There’s no skirting around it. Mondays in hospitality have become a bit dead. They are, in effect, the new Sunday – widely adopted as a day of rest after a busy weekend’s trade, a welcome opportunity to save some money on the quietest day of the week, or both.
That’s not the case at Ornella’s, though. This tiny Tameside pasta kitchen may have only opened just a few months ago but it’s completely overflowing when we visit, chancing our luck with a lunchtime walk-in (not the smartest move on my part, considering it’s a half-hour drive from town).
Having managed to sneak in early and snag the last free table, we wouldn’t recommend that you do the same. We soon overhear eager diners being politely turned away, despite the fact that It’s only ten past twelve. They’re already fully booked.
Image: The Manc Eats
Image: The Manc Eats
We’ve heard great things about this place – and when the food hits the table, we soon see why there’s such a clamour at the door. This unassuming little Denton cafe is, no shadow of a doubt, serving some of the best pasta dishes in Manchester.
Sicilian-born Ornella’s perfectly plump lobster ravioli is the star that draws us in, but it’s a butter-drenched crispy sage and hazelnut spinach ricotta ravioli that has me closing my eyes and murmuring sweet nothings.
Another bowl of carbonara bucatini has a similar effect, its fat ribbons are liberally doused in pepper and egg yolk, with crisp flecks of guanciale on top, all glistening in the sun. I think this might be pasta heaven.
We also order a few slabs of gorgeously fluffy, spongey focaccia as a vehicle to hoover up a creamy pot of hummus, a rich pool of olive oil swimming happily on its surface. Prior to opening her kitchen, Ornella was the head chef for Pollen, and it is clear she picked up a few tricks along the way.
There’s more to shout about here too, not least the satisfyingly smooth pearls of cantaloupe melon that come nestled inside very generous pockets of parma ham. The accompanying rocket, however, I mostly leave untouched.
As for the arancini – my god. Crunchy and crisp on the outside, but not greasy or oily in the slightest, it’s the most perfect specimen I’ve ever had the pleasure to enjoy, a gooey nduja and mozzarella center positively oozing and made even better by an accompanying hot honey dip.
There is pudding, too, in the guise of a classic tiramisu and traditional Sicilian gelato-filled brioche – another example of Ornella’s bread-making talents. They’ve run out of pistachio, and instead, offer vanilla with an added layer of fruit compote, a suggestion we gladly accept.
Unbelievably, my dining partner has already reached her limit after a few scoops of tiramisu so I valiantly soldier on, doing my best two eat two desserts at once. Sometimes this food reviewing lark really puts you to the test, let me tell you. It’s a hard job, but someone’s got to do it.
Inevitably, the last morsels of the soft, buttery brioche bun defeat me – but not before I mop up all the best bits. Simply put, food like this is too good to go to waste. It’s no wonder she’s so busy.
Feature image – The Manc Eats
Food & Drink
The team behind Salford’s beloved Black Friar set to take over popular Chorlton pub
Danny Jones
The talented culinary team behind the stunning Black Friar pub in Salford are set to take over a new site at a historic old pub in Chorlton: the beloved Horse and Jockey.
As one of the longest-standing and most charming spots on Chorlton Green, The Horse and Jockey public house dates all the way back to 1512 and has remained a regular watering hole for native boozers since the 19th century.
Having been operated by legendary local beermasters, Joseph Holt Brewery, from 2012 onwards, it’s remained a popular spot for generations of punters and ‘The Inn of the Green’ is still the go-to for so many of those who live and work nearby.
Nevertheless, The Horse and Jockey is now set to be taken over by the duo who rebooted a fellow site of Manc hospitality heritage are turning their attention to a new gastropub project.
The Horse and Jockey Inn on the Green, Chorlton-cum-Hardy (Credit: Adam Bruderer via Flickr)
Announcing the redevelopment plans at the start of this month, owner Neil Burke and Executive Chef Ben Chaplin is set to oversee the next chapter for the 200-year-old community pub.
The current Black Friar team has been in place for just over four years now and has very quickly turned what used to be a casual working men’s boozer into a lovingly restored English pub and restaurant with a beautiful outdoor terrace and back garden.
Known for classic but elevated pub grub, proper homemade pies, regularly rotating seasonal menus, a carefully curated cocktail and drinks menu, along with the elegant updated interior, it’s come a long way from its rebirth in 2021.
Having proved their revitalising powers with the Grade II-listed building, which had sat derelict for more than a decade and a half, Burke is using his experience and knowledge as a local resident of the central Manchester suburb to bring a new lease of life to The Horse and Jockey.
Formerly a regional manager of the Jamie Oliver Restaurant Group, before teaming up with Chaplin to take on their own challenge, Chorlton Green’s treasured public house has been something he’s dreamed about for some time.
Speaking on the upcoming overhaul, Neil said: “Myself and Ben are champing at the bit to get the Horse and Jockey living up to its full potential. As with the Black Friar, we want to create a pub that heavily focuses on great British produce in a beautiful environment.
Neil and BenThe Black Friar stunned this past springCredit: Supplied/The Manc Eats
“We’re over the moon to be taking on a true suburban gem that’s all about the community. The Horse and Jockey will be a place where everyone is welcome, whether they’re popping in for a pint, having a roast after a leisurely Sunday walk, or throwing a bash to celebrate a milestone.”
Set to reopen following a major revamp this autumn, Joseph Holt will continue to run the cherished Chorlton pub in the interim while the refurbishments are completed.
Those passionate about keeping that authentic, traditional feel will also be glad to hear that original features like the bright white visage, wooden beams will be kept intact and complemented by a stripped-back decor, heritage colours and more cosy furnishings.
Looking to make this a more dining-led venue than just another bar that happens to serve food, they promise all the usual pub grub favourites, premium á la carte dishes, weekly specials and “a fresh take on The Black Friar’s legendary Sunday roasts.”
Better yet, there’ll still be Holt ales to be enjoyed as well as a new dedicated wine list designed specifically to pair with the new foodie lineup.
We can’t wait to see how it turns out, and you keep your eyes peeled HERE for more updates.
Featured Images — Adam Bruderer (via Flickr)/Press shots (supplied)
Food & Drink
Tiny Manchester pub brilliantly condemns ‘alarming rise’ in hate speech
Daisy Jackson
A micropub in Manchester city centre has spoken out about an ‘alarming rise’ in hate speech.
The Victoria Tap, a tiny little boozer at Manchester Victoria train station, strongly condemned any racist, homophobic or sexist conversations taking place in its venue.
The pub said ‘there is absolutely no room for it’ within its walls.
In a statement – which has been met with praise from customers and followers – they added that anyone bringing hate speech to the pub ‘can let the door kick you on the way out’.
The Victoria Tap wrote: “We’ve noticed an alarming rise in racist, homophobic and sexist slurs/comments/conversations lately and we just want to say that there is absolutely no room for it here.
“This is a safe space for everyone.
“If you, or someone in your group, want to disturb this philosophy, you can let the door kick you on the way out.”
The Victoria Tap has brilliantly condemned ‘alarming rise’ in hate speech
Praising their statement, one person wrote: “Great to read this. There is NO place for this. All public spaces should be welcoming.”
Another said: “Pubs should be welcoming environments for people of all walks of life. There’s no room for misogyny, racism or discrimination of any kind. Those who espouse those thoughts need a good hard look in the mirror.”
Someone else commented: “That’s how I see the Vic Tap. Great place for a safe quiet pint. Keep up the great work guys as it’s a fantastic venue.”
The Victoria Tap opened at Manchester Victoria back in 2023, completely transforming a space that was previously a bin store.
As well as its cosy interior, it has a small beer garden which overlooks the tram tracks in and out of the train station.
It’s operated by the same team behind the Piccadilly Tap and the even newer Oxford Tap.
We know exactly where we’ll be heading for our next pint now. Good work, Victoria Tap.
Georgina Pellant -
5th August 2022 
