There’s no skirting around it. Mondays in hospitality have become a bit dead. They are, in effect, the new Sunday – widely adopted as a day of rest after a busy weekend’s trade, a welcome opportunity to save some money on the quietest day of the week, or both.
That’s not the case at Ornella’s, though. This tiny Tameside pasta kitchen may have only opened just a few months ago but it’s completely overflowing when we visit, chancing our luck with a lunchtime walk-in (not the smartest move on my part, considering it’s a half-hour drive from town).
Having managed to sneak in early and snag the last free table, we wouldn’t recommend that you do the same. We soon overhear eager diners being politely turned away, despite the fact that It’s only ten past twelve. They’re already fully booked.
We’ve heard great things about this place – and when the food hits the table, we soon see why there’s such a clamour at the door. This unassuming little Denton cafe is, no shadow of a doubt, serving some of the best pasta dishes in Manchester.
Sicilian-born Ornella’s perfectly plump lobster ravioli is the star that draws us in, but it’s a butter-drenched crispy sage and hazelnut spinach ricotta ravioli that has me closing my eyes and murmuring sweet nothings.
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Another bowl of carbonara bucatini has a similar effect, its fat ribbons are liberally doused in pepper and egg yolk, with crisp flecks of guanciale on top, all glistening in the sun. I think this might be pasta heaven.
We also order a few slabs of gorgeously fluffy, spongey focaccia as a vehicle to hoover up a creamy pot of hummus, a rich pool of olive oil swimming happily on its surface. Prior to opening her kitchen, Ornella was the head chef for Pollen, and it is clear she picked up a few tricks along the way.
There’s more to shout about here too, not least the satisfyingly smooth pearls of cantaloupe melon that come nestled inside very generous pockets of parma ham. The accompanying rocket, however, I mostly leave untouched.
As for the arancini – my god. Crunchy and crisp on the outside, but not greasy or oily in the slightest, it’s the most perfect specimen I’ve ever had the pleasure to enjoy, a gooey nduja and mozzarella center positively oozing and made even better by an accompanying hot honey dip.
There is pudding, too, in the guise of a classic tiramisu and traditional Sicilian gelato-filled brioche – another example of Ornella’s bread-making talents. They’ve run out of pistachio, and instead, offer vanilla with an added layer of fruit compote, a suggestion we gladly accept.
Unbelievably, my dining partner has already reached her limit after a few scoops of tiramisu so I valiantly soldier on, doing my best two eat two desserts at once. Sometimes this food reviewing lark really puts you to the test, let me tell you. It’s a hard job, but someone’s got to do it.
Inevitably, the last morsels of the soft, buttery brioche bun defeat me – but not before I mop up all the best bits. Simply put, food like this is too good to go to waste. It’s no wonder she’s so busy.
Feature image – The Manc Eats
Food & Drink
The Salmon of Knowledge pub is opening a second site in Didsbury
Danny Jones
A recent addition to the Manchester hospitality scene is building on its early success and opening up another Irish bar over in Didsbury.
Northern Quarter’s Salmon of Knowledge, which launched back in September 2024, is one of countless Irish pubs across Greater Manchester but only a handful in the vibrant district.
Having taken over the much-loved old PLY site – which sadly closed its doors last summer – they had a job on their hands to reach the same heights as the legendary late-night pizza and shuffleboard joint, but these first few months have clearly gone well enough to expand.
The increasingly popular watering hole which is one of the few places around here where you can get Murphy’s (at least in the city centre) is much more than just an Irish-themed venue: it delivers regular live music, sports on the box and great food from local brand, The Last Stop – and Didsbury is up next.
The caption goes on to read: “Big news, Didsbury. You called and we answered. The Salmon of Knowledge is swimming upstream to bring our second site to YOU very soon!
“By popular demand, we are expanding to the suburbs, so get ready for live music, great food, live sports, and gallons of Guinness. You heard it here first… stay tuned!”
As well as a wide variety of beverages beyond the obviously stunning stouts, fans will be glad to hear the Salmon will be bringing The Last Stop’s talents with them.
From the aesthetic, prices and drinks selection to the reliable New York influences on the Heaton Chapel-based vendor’s menu, we’ve been pretty big fans of this place since minute one.
Manchester, pay attention: The Salmon of Knowledge has some wisdom to bestow upon you — mainly how to pour a proper Guinness and have a grand auld time. 🇮🇪☘️
Although they are yet to give any more information as to when we can expect The Salmon of Knowledge Didsbury to open at present, we do have an indication of where it will be popping up.
It has now been confirmed that they will be taking over the former Dockyard pub (which still has locations in Salford Quays and Spinningfields), meaning that it will sit in the heart of the busy Didsbury Village strip, which should prove great for footfall.
Just like the Stevenson Square spot, live music and sports will accompany Didsbury’s new Irish bar as well and if the phrase ‘gallons of Guinness’ doesn’t get you excited, we don’t know what will.
New pasta kitchen Soots Pasta opens at Altrincham Market
Daisy Jackson
A little piece of pasta paradise has landed at Altrincham Market and it’s got a secret you won’t believe.
Soots Pasta has taken on a spot in the covered market, where owners and co-founders Ellie Proudfoot and Ruth Duarte are hand-making fresh pasta dishes.
They’ve named this fantastic little kitchen after their cocker spaniel, Soots.
Signature dishes here include a satisfying swirl of thick ravioli, stuffed with ricotta and served on a bed of pumpkin puree and sage butter.
There’s also a vibrant green pesto tagliatelle, laced with basil, lemon and pistachio.
As for small plates, there’s freshly-made focaccia with three different butters, plus crunchy tomato arancini.
Soots Pasta is the first solo venture for Ellie, who used to work as a private chef as well as at restaurants around the region.
Soots Pasta in Altrincham Market. Credit: The Manc GroupSoots Pasta in Altrincham Market. Credit: The Manc Group
She’s taken her background – which includes culinary school in France – to create this modern European menu that takes inspiration from Italy.
What’s not immediately obvious, on reading the menu or eating it, is that everything on the Soots Pasta menu is entirely vegan – and they have gluten-free pasta available on request.
The pair hope that Altrincham Market will be a launchpad to them eventually opening their first restaurant, as it’s done for so many businesses that came before it.
Soots Pasta is on Pott Street in the covered market, and is open Tuesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from 14 January.