dining at Terrace, to the atmosphere of W Lounge and the much-loved character of the Abercromby, we’re looking forward to becoming part of the city’s dynamic hospitality scene.”
Gary Neville, director of Relentless Developments, said the restaurant group was exactly the kind of operator the team wanted to attract to St Michael’s.
“When we started St Michael’s, our ambition was to create a destination in the heart of Manchester that genuinely reflects the energy, confidence and character of the city.
“Pasture is exactly the kind of operator we want to attract. Sam and his team have built something special, and bringing four distinct concepts into the scheme will add another layer of quality and personality to what we’re creating here.”
The announcement forms part of the second phase of St Michael’s, which also includes 75,000 sq ft of premium office space, a 162-room W Hotel and 217 W Residences within the 43-storey tower.
No opening dates for the four Pasture venues have been confirmed yet.
Inside Counter, Manchester city centre’s newest restaurant with beef croissants and Vimto trifle
Daisy Jackson
Manchester has a brand-new restaurant right in the city centre, where modern British cooking shines.
Counter comes from acclaimed chef Andrew Sheridan, who just weeks ago launched Arcadian over in Didsbury – and now he’s continuing to put his stamp on Manchester with this newest launch.
Taking a spot in a new building off South King Street, the space itself is dominated by huge elm trees that line the restaurant as a centrepiece, as well as a looming metal face sculpture.
And at the top of it all is an open kitchen where you can watch the chefs at work, creating meat- and fish-forward plates.
Expect stand-out dishes like a flattened croissant topped with beef tartare, loaded flatbreads, and huge sharing dishes like a roasted duck sharing platter, and wagyu ribeye.
There are also not-so-subtle nods to Manchester on the dessert menu, with a Vimto 1908 trifle that’s bringing together Vimto jelly, baked yoghurt, vanilla sponge, blackcurrant, raspberry and custard; plus The Manchester Glory that layers vanilla custard, raspberry, coconut ice cream, banana, toasted coconut, whipped mascarpone and cherry.
The beef tartare croissant and carrot flatbreadA huge duck sharer from Counter restaurant in ManchesterGrilled lamb chops
The new restaurant, which comes from Open Restaurant Group, will officially open its doors on Monday 9 November, with 60 covers.
The best seat in the house is at the chef’s counter, where diners can look directly out onto the pass at the kitchen in action.
And the best section on the menu has to be the grill, with plates like the satay spatchcock chicken, turbot steak, and sides such as gravy fries with beef dripping, and mac and cheese brulee.
Andrew Sheridan, chef and co-founder at Open Restaurant Group, said: “For us, great cooking isn’t about sticking to rules or defining food by where it comes from. It’s about taking the best flavours, textures and ingredients from around the world and bringing them together in ways that surprise people.
“We start with great produce, take inspiration from different food cultures and have fun with it, creating dishes that are bold, playful and full of flavour.
“Manchester is creative, loud and full of character, and we wanted Counter to reflect exactly that. It’s a place where great food meets a sense of occasion, without ever taking itself too seriously.
“Whether you’re joining us for lunch or dinner, we want Counter to feel like a natural part of the city, somewhere you come back to time and time again.”
Georgina Pellant -
20th January 2023 
